METHOD FOR IMPROVING THE SENSORIAL PROPERTIES OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS

Abstract

Disclosed is a method for improving the sensorial and/or aesthetic properties of an oil-in-water type emulsion for topical application, the method including an effective quantity of a mixture of saturated cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbons of which at least 95% by weight have between fifteen and nineteen carbon atoms.

Claims

1. A method for improving the sensory and/or aesthetic properties of an oil-in-water type emulsion for topical use, said sensory properties being the spreading properties and the consistency and richness properties of said emulsion for topical use, the method comprising incorporating into said emulsion an effective amount of a mixture of saturated hydrocarbons that are cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, among which at least 95% by weight comprise from fifteen to nineteen carbon atoms.

2. The method as defined in claim 1 wherein 100% by weight of said saturated hydrocarbons that are cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, comprise from fifteen to nineteen carbon atoms.

3. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons comprises, for 100% of its weight: 80-100 wt % of branched alkanes, 0-15 wt % of lineal alkanes, and 0-5 wt % of cycloalkanes, and wherein up to 5% by weight of said cyclic or acyclic, linear or saturated branched hydrocarbons comprise less than fifteen or more than nineteen carbon atoms.

4. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons comprises, for 100% of its weight: 40-100 wt % of branched alkanes, 0-20 wt % of lineal alkanes, and 0-40 wt % of cycloalkanes.

5. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons comprises, for 100% of its weight: 50-100 wt % of branched alkanes, 15-20 wt % of lineal alkanes, and 0-35 wt % of cycloalkanes.

6. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein said mixture of saturated hydrocarbons comprises, for 100% of its weight: 90-100 wt % of branched alkanes, 0-10 wt % of lineal alkanes, and 0-10 wt % of cycloalkanes.

7. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the shininess of said emulsion for topical use.

8. The method as defined in claim 2, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the shininess of said emulsion for topical use.

9. The method as defined in claim 3, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the shininess of said emulsion for topical use.

10. The method as defined in claim 4, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the shininess of said emulsion for topical use.

11. The method as defined in claim 5, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the shininess of said emulsion for topical use.

12. The method as defined in claim 6, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the shininess of said emulsion for topical use.

13. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the matt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of said emulsion for topical use.

14. The method as defined in claim 2, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the matt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of said emulsion for topical use.

15. The method as defined in claim 3, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the matt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of said emulsion for topical use.

16. The method as defined in claim 4, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the matt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of said emulsion for topical use.

17. The method as defined in claim 5, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the matt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of said emulsion for topical use.

18. The method as defined in claim 6, wherein the method improves an aesthetic property of the oil-in-water type emulsion and the improved aesthetic quality is the matt appearance of the skin noted after the application to the skin of said emulsion for topical use.

Description

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0140] The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it.

Preparation of Oil-In-Water Emulsions According to the Invention, Comprising a Mixture (M.sub.1), and of Comparative Oil-In-Water Emulsions Four oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention, denoted (E.sub.1) to (E.sub.4), the weight proportions of the constituents of which are indicated in table 1, and five comparative oil-in-water emulsions denoted (F.sub.1) to (F.sub.5), the weight proportions of the constituents of which are indicated in table 2 below, are prepared. The common preparation process for the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention and for the comparative oil-in-water emulsions is as follows: [0141] the oily mixture to be tested is poured into a beaker, at a temperature of 20° C., then where appropriate an optional second oil is gradually dispersed with mechanical stirring at 80 rpm; [0142] the required amount of the Sepinov™EMT 10 thickener is then added thereto with mechanical stirring at 80 rpm and at 20° C.; [0143] the aqueous phase comprising the water and the Oramix™NS10 are prepared by mixing in a beaker, at a temperature of 20° C.; [0144] the mixture then obtained is cooled with stirring of deflocculator type at 1500 revolutions per minute for 20 minutes, then emptied out so as to obtain the desired oil-in-water emulsion.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Emulsion (E.sub.1) (E.sub.2) (E.sub.3) (E.sub.4) Fatty phase Sepinov ™EMT10.sup.(1) 2% 2% 2% 2% Emosmart ™L19.sup.(2) 15%  0% 12%  3% Emogreen ™L15.sup.(3) 0% 15%  3% 12%  Aqueous phase Water qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  Oramix ™NS 10.sup.(4) 0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup. 
(1) (Sepinov™EMT10): Thickener (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyldimethyltaurate acrylate copolymer),
(2) (Emosmart™L19): Mixture of saturated cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched hydrocarbons comprising, for 100% of its weight:

[0145] i) 13.20% by weight of linear alkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0146] ii) 55.00% by weight of isoalkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0147] iii) 31.80% of cycloalkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms;

(3) (Emogreen™L15): Composition comprising, for 100% of its weight:

[0148] i) 3.7% of linear alkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0149] ii) 96% of isoalkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0150] iii) 0.3% of cycloalkanes comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms;

(4) (Oramix™NS10): solubilizing foaming agent (INCI name: capryloyl/capryl glucoside).

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Emulsion (F.sub.1) (F.sub.2) (F.sub.3) (F.sub.4) (F.sub.5) Fatty phase Sepinov ™EMT10 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% Isohexadecane 15%  0% 0% 0% 0% DC 345.sup.(5) 0% 15%  0% 0% 0% DC 245.sup.(6) 0% 0% 15%  0% 0% Emosmart ™L15.sup.(7) 0% 0% 0% 15%  0% Emosmart ™V21.sup.(8) 0% 0% 0% 0% 15%  Aqueous phase Water qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  qs 100%  .sup.  Oramix ™NS10 0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup.  0.3%.sup. 
(5) (DC 345): Emollient used in cosmetics for the sensory properties that it provides and more particularly the ease of spreading that it confers on the emulsion containing it (INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane & cyclohexasiloxane);
(6) (DC 245): Emollient used in cosmetics for the sensory properties that it provides and more particularly the ease of spreading that it confers on the emulsion containing it (INCI name: cyclopentasiloxane);
(7) (Emosmart™L15): Mixture comprising, for 100% of its weight:

[0151] i) 9.26% by weight of linear alkanes comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms,

[0152] ii) 39.06% by weight of isoalkanes comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms,

[0153] iii) 51.68% of cycloalkanes comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

(8) (Emosmart™V21): Mixture comprising, for 100% of its weight:

[0154] i) 15.99% by weight of linear alkanes comprising from 18 to 21 carbon atoms,

[0155] ii) 59.90% by weight of isoalkanes comprising from 18 to 21 carbon atoms,

[0156] iii) 24.11% of cycloalkanes comprising from 18 to 21 carbon atoms.

Evaluation of the Spreading Properties of an Oil-In-Water Emulsion According to the Invention and of Comparative Oil-In-Water Emulsions

[0157] Principle of the Method

[0158] The spreading properties of an oil-in-water emulsion are evaluated by the variation in a mean of measurements of the value of the coefficient of friction of said emulsion, carried out using a rheometer of type DHR2 (from the company Texas Instruments), for various spreading speeds.

[0159] Principle of the Measurement

[0160] It involves characterizing each emulsion tested for a mean value of 3 measured values of the coefficient of friction, in normal force, for a velocity of 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and of 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1, then calculating the percentage change for the mean obtained at each of the two speeds.

[0161] Material and Equipment

[0162] The measurements are carried out by means of a DHR2 rheometer (TA Instruments) equipped with the “Tribo Ring on Plate” accessory on which is placed a surface of plexiglass onto which the emulsion to be tested is deposited.

[0163] Procedure [0164] An amount of the emulsion to be tested is deposited, using a calibrated spreader, such that it forms a thickness of 90 micrometers on the plate. [0165] After deposition of the sample, its calibrated thickness is brought into contact with the “Tribo Ring on Plate” geometry, and a normal force of 2 N and a fixed velocity gradient that can be adjusted to a value of between 0.01 and 15 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 are applied. [0166] The maximum normal force of friction to which the Peltier plate is subjected during the rotation of the geometry is measured.

[0167] Expression of the Results

[0168] For each emulsion tested, and for each performed measurement of the value of the maximum normal force of friction, the coefficient of friction (Cf) is calculated as follows:

Cf=(value maximum normal force of friction)/(value normal force applied)

[0169] For each emulsion tested, the values obtained during 3 statistically significant measurements, for a fixed velocity at 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and for a fixed velocity at 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1, are taken into consideration, and for each of the emulsions tested, the mean value of the values of the coefficients of friction thus experimentally obtained, denoted Cf.sub.m1 for a fixed velocity at 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and Cf.sub.m4 for a fixed velocity at 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1, are calculated.

[0170] The variation (denoted ΔCf) between the mean value of the coefficient of friction obtained for a velocity of 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and the mean value of the coefficient of friction obtained for a fixed velocity at 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 is then calculated as follows:

ΔCf=(Cf.sub.m1−Cf.sub.m4)/(Cf.sub.m1)×100

[0171] Results

[0172] The results obtained are recorded in table 3 hereinafter.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Emulsion (E.sub.1) (F.sub.1) (F.sub.2) (F.sub.3) Δ.sub.Cf −6.8% +18.2% +17.5% +14.5%

[0173] Analysis of the Results

[0174] The results recorded in table 3 clearly reveal that the variation in the means of the coefficients of friction, between spreading at a velocity of 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and a velocity of 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1, for the emulsion (E.sub.1) according to the invention is less than a value of 10% (−6.8%), whereas the comparative emulsions (F.sub.2) and (F.sub.3), comprising silicone oils known to confer improved spreading on the emulsions that contain them, show a variation in the coefficient of friction of greater than 15% between spreading at a velocity of 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and a velocity of 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1.

These results thus show an improvement in the ease of spreading of the emulsions according to the invention compared with emulsions comprising emollients known to impart an ease of spreading on the emulsions containing them.
The variation in the means of the coefficients of friction, between spreading at a velocity of 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and a velocity of 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 for the comparative emulsion (F.sub.1), comprising isohexadecane, that is to say an isoparaffin comprising 16 carbon atoms, shows a value of 18.2%, that is to say less performance and less ease of spreading for the emulsions comprising this isoparaffin comprising 16 carbon atoms, than for the emulsions according to the invention.

[0175] Finally, the negative variation of the mean of the coefficients of friction, between a velocity of 1 radian.Math.s.sup.−1 and a velocity of 4 radian.Math.s.sup.−1, shows an additional technical benefit, namely the obtaining of a lower mean value of the coefficient of friction for a low velocity, that is to say a possibility of spreading the emulsion according to the invention on the skin more easily.

Evaluation of the Sensory Properties of Oil-In-Water Emulsions According to the Invention and of Comparative Oil-In-Water Emulsions

[0176] Principle of the Method

[0177] 13 duly trained and authorized panellists evaluated the criteria of “sensation of richness”, of “shininess of the skin” and of “shininess of the emulsion” of oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention and of comparative oil-in-water emulsions, by taking as reference base an emulsion known by those skilled in the art to constitute an emulsion for which the richness criterion is recognized by all of the panellists, and also a comparison reference to be surpassed in order to realize the stated technical problem.

[0178] Procedure

[0179] The procedure carried out comprises 5 steps which are the following: [0180] Step 1: control and evaluation of the appearance and the odor of the oil-in-water emulsion tested, [0181] Step 2: take-up in the hand: evaluation of the ease of taking hold, and observation of a possible runny appearance, [0182] Step 3: spreading of the tested emulsion on the skin by circular application to the surface of the skin, at one and the same speed for 10 circular movements, and collection of the sensations perceived at the end of the 10.sup.th circular movement, [0183] Step 4: continuation of the spreading of the tested emulsion on the skin, still by application of the same circular movement until the absence of emulsion film is observed, and gathering of the perceived sensations, [0184] Step 5: gathering of the perceived sensations after 1 minute after the end of the spreading.

[0185] This procedure is carried out at a temperature of 20° C.

[0186] Expression of the Results:

[0187] For each emulsion tested, and for each sensory criterion evaluated, each panellist indicates whether said emulsion tested provides an improved sensation compared with the reference emulsion. All of the evaluations are collected and the data are statistically processed so as to determine the significant nature of any difference, improvement or degradation, between the sensation perceived for the emulsion tested and the reference emulsion.

[0188] Results [0189] “Sensation of richness” criterion [0190] Reference emulsion: emulsion (F.sub.4).

[0191] The emulsions according to the invention (E.sub.1) and (E.sub.3), and also the comparative emulsions (F.sub.2) and (F.sub.5) are evaluated according to the protocol defined above, and the results obtained are recorded in table 4 below. The improvement in the sensation of richness compared with (F.sub.4) is denoted “>(F.sub.4)” and the deterioration of the sensation of richness compared with (F.sub.4) is denoted “<(F.sub.4)” at each moment of the spreading process.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Emulsion (E.sub.1) (E.sub.3) (F.sub.2) (F.sub.5) Step 1: Visual evaluation >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) Step 2: Evaluation of taking hold >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) Step 3: Evaluation after the first >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) 10 circular movements Step 4: Evaluation after penetration >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) Step 5: Evaluation 1 minute after >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) end of spreading

[0192] “Shininess of the Skin” Criterion [0193] Reference emulsion: emulsion (F.sub.4).

[0194] The emulsions according to the invention (E.sub.1) and (E.sub.3), and also the comparative emulsions (F.sub.2) and (F.sub.5) are evaluated according to the protocol defined above, and the results obtained are recorded in table 5 below. The increase in the shininess of the skin compared with (F.sub.4) is denoted “>(F.sub.4)” and its decrease is denoted “<(F.sub.4)”.

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Emulsion (E.sub.1) (E.sub.3) (F.sub.2) (F.sub.5) Step 5: Evaluation 1 minute <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) after end of spreading

[0195] “Shininess of the Emulsion” Criterion

[0196] The emulsions according to the invention (E.sub.1) and (E.sub.3), and also the comparative emulsions (F.sub.2) and (F.sub.5) are evaluated according to the protocol defined above, and the results obtained are recorded in table 5 below. The increase in the shininess of the emulsion compared with (F.sub.4) is denoted “>(F.sub.4)” and its decrease is denoted “<(F.sub.4)”.

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Emulsion (E.sub.1) (E.sub.3) (F.sub.2) (F.sub.5) Step 1: Visual evaluation >(F.sub.4) >(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4) <(F.sub.4)

[0197] Analysis of the Results

[0198] The results obtained show the improvement in the sensory and esthetic properties by virtue of the method according to the invention.

Illustrative Formulae

Antisun Emulsion

[0199]

TABLE-US-00007 Ingredients % (by weight) Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEPIMAX ™ ZEN) 0.90% Glycerol 1.50% Water qs 100% .sup.  Easynov ™ 3.00% EMOGREEN ™L15 12.00%  Sepicide ™ HB 1.00% Fragrance 0.30% Titanium Dioxide And Alumina And Stearic Acid 10.00% 

High UV Protection Antisun Fluid

[0200]

TABLE-US-00008 Ingredients % (by weight) Montanov ™ 82 2.00% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 17.00%  Octocrylene 6.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00% Bis-Ethylhexylphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine 3.00% Emogreen ™L19 3.00% Tocopherol 0.05% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEPIMAX ™ ZEN) 0.25% Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00% Titanium Dioxide And Isohexadecane And 5.40% Triethylhexanoin And Aluminum Stearate And Alumina And Polyhydroxystearic Acid Water qs 100% .sup.  Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol 10.00%  Citric Acid qs pH 5.5 Aquaxyl ™ 3.00% Phenoxyethanol Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Fragrance 0.20%

High UV Protection Antisun Fluid

[0201]

TABLE-US-00009 Ingredients % (by weight) Montanov ™ 82 2.00% C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 17.00%  Octocrylene 6.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00% 2-Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine 3.00% propionate Emogreen ™L15 3.00% Tocopherol 0.05% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEPIMAX ™ ZEN) 0.25% Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00% Titanium Dioxide And Isohexadecane And 5.40% Triethylhexanoin And Aluminum Stearate And Alumina And Polyhydroxystearic Acid Water qs 100% .sup.  Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol 10.00%  Citric Acid qs pH 5.5 Aquaxyl ™ 3.00% Phenoxyethanol Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00% Fragrance 0.20%

Hair Balm

[0202]

TABLE-US-00010 Ingredients % (by weight) Water qs 100% .sup.  Glycerin 1.50% Propanediol 1.50% Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEPIMAX ™ ZEN) 1.50% Cera Alba 2.00% Copernica Cerifera 1.00% Butyrospermum parkii 2.00% Prunus amygdalus dulcis 4.00% Simmondsia chinensis seed oil 6.00% Emogreen ™L15 3.00% Montanov ™ 202 2.50% Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00% Aquaxyl ™ 3.00% Tocopherol & Helianthus annuus seed oil 0.10% Benzyl alcohol & Dehydroacetic acid 0.70% Citrus aurantium peel oil 0.20% Sodium chloride 1.00% Sodium Hydroxide qs pH 5.5
SEPIMAX™ Zen (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) is a thickening and stabilizing anionic polymer sold by the company SEPPIC.
Easynov™ (Octyldodecanol & Octydodecyl Xyloside & PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) is a water-in-oil type emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.
Solagum™ AX (Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum) is a thickening and stabilizing polymer of natural origin, sold by the company SEPPIC.
Montanov™ 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol & Cocoglucoside) is an oil-in-water type emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC. [0203] Aquaxyl™ (Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol) is a moisturizing active agent sold by the company SEPPIC.
Sepicide™ HB (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben) is a preserving composition sold by the company SEPPIC.
Citrus Waterfall fragrance concentrate is sold by the company Mane.
Montanov™ 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside) is an oil-in-water type emulsifier sold by the company SEPPIC.