COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS FOR A KERATIN MATERIAL
20210275429 · 2021-09-09
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61N1/30
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/817
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/4324
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61N1/0428
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61N1/325
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/83
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8182
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A45D19/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
A cosmetic treatment process for a keratin material, including placing the keratin material in contact with at least one cationic polymer with a molecular weight of between 500 and 5,000,000 daltons, and either simultaneously with or consecutively to the placing the keratin material in contact with said cationic polymer, an electric current is applied using at least one electrode for a time that is sufficient to deposit at the surface of the keratin material an effective amount of said cationic polymer.
Claims
1. A cosmetic treatment process for a keratin material, comprising: placing in the keratin material in contact with at least one cationic polymer with a molecular weight of between 500 and 5,000,000 daltons, and either simultaneously with or consecutively to placing the keratin material in contact with said cationic polymer, applying an electric current using at least one electrode for a time that is sufficient to deposit at the surface of the keratin material an effective amount of said cationic polymer, when electrically powered with a supply.
2. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the application of the current is performed with a mean current density at the surface of contact with the keratin materials of between 0.01 mA/cm.sup.2 rms and 1 mA/cm.sup.2 rms.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the current is applied for a time of between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.
4. The process as claimed in claim 1, comprising the simultaneous delivery of a continuous current and a pulsed current and the generation of a pulsed current stimulus with a mean current density on the surface of the keratin materials ranging from 0.05 mA/cm.sup.2 rms to 0.5 mA/cm.sup.2 rms, a pulse time ranging from 200 microseconds to 300 microseconds and a pulse frequency ranging from 100 Hz to 300 Hz.
5. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein current intensity is modified for the purposes of locally adjusting a given degree of deposition of the cationic polymers on a keratin material.
6. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein which the current intensity is modified as a function of location on the keratin materials, in which the keratin materials are hair and the current intensity is varied according to the location on the hair spanning from the root of the hair to the end of the hair.
7. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein which the current intensity is modified as a function of a locally detected characteristic, especially a color.
8. The process as claimed in claim 1, further comprising an additional step consecutive to the step of applying the electric current, the additional step comprising placing in contact of the deposited cationic polymers with the anionic form of an additional cosmetic active agent and/or care active agent, chosen especially from dyestuffs.
9. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer has a cationic charge density at least equal to 0.7, ranging from 0.9 to 7 meq/g.
10. The process as claimed in claim 1, comprising: a) the generation of a continuous current stimulus with a mean current density of between 0.01 mA/cm.sup.2 rms and 0.5 mA/cm.sup.2 rms; and b) the generation of a current stimulus, especially a unidirectional pulsed current with a mean current density of between 0.01 mA/cm.sup.2 rms and 10 mA/cm.sup.2 rms, a pulse time ranging from 10 microseconds to 500 microseconds; and a pulse frequency ranging from 10 Hz to 500 Hz, the continuous current and the pulsed current being applied for a time that is sufficient to deposit said cationic polymer on the surface.
11. A device for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, for the use of the treatment process as claimed in claim 1, when the device is electrically powered by a supply.
12. A kit comprising: a) a topical composition for caring for and/or washing keratin materials, comprising at least an effective amount of at least one cationic polymer with a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 5,000,000 daltons, and b) a device for treatment by applying an electric current, which is suitable for performing a process as claimed in claim 1, when the device is electrically powered by a supply.
Description
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0125] The invention may be understood better from reading the following detailed description of nonlimiting exemplary embodiments thereof and from studying the appended drawing, in which:
[0126]
[0127]
[0128]
[0129]
[0130]
[0131] The device 1 comprises, in the described example, a handle member 3 bearing a positively charged application electrode 5 intended to allow the application of an electric current to the keratin materials, when the device is electrically powered by a supply 10, and also the application and spreading of the cationic polymer C+ onto the surface of the keratin materials P to be treated.
[0132] In the described example, the device 1 comprises a composition reservoir 7 allowing the application electrode 5 to be supplied with the composition. This reservoir may be in the form of a removable cartridge. The use of several cartridges of different compositions is possible. Thus, the composition may be dispensed gradually as it is applied to the keratin materials, especially the skin P.
[0133] The device 1 also comprises a counterelectrode 9, which is attached to the handle member 3 of the device 1.
[0134] As a variant, the counterelectrode 9 is intended to be held in the user's other hand, then being separate from the handle member 3 of the device 1 as illustrated in
[0135] The embodiment illustrated in
[0136] Implementation examples for performing the process according to the invention on the hair H are illustrated in
[0137] In the embodiment of
[0138] In the embodiment of
[0139]
[0140]
[0141] The current density waveform is regulated about a constant value for the duration or a part of the iontophoresis treatment. A current density waveform regulated at a constant value is referred to as a continuous current, and the terms “constant current”, “galvanic current” and “continuous current” are interchangeable. The current density is defined by units in amperes per unit area (of the cross section of the active electrode).
[0142] Whereas
[0143]
[0144] In one embodiment, the pulse wave is expressed so as to present a duty cycle percentage. In one embodiment, the expression of a duty cycle percentage relative to a pulse wave means that the electric current is on for the duty cycle percentage. For example, a 50% duty cycle means that the electric current is on for 50% and off for 50% of the pulse cycle, a 30% duty cycle means that the electric current is on for 30% and off for 70% of the pulse cycle. In one embodiment, the duty cycle percentage of unidirectional pulses is 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 or any range between two values serving as limit points. In one embodiment, the duty cycle percentage of biphasic pulses is 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 or any range between two values serving as limit points. In one embodiment, the pulse, meaning the “on” period, may be expressed as a duration having time units. In one embodiment, the “off” period of the pulse may be expressed as a duration. In one embodiment, the frequency of a pulse will be expressed in hertz, meaning cycles per second. In one embodiment, the pulses may be inverted by alternating the polarities of the first and the second electrode between positive and negative. In one embodiment, the biphasic pulses, the alternating pulses, the bidirectional pulses and the inverted pulses have the same meaning. In one embodiment, negative current density pulses will be followed by positive current density pulses, without remaining at a minimum. A pulse waveform comprising current density pulses that are both positive and negative will comprise a maximum value for the negative pulses, a maximum value for the positive pulses and the values must not be identical. In addition, in one embodiment, the duration of the negative current density pulse must not be the same duration as a positive current density pulse. In one embodiment, the duration of the pulses must not have the same duration, independently of whether the pulses are negative or positive.
[0145] In one embodiment, a pulse waveform may combine two or more pulse waveforms. In one embodiment, a pulse waveform may comprise negative pulses followed by positive pulses, thus having a maximum amplitude and a minimum amplitude for the negative pulses and a maximum amplitude and a minimum amplitude for the positive pulses.
[0146] Whereas
[0147] In one embodiment, the pulse has a positive constant slope (different from the vertical) up to the maximum amplitude, followed by a time at the constant maximum amplitude, followed by a negative constant slope (different from the vertical) down to 0, followed by a time at 0. In one embodiment, the minimum may be other than 0. In one embodiment, the slope may be other than constant, for example exponential. In one embodiment of the current waveform of
[0148] In one embodiment of
[0149] In one embodiment of the current waveform of
[0150]
[0151] In one embodiment, the pulse is expressed so as to present a duty cycle percentage. In one embodiment, the expression of a duty cycle percentage relative to a pulse wave means that the electric current is on for the duty cycle percentage. For example, a 50% duty cycle means that the electric current is on for 50% and off for 50% of the pulse cycle, a 30% duty cycle means that the electric current is on for 30% and off for 70% of the pulse cycle. In one embodiment, the duty cycle percentage of unidirectional pulses is 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 or any range between two values serving as limit points. In one embodiment, the percentage of a respective biphasic pulse is 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95 or any range between any two values as limit points. In one embodiment, the pulse, meaning the “on” period, may be expressed as a duration. In one embodiment, the “off” period of the pulse may be expressed as a duration. In one embodiment, the pulse wave will be expressed in hertz, meaning cycles per second. In one embodiment, the pulses may be inverted by alternating the polarities of the first and the second electrode between positive and negative. In one embodiment, the biphasic pulses, the alternating pulses and the inverted pulses have the same meaning. In one embodiment, negative current density pulses will be followed by positive current density pulses, without remaining at a minimum. A pulse waveform comprising current density pulses that are both positive and negative will comprise a maximum value for the negative pulses, a maximum value for the positive pulses and the values must not be identical. In addition, in one embodiment, the duration of the negative current density pulse must not be the same duration as a positive current density pulse. In one embodiment, the duration of the pulses must not have the same duration, independently of whether the pulses are negative or positive.
[0152] In one embodiment, a pulse waveform may combine two or more pulse waveforms. In one embodiment, a pulse waveform may comprise negative pulses followed by positive pulses, thus having a maximum amplitude and a minimum amplitude for the negative pulses and a maximum amplitude and a minimum amplitude for the positive pulses.
[0153] Whereas
[0154] In one embodiment of
[0155] In one embodiment of
[0156] In one embodiment of the current waveform of
[0157] In one embodiment of the current waveform of
[0158] In one embodiment of
[0159] In one embodiment, the current waveforms of
[0160] In the case of the waveforms of
EXAMPLES
[0161] Various tests were performed in order to evaluate in vitro the capacity of iontophoresis to increase the attachment of cationic polymers according to the invention to bodily hairs or the skin.
[0162] To do this, compositions comprising two different cationic polymers were applied according to the protocols detailed below to samples of hairy pig ear skin (the term “sample” is used hereinbelow to denote them) measuring 2 cm×2 cm, cleaned beforehand using a shampoo, or on skin samples.
[0163] The two cationic polymers tested are: [0164] Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare® Polymer JR-400 sold by The Dow Chemical Company); and [0165] Polyquaternium-6 (Merquat® 100 sold by Lubrizol).
Example 1
[0166] A. Preparation and Treatment of the Bodily Hair Samples
[0167] a. Application of the Polymer
[0168] After cleaning the samples with shampoo, they are wetted with water, the excess water being removed manually.
[0169] The samples are then placed in a diffusion cell known as a Franz cell, and a magnetic stirrer is placed in the receptor compartment.
[0170] The edges of the donor and receptor compartments are then impregnated with a vacuum silicone (Rhodorsil silicones, Rhodia Siliconi) and the sample is placed between these compartments, the stratum corneum side of the sample facing the donor compartment.
[0171] Once the system has been attached using a clip, the receptor compartment is filled with 6 mL of an NaCl (150 mM)—HEPES (20 mM) pH 7.4 solution.
[0172] 0.2 g of test polymer is then added to the donor compartment, followed by gentle massaging for 30 seconds by finger to impregnate the hairs with the test polymer.
[0173] A further 0.2 g of the polymer formulation tested is added to the donor compartment.
[0174] b. Applied Treatment
[0175] Each polymer formulation tested is left either for 5 minutes or for 20 minutes on the sample at 37° C. with magnetic stirring (200 rpm).
[0176] Furthermore, in each of these situations and for each of the formulations tested, either the formulation applied is allowed to diffuse passively, or the sample is subjected to anodic iontophoresis (0.5 mA/cm.sup.2-0.39 mA).
[0177] The sample subjected to iontophoresis is connected by means of a salt bridge to a flask containing 150 mM of NaCl and 20 mM of a HEPES buffer at pH 7.4.
[0178] The electrodes are then placed in the appropriate compartments: the anode in the flask connected to the donor compartment and the cathode in the receptor compartment.
[0179] The electrodes are connected to a KEPCO BHK-MG 0-2000V current-generating device from the company KEPCO, Inc., Flushing, NY(USA).
[0180] The current density and its intensity are indicated above.
[0181] The following eight treatments are tested: [0182] composition with Polyquaternium-10 for 5 minutes without iontophoresis; [0183] composition with Polyquaternium-10 for 5 minutes with iontophoresis; [0184] composition with Polyquaternium-10 for 20 minutes without iontophoresis; [0185] composition with Polyquaternium-10 for 20 minutes with iontophoresis; [0186] composition with Polyquaternium-6 for 5 minutes without iontophoresis; [0187] composition with Polyquaternium-6 for 5 minutes with iontophoresis; [0188] composition with Polyquaternium-6 for 20 minutes without iontophoresis; [0189] composition with Polyquaternium-6 for 20 minutes with iontophoresis.
[0190] After 5 or 20 minutes, the samples are rinsed with running water while passing the fingers between the hairs 10 times for 10 seconds. The excess water is removed manually or with a hairdryer (10 minutes at 60° C.).
[0191] c. Revelation of the Samples
[0192] A solution of Red 80 dye is prepared and used for the revelation of the samples.
[0193] The dye Red 80 is a water-soluble polyazo dye of direct type comprising 6 sulfonate functions. These anionic sites make it possible to reveal the cationic compounds present on the fiber. Thus, at the end of the experiment, the efficiency of attachment of the cationic polymers will be proportional to the intensity of the red color observed on the hairs of the treated sample.
[0194] A first solution prepared comprises: [0195] 0.4665 g of Red 80 dye; [0196] 0.125 mL of glacial acetic acid; and [0197] a sufficient quantity (qs) of deionized water to make up to 100 mL.
[0198] The final solution applied to the samples comprises: [0199] 10.8 g of the Red 80 solution indicated above; and [0200] qs of deionized water to make up to 54 g.
[0201] Each of the samples mentioned above is immersed in 1 mL of this final solution for 5 minutes without stirring, along with a sample which has undergone the same steps as the samples discussed above, except that it has not been placed in contact with a cationic polymer (negative control).
[0202] The samples are then rinsed five times with deionized water. Between each rinse, the samples are soaked in this deionized water for 1 minute.
[0203] Once these rinses have been performed, the excess water is removed manually and the samples are dried with a hairdryer at 70° C. for 15 minutes, before being observed.
[0204] B. Results
TABLE-US-00001 Application time (min) Without iontophoresis With iontophoresis 5 3 5 20 4 7
[0205] Results Obtained with Polyquaternium-10
TABLE-US-00002 Application time (min) Without iontophoresis With iontophoresis 5 7 8 20 7 10
[0206] Results Obtained with Polyquaternium-6
[0207] The values indicated in the above tables correspond to scores evaluated by observation with the naked eye, on a color intensity scale ranging from 1 (virtually no color observed) to 10 (highly colored).
[0208] No attachment of the dye Red 80 is observed on the control samples not exposed to a cationic polymer. Consequently, the color observed for the other samples may be attributed to the deposition of these polymers onto the hairs.
[0209] No substantial deposition is observed with Polyquaternium-10 in the absence of iontophoresis, either after 5 or 20 minutes of treatment. Conversely, a significantly stronger slight color is clearly observed after 5 minutes, and especially after 20 minutes, of treatment with application of iontophoresis.
[0210] With Polyquaternium-6, a slight color is observed after 5 or 20 minutes in the absence of iontophoresis. However, a significantly stronger color is observed in both cases when the hairs have been subjected to iontophoresis.
[0211] Consequently, irrespective of the cationic charge of the cationic polymer used, an improvement in the attachment of this polymer to the hairs is observed when they are subjected to the application of the electric current when compared with a treatment in the absence of a current. This improvement is also significant on the homogeneity of the observed deposit.
[0212] Moreover, the more positively charged the cationic polymer used, the greater the improvement in attachment imparted by the step of applying the current.
Example 2
[0213] Skin samples are prepared and treated according to a methodology identical to that detailed in Example 1. These samples also consist, as indicated previously, of pig ear skin samples.
[0214] The results obtained are shown in the tables below:
TABLE-US-00003 Application time (min) Without iontophoresis With iontophoresis 5 5 5 20 5 5
[0215] Results Obtained with Polyquaternium-10
TABLE-US-00004 Application time (min) Without iontophoresis With iontophoresis 5 6 7 20 6 10
[0216] Results Obtained with Polyquaternium-6
[0217] The values indicated in the above tables correspond to scores evaluated by observation with the naked eye, on a color intensity scale ranging from 1 (virtually no color observed) to 10 (highly colored).
[0218] No attachment of the dye Red 80 is observed on the control samples not exposed to a cationic polymer. Consequently, the color observed for the other samples may be attributed to the deposition of these polymers onto the hairs.
[0219] No substantial deposition is observed with Polyquaternium-10 or Polyquaternium-6 in the absence of iontophoresis, either after 5 or 20 minutes of treatment. The skin is only slightly colored.
[0220] After treatment with application of iontophoresis, the behavior of Polyquaternium-10 on the skin is very different from that of Polyquaternium-6.
[0221] Specifically, no color difference is observed on the skin for Polyquaternium-10 after 5 minutes or 20 minutes of treatment with application of iontophoresis, relative to the color obtained in the absence of application of iontophoresis.
[0222] Conversely, a significantly stronger color is observed on the skin after 5 minutes or 20 minutes of treatment with application of iontophoresis for Polyquaternium-6, in particular after treatment of more than 5 minutes, in particular after a treatment of 20 minutes. This improvement is also significant on the homogeneity of the observed deposit.
[0223] These results confirm that the skin is much less negatively charged than the hairs. Results of post-treatment coloring with iontophoresis are thus indeed obtained, but with a polymer of the invention that is highly positively charged (Polyquaternium-6). A less positively charged polymer (Polyquaternium-10) thus has greater difficulty in being attached to a weakly negatively charged keratin material such as the skin during the application of the treatment with iontophoresis.