PVD-ALUMINUM PIGMENT DISPERSION AND COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

Abstract

This invention is directed to an effect pigment dispersion comprising a PVD-aluminum pigment, a leafing additive and an oil suitable for cosmetic skin care or color cosmetic applications, wherein a) the amount of the PVD-aluminum pigment is in a range of 8 to 30 wt.-%, b) the amount of the oil is in a range of 70 to 90 wt.-%, each based on the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion and c) the leafing additive is partly adsorbed on the surface of the PVD-aluminum pigment and partly an excess additive dissolved in the oil, wherein the amount of excess leafing additive is in a range of 0 to 25 wt.-%, based on the weight of PVD aluminum pigment. Further cosmetic skin care of color cosmetic formulations containing this effect pigment dispersion are described.

Claims

1. An effect pigment dispersion comprising a PVD-aluminum pigment, a leafing additive and an oil suitable for cosmetic skin care or color cosmetic applications, wherein a) the amount of the PVD-aluminum pigment is in a range of 8 to 30 wt.-%, b) the amount of the oil is in a range of 70 to 90 wt.-%, each based on the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion and c) the leafing additive is partly adsorbed on the surface of the PVD-aluminum pigment and partly present in an excess amount dissolved in the oil, wherein the excess amount is in a range of 0 to 25 wt.-%, based on the weight of PVD aluminum pigment.

2. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, further comprising a residual organic solvent present in an amount of less than 5 wt.-% of the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion.

3. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, further comprising a filler including any one or more of natural mica, synthetic mica, glass flakes, glass spheres, silica spheres, silica flakes, alumina spheres, alumina flakes, and talc.

4. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the sum of the weights of the PVD-aluminum pigment, the leafing additive, and the oil is at least 90 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion.

5. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the amount of PVD-aluminum pigment is in a range of 12.5 to 25 wt-% and the amount of the oil in a range of 75 to 87.5 wt.-%, each based on the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion.

6. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the leafing additive includes any one or more of: a) a phosphoric ester of the formula (I):
(R—O).sub.m—P(O)(OR.sup.1).sub.(3-m)   (I), b) a phosphoric acid ester of the general formula (II):
R—P(O)(OR.sup.2)(OR.sup.3)   (II) wherein m is 1 to 3 or any mixture thereof, R independently represent a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.8 to C.sub.20, R.sup.1 independently represent H or a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.6, wherein when m is 1, R.sup.1 are identical or different, and R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 independently represent H or a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.6, wherein R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 are identical or different, c) a fatty acid with the general formula (III)
R′—COOH   (III) wherein R′ is a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.12 to C.sub.26, or a mixture thereof, and d) an organofunctional silane according to formula (IV):
R″—Si(OR.sup.7).sub.3   (IV) wherein R.sup.7 is a linear of branched alkyl moiety with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, and R″ is a linear or branched alkyl or aryl moiety with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.8 to C.sub.24.

7. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein the leafing additive includes any one or more of: a) the phosphoric ester of the formula (I), wherein m is 1, 2, or a mixture thereof, R.sup.1 is H, and R independently represent a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.12 to C.sub.18, and b) the phosphonic acid ester of the formula (II), wherein R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 are H and R independently represent a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.10 to C.sub.18.

8. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the amount of aromatic compounds in the oil is less than 0.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of oil.

9. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the oil includes any one or more of: a) a triglyceride including fatty acid ester chains having average chain lengths ranging from C.sub.8 to C.sub.36, the fatty acid ester chains being any one or more of linear, branched, saturated, and unsaturated; b) a very high purity mineral oil, wherein the mineral oil includes hydrocarbon chains having an average length of at least 14 C-atoms; c) an alcohol other than glycerine or a hydrocarbon-based fatty ester originating from carboxylic acid and alcoholic components other than glycerol according to formula (V):
(R.sup.4(COO).sub.y).sub.xR.sup.5.sub.y   (V) wherein x is an integer from 1 to 6 representing the number of acidic groups for an alcoholic component with more than one OH-group, R.sup.4(COO) represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, wherein R.sup.4 independently represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain or a phenyl group, y is an integer from 1 to 3 representing the number of COOH groups of an original acidic component; R.sup.5 independently represent a hydrocarbon-based chain originating from the alcoholic component, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, which can comprise and comprising any one or more of a —CH.sub.2—O—CH.sub.2— ether unit, a PPG element, and a PEG element, the PPG element and PEG element being represented by the formula (VI):
(CH.sub.2CHR.sup.6—O).sub.n   (VI) wherein R.sup.6 independently represent H or CH.sub.3 and n is 1 to 10; d) a fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; e) a synthetic ether containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and f) a dialkyl carbonate having two identical or different alkyl chains.

10. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the PVD-aluminum pigment is a leafing pigment with planar surfaces.

11. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the PVD-aluminum pigment comprises an embossed structure with a period in a range from 5,000 to 20,000 lines per cm.

12-13. (canceled)

14. A method of producing an effect pigment dispersion, the method comprising: providing a leafing PVD-aluminum dispersion in an organic solvent, the dispersion comprising a PVD-aluminum pigment and a leafing additive, adding an oil suitable for cosmetic skin or color cosmetic applications to the PVD-aluminum dispersion, and removing the organic solvent, wherein the amount of the PVD-aluminum pigment is in a range of 8 to 30 wt.-%, the amount of the oil is in a range of 70 to 90 wt.-%, each based on the total weight of the dispersion, and the leafing additive is partly adsorbed on the surface of the PVD-aluminum pigment and partly present in an excess amount dissolved in the oil, wherein the excess amount is in a range of 0 to 25 wt.-%, based on the weight of PVD aluminum pigment.

15-16. (canceled)

17. A method of producing a cosmetic skin or color cosmetic formulation, the method comprising: preparing a phase A by mixing formulation ingredients, providing a phase B comprising an effect pigment dispersion, the effect pigment dispersion comprising a PVD-aluminum pigment, a leafing additive and an oil suitable for cosmetic skin care or color cosmetic applications, wherein the amount of the PVD-aluminum pigment is in a range of 8 to 30 wt.-%, the amount of the oil is in a range of 70 to 90 wt.-%, each based on the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion, and the leafing additive is partly adsorbed on the surface of the PVD-aluminum pigment and partly present in an excess amount dissolved in the oil, wherein the excess amount is in a range of 0 to 25 wt.-%, based on the weight of PVD aluminum pigment, mixing and homogenizing phase A and phase B to prepare a cosmetic formulation, and pouring or filling the cosmetic formulation into a container or packaging.

18. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1, further comprising a filler, wherein the sum of the weights of the PVD-aluminum pigment, the leafing additive, the oil, and the filler is at least 90 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the effect pigment dispersion.

19. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein R.sup.1 independently represent a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.3.

20. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 independently a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.3.

21. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein R′ is a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.14 to C.sub.24, or a mixture thereof.

22. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein R.sup.7 is a linear of branched alkyl moiety with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.3.

23. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein R.sup.7 is a linear of branched alkyl moiety with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.1 to C.sub.2.

24. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 6, wherein R″ is a linear or branched alkyl or aryl moiety with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.12 to C.sub.18.

25. The effect pigment dispersion according to claim 7, wherein the leafing additive includes the phosphonic acid ester of the formula (II), wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl with a carbon chain in a range of C.sub.12 to C.sub.16.

26. The method according to claim 14, wherein removing the organic solvent comprises removing the organic solvent under vacuum.

27. The method according to claim 17, wherein mixing and homogenizing phase A and phase B is performed at temperatures above 20° C. under low mechanical stress conditions.

28. A cosmetic skin care formulation comprising the effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1 and one or more of a binder and a film former.

29. A lip color formulation comprising a lip color cosmetic formulation including the effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1.

30. An eye color formulation comprising an eye color cosmetic formulation including the effect pigment dispersion according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0229] A Preparation of Leafing PVD-Aluminum Pigments:

Example 1a

[0230] In a thermostatic controlled 1 L reactor 300 g of Metalure A 41010 AE (commercially available dispersion of flat PVD-aluminum pigment in acetic acid ethyl ester (solid content 10 wt.-% with a D.sub.50 (Horiba LA-930)=9.5 μm to 10.5 μm, from ECKART GmbH)) were dispersed in 240 g acetic acid ethyl ester at a stirring rate of 200 rpm/min and were heated to 40° C. Subsequently 5.4 g phosphoric acid cetylester (CAS number: 3539-43-3, Hostaphat CC 100, Clariant) dissolved in 30 g acetic acid ethyl ester were added to the aluminum pigment dispersion. After 6 h of stirring under boiling solvent, the mixture was cooled down to room temperature. Finally, acetic acid ethyl ester was added to yield a final dispersion of 6 wt.-% of the PVD-aluminum pigment.

Example 2a

[0231] In a thermostatic controlled 1 L reactor 198 g of Silverdream Prismatic H-50550 (commercially available dispersion of embossed PVD-aluminum pigment in acetic acid ethyl ester, solid content 5 wt.-% with a D.sub.50 (Horiba LA-930)=about 50 μm, from ECKART America) were dispersed in 249 g acetic acid ethyl ester at a stirring rate of 200 rpm/min and were heated to 60° C. Subsequently 3 g phosphoric acid cetylester (CAS number: 3539-43-3, Hostaphat CC 100, Clariant) dissolved in 20 g acetic acid ethyl ester were added to the aluminum pigment dispersion. After 6 h of stirring at 60° C. the mixture was cooled down to room temperature. Finally, acetic acid ethyl ester was added to yield a final dispersion of 5 wt.-% of embossed PVD-aluminum pigment.

[0232] B Preparation of PVD-Aluminum Pigment Dispersions in Cosmetic Oil:

Examples 3-15 and Comparative Examples 16 to 24

[0233] 80 g of an oil according to table 2 were added to 322 g of the dispersion of Example 1a and homogenized. Subsequently the solvent was evaporated under vacuum (about 100 mbar). The temperature was raised continuously during this process until a final temperature of about 50 to 60° C. was reached. The residual amount of solvent was in a range of 2 to 4 wt.-%. Finally a dispersion with about 20 wt.-% of aluminum pigment in the respective oil was obtained. The mirror effect of these dispersions was evaluated by the method described in the next section and the results are depicted in tables 2 and 3.

Examples 25 to 37 and Comparative Examples 38 to 46

[0234] 80 g of an oil according to table 2 were added to 400 g of the dispersion of Example 2a and homogenized. Subsequently the solvent was evaporated under vacuum (100 mbar). The temperature was raised continuously during this process until a final temperature of about 50 to 60° C. was reached. The residual amount of solvent was in a range of 2 to 4 wt.-%. Finally a dispersion with about 19.5 wt.-% of aluminum pigment in the respective oil was obtained. The diffractive effect of these dispersions was evaluated by the method described in the next section and the results are depicted in table 2.

[0235] The oils used were the same for Example 3 and 17, for Example 4 and 18 and so on.

[0236] C Test methods of Mirror Effect:

[0237] C.1 Mirror Like Effect of Oil Dispersion

[0238] The optical properties of the dispersion of all examples based on the flat PVD-aluminum pigments of Example 1a were evaluated by visual appearance in a beaker using the following grading scale: [0239] 1: dull and grey appearance [0240] 2: dull and slightly silver appearance [0241] 3: silver appearance with certain brilliancy [0242] 4: good brilliancy [0243] 5: mirror like effect with high brilliancy.

[0244] All Examples noted as 5 or 4 are scored to fulfill the desired properties of optical appearance of the pigments of this invention. As viscosities are very different between the different oils, with a direct impact on a common drawdown application, the evaluation by visual appearance of the pure dispersion was used. A very good mirror effect was attributed to the undisturbed formation of the leafing effect of the PVD-aluminum pigment in the cosmetic formulation.

[0245] For all Examples based on the diffractive PVD-aluminum effect pigment of Example 2a, the visual appearance of the diffractive effect of the oily dispersion was evaluated in a beaker. Here the scale starts from [0246] 1: no diffractive effect [0247] 2: slight diffractive effect [0248] 3: good diffractive effect [0249] 4: high diffractive effect with brilliancy [0250] 5: extremely high diffractive effect with brilliancy.

[0251] All Examples noted here as 5, 4 or 3 are scored to fulfill the desired properties of optical appearance of the pigment of this invention.

[0252] C.2 Mirror Like Effect in Final Formulation/Application

[0253] The optical properties of the final formulation were evaluated by visual appearance. In case of a flat PVD-aluminum pigment the scale started from 1 (dull and grey appearance) to 5 (mirror like effect with high brilliancy). All examples noted as 5 or 4 were better than present state-of-the-art. In case of a diffractive PVD-aluminum pigment the scale started from 1 (dull appearance, no diffractive effect) to 5 (extremely high diffractive effect). All examples noted as 5 to 3 were better than present state-of-the-art. As the mirror effect can be affected by the surface of the packaging, the cosmetic application was applied to the skin, spread using a spatula and then evaluated according to the upper mentioned scale. A very good mirror effect was attributed to the formation of the leafing effect of the PVD-aluminum pigment in the cosmetic formulation applied on the skin.

[0254] The results of the cosmetic formulations are shown in table 13.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Mirror effect and diffractive effect for Examples of PVD- aluminum effect pigment dispersions in cosmetic oils. Diffractive Mirror Effect in Effect in dispersion dispersion for for flat diffractive Examples Oil pvd-pigment pvd-pigment 3 and 25 Isononyl 5 5 Isononanoate 4 and 26 Alkyl benzoate 5 4 5 and 27 Paraffinum Liquidum 5 4 (Ewanol 204) 6 and 28 Paraffinum 4 3 subliquidum (Jäkelchemie)) 7 and 29 Isohexadecane 5 4 8 and30 Isopropyl myristate 5 4 9 and 31 Isopropyl palmitate 5 4 10 and 32 Hydrogenated 5 4 Polyisobutene 11 and 33 Capric/Caprylic 4 3 Triglyceride 12 and 34 Pentaerythritol 4 3 Tetraisostearate 13 and 35 Octyldodecanol 4 3 14 and36 Isostearyl 4 3 isostearate 15 and 37 Castor oil 4 3

Comparative Examples

[0255]

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Mirror effect and diffractive effect for Comparative Examples of PVD-aluminum effect pigment dispersions in cosmetic oils. Diffractive Effect in dispersion for Comparative Mirror Effect diffractive Example Oil in dispersion pvd-pigment Comparative Glycerine > 85% 5, but 5, but 16 and 38 pigment did pigment did not disperse not disperse homogeneously homogeneously and built a and built a mirror on the mirror on the top due to top due to incompatibility incompatibility with glycerine. with glycerine 17 and 39 Isopropanol * 3 2 18 and 40 Isododecane 2 1 19 and 41 Caprylyl Methicone 1 1 20 and 42 C12-C15 Alkyl 3 2 Benzoate, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Propylene Carbonate 21 and 43 Hydrogenated 3 2 Polyisobutene, Ethylene/Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/ Styrene Copolymer 22 and 44 Isohexadecane with 1 1 5-20% Garamite 23 and 45 Cyclopentasiloxane 1 1 24 and 46 Dimethicone 1 1 * Here a dispersion of PVD pigment in isopropanol (METALURE A 41010 IL, Eckart America) was used originally to produce the leafing PVD pigment according to Example 1a. No additional oil was added.

[0256] The cosmetic oils used in the Examples of table 2 generally yielded very good (5) or good (4) results with respect to the gloss observed in the beaker the dispersion was filled in. The gloss can be attributed to a pronounced leafing-effect. Generally, the Examples with a diffractive PVD-pigment seemed to be a little bit weaker in the appearance compared to the Examples using flat PVD-pigments.

[0257] Comparative Examples 16 and 38 using glycerine as cosmetic oil were not satisfying in the sense that the leafing PVD-aluminum pigments did not mix with glycerine and built a mirror on the top of the liquid. Such phase separated mixtures cannot be used in practice as semi-finished effect pigment dispersion for cosmetic uses.

[0258] Isopropanol, used in Comparative Examples 17 and 39, is merely a solvent and not a cosmetic oil and also did not lead to a good gloss effect. All Comparative Examples using siloxane-based cosmetic oils (Comp. Examples 19, 41, 23, 45 24 and 46) yielded bad results. Here, the leafing-effect is assumed to be destroyed because of the very low surface tension of these unpolar oils.

[0259] In Comparative Examples 22 and 44 the cosmetic oil additionally contained a filler based on a delaminated silicate platelets. These kind of fillers do have an adverse effect on the gloss, as here the leafing properties of the PVD aluminum pigment are again destroyed. In Comparative Examples 18 and 44 isododecane was used as oil. It is assumed that this cosmetic oil is too unpolar

[0260] D Preparation of Different Skin Care or Color Cosmetic Applications:

[0261] The following Examples for cosmetic skin care or color cosmetic applications were formulated. Usually the PVD-pigment dispersion of Example 3 was used in the inventive Examples.

Example 47: Gloss Cream Eye Shadow

[0262]

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt % A Octyldodecanol Emollient Tegosoft G20 10 Isostearyl Emollient Schercemol 1818 6 Isostearate Bis-Diglyceryl Skin Softisan 649 10 Polyacyladipate-2 Conditioning Agent, Emollient Octyldodecyl Emollient Ceraphyl 847 5 Stearoyl Stearate Bees Wax Wax, Ewacera 12 10 Stiffening Agent Isopropyl Skin Ewalan IO 8 Lanolate Conditioning Agent, Emollient Tocopheryl Antioxidant dl-alpha-Tocopheryl 1 Acetate Acetate B Synthetic Filler Synafil S 1050 (Eckart 5 Fluorphlogopite GmbH) Aluminum Powder Effect Leafing aluminum 45 (and) Isononyl Pigment pigment dispersion Isononanoate Dispersion according to Example 3 Sum: 100

[0263] Phase A was made by adding the appropriate amounts of the components mentioned above and heated under stirring to 85° C. Phase B was made by adding and homogenizing the appropriate amount of a synthetic mica as a filler (Synafil S 1050 from Eckart GmbH) to the dispersion obtained from Example 3. Subsequently Phase B was added slowly to phase A at 85° C. and both phases were homogenized and then poured into an appropriate container and cooled down to room temperature.

Example 48: Body Oil

[0264]

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt.-% A Caprylic/Capric Emollient Tegosoft CT 25.0 Triglyceride Ethylhexyl Emollient Cetiol 868 22.5 Stearate Isopropyl Emollient Isopropylpalmitate 20.0 Palmitate Dicaprylyl Emollient Cetiol CC 7.0 Carbonate Tocopherol Antioxidant Copherol F 1300 0.5 C B Aluminum Powder Effect Leafing aluminum 25.0 (and) Isononyl Pigment pigment dispersion Isononanoate Dispersion according to Example 3 Sum: 100.0

[0265] Phase A was made similar to Example 47. No synthetic fluorphlogopite was added in phase B as a filler. After homogenization of phase A, phase B was added slowly and homogenized. Finally, the mixture was poured into an appropriate container and cooled down to room temperature.

Example 49: Lip Cream with Low Viscosity

[0266]

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt.-% A Isohexadecane Emollient Isohexadecane 51 B Pentaerythritol Emollient Crodamol PTIS- 8 Tetraisostearate LQ-(MV) Beeswax Wax, Kahlwax 8138 3 Stiffening Agent Isononyl Emollient Wickenol 151 6 isononanoate Glyceryl Dibehenate Wax, Compritol 888 CG 6 (and) Tribehenin Stiffening Pellets (and) Glyceryl Agent Behenate Caprylyl Glycol Preservative Lexgard O 1 C Aluminum Powder Effect Leafing aluminum 25 (and) Isononyl Pigment pigment dispersion Isononanoate Disperison according to Example 3 Sum: 100

[0267] Phase A was heated under stirring to 80° C. and subsequently Phase B was added slowly. After homogenization phase C was added and again homogenized.

Example 50: Lip Gloss

[0268]

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt.-% A Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Gelled Versagel ME 1600 55 (and) Ethylene/Propylene/ Emollients Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient Labrafac CC 8 Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate Film Silshine 151 7 Former Caprylyl Methicone Conditioning Silsoft 034 5 Agent B Almuminum powder (and) Effect Leafing aluminum 25 Isononyl Isononanoate Pigment pigment dispersion Dispersion according to Example 3 Sum: 100

[0269] This formulation was made in the same way as Example 47, except that no synthetic fluorophlogopite was added in phase B as a filler.

Comparative Example 51a and b: Gloss Cream Eye Shadow (to Example 47)

[0270]

TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 8 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt.-% A Octyldodecanol Emollient Tegosoft G20 10 Isostearyl Emollient Schercemol 6 Isostearate 1818 Bis-Diglyceryl Skin Softisan 649 10 Polyacyladipate-2 Conditioning Agent, Emollient Octyldodecyl Emollient Ceraphyl 847 5 Stearoyl Stearate Bees Wax Wax, Ewacera 12 10 Stiffening Agent Isopropyl Lanolate Emollient Ewalan IO 8 Tocopheryl Acetate Antioxidant dl-alpha- 1 Tocopheryl Acetate B Synthetic Filler Synafil S 5 Fluorphlogopite 1050 (Eckart GmbH) Aluminum Powder Effect Visionaire 45 (and) Silica Pigment Splendid Silver Sea (Eckart GmbH) Sum: 100

[0271] This formulation was made in the same way as Example 47, but a conventional commercially available aluminum pigment (Visionaire Splendid Silver Sea) for cosmetic industry was used instead of the PVD pigment of Example 1a. In Comp. Example 43a the pigment was used as produced (non-leafing) and in Comp. Example 43b a leafing treatment similar as in Example 1a was made.

Comparative Example 52: Lip Cream with Garamite (to Example 49)

[0272]

TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 9 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt.-% A Isohexadecane Emollient Isohexadecane 41 B Quaternium-90 Thickener, Garamite- 7 Sepiolite (and) Stabilisation 7308 XR Quaternium-90 Agent Montmorillonite Pentaerythritol Emollient Crodamol 8 Tetraisostearate PTIS-LQ-(MV) Beeswax Wax, Kahlwax 8138 3 Stiffening Agent Isononyl isononanoate Emollient Wickenol 151 6 Glyceryl Dibehenate Wax, Compritol 888 5 (and) Tribehenin (and) Stiffening CG Pellets Glyceryl Behenate Agent Caprylyl Glycol Preservative Lexgard O 1 Hydrogenated Gelled Versagel ME 4 Polyisobutene (and) Emollients 750 Ethylene/Propylene/ Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/ Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer C Aluminum Powder (and) Effect Leafing 25 Isononyl Isononanoate Pigment aluminum Dispersion pigment dispersion according to Example 3 Sum: 100

[0273] This formulation was made in the same way as Example 49, except that additionally Garamite-7308 XR was added to phase B as thickener.

Comparative Example 53: Gel-to-Powder

[0274]

TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 10 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt.-% A Cyclopentasiloxane Emollient Xiameter 46.4 PMX-0245 Quaternium-90 Thickener, GARAMITE- 0.8 Sepiolite (and) Stabilisation 7308 XR Quternium-90 Agent Montmorrillonite Polysilicone-11 Mattifier, Gransil 4.0 (and) Laureth-12 Sensory EP-LS Agent B Cyclopentasiloxane Mattifier, GI CD-10 14.0 (and) Sensory Stearoxymethicone/ Agent Dimethicone Copolymer (and) Dimethicone Isododecane (and) Mattifier, Gransil 14.0 Polysilicone-11 Sensory PC-12 Agent C Aluminum Powder Effect Leafing 20.0 (and) Isononyl Pigment aluminum Isononanoate Dispersion pigment dispersion according to Example 3 D Phenoxyethanol, Preservative Euxyl PE 0.8 Ethylhexylglycerin 9010 Sum: 100.0

[0275] Phase A and phase B were homogenized in separate containers. Subsequently phase B was added to phase A under stirring and the pH was adjusted to 6.5 with a citric acid solution (10 wt.-%). Subsequently phases C and D were added slowly and the formulation was homogenized and filled into a suitable container.

[0276] This formulation proved to be not suitable, as the leafing effect did not develop in powder form.

Comparative Example 54: Gloss Cream Eye Shadow with Solvent Based PVD Dispersion (to Example 47)

[0277]

TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 11 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt % A Octyldodecanol Emollient Tegosoft G20 5 Isostearyl Emollient Schercemol 3 Isostearate 1818 Bis-Diglyceryl Skin Softisan 649 5 Polyacyladipate-2 Conditioning Agent, Emollient Octyldodecyl Emollient Ceraphyl 847 2 Stearoyl Stearate Bees Wax Wax, Ewacera 12 5 Stiffening Agent Isopropyl Emollient Ewalan IO 4 Lanolate Tocopheryl Antioxidant dl-alpha- 0.5 Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate B Synthetic Filler Synafil S 1050 2 Fluorphlogopite (Eckart GmbH) Aluminum Effect Leafing aluminum 72.5 Powder (and) Pigment pigment dispersion Ethyl Acetate Dispersion according to (and) Cetyl Example 1a phosphate Sum: 100

[0278] This formulation was made in the same way as Example 47, except that instead of Example 3, the commercially available PVD-aluminum dispersion (Metalure A-41010 AE, Eckart America) in ethyl acetate treated with Hostaphat CC was used (see Example 1a).

[0279] The formulation was extremely soft and it etched and softened the packaging, which was made from a plastic typically used for such kind of formulations, in an undesirable manner. The solvent brought into the formulation with the PVD dispersion smelled strongly.

[0280] Thus, this formulation was not suitable as a gloss cream eye shadow.

Comparative Example 55: Lip Gloss with Solvent Based PVD Dispersion (to Example 50)

[0281]

TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 12 Components and their ratios of the formulation Phase INCI Name Component Product Name wt % A Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Gelled Versagel ME 35 (and) Ethylene/Propylene/ Emollients 1600 Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollients Labrafac CC 5 Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate Film Former Silshine 151 4 Caprylyl Methicone Skin Silsoft 034 3 Conditioning Agent B Almuminum powder (and) Effect Pigment Leafing 53 (and) Ethyl Acetate (and) Cetyl Disperison aluminum phosphate pigment dispersion according to Example 1a Sum: 100

[0282] This formulation was made in the same way as Example 50, except that instead of Example 3, a commercially available PVD-aluminum dispersion (Eckart America) in ethyl acetate treated with Hostaphat CC according to the procedure of Example 1a was used.

[0283] An extremely strong mirror effect developed after application to the lips. However, the formulation has an extremely liquid consistency and after pouring the formulation into the container this plastic material was immediately attacked by the formulation. Furthermore, the lip gloss exhibited an undesired strong smell due to the organic solvent.

TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 13 Results of Mirror effect on skin applications Kind of cosmetic Mirror effect formulation on skin Example 47 Gloss cream Very Good 5 Eye shadow 48 Body Oil Very good 5 49 Lip cream Very good 5 without Garamite low viscosity 50 Lip Gloss Very good 5 Comparative Examples 51a Gloss cream Very bad 1 Eye shadow 51b Gloss cream Very bad 1 Eye shadow 52 Lip cream Very bad 1 with garamite 53 Gel-to-powder Bad 2 54 Cream eye Satisfying 3 shadow with solvent based PVD dispersion 55 Lip gloss with Very good 1 solvent based PVD dispersion

[0284] All the Examples 47 to 50 exhibited a very good mirror effect with high gloss and a high brilliance, which indicates a well-developed leafing effect of the PVD aluminum pigments.

[0285] Comparative Examples 51a and b are, like Example 47, a gloss cream eye shadow, but Visionaire Splendid Silver Sea (Eckart GmbH) used here is a conventional aluminum pigment which has not been produced by a PVD process. Therefore, the mirror effect is essentially not present compared to Example 47. Interestingly no significant difference in the optical properties was observed between using the non-leafing pigment (51a) or the pigment after leafing treatment (51b).

[0286] In Comparative Example 52 the lip cream formulation contained Garamite-7308 XR, a thickener based on delaminated silicates. The mirror effect turned out to be very poor, especially when compared to Example 49. Such kind of thickeners have a strong impact on the viscosity of the formulation. They can easily increase the viscosity to such extent, that a good orientation of the effect pigment is no longer possible.

[0287] Comparative Example 53 was a gel-to-powder formulation. Here a good gloss and therefore a good leafing effect was observed in the formulation, but not in the application on the skin. The reason is probably, that during the application the gel transforms to a powder which did not have enough liquid components to develop the leafing effect of the PVD aluminum pigment.

[0288] Comparative Example 54 had at least a satisfying leafing effect in the skin application, but the disadvantages mentioned above like bad smell and attacking the container material due to the organic solvent make this Comparative Example not suitable for a commercial product.

[0289] The same argumentation applies for Comparative Example 55, although here the mirror effect in the lip application was very good.