SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING ANHYDROUS SPHEROIDS DISPERSED IN A SOLID CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE
20220079847 · 2022-03-17
Inventors
- Armelle MASANELLI (Tigy, FR)
- Marlène PARCOLLET (Saint Jean de Braye, FR)
- Valérie DE LA POTERIE (LAILLY EN VAL, FR)
Cpc classification
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/02
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/412
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in a solid aqueous continuous phase. The invention is also directed toward a process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, and also a process for making up and/or caring for bodily and/or facial skin using a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention. The invention is also directed toward a stick or a solid gel cast in a dish or a pot, and more particularly a lipstick, a foundation, and an antisun stick, comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
Claims
1. A solid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises: anhydrous spheroids comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil and at least one lipophilic structuring agent, said spheroids being dispersed in a solid aqueous continuous phase comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and water.
2. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the spheroids have a diameter of from 0.05 to 10.0 mm.
3. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the spheroids are free of any outer coating.
4. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the spheroids have a dropping point of greater than 50° C., preferably ranging from 55 to 100° C. and more preferentially ranging from 60 to 80° C.
5. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the aqueous continuous phase has a hardness defined by a compression strength of greater than or equal to 50 g at 20° C., after penetration of a cylindrical spindle 5 mm in diameter into said phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.Math.s.sup.−1.
6. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 5, in which the anhydrous spheroids and the aqueous continuous phase are immiscible at a temperature of greater than or equal to 40° C.
7. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it is free of surfactant.
8. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the lipophilic structuring agent is chosen from waxes, butters, pasty fatty compounds and/or lipophilic gelling agents, and preferably lipophilic gelling agents.
9. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 8, in which the waxes are chosen from natural waxes, hydrocarbon-based waxes, fatty alcohol waxes comprising from 20 to 60 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon waxes comprising from 18 to 60 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
10. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 8 or claim 9, in which the butters are chosen from C10-18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) including at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Karité nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii) butter, galam (Butyrospermum parkii) butter, Borneo butter or grease or tengkawang (Shorea stenoptera) tallow, shorea butter, illipé butter, madhuca or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah (Madhuca latifolia) butter, katiau (Madhuca mottleyana) butter, phulwara (M. butyracea) butter, mango (Mangifera indica) butter, murumuru (Astrocatyum murumuru) butter, kokum (Garcinia indica) butter, ucuuba (Virola sebifera) butter, tucuma butter, painya (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea) butter, coffee (Coffea arabica) butter, apricot (Prunus armeniaca) butter, macadamia (Macadamia temifolia) butter, grape (Vitis vinifera) seed butter, avocado (Persea gratissima) butter, olive (Olea europaea) butter, sweet almond (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) butter, cocoa (Theobroma cacao) butter, sunflower butter, the butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum murumuru Seed Butter, the butter under the INCI name Theobroma grandiflorum Seed Butter, the butter under the INCI name Irvingia gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of hydrogenated jojoba wax and oil) (INCI name: Jojoba Esters), ethyl esters of shea butter (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.
11. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 8, in which the pasty fatty compounds are chosen from the group consisting of lanolin and derivatives thereof, such as C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, polymeric silicone compounds, copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group, homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymer and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, diglycerol esters, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a polyol, the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid such as a monoisostearate, diisostearate or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 OE) oxypropylenated (5 OP) pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof.
12. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 8, in which the lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from silicas, clays, optionally modified hectorites, dextrin esters, polyamides or silicone polyamides, L-glutamic acid or aspartic acid amides, hydroxystearic acid, hydrocarbon-based block copolymers comprising at least one styrene unit, and preferably dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, polyamide-8 resin, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate, polymers based on castor oil and caprylic/capric triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
13. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the hydrophilic gelling agents are chosen from natural or synthetic polysaccharides, preferably agar-agar, gellan gum, xanthan gum, carrageenans, cellulose and derivatives thereof such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, corn starch, cellulose carboxymethyl ethers, copolymers based on bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from natural polysaccharides such as agar-agar, gellan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
14. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the anhydrous spheroids and/or the aqueous continuous phase comprise at least one pigment and/or one nacre, and preferably at least one organic or inorganic pigment.
15. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the anhydrous spheroids and/or the aqueous continuous phase, and preferably the spheroids, comprise at least one UV-screening agent.
16. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 15, in which the UV-screening agent is chosen from benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, polysilicone-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium oxide or zinc oxide pigments, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, a nanotitanium or nanozinc dispersion, and mixtures thereof.
17. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the spheroids and/or the aqueous continuous phase, and preferably the spheroids, comprise at least one fragrance.
18. The solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the spheroids represent from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, and even more preferentially from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic composition.
19. A process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a—preparation of a liquid aqueous continuous-phase composition by mixing, with stirring, preferably at a temperature ranging from 50 to 110° C., at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in water, b—preparation of a liquid spheroid composition by mixing, with stirring, preferably at a temperature ranging from 50 to 110° C., at least one lipophilic structuring agent in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil, c—slow injection, in the form of droplets, of the liquid spheroid composition obtained on conclusion of step b— in a mixer, which is preferably T- or cross-shaped, in which the liquid aqueous continuous-phase composition obtained on conclusion of step a— circulates continuously, d—at the mixer outlet, recovery of the composition obtained on conclusion of step c— comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed and in suspension in the aqueous continuous phase, and e—cooling to room temperature of the composition obtained on conclusion of step d—, to obtain a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
20. The use of a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, for making up and/or caring for bodily and/or facial skin, and notably the lips.
21. A stick, characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
22. A solid gel cast in a dish or a pot, characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
23. A lipstick, characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
24. A foundation, characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
25. An antisun stick, characterized in that it comprises a solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1.
26. A process for making up and/or caring for bodily and/or facial skin, and notably the lips, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: a′—uptake of an amount of solid cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, in an amount necessary to make at least one application, and b′—application of the solid cosmetic composition taken up during step a′— to the bodily and/or facial skin, and notably the lips.
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1
Lipstick According to the Invention
[0107] A spheroid composition (composition A) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 1 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Beeswax Super Refined Beeswax 8.0 (Croda Health Care) Beeswax Cerabeil Blanchie DAB 1.5 (Baerlocher) Stearyl heptanoate - PCL Solid (Symrise) 15.0 stearyl caprylate Rice wax Rice Wax No. 1 5.0 (SACI-CFPA) C.sub.10-30 cholesterol/ Super Sterol Ester ™ 3.0 lanosterol esters (Croda) Mixture of propylene Bentone Gel ® CAO V 5.0 carbonate, stearalkonium (SACI-CFPA) hectorite and castor oil Diisostearyl malate Salacos 222 (SACI- 8.0 CFPA) Castor oil Castor oil Codex 8.0 Caprylic/capric/succinic Miglyol ® 829 MB 4.0 triglyceride (IMCD France) 2,6,10,15,19,23- Vegetable squalane 10.0 Hexamethyltetraconsane Fillers 12.0 Pigment 19.5 Antioxidant 0.2 Fragrancing concentrate 0.8 TOTAL 100.0
[0108] All the ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85° C.
[0109] Measurement of the Dropping Point of the Anhydrous Spheroids:
[0110] Measurement of the dropping point was performed using a Mettler Toledo DP 70 Dropping Point System machine, according to the standard ASTM-D 3954. The spheroid composition was heated to the point of total melting of all the ingredients, and then poured into a goblet with a hole 2.8 mm in diameter pierced in the bottom. This goblet was placed for 24 hours at a temperature of 20° C. before measuring the dropping point. The goblet was then placed in an oven with a heating rate of 1° C. per minute. The temperature at which the first drop passed through the hole in the goblet was noted as being the dropping point.
[0111] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 63.1° C.
[0112] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 2 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Water 87.5 Vegetable glycerol (Cremer) 10.0 Agar-agar Ina agar CS 83 (Iwase Cosfa) 1.4 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG LAXT (Azelis) 0.2 Gellan gum Kelcogel ® CG-LA (Azelis) 0.2 Preserving agent 0.7 TOTAL 100.0
[0113] The water and the vegetable glycerol were first heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 85° C. The hydrophilic gelling agents were then added to the aqueous mixture. After homogenization of the mixture, a solid gel was obtained.
[0114] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B′) corresponding to the same formula as that presented in Table 2 above, but free of vegetable glycerol, was prepared. The vegetable glycerol was replaced with water.
[0115] Characterization of the Solid Aqueous Continuous Phase:
[0116] The solid aqueous continuous phase was characterized by measuring the hardness, by visual observation, and by evaluation of the sensory qualities.
[0117] To do this, the water and the preserving agent were mixed at a temperature of 85° C., with stirring, the hydrophilic gelling agents were then added, and the whole was mixed with stirring at 85° C. for 15 minutes. The mixture obtained was poured into a 15 mL pill bottle and into a stick 1 cm in diameter.
[0118] Measurement of the Hardness:
[0119] A 15 mL pill bottle was left at room temperature for 24 hours and then placed in an oven at 20° C. for 24 hours.
[0120] The hardness measurements were performed using a texturometer (TA-XTPLUS texture analyzer, Stable Microsystems) according to the following parameters: [0121] penetration speed: 1 mm.Math.s.sup.−1, [0122] cylindrical spindle used: cylinder 5 mm in diameter, [0123] penetration depth: 10 mm.
[0124] Three pill bottles were prepared for the anhydrous continuous phase and three measurements were taken per pill bottle, i.e. nine measurements in total for the anhydrous continuous phase.
[0125] The aqueous continuous phase of composition B has a mean compression strength equal to 100.5 g after penetration of a cylindrical spindle 5 mm in diameter into said anhydrous continuous phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.Math.s.sup.−1, the measurement being performed at 20° C. It is thus considered as being “solid” for the purposes of the invention.
[0126] The aqueous continuous phase of composition B′ has a mean compression strength equal to 114.9 g after penetration of a cylindrical spindle 5 mm in diameter into said anhydrous continuous phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.Math.s.sup.−1, the measurement being performed at 20° C. It is thus considered as being “solid” for the purposes of the invention.
[0127] Visual Observation of the Sticks of Composition B and B′:
[0128] The sticks 1 cm in diameter were left at room temperature for 24 hours.
[0129] The sticks were then opened over a length of 2.5 cm, and then held horizontally for a time of 1 minute. The curvature of the sticks in the horizontal position was observed: they have a curvature in the continuity of the mechanism of the sticks in the horizontal position, which confirms their “solid” nature for the purposes of the invention.
[0130] Evaluation of the Sensory Qualities of the Aqueous Continuous Phases B and B′:
[0131] After 24 hours at room temperature, the sticks offer a feeling of freshness, wear down perfectly and have good cohesion during spreading (do not break during application).
[0132] Preparation of the Lipstick According to the Invention:
[0133] The homogeneous, fluid mixture of composition A was injected in the form of droplets into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase of composition B circulates continuously in the liquid state, heated to a temperature of 85° C.
[0134] Characteristics of the Process: [0135] Flow rate of composition A: 1 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0136] Flow rate of composition B: 5 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0137] Composition A/composition B weight ratio: 30/70, [0138] Droplet diameter: 1.8 mm.
[0139] The composition obtained consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and of the anhydrous spheroids of composition B was poured, directly on exiting the process, into a packaging stick. The stick was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0140] A lipstick comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase was obtained. This product combines a freshness effect and very good persistence of the color on the lips.
Example 2
Antisun Stick According to the Invention
[0141] A spheroid composition (composition A) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 3 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)meth- Tinosorb ® S 5.4 oxyphenyltriazine (BASF) Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl Uvinul ® A Plus 5.4 hexyl benzoate Granular (BASF) Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-3 6.0 (3V Sigma) 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxy- Octyl 13.0 phenyl)-2-propenoate and methoxycinnamate butylhydroxytoluene (Ashland) Homosalate Parsol ® HMS 10.0 (DSM) Octocrylene Eusolex ® OCR 10.0 (Merck KGaA) Ethylhexyl salicylate Escalol ™ 587 10.0 (Ashland) Stearyl heptanoate - stearyl PCL Solid (Symrise) 3.0 caprylate Rice wax Rice Wax No. 1 10.0 (SACI-CFPA) Olive oil ester Phytowax ® Olive 10.0 18L 57 (Sophim) Butanedioic acid hydroxy, Salacos 222 (SACI- 17.2 bis(16-methyl-heptadecyl) CFPA) ester TOTAL 100.0
[0142] All the ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85° C.
[0143] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 61.3° C.
[0144] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 4 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Water 87.5 Vegetable glycerol (Cremer) 10.0 Agar-agar Ina agar CS 83 (Iwase Cosfa) 1.4 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG LAXT (Azelis) 0.2 Gellan gum Kelcogel ® CG-LA (Azelis) 0.2 Preserving agent 0.7 TOTAL 100.0
[0145] The water and the vegetable glycerol were first heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 85° C. The hydrophilic gelling agents were then added to the aqueous mixture. After homogenization of the mixture, a solid gel was obtained.
[0146] The homogeneous, fluid mixture of composition A was injected in the form of droplets into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase of composition B circulates continuously in the liquid state, heated to a temperature of 85° C.
[0147] Characteristics of the Process: [0148] Flow rate of composition A: 2 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0149] Flow rate of composition B: 20 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0150] Composition A/composition B weight ratio: 40/60, [0151] Droplet diameter: 1 mm.
[0152] The composition obtained consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and of the anhydrous spheroids of composition B was poured, directly on exiting the process, into a packaging stick. The stick was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0153] An antisun stick comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase was obtained. This product combines a freshness effect and very good UV protection.
Example 3
Antisun Stick According to the Invention
[0154] A spheroid composition (composition A) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 5 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)meth- Tinosorb ® S 5.0 oxyphenyltriazine (BASF) Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl Uvinul ® A Plus 5.0 hexyl benzoate Granular (BASF) Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-3 6.0 (3V Sigma) 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxy- Octyl 13.0 phenyl)-2-propenoate and methoxycinnamate butylhydroxytoluene (Ashland) Homosalate Parsol ® HMS 10.0 (DSM) Octocrylene Eusolex ® OCR 6.0 (Merck KGaA) Ethylhexyl salicylate Escalol ™ 587 10.0 (Ashland) Dispersion of titanium dioxide CAQP55M160L (Kobo) 21.0 Olive oil ester Phytowax ® Olive 4.0 12L 44 (Sophim) Olive oil ester Phytowax ® Olive 10.0 18L 57 (Sophim) Octyldodecanol, dibutyl lauroyl AJK-OD2046 2.0 glutamide and dibutyl ethyl- (Ajinomoto Health hexanoyl glutamide & Nutrition) Fillers 8.0 TOTAL 100.0
[0155] All the ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85° C.
[0156] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 66.1° C.
[0157] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 6 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Water 87.5 Vegetable glycerol (Cremer) 10.0 Agar-agar Ina agar CS 83 (Iwase Cosfa) 1.4 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG LAXT (Azelis) 0.2 Gellan gum Kelcogel ® CG-LA (Azelis) 0.2 Preserving agent 0.7 TOTAL 100.0
[0158] The water and the vegetable glycerol were first heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 85° C. The hydrophilic gelling agents were then added to the aqueous mixture. After homogenization of the mixture, a solid gel was obtained.
[0159] The homogeneous, fluid mixture of composition A was injected in the form of droplets into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase of composition B circulates continuously in the liquid state, heated to a temperature of 85° C.
[0160] Characteristics of the Process: [0161] Flow rate of composition A: 2 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0162] Flow rate of composition B: 12 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0163] Composition A/composition B weight ratio: 30/70, [0164] Droplet diameter: 2.5 mm.
[0165] The composition obtained consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and of the anhydrous spheroids of composition B was poured, directly on exiting the process, into a packaging stick. The stick was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0166] An antisun stick comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase was obtained. This product combines a freshness effect and good UV protection.
Example 4
Aqueous Care Stick According to the Invention
[0167] A spheroid composition (composition A) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 7 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)meth- Tinosorb ® S 4.0 oxyphenyltriazine (BASF) Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-3 4.0 (3V Sigma) 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxy- Octyl 13.0 phenyl)-2-propenoate and butyl- methoxycinnamate hydroxytoluene (Ashland) Homosalate Parsol ® HMS 6.0 (DSM) Octocrylene Eusolex ® OCR 10.0 (Merck KGaA) Ethylhexyl salicylate Escalol ™ 587 10.0 (Ashland) Zinc oxide, C.sub.12-15 alkyl benzoate Solaveil ™ CZ- 15.6 and polyhydroxystearic acid and 100-LQ ADD01 isostearic acid (Croda Inc) C.sub.12-15 alkyl benzoate, titanium Solaveil ™ CT- 22.0 dioxide, aluminum stearate, 100-LQ ADD02 polyhydroxystearic acid (Croda Inc) and aluminum oxide Rice wax Rice Wax No. 1 3.4 (SACI-CFPA) Beeswax Cerabeil Blanchie 3.0 DAB (Baerlocher) Nacres 5.0 Bleaching active agents 4.0 TOTAL 100.0
[0168] All the ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85° C.
[0169] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 61.6° C.
[0170] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 8 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 8 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Water 87.5 Vegetable glycerol (Cremer) 10.0 Agar-agar Ina agar CS 83 (Iwase Cosfa) 1.4 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG LAXT (Azelis) 0.2 Gellan gum Kelcogel ® CG-LA (Azelis) 0.2 Preserving agent 0.7 TOTAL 100.0
[0171] The water and the vegetable glycerol were first heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 85° C. The hydrophilic gelling agents were then added to the aqueous mixture. After homogenization of the mixture, a solid gel was obtained.
[0172] The homogeneous, fluid mixture of composition A was injected in the form of droplets into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase of composition B circulates continuously in the liquid state, heated to a temperature of 85° C.
[0173] Characteristics of the Process: [0174] Flow rate of composition A: 1.5 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0175] Flow rate of composition B: 10 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0176] Composition A/composition B weight ratio: 30/70, [0177] Droplet diameter: 2.1 mm.
[0178] The composition obtained consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and of the anhydrous spheroids of composition B was poured, directly on exiting the process, into a packaging stick. The stick was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0179] A stick comprising anhydrous care spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase was obtained. This product combines a bleaching effect and a freshness effect.
Example 5
Fragrance Composition in Stick Form According to the Invention
[0180] A spheroid composition (composition A) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 9 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 9 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Rice wax Rice Wax No. 1 (SACI- 5.0 CFPA) Dimethicone and trimethyl Dow Corning ® 593 Fluid 10.0 siloxysilicate (Univar) Ethylhexyl palmitate 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate MB 11.5 Triethylhexanoin Crodamol ™ GTEH-LQ 7.0 (Croda Perconal Care) Propylene glycol Miglyol ® 840 MB (IMCD 20.0 dicaprylate/dicaprate France) Fillers 26.5 Fragrance concentrate 20.0 TOTAL 100.0
[0181] All the ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85° C.
[0182] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 75° C.
[0183] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 10 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 10 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Water 87.5 Vegetable glycerol (Cremer) 10.0 Agar-agar Ina agar CS 83 (Iwase Cosfa) 1.4 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG LAXT (Azelis) 0.2 Gellan gum Kelcogel ® CG-LA (Azelis) 0.2 Preserving agent 0.7 TOTAL 100.0
[0184] The water and the vegetable glycerol were first heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 85° C. The hydrophilic gelling agents were then added to the aqueous mixture. After homogenization of the mixture, a solid gel was obtained.
[0185] The homogeneous, fluid mixture of composition A was injected in the form of droplets into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase of composition B circulates continuously in the liquid state, heated to a temperature of 85° C.
[0186] Characteristics of the Process: [0187] Flow rate of composition A: 3 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0188] Flow rate of composition B: 11.2 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0189] Composition A/composition B weight ratio: 30/70, [0190] Droplet diameter: 2.8 mm.
[0191] The composition obtained consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and of the anhydrous spheroids of composition B was poured, directly on exiting the process, into a packaging stick. The stick was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0192] A stick comprising fragranced anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase was obtained. This product combines a freshness effect and a pleasant fragrance odor.
Example 6
Antisun Composition in a Dish According to the Invention
[0193] A spheroid composition (composition A) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 11 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 11 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)meth- Tinosorb S 5.4 oxyphenyltriazine (BASF) Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl Uvinul A Plus 5.4 hexyl benzoate Granular (BASF) Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-3 6.0 2-Ethylhexyl 3-(4-methoxy- Octyl 13.0 phenyl)-2-propenoate and methoxycinnamate butylhydroxytoluene (Ashland) Homosalate Parsol HMS (DSM) 10.0 Octocrylene Eusolex OCR 10.0 (Merck) Ethylhexyl salicylate Escalal 587 10.0 (Ashland) Stearyl heptanoate - stearyl PCL Solid 3.0 caprylate (Symrise) Rice wax Rice Wax No. 1 10.0 (SACI-CFPA) Olive oil ester Phytowax Olive 10.0 18L 57 (Sophim) Butanedioic acid hydroxy, Salacas 222 17.2 bis(16-methylheptadecyl) (SACI-CFPA) ester TOTAL 100.0
[0194] All the ingredients of composition A were heated, mixed and homogenized at a temperature of 85° C.
[0195] The dropping point of the anhydrous spheroid composition A is equal to 61.3° C.
[0196] An aqueous continuous-phase composition (composition B) corresponding to the formula presented in Table 12 below was prepared.
TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 12 Chemical name Commercial name % by weight Water 87.5 Vegetable glycerol (Cremer) 10.0 Agar-agar Ina agar CS 83 (Iwase Cosfa) 1.4 Xanthan gum Rhodicare T (SACI-CFPA) 0.2 Gellan gum Kelcogel ® CG-LA (Azelis) 0.2 Preserving agent 0.7 TOTAL 100.0
[0197] The water and the vegetable glycerol were first heated, with stirring, to a temperature of 85° C. The hydrophilic gelling agents were then added to the aqueous mixture. After homogenization of the mixture, a solid gel was obtained.
[0198] The homogeneous, fluid mixture of composition A was injected in the form of droplets into a T-shaped mixer in which the aqueous continuous phase of composition B circulates continuously in the liquid state, heated to a temperature of 85° C.
[0199] Characteristics of the Process: [0200] Flow rate of composition A: 1 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0201] Flow rate of composition B: 20 mL.Math.min.sup.−1, [0202] Composition A/composition B weight ratio: 35/65, [0203] Droplet diameter: 1.3 mm.
[0204] The composition obtained consisting of the aqueous continuous composition of composition A and of the anhydrous spheroids of composition B was poured, directly on exiting the process, into a dish. The dish was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0205] A dish comprising anhydrous spheroids dispersed in an aqueous continuous phase was obtained. Once cooled, the product can be taken up using a sponge or by finger. This product combines a freshness effect and good UV protection.
Example 7
Comparative Example
[0206] A solid cosmetic composition according to the invention prepared according to the same process as that described previously in Example 1 was compared with a cosmetic composition of the same formula prepared according to a different process in which the liquid composition of anhydrous spheroids and the aqueous continuous phase were intimately mixed, without formation of anhydrous spheroids dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase.
[0207] The comparative composition was prepared by mixing, with vigorous stirring, the liquid composition of anhydrous spheroids (composition A) and the aqueous continuous phase (composition B) at a temperature of 85° C. A macroscopically homogeneous composition was obtained, and then poured into a packaging stick. The stick was then placed at room temperature for solidification.
[0208] The sensation of freshness of the cosmetic composition was then evaluated by five different panel members. Each panel member evaluated the sensation of freshness of the composition during application to the lips, noting its sensory quality from 1 to 9, 1 corresponding to a total absence of freshness and 9 to a very fresh effect.
[0209] The results of the evaluation of the sensory quality are presented in Table 13 below:
TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 13 Evaluation of the freshness Mean Composition of the invention 7 7 8 8 9 7.8 (spheroids dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase) Comparative composition 2 2 3 1 3 2.2 (mixture)
[0210] It emerges from the above results that the cosmetic composition of the invention affords a much more pronounced sensation of freshness during its application to the lips than the comparative cosmetic composition. The composition of the invention moreover wears down more homogeneously than that of the comparative composition.
Example 8
Comparative Example
[0211] An aqueous continuous-phase composition was prepared according to the same procedure as that described in Example 1. The composition of the aqueous continuous phase corresponds to the same formula as that presented in Table 2 of Example 1, except that the 1.8% by weight of agar-agar, of xanthan gum and of gellan gum were replaced with 1.8% by weight of neutralized Carbopol Ultrez 10 (INCI name: Carbomer) (GATTEFOSSE). The mixture obtained was poured into a 15 mL pill bottle and into a stick 1 cm in diameter.
[0212] Measurement of the Hardness of the Stick:
[0213] According to the same method as that described in Example 1, the hardness (mean in g) of the stick obtained is 6 g.
[0214] This aqueous continuous phase is thus not considered as being “solid” for the purposes of the invention, since its compression strength is less than 50 g at 20° C., after penetration of a cylindrical spindle 5 mm in diameter into said aqueous continuous phase to a depth of 10 mm at a speed of 1 mm.Math.s.sup.−1.
[0215] Visual Observation of the Stick:
[0216] According to the same method as that described in Example 1, the stick 1 cm in diameter was left at room temperature for 24 hours, opened over a length of 2.5 cm and then held horizontally for a time of 1 minute. The stick obtained is a liquid gel which does not hold together and flows under its own weight in the horizontal position. A photograph of the stick obtained is shown in
Example 9
Comparative Example
[0217] Two anhydrous spheroid compositions (compositions C and D), corresponding to the spheroids of patent application FR 2 649 608, were prepared. These spheroids have a melting point of 36-38° C. A pigment was added to promote the visualization of these spheroids.
[0218] Compositions C and D are as Follows:
TABLE-US-00014 TABLE 14 Composition C: Chemical name Commercial name (supplier) % by weight Semisynthetic Lipocire A pellets (Gattefosse) 99.0 triglycerides Castor oil 0.8 Pigment 0.2
TABLE-US-00015 TABLE 15 Composition D: Chemical name Commercial name (supplier) % by weight Olive oil ester Phytowax Olive 10L 40 (Sophim) 99.0 Castor oil 0.8 Pigment 0.2
[0219] The spheroids of compositions C and D were prepared according to the following process: [0220] The ingredients were heated, mixed and homogenized at 50° C. [0221] Once the mixture was homogeneous, it was dispersed slowly into an aqueous phase heated to the same temperature. Stirring was continued until droplets were obtained. [0222] The mixture was then cooled abruptly by adding an aqueous phase cooled to 0° C. The stirring was stopped to avoid damaging the solidified spheroids. [0223] The spheroids were then filtered, and then dried at room temperature.
[0224] Characterization of the Spheroids Obtained:
[0225] The anhydrous spheroids of compositions C and D obtained were characterized according to the tests described above. The results are collated in Table 16 below.
TABLE-US-00016 TABLE 16 Melting Mean diameter Appearance point of the spheroids of the (° C.) (mm) spheroids Stability Composition A 37.7 1.7 Spherical Poor spheroids Composition B 42.5 1.9 Sticks Poor
[0226] The spheroids of compositions C and D have a melting point of less than 50° C., and are not stable over time, unlike the spheroids of the invention. Moreover, the spheroids obtained are not regular and have elongated (not spherical) shapes, which are not reproducible. In addition, the handling of the spheroids during their incorporation into an aqueous continuous phase is very difficult: the spheroids lose their shape and melt when they are introduced into the hot aqueous continuous phase, which makes it impossible to incorporate them into an aqueous continuous phase.