Process for treating hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for permanent shaping and dyeing carried out one after another with compositions providing improved and milder shaping and dyeing of hair, especially human hair. The inventors of the present invention have unexpectedly found out that when commonly used permanent shaping and dyeing compositions are mixed with another composition comprising predominantly carboxylic acids, the permanent shaping and dyeing effects of the compositions are improved, homogeneous permanent shaping and dyeing of hair fibers is achieved and natural cosmetic properties of hair are maintained.

Claims

1. A process for treating hair, the process comprising: a) washing hair with a cleansing composition and towel drying the washed hair to provide dried hair; b) applying a first ready to use composition onto the dried hair and leaving the first ready to use composition on the dried hair for a first time period ranging from 1 minute to 30 minutes, wherein the first ready to use comprises a composition A that is an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agents and one or more alkalizing agents and having a pH value ranging from 7.5 to 12.0; c) rinsing the first ready to use composition off the dried hair with water to provide a rinsed hair; d) optionally applying a composition C onto the rinsed hair, wherein the composition C is an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents and having a pH value ranging from 1.5 to 5; e) applying a second ready to use composition onto the rinsed hair, and leaving the second ready to use composition on the rinsed hair for a second time period ranging from 1 minute to 45 minutes to provide a dyed hair, wherein the second ready to use composition comprises the composition C and a composition B that is an aqueous composition comprising one or more hair dyes and one or more alkalizing agents and having a pH value ranging from 7.1 to 12; and f) rinsing the second ready to use composition off the dyed hair, wherein the first ready to use composition has a pH value in the range of 6.5-11 and is obtained by mixing the composition A with a composition D immediately before application onto the hair, the second ready to use composition has a pH value ranging from 6.5 to 11 and is obtained by mixing the composition B and the composition C with the composition D immediately before application onto the hair, the composition D has a pH value ranging from 1 to 5 and comprises: i) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts, and ii) one or more additional organic acids and/or their salts having two carboxyl groups, the composition D comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration of 10% to 100% by weight, calculated to a total weight of the composition D, and each of the first and second ready to use compositions comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, calculated to a total weight of each of the first and second ready to use compositions.

2. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more carboxylic acids with three or more carboxyl groups is selected from the group consisting of citric acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid, and glutamate diacetate, the one or more additional organic acids with two carboxyl groups is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, and fumaric acid, and the composition D comprises the one or more carboxylic acids of (i) and the one or more additional organic acids of (ii) at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) ranging from 10:1 to 1:250.

3. The process of claim 1, wherein the composition D is a powder, a dispersion, an emulsion, or a solution.

4. The process of claim 1, wherein the pH value of the composition D ranges from 2 to 4, and the composition D further comprises one or more alkalizing agent.

5. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more carboxylic acids with three or more carboxyl groups is EDTA and/or its salts.

6. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more organic acids with two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salts.

7. The process of claim 1, wherein the composition B further comprises one or more oxidative dye precursors, selected from the group consisting of p-phenylendiamines, p-aminophenols, and heterocyclic diamines, and optionally one or more coupling substances, selected from the group consisting of resorcinols, m-aminophenols, m-phenylendiamines, pyridines and its derivatives, and naphthols.

8. The process of claim 1, wherein at least one of the composition B and the composition D further comprises one or more hair direct dye selected from the group consisting of cationic dyes, anionic dyes, nitro dyes, and mixtures thereof.

9. The process of claim 1, wherein the composition D further comprises at least one alkalizing agent, and at least one of the composition A, the composition B, and the composition D comprises at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are the same or different, and selected from H, C1 to C4, C3 to C4 unsaturated alkyl, C3 to C4 branched alkyl, C1 to C4 hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H.

10. The process of claim 1, wherein at least one of the composition A, the composition B, the composition C, and the composition D further comprises one or more ingredients selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, surfactants, ubiquinones, ceramides, reducing agents, organic solvents, silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, amino acids, and polyols.

11. The process of claim 1, wherein the composition B further comprises one or more reducing agents and the one or more reducing agents of the composition A and the composition B are selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, and cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, the composition A comprises the one or more reducing agents at a concentration ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of composition A, and/or the composition B comprises the one or more reducing agents at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 1.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of composition B.

12. The process of claim 2, wherein the composition D further comprises one or more thickening polymers selected from anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, and amphoteric polymers, having a viscosity of at least 500 mPa.Math.s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20° C. with a Brookfield viscometer, with an appropriate spindle.

13. The process of claim 12, wherein the one or more thickening polymers is selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, and polymeric anionic thickeners, the one or more thickening polymers are present in the composition D at a total concentration ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, calculated to a total weight of the composition D, and the weight ratio (i)/(ii) ranges from 2:1 to 1:100.

14. The process of claim 4, wherein the one or more alkalizing agent is present in at least one of the composition A, the composition B, and the composition D at a concentration in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight, calculated to a total weight of the composition A, the composition B, and the composition D, respectively.

15. The process of claim 1, further comprising: applying the composition C onto the rinsed hair in d) prior to application of the second ready to use composition in e).

16. The process of claim 1, further comprising: putting the dried hair under tension before or during or after application of the first ready to use composition in b); and releasing the tension from rinsed hair before application of the second ready to use composition in e).

17. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more oxidizing agents of the composition C is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, melamin peroxide or perborate salts.

18. The process of claim 9, wherein the one or more alkalizing agents is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, monoethanolamine, and aminomethylpropanol.

19. The process of claim 4, wherein the pH value of the composition D ranges from 2.5 to 3.6.

20. The process of claim 19, wherein the pH value of the second ready to use composition ranges from 6.8 to 10.5.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) The Composition A

(2) TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 21.3 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 3.0 Amodimethicone 0.2 PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.7 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.3 Water ad 100.0
The Composition B

(3) TABLE-US-00002 % by weight Cetearyl alcohol 10.0 Cocamide MEA 4.0 Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.5 Propylene glycol 2.0 Cetyltrimonium chloride 0.5 2,5,6-Triamino-4-hydroxypyrimidine sulphate 0.01 2,5-Diaminotoluene sulphate 0.55 4-Chlororesorcinol 0.17 Resorcinol 0.05 3-Aminophenol 0.03 Sodium sulfite 1.0 Aminomethylpropanol 2.0 Ammonium hydroxide q.s. to pH 10.0 Fragrance, preservative q.s. Water to 100
The Composition C

(4) TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 2 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.5 Water to 100
The Composition D

(5) TABLE-US-00004 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(6) The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.5.

(7) Caucasian hair of 25 cm length was obtained from Fischbach+Miller, Laupheim, Germany. The hair streaks were permanently straightened and dyed with the above compositions. First, the hair was shampooed with a Dualsenses Deep Cleansing Shampoo, towel dried and put on curlers and the reducing composition (the composition A) given above was applied onto hair after mixing with the composition D at a weight ratio of composition A to D 10:0.2 and processed for about 15 minutes. Then the composition was rinsed off from the hair and the dyeing composition obtained by mixing the compositions B, C and D at a weight ratio of 1:2:0.2 was applied onto hair. The resulting composition had a pH of approximately 9.5. The composition was applied onto streaks of human hair and left on the hair for 30 min at ambient temperature, then rinsed off from the hair and the hair was shampooed with a Dualsenses Color Protection Shampoo and dried (inventive process).

(8) For comparison purposes a similar process of above was applied to hair with the exception that composition D was replaced with an equal amount of water instead of composition D (comparative process).

(9) Evenness of perm and color durability were investigated on pre-damaged hair. Damage was conferred to hair by bleaching hair with a commercially available bleaching composition under the brand Goldwell. Then, the inventive and comparative process of above was applied to hair. The result was recorded by measuring spreading of the hair streaks and calculation of a volume factor based on the spreading of hair at the root and at the tip parts. In other words, width of hair streaks were measured at their root and at their tips by placing the hair streaks on millimeter paper. A volume factor was calculated according to equation (1):

(10) $\begin{array}{cc}\mathrm{Volumefactor}=\frac{\mathrm{Width}\mathrm{at}\mathrm{hair}\mathrm{tips}\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}{\mathrm{Width}\mathrm{at}\mathrm{hair}\mathrm{root}\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}& \mathrm{Equation}\left(1\right)\end{array}$

(11) Hair streaks before treatment displayed a volume factor of 1.2. As a result of the experiments, the hair treated with the inventive process had a volume factor of 1.45, whereas the hair treated with the comparative process had a volume factor of 2.63. In conclusion, the comparative process led to a much higher increase of hair volume which is definitively undesired by the customer as a result of a straightening process. The inventive process did not lead to such an increase.

(12) Color durability was investigated by incubating the hair streaks in a shaking bath with a shaking frequency of 100 min.sup.−1 for 15 min at 30° C. The water bath was filled with an aqueous solution of sodium laureth sulfate at a concentration of 5% by weight, calculated to the total of the water bath solution. Upon incubation, the hair streaks were rinsed with water and towel dried. Color results were measured prior to incubation and upon incubation by spectrophotometrical analysis with a Datacolor 45G CT instrument delivered from Datacolor Inc., Lawrenceville, N.J., USA. Based on the CIE*Lab color space results obtained by the measurements, ΔE.sub.ab values for color difference were calculated according to equation (1):
ΔE.sub.ab=√{square root over ((L.sub.2−L.sub.1)+(a.sub.2−a.sub.1)+(b.sub.2−b.sub.1))}  Equation 1

(13) The ΔE.sub.ab value for hair streaks treated with the inventive process was 10.93, whereas the ΔE.sub.ab value for the hair streaks treated with the comparative process was 13.75. Lower ΔE.sub.ab values correspond to less change in hair color upon incubation and the results clearly showed that the inventive process led to a much lower color change which differs to the comparative process by approximately 3 color units. In conclusion the presented data clearly showed the superior performance of the inventive process compared to the state-of-the-art process.

EXAMPLE 2

(14) Intermediate Composition

(15) TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Magnesium sulfate 10 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

(16) In the process disclosed with Example 1 above, the intermediate treatment composition was applied onto hair after rinsing off the reducing composition. The intermediate treatment composition was left on hair for 5 min and without rinsing it off the composition of step e was applied. The permanent shaping and dyeing results observed with the Example 1 were confirmed.

(17) Similar results were obtained with the following compositions.

EXAMPLE 3

(18) The Composition D

(19) TABLE-US-00006 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(20) The pH of the above composition D was approximately 3.6.

EXAMPLE 4

(21) The Composition D

(22) TABLE-US-00007 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Tetrasodium EDTA 3.0 Malic acid 13.0 Lactic acid 4.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-10 0.1 Water to 100 pH 3.4 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 5

(23) The Composition D

(24) TABLE-US-00008 Component % by weight Monoethanolamine (MEA) 2.7 Tetrasodium EDTA 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Panthenol 0.1 Water To 100 pH 3.3 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 6

(25) The Composition D

(26) TABLE-US-00009 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Citric acid 5.0 Maleic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Behenamidopropyl trimonium chloride 0.2 Water to 100 pH 1.5 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 7

(27) The Composition D

(28) TABLE-US-00010 Component % by weight MEA 2.0 Lactic acid 15.0 Citric acid 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-67 0.1 Water to 100 pH 2.7 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 8

(29) The Composition D

(30) TABLE-US-00011 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Basic red 51 1.00 HC red XX 1.00 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(31) The pH of the composition was 3.5.

EXAMPLE 9

(32) The Composition A

(33) TABLE-US-00012 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 0.9 Cystein hydrochloride 5.7 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.5 Acetylcystein 0.7 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 1,3-butylene gylcol 0.5 Amodimethicone 0.2 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 9.8 Water q.s. 100.0

(34) The composition B and C were same as Example 1.

(35) The Composition D

(36) TABLE-US-00013 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 4.0 Malic acid 17.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(37) The pH of the composition was 3.4.

EXAMPLE 10

(38) The Composition D (Powder)

(39) TABLE-US-00014 % by weight Tetrasodium EDTA 7.0 Malic acid 92.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.0

(40) 1 g of the composition above was added to the mixture of 30 g of composition A of example 1. After mixing thoroughly, the resulting composition was applied onto hair which was already put under tension using curlers and rinsed off after leaving it on the hair for 30 min. The hair was released from tension and the dyeing composition obtained by mixing the compositions B (20 g), C (20 g) and D (1 g) was applied onto hair and after leaving on the hair for 30 min rinsed off from hair and hair was shampooed and dried. It was observed that the hair was effectively and homogeneously curled and dyed and had its natural softness and elasticity.

EXAMPLE 11

(41) The Composition D

(42) TABLE-US-00015 % by weight EDTA monosodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(43) The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.1.

EXAMPLE 12

(44) The Composition D

(45) TABLE-US-00016 % by weight EDTA disodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(46) The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.2.

EXAMPLE 13

(47) The Composition D

(48) TABLE-US-00017 % by weight EDTA trisodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(49) The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.4.