DYE COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE POLYSACCHARIDE-TYPE POLYMER AND PROCESS FOR DYEING KERATIN FIBERS USING SAME

20220071884 · 2022-03-10

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    The present application relates to a dye composition comprising at least one polysaccharide-type polymer, at least one fatty ether that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of formula R—O—R′ with R and R′, which are identical or different, denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, R and R′ comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, and at least one direct dye and/or at least one dye precursor.

    Claims

    1.-17. (canceled)

    18. A dye composition comprising: at least one polysaccharide-type polymer; at least one fatty ether that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of formula R—O—R′, wherein R and R′, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals comprising at least 12 carbon atoms; and at least one direct dye and/or dye precursor.

    19. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one polysaccharide-type polymer is nonionic.

    20. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one polysaccharide-type polymer is chosen from microbial gums.

    21. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one polysaccharide-type polymer is present in a total amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

    22. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one polysaccharide-type polymer is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

    23. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein in formula R—O—R′, R and R′, which are identical or different, are chosen from C.sub.12-C.sub.40 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals.

    24. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein in formula R—O—R′, R and R′, which are identical or different, are chosen from C.sub.14-C.sub.24 linear alkyl radicals.

    25. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein R and R′ are identical and are chosen from C.sub.16-C.sub.22 linear alkyl radicals.

    26. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one fatty ether comprises a distearyl ether.

    27. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one fatty ether is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

    28. The composition of claim 18, comprising at least one dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases or couplers.

    29. The dye composition of claim 18, comprising at least one direct dye chosen from anionic, cationic, or neutral synthetic direct dyes.

    30. The dye composition of claim 18, comprising at least one direct dye chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, anionic or cationic (poly)azo direct dyes, neutral, anionic or cationic hydrazono direct dyes, neutral, anionic or cationic quinone direct dyes, azine and (poly)arylmethane direct dyes, (poly)methines, porphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, or mixtures thereof.

    31. The dye composition of claim 18, comprising at least one direct dye chosen from (poly)azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, anthraquinone direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, or mixtures thereof.

    32. The dye composition of claim 18, comprising at least one direct dye chosen from natural dyes.

    33. The dye composition of claim 18, wherein the at least one direct dye and/or dye precursor is present in a total amount ranging from 0.001% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

    34. The dye composition of claim 18, further comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

    35. The dye composition of claim 34, wherein the at least one surfactant is chosen from alkyl polyglucosides.

    36. The dye composition of claim 18, further comprising at least one organic solvent.

    37. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising applying a dye composition on the keratin fibers; wherein the dye composition comprises: at least one polysaccharide-type polymer; at least one fatty ether that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of formula R—O—R′, wherein R and R′, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals comprising at least 12 carbon atoms; and at least one direct dye and/or dye precursor.

    Description

    EXAMPLE

    Example 1

    [0195] The following compositions are prepared (amounts in g % of active material):

    TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 A1 A2 (invention) (comparative) Basic Orange 31 0.5 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 2 2 Ethyl alcohol as a 95% aqueous solution 10 10 Distearyl ether 10 10 Sclerotium gum (INCI name) 1 — Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ — 1 VP copolymer (INCI Name) Coco-glucoside 1 1 ((C8-C16)alkyl polyglucoside (1, 4) as a 53% aqueous solution) Water Q.s. for 100 Q.s. for 100 pH 6 ± 0.2 6 ± 0.2

    [0196] Compositions A1 and A2 are applied to locks of natural dry hair containing 90% white hair and to locks of permanent-waved dry hair containing 90% white hair in an amount of 5 g of composition per 1 g of hair.

    [0197] After a leave-on time of 30 minutes on a hot plate at 33° C. under plastic wrap, the locks are rinsed with water then shampooed and dried.

    [0198] Colorimetric Results:

    [0199] The coloration of the hair is evaluated visually and read on a Minolta spectrocolorimeter (CM3600d, illuminant D65, angle 10°, SCI values) for the L*, a*, b* colorimetric measurements.

    [0200] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* indicates the blue/yellow color axis. The lower the value of L*, the darker or more intense the color. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade.

    [0201] Selectivity

    [0202] The variation in coloration between the dyed locks of natural/permanent-waved hair is defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:


    ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

    [0203] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after dyeing locks of natural hair, and L0*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on locks of permanent-waved hair.

    [0204] The higher the value of ΔE, the greater the difference in color between the natural and permanent-waved locks. The locks of permanent-waved hair are representative of the tips of hair whereas the locks of natural hair are representative of the hair at the root. A low ΔE difference is representative of a more uniform coloring between the roots and the tips of the hair.

    [0205] The results are given in the table below:

    TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Color ΔE* composition A1 (invention) Highly chromatic 1.7 orange composition A2 (comparative) Chromatic orange 5.9

    [0206] Locks dyed a highly chromatic orange and with a lower selectivity were obtained in the case of the composition A1 as confirmed by the colorimetric measurements of ΔE.

    [0207] The composition according to the invention (A1) results in a more homogeneous coloring (markedly lower selectivity), it also makes it possible to color the hair more chromatically than the comparative composition (A2).

    Example 2

    [0208] The following compositions are prepared (amounts in g % of active material):

    TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 B1 B2 Cl C2 (invention) (comparative) (invention) (comparative) Acid Blue 25 0.5 0.5 — — HC Blue 15 — — 0.5 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 Ethyl alcohol 10 10 10 10 as a 95% aqueous solution Distearyl ether 10 10 10 10 Sclerotium gum 1 — 1 — (INCI name) Ammonium — 1 — 1 acryloyl- dimethyltaurate/ VP copolymer (INCI Name) Coco-glucoside 1 1 1 1 ((C8-C16)alkyl polyglucoside (1, 4) as a 53% aqueous solution) Citric acid 2 2 — — Water Q.s. for 100 Q.s. for 100 Q.s. for 100 Q.s. for 100 pH 2.6 ± 0.2 2.6 ± 0.2 6 ± 0.2 6 ± 0.2 Appearance homogeneous aggregates homogeneous homogeneous

    [0209] Homogeneous smooth and shiny cream gels that are very easy to apply and to rinse are obtained in the case of the compositions according to the invention (B1, C1) whereas in the case of the comparative composition B2 the presence of aggregates (inhomogeneous formula) is noted.

    [0210] Compositions B1, B2, C1 and C2 are applied to locks of permanent-waved dry hair containing 90% white hair, with a bath ratio of 5 g of composition per 1 g of hair.

    [0211] After a leave-on time of 30 minutes on a hot plate at 33° C. under plastic wrap, the locks are rinsed with water then shampooed and dried.

    [0212] Colorimetric Results:

    [0213] The coloration is evaluated as described in example 1.

    [0214] The increase in coloration is represented by ΔE* in the table below which corresponds to the difference in coloration between the untreated locks and the dyed locks.

    [0215] The variation in coloration between the dyed locks of permanent-waved white hair and the locks before treatment are defined by (ΔE*) according to the following equation:


    ΔE*=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

    [0216] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after dyeing permanent-waved hair, and L0*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured on untreated permanent-waved hair.

    [0217] The higher the value of ΔE, the greater the difference in color between the control locks and the dyed locks.

    [0218] L* represents the lightness; the lower the value of L*, the more intense the coloring obtained.

    [0219] The results are given in the table below:

    TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 ΔE* L* a* b* (increase in (D65) (D65) (D65) coloration) Permanent-waved hair 69.26 0.69 17.7 — before treatment Permanent-waved hair after 30.65 −2.47 −26.58 58.8 treatment with B1 (invention) Permanent-waved hair after 34.08 −6.37 −25.27 55.9 treatment with B2 (comparative) Permanent-waved hair after 27.53 3.99 −31.3 64.5 treatment with C1 (invention) Permanent-waved hair after 34.41 −6.9 −30.81 60.2 treatment with C2 (comparative)

    [0220] More intense blue locks were obtained in the case of the compositions of the invention B1 and C1 in comparison with the comparative compositions respectively B2 and C2.

    [0221] The compositions according to the invention (B1, C1) result in significantly higher values of ΔE, therefore in a better increase in the color than the comparative compositions B2 and C2 respectively.

    [0222] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention (B1, C1) result in significantly lower values of L*, therefore in a more intense coloration, compared to the comparative compositions B2 and C2 respectively.

    Example 3

    [0223] The following compositions are prepared (amounts in g % of active material):

    TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 4 A1 A2 (invention) (comparative) Basic Red 51 0.5 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 2 2 Ethyl alcohol as a 95% aqueous solution 10 10 Distearyl ether/Dicetyl ether (1:1) 15 — Xanthane gum 1 1 Coco-glucoside 1.5 1.5 ((C8-C16)alkyl polyglucoside (1, 4) as a 53% aqueous solution) Water Q.s. for 100 Q.s. for 100 pH 8.7 ± 0.2 8.6 ± 0.2

    [0224] Compositions A1 and A2 are applied to permanent-waved dry hair containing 90% white hair in an amount of 5 g of composition per 1 g of hair.

    [0225] After a leave-on time of 30 minutes on a hot plate at 33° C. under plastic wrap, the locks are rinsed with water then shampooed and dried.

    [0226] Colorimetric Results:

    [0227] The coloration is evaluated as described in example 1.

    [0228] The chromaticity is calculated according to the following formula: The higher the value of the chromaticity C*, the more the color of the fibers is chromatic.


    C*=√{square root over ((a*).sup.2+(b*).sup.2)}

    [0229] The results are given in the table below:

    TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 a* b* C* (D65) (D65) (D65) Permanent-waved hair 0.74 14.66 — before treatment treatment with A1 35.58 13.88 38.2 (invention) treatment with A2 30.05 10.08 31.7 (comparative)

    [0230] The fibers treated with composition A according to the invention found to have a more chromatic color (higher C* value) compared to those treated with composition B according to the prior art, while ending up with good intensity color.