COSMETIC CLEANSING COMPOSITION COMPRISING A COPOLYMER OF THE ASE OR HASE TYPE

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of cosmetic cleansing compositions and proposes an aqueous cosmetic cleansing composition which does not comprise any surfactant compound and no lipophilic compound. This composition comprises a water-soluble humectant compound and a copolymer of the ASE type or a copolymer of the HASE type. The invention also provides a cleansing method using this composition, and in particular a make-up removal method.

Claims

1. A water-based cosmetic cleansing composition that does not comprise any surfactant compound or any lipophilic compound, comprising: (a) at least one water-soluble compound selected from the group consisting of a water-soluble moistening compound and a water-soluble solvent; (b) at least one copolymer selected from the group consisting of: (b1) an ASE copolymer, and (b2) an HASE copolymer.

2. The composition according to claim 1, consisting of water; (a) the at least one water-soluble compound; (b) the at least one copolymer; and optionally (c) at least one preservative compound.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one water-soluble compound (a) is different from ethanol or is selected from the group consisting of a synthetically-derived water-soluble compound, and a naturally-derived water-soluble compound.

4. The cleansing composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one compound (b) is selected from the group consisting of: an ASE copolymer (b1) prepared by at least one polymerisation reaction of at least one anionic monomer (A) and at least one ester (B) of an acid, wherein the at least one anionic monomer (A) comprises at least one polymerisable olefinic unsaturation; and the at least one ester (B) of an acid is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid and crotonic acid; an HASE copolymer (b2) prepared by polymerisation reaction of at least one anionic monomer (A); at least one ester (B) and at least one compound (C) of formula (I):
R.sup.1-(EO).sub.m—(PO).sub.n—R.sup.2  (I) wherein: m and n independently represent 0 or an integer or decimal less than 150, m or n being different from 0, EO independently represents a CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O group, PO independently represents a group selected from the group consisting of CH(CH.sub.3)CH.sub.2O and CH.sub.2CH(CH.sub.3)O and combinations thereof, R.sup.1 independently represents a group comprising at least one polymerisable olefinic unsaturation, and R.sup.2 independently represents a straight or branched C.sub.6-C.sub.40-alkyl group, a phenyl group, a polyphenyl group.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one copolymer (b) has a pH greater than 5.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one copolymer (b) is totally or partially neutralised by means of a base.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one copolymer (b) is prepared by a polymerisation reaction which uses: at least one compound (D) selected from the group consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, ethoxymethacrylate sulphonic acid, sodium methallyl sulphonate, styrene sulphonate hydroxyethyl acrylate phosphate, hydroxypropyl acrylate phosphate, hydroxyethylhexyl acrylate phosphate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate phosphate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate phosphate, hydroxyethylhexyl methacrylate phosphate, and their salts; or at least one compound (E) selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethylhexyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, and hydroxyethylhexyl methacrylate; or at least one monomer (F) selected from the group consisting of a cross-linking monomer and a monomer comprising at least two olefinic unsaturations.

8. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one preservative compound (c).

9. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of composition: from 0.2 to 30% by dry weight or from 0.2 to 20% by dry weight of the at least one water-soluble compound (a); from 0.3 to 15% by dry weight or from 0.3 to 10% by dry weight of the at least one copolymer (b); from 0.001 to 5% by dry weight or from 0.001 to 3% by dry weight of a preservative compound (c); an additional quantity (qsp) of water.

10. The composition according to claim 1, which is liquid or gelled.

11. The composition according to claim 1, which is a makeup removal composition.

12. A cosmetic formulation comprising the composition according to claim 1 and at least one substance (d) selected from the group consisting of a cosmetic admixture and a cosmetic additive.

13. The formulation according to claim 12 further comprising a hydrophobic phase.

14. The formulation according to claim 13 which is in biphasic form and comprising: an aqueous phase comprising the composition, and a hydrophobic phase.

15. A method for cleansing a substrate, the method comprising: applying the composition according to claim 1 on the substrate, optionally without rinsing with water.

16. The cleansing method according to claim 15, wherein the substrate is keratin.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one copolymer (b) has a pH less than 8.

Description

EXAMPLE 1: PREPARATION OF COPOLYMERS (B1) AND (B2) AND OF COMPOSITIONS ACCORDING to the Invention

[0114] Preparation of Copolymers (b1) and (b2):

[0115] In a 1 L reactor that is stirred and heated using an oil bath, a mixture (M1) is prepared by introducing deionised water, an anionic surfactant compound which is sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or sodium laureth sulphate (SLES—Texapon NSO UP at 28% by weight in water) and, optionally, a non-ionic surfactant compound (Rhodasurf ID 030 by Solvay or Polyglycol B01/40 by Clariant) and, optionally, a monomer (D) which is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid (AMPS 2405 by Lubrizol) at 50% by weight in water.

[0116] In a beaker, a mixture (M2) is also prepared, comprising, in deionised water: [0117] monomer (A): methacrylic acid (MAA), [0118] monomer (B): ethyl acrylate (EA), [0119] optionally, another monomer (B): methyl methacrylate (MMA), [0120] optionally, a monomer (F): a cross-linking monomer (Fancryl 512-AS from Hitachi Chemical), [0121] optionally a surfactant compound: SLS, [0122] optionally a monomer (C) of formula (I): branched associative monomer C.sub.16-EO.sub.25-alkyl methacrylate or branched associative monomer C.sub.12-EO.sub.25-alkyl methacrylate or straight associative monomer C.sub.22-EO.sub.25-alkyl methacrylate or branched associative monomer C.sub.20-EO.sub.36-alkyl methacrylate, [0123] optionally n-dodecylmercaptan.

[0124] The mixture (M2) is stirred to form a monomer mixture.

[0125] An initiator solution (S1) is prepared comprising ammonium persulphate and deionised water. Optionally, an initiator solution (S2) is prepared comprising sodium metabisulphite and deionised water. All reagents and amounts used are listed in Table 1.

[0126] For copolymers A, C and E, in the reactor heated to the polymerisation temperature±1° C., the initiator solution (S1) and the mixture (M2) are simultaneously injected over 2 hours (2.5 hours for copolymer C). For copolymers B, D and F, the initiator solutions (S1) and (S2) then the mixture (M2) are injected over 2 hours into the reactor heated to the polymerisation temperature±1° C.

[0127] Cook for 30 minutes at the same temperature. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

[0128] The polymers according to the invention were prepared under these conditions while varying the monomer compositions of the monomer mixture (M2). The copolymer compositions obtained are shown in Table 1.

TABLE-US-00001 Copolymer/quantity (g): A B C D E F M1 Deionised water 575.00 492.46 477.00 384.50 257.00 479.70 SLS 0.00 5.70 0.30 5.20 3.70 4.40 Texapon NSO UP 10.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Rhodasurf ID 030 0.00 0.00 0.00 4.40 0.00 4.20 AMPS (AMPS 2405) 0.00 0.00 0.00 6.60 0.00 9.50 Polyglycol B01/40 0.00 5.30 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 M2 Deionised water 25.30 184.46 93.10 125.36 340.00 130.54 SLS 0.00 2.00 3.10 1.80 3.70 1.50 MAA 88.16 100.00 105.90 83.64 111.90 120.60 EA 176.30 160.90 200.20 123.30 83.00 164.10 MMA 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 83.00 0.00 Fancryl 512-AS cross-linking 0.90 0.00 0.60 0.00 0.00 0.00 monomer Branched C.sub.12(EO).sub.25-alkyl 0.00 0.00 0.00 28.20 0.00 0.00 methacrylate Branched C.sub.16(EO).sub.25-alkyl 22.95 0.00 0.00 0.00 29.00 0.00 methacrylate Straight C.sub.22(EO)25-alkyl 0.00 29.45 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 methacrylate Branched C.sub.20(EO).sub.36-alkyl 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 5.80 methacrylate N-dodecyl mercaptan 0.09 0.00 0.00 0.26 0.90 0.00 S1 Deionised water 62.8 1.25 46.3 5.80 39 14.00 Ammonium persulphate 0.4 0.90 0.3 0.70 0.4 0.90 S2 Deionised water 0.00 1.25 0.00 3.60 0.00 4.00 Sodium metabisulphite 0.00 0.09 0.00 0.07 0.00 0.09 Polymerisation temperature 85° C. 76° C. 87° C. 76° C. 85° C. 75° C.

[0129] Preparation and Evaluation of Compositions According to the Invention and Comparative Compositions

[0130] To prepare the compositions according to the invention, the ingredients are mixed under stirring using a Rayneri stirrer, then the pH of the formulation is adjusted by adding a 20% NaOH solution. The ingredients and amounts used are shown in Table 2.

[0131] The makeup-removing effects are evaluated for the compositions according to the invention and for the comparative compositions (C1) (Gamier All-in-One micellar solution) and (C2) (Nivea MicellAIR micellar gel).

[0132] To evaluate the cleansing efficacy of the compositions, a piece of Transpore 3M adhesive tape is glued to a smooth surface.

[0133] Then, 3 cosmetic products are applied on these pieces of adhesive tape: lipstick (Velvet Mat Red & Long lasting hold up to 24 h, 08 Rubi's cute by Bourgeois), eye pencil (Super liner Le Khol 101 Midnight Black by L'Oreal) and foundation (Super Stay 24 h 48 hours Sun beige by Maybelline New York). The tape is left to dry.

[0134] An amount of approximately 1 g of cleansing composition is applied to a cotton pad (Duo Pro by Inell, Leclerc reference brand).

[0135] The makeup product is manually wiped from the surface of the adhesive tape.

[0136] The cleansing efficacy of each composition is visually assessed according to the residual colour on each piece of adhesive tape after wiping and an efficacy score is assigned using a scale ranging from 1 to 4: 1 corresponds to very low cleansing efficacy, 2 corresponds to low cleansing efficacy, 3 corresponds to good cleansing efficacy and 4 corresponds to excellent cleansing efficacy.

[0137] Comparative composition (C1) obtains a score of 1 for lipstick removal, a score of 1 for eye pencil removal, and a score of 1 for foundation removal. Comparative composition (C2) obtains a score of 2 for lipstick removal, a score of 2 for eye pencil removal, and a score of 2 for foundation removal. The results obtained for the compositions according to the invention are shown in Tables 2 and 3.

TABLE-US-00002 Composition according to the invention: 1 2 3 4 5 Copolymer Polymer A (ES = 28%) 6 6 6 4 8 Moistening Glycerine (Sigma-Aldrich) 1 1 1 1 1 compound Methylpropanediol 0 1 0 0 0 (DUB Diol, Stéarinerie Dubois) Pentylene glycol 0 0 1 1 1 (Pentiol Green + Minnasolve) Butylene glycol (Sigma-Aldrich) 1 0 0 0 0 Preservative Phenoxyethanol (Sigma-Aldrich) 1 1 1 1 1 Water 91 91 91 93 89 NaOH at 20% in water up to pH 6.7 6.8 6.9 6.9 6.9 Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm, 25° C. (mPa .Math. s) 2,519 3,970 5,700 1,896 12,927 Makeup-removing lipstick 4 4 4 4 4 power eye pencil 4 4 4 4 4 foundation 4 4 4 4 4

[0138] At various dosages, the composition according to the invention comprising the copolymer A makes it possible to obtain excellent results for removing lipstick, eye pencil and foundation. Comparative cleansing compositions do not make it possible to obtain such results.

TABLE-US-00003 Composition according to the invention: 6 7 8 9 10 Copolymer Polymer B (ES = 30%) 6 0 0 0 0 Polymer C (ES = 30%) 0 6 0 0 0 Polymer D (ES = 30%) 0 0 6 0 0 Polymer E (ES = 30%) 0 0 0 6 0 Polymer F (ES = 30%) 0 0 0 0 6 Moistening Glycerine (Sigma-Aldrich) 1 1 1 1 1 compound Pentylene glycol (Pentiol Green +, 1 1 1 1 1 Preservative Phenoxyethanol (Sigma-Aldrich) 1 1 1 1 1 Water 91 91 91 91 91 NaOH at 20% in water up to pH 6.9 6.9 6.9 6.9 6.9 Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm, 25° C. (mPa .Math. s) 100,000 4,200 630 113 28,524 Makeup- lipstick 4 4 4 4 4 removing eye pencil 3 3 3 4 4 power foundation 4 4 4 4 4

[0139] Unlike the comparative cleansing compositions, the compositions according to the invention comprising different copolymers make it possible to remove lipstick, eye pencil and foundation with very good results or excellent results.