Process for permanent shaping hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for improved and milder permanent shaping of hair, especially human hair. It has been found that when commonly used permanent shaping compositions are mixed with another composition comprising predominantly carboxylic acids, the permanent shaping effect of the composition is improved, homogeneous permanent shaping of hair fibers is achieved and natural cosmetic properties of hair are maintained.

Claims

1. A process for permanent shaping hair, the process comprising: a—optionally washing hair with a cleansing composition and towel drying the hair; b—mixing a composition A and a composition B immediately before application onto the hair at a weight ratio of composition A to composition B in the range of 10:0.1 to 10:1 to obtain a ready-to-use composition having an alkaline pH in the range from 7.3 to 11; c—applying the obtained ready-to-use composition onto the hair, and leaving the applied ready-to-use composition on the hair for 1 to 45 min; d—optionally rinsing the applied ready-to-use composition off the hair with water; e—optionally applying, onto the hair, an intermediate treatment composition comprising one or more inorganic salts and having a pH from 2 to 7; f—applying, onto the hair, a fixing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents and having a pH in the range of 1.5 to 5 and leaving the applied fixing composition on the hair for 1 to 15 min; g—optionally rinsing the applied fixing composition off the hair; and h—optionally drying the hair, wherein the composition A is an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agents, one or more alkalizing agents, and has a pH in the range of 7.5 to 12, the composition B comprises; i) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts; and ii) one or more additional organic acids and/or their salts having one or two carboxyl groups, the composition B comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration from 10% to 100% by weight, based on a total of the composition B, the obtained ready-to-use composition comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, based on a total of the obtained ready-to-use composition, the composition B comprises the acids of (i) and (ii) at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) ranging from 10:1 to 1:250, the hair is put under tension before, during, or after application of the obtained ready-to-use composition, and the tension is released from the hair before or during application of the fixing composition or prior to rinsing off the applied fixing composition off the hair.

2. The process of claim 1, wherein the hair is put under tension before application of the obtained ready-to-use composition.

3. The process of claim 2, wherein the tension is released from the hair after rinsing off the applied fixing composition off the hair.

4. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups are selected from citric acid, ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid, and glutamate diacetate, and the one or more additional organic acids with one or two carboxyl groups are selected from acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, and fumaric acid, the composition B comprises the acids of (i) and (ii) at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) ranging from 5:1 to 1:150, and the obtained ready-to-use composition has an alkaline pH in the range from 7.5 to 10.5.

5. The process of claim 1, wherein the composition B is a powder, a dispersion, an emulsion, a solution, or an aqueous composition.

6. The process of claim 1, wherein the pH of composition B ranges from 1 to 5 and the composition B further comprises an alkalizing agent.

7. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups is EDTA and/or its salts.

8. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more organic acids having one or two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salts.

9. The process of claim 1 wherein the one or more reducing agents of the composition A are selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, and cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, wherein the one or more reducing agents are present at a concentration ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, based on a total of composition A.

10. The process of claim 6, wherein at least one of the one or more alkalizing agents of the Composition A and at least one alkalizing agent of the composition B is selected from ammonia, alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different and are selected from H, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, and C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H.

11. The process of claim 1, wherein at least one of the composition A and the composition B comprise(s) one or more ingredients selected from fatty alcohols, surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants, ubiquinones, reducing agents, organic solvents, linear polysiloxanes, aminated silicones, cyclic silicones, arylated silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, amino acids, and polyols.

12. The process of claim 1, wherein the composition B comprises one or more thickening polymers selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, with a viscosity of at least 500 mPa.Math.s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20° C. with a Brookfield viscometer, with an appropriate spindle.

13. The process of claim 12, wherein the one or more thickening polymers are selected from hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, xanthan gum, and polymeric anionic thickeners.

14. The process of claim 1, wherein the one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups of composition B is EDTA and/or its salts, and the one or more additional organic acids having one or two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salt.

15. The process of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio (i)/(ii) ranges from 1:13 to 1:250.

16. A process for permanent shaping hair, the process comprising: a—applying a ready-to-use composition onto the hair, wherein the ready-to-use composition is obtained by mixing a composition A and a composition B immediately before application onto the hair at a weight ratio of composition A to composition B in the range of 10:0.1 to 10:1, and leaving the applied ready-to-use composition on the hair for 1 to 45 min; b—applying, onto the hair, a fixing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents and having a pH in the range of 1.5 to 5 and leaving the applied fixing composition on the hair for 1 to 15 min; wherein the composition A is an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agents, one or more alkalizing agents, and has a pH in the range of 7.5 to 12, the composition B comprises; i) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts selected from citric acid, ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid, glutamate diacetate, and their salts; and ii) one or more additional organic acids and/or their salts having one or two carboxyl groups selected from acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, and their salts, the composition B comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration from 10% to 100% by weight, based on a total of the composition B, the ready-to-use composition has an alkaline pH in the range from 7.3 to 11 and comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, based on a total of the ready-to-use composition, the composition B comprises the acids of (i) and (ii) at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) ranging from 10:1 to 1:250, the hair is put under tension before, during, or after application of the ready-to-use composition, and the tension is released from the hair before or during application of the fixing composition or prior to rinsing off the applied fixing composition off the hair.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) The Composition A

(2) TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 21.3 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 5.0 1,3-butylene gylcol 3.0 Amodimethicone 0.2 PEG-40-Hydrogenated castor oil 0.7 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 8.3 Water ad 100.0

(3) The Composition B

(4) TABLE-US-00002 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0  Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(5) The pH of the above composition B was approximately 3.5.

(6) Oxidizing Composition

(7) TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 2 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.5 Water to 100

(8) With the compositions of above a straight perming was conducted according to the process of the present invention. Caucasian hair of 25 cm length was obtained from Fischbach+Miller, Laupheim, Germany. The reducing composition A given above was applied onto hair after mixing with the composition B at a weight ratio of composition A to B 10:0.2 and processed for 20 minutes at room temperature. Then the composition was rinsed off from hair for 3 min and the hair was blow dried. Heat was applied to hair with a flat iron set to 180° C. with a total of three strokes per hair streak. Then the oxidizing composition C was applied and processed for 10 minutes at room temperature. The hair was then rinsed with water for 1 min (inventive process).

(9) For comparison purposes a similar process of above was applied to hair with the exception that composition B was replaced with an equal amount of water instead of composition B (comparative process).

(10) Evenness of perm was investigated on pre-damaged hair. Damage was conferred to hair by bleaching hair with a commercially available bleaching composition under the brand Goldwell. Then, the inventive and comparative process of above was applied to separate hair streaks and processed as described above. The result was recorded by measuring spreading of the hair streaks and calculation of a volume factor based on the spreading of hair at the root and at the tip parts. In other words, width of hair streaks were measured at their root and at their tips by placing the hair streaks on millimeter paper. A volume factor was calculated according to equation (1):

(11) $\begin{array}{cc}\mathrm{Volumefactor}=\frac{\mathrm{Width}\mathrm{at}\mathrm{hair}\mathrm{tips}\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}{\mathrm{Width}\mathrm{at}\mathrm{hair}\mathrm{root}\left[\mathrm{cm}\right]}& \mathrm{Equation}\left(1\right)\end{array}$

(12) Hair streaks before treatment displayed a volume factor of 1.1. As a result of the treatment, the hair treated according to the inventive process had a volume factor of 1.33, whereas the hair treated according to the comparative process had a volume factor of 2.23. In conclusion, the comparative process led to a much higher increase of hair volume which is definitively undesired by the customer as a result of a straightening process. The inventive process did not lead to such an increase.

(13) Damage reduction was investigated on virgin hair streaks which were processed three times with the inventive and comparative processes as described above. Stress-strain analysis was conducted with the hair streaks upon these treatments on 30 hair fibers.

(14) TABLE-US-00004 Measurement Inventive Process Comparative Process number Stress [MPa] Strain [%] Stress [MPa] Strain [%] 1 25.29 10 30.59 10 2 32.94 20 38.24 20 3 47.06 30 53.53 30 4 70.88 40 84.41 40 5 86.18 45 102.94 45

(15) The obtained data clearly showed that the hair streaks treated with the inventive process conferred the hair a much higher elasticity compared to the comparative process. For the inventive process less stress was needed to achieve a certain strain rate. This effect sustains over all investigated strain rates. Consequently the inventive process led to hair with much more desired cosmetic properties compared to the state-of-the-art process.

EXAMPLE 2

(16) Intermediate Composition

(17) TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Magnesium sulfate 10   Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Citric acid q.s. to pH 4.2 Water q.s. to 100  

(18) In the process disclosed with Example 1 above, the intermediate treatment composition was applied onto hair after treating hair with heat. The intermediate treatment composition was left on hair for 5 min and without rinsing it off, then the oxidizing composition was applied. The observed straight perming results with the Example 1 were confirmed.

(19) Similar results were obtained with the following compositions.

EXAMPLE 3

(20) The Composition B

(21) TABLE-US-00006 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 5.0 Malic acid 15.0  Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(22) The pH of the above composition was approximately 3.6.

EXAMPLE 4

(23) The Composition B

(24) TABLE-US-00007 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 EDTA tetrasodium salt 3.0 Malic acid 13.0  Lactic acid 4.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-10 0.1 Water to 100 pH 3.4 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 5

(25) The Composition B

(26) TABLE-US-00008 Component % by weight Monoethanolamine (MEA) 2.7 EDTA tetrasodium salt 5.0 Malic acid 15.0  Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Panthenol 0.1 Water To 100 pH 3.3 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 6

(27) The Composition B

(28) TABLE-US-00009 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Citric acid 5.0 Maleic acid 15.0  Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Behenamidopropyl 0.2 trimonium chloride Water to 100 pH 1.5 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 7

(29) The Composition B

(30) TABLE-US-00010 Component % by weight MEA 2.0 Lactic acid 15.0  Citric acid 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Polyquaternium-67 0.1 Water to 100 pH 2.7 ± 0.1

EXAMPLE 8

(31) The Composition A

(32) TABLE-US-00011 % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate (60%) 0.9 Cystein hydrochloride 5.7 Ammonium hydrogen carbonate 1.5 Acetylcystein 0.7 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 1,3- butylene gylcol 0.5 Amodimethicone 0.2 Fragrance 0.4 Ammonia, 25% ad pH 9.8 Water q.s. 100.0

(33) The Composition B

(34) TABLE-US-00012 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 4.0 Malic acid 17.0  Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition was 3.4.

EXAMPLE 9

(35) The Composition B (Powder)

(36) TABLE-US-00013 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 7.0 Malic acid 93.0

(37) 1 g of the composition above was added to the mixture of 30 g of composition A of Example 1. After mixing thoroughly, the resulting composition was applied onto hair which was already put under tension using curlers and rinsed off after leaving it on the hair for 30 min. The hair was applied the intermediate composition of the Example 2 above and after leaving it for 5 min on the hair without rinsing off, the oxidizing composition of Example 1 was applied and the curlers were removed after processing of the oxidizing agent for 5 min which was followed by further processing for 5 min and rinsing off the hair with water. Then the hair was dried. It was observed that hair was effectively and homogeneously curled and had its natural softness and elasticity.

EXAMPLE 10

(38) The Composition B

(39) TABLE-US-00014 % by weight EDTA monosodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0  Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.1.

EXAMPLE 11

(40) The Composition B

(41) TABLE-US-00015 % by weight EDTA disodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0  Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.2.

EXAMPLE 12

(42) The Composition B

(43) TABLE-US-00016 % by weight EDTA trisodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0  Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100 The pH of the above composition D is approximately 3.4.