EMULSION COMPRISING A SILICONE RESIN, A LIQUID POLYOL AND PIGMENTS, PREPARATION OF THE EMULSION, AND PROCESS USING SAME

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of water; at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one silicone resin; at least one non-volatile silicone oil, at least one liquid C.sub.2-C.sub.8, preferably C.sub.2-C.sub.6, polyol at least one pigment, optionally at least one volatile oil, in a content such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than or equal to 1. The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition, in which at least a portion of the pigment(s) is used in a form predispersed in at least one polyol, optionally in the presence of water and optionally in the presence of at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxyl, preferably ethoxyl, units; the predispersion being used during the process for preparing the composition or added thereto. The invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring in particular for the lips, the skin, more particularly the cheeks, in which the above mentioned composition is applied.

Claims

1: A cosmetic composition, comprising: at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of water; at least 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one silicone resin; at least one non-volatile silicone oil, at least one liquid C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol, at least one pigment, optionally at least one volatile oil, in a content such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than or equal to 1.

2: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a water content of between 10% and 70% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

3: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone resin is chosen from: silicone resins of MQ type of formula [(R1).sub.3SiO.sub.1/2].sub.x(SiO.sub.4/2).sub.y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, silicone resins of T type of formula (RSiO.sub.3/2).sub.x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally comprising Si—OH end groups, resins of MQT type comprising the following units: (i) (R1.sub.3SiO.sub.1/2).sub.a (ii) (R2.sub.2SiO.sub.2/2).sub.b (iii) (R3 SiO.sub.3/2).sub.c and (iv) (SiO.sub.4/2).sub.d with R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, a, b, c and d being mole fractions, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a+b+c+d=1, on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R3 of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

4: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said silicone resin is present in a content of between 10% and 45% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

5: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxylated.

6: The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the polyalkoxylated alcohol comprises from 8 to 26 carbon atoms and comprising from 15 to 200 alkoxylated units.

7: The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein the content of polyalkoxylated alcohol(s) represents from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

8: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the liquid polyol is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyols, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

9: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of liquid polyol represents from 0.05% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

10: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone resin is used in powder form; in a form conveyed in a solvent, or in a form emulsified in water.

11: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils and non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, optionally containing a dimethicone fragment.

12: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil(s) are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; non-volatile phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment and mixtures thereof.

13: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) represents from 2% to 35% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

14: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one first non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from: a. C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; b. optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters and triesters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated; c. esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or more C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids; in a content of less than 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

15: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of volatile oil(s) is less than 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

16: The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, the content of volatile oil(s) is such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 1.

17: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one second polar or apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in a content such that the non-volatile silicone oil(s)/second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 1.

18: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8, other than the alcohols comprising from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxy units.

19: The cosmetic composition according to claim 18, wherein the nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, poly(oxyethylenated) C.sub.8-C.sub.30 monoesters or polyesters; saturated or unsaturated poly(oxyethylenated) C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alcohols; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated, C.sub.8-C.sub.30 monoesters or polyesters of sorbitan; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 monoethers or polyethers of sorbitan; alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides; saturated or unsaturated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 monoesters and polyesters of sucrose; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 monoesters and polyesters of glycerol; polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated saturated or unsaturated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 monoethers or polyethers of glycerol; and mixtures thereof a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

20: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant chosen from alkali metal, amine or alkanolamine salts of fatty acids, in a content of not more than 2.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

21: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer, chosen from homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof; copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide; homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers; vinyl polymers; optionally modified polymers of natural origin; alginates and carrageenans; mucopolysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

22: The cosmetic composition according to claim 21, wherein the content of hydrophilic thickener is between 0.01% and 1.5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

23: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigments are chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and also lakes alone or as mixtures.

24: The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein it may be prepared using at least a portion of the pigment(s) in a form predispersed in at least one liquid C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol, optionally in the presence of water and optionally in the presence of at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxyl units.

25: A process for preparing a composition according to claim 1, wherein at least a portion of the pigment(s) is used in a form predispersed in at least one polyol, optionally in the presence of water and optionally in the presence of at least one polyalkoxylated alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, comprising at least 15 alkoxyl, units; the predispersion being used during the process for preparing the composition or added thereto.

26: A process for making up and/or caring for the skin comprising applying the composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES 1

[0468] The compositions whose ingredients are listed in tables A and B below are prepared (the percentages are expressed as weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

[0469] A. Composition Free of Colouring Species (White Base)

TABLE-US-00001 Ingredients (INCI name) Weight % Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60-LQ-(MV) from Croda) 4.5 Sodium dehydroacetate (Tristat SDHA FCC/NF 0.5 from TRI-K) Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0.5 (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) Silicone resin (trimethyl siloxysilicate (and) 46.8 isododecane: X-21-5616 from Shin-Etsu; in a silicone resin/isododecane weight ratio of 60/40) Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone (Belsil PDM 21 1000 from Wacker) Water qs 100%

[0470] B. Pigmentary Compositions

TABLE-US-00002 A1 A2 B1 B2 Ingredients (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) (weight %) Red 7 (CI 15850) 15 15 15 15 Propylene glycol — — 5 — Glycerol — — — 5 Butylene glycol 5 5 — — Isoceteth 20 (Brij ® IC20 3 — — — from Croda) Ceteareth 33 (Simulsol ® — 3 3 3 CS, SEPPIC) Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100%

[0471] Procedures

[0472] 1. Preparation of the Pigmentary Compositions

[0473] The pigment is mixed with the polyol (butylene glycol, propylene glycol or glycerol) with stirring using a Speedmixer machine (two times 3 minutes, 3500 rpm).

[0474] Independently, the water is heated to 60° C. with the surfactant (isoceteth-20 or ceteareth-33), with stirring.

[0475] Once the surfactant has dissolved, the mixture comprising the pigment obtained previously is added to this mixture. Mixing is performed by stirring, with the heating switched off. The stirring is continued for 10 to 15 minutes.

[0476] 2. Preparation of the Composition Free of Colouring Species

[0477] The water and the preserving agent are mixed and the polysorbate 60 is then added, with stirring, at 50° C., using a deflocculator, until the mixture is homogeneous, and the heating is stopped.

[0478] The thickening polymer is then added with stirring until the mixture has thickened without lumps of gels.

[0479] The silicone resin and the isododecane are then poured slowly onto the mixture obtained previously, while increasing the stirring speed, and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.

[0480] Finally, the trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone is added slowly and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.

[0481] 3. Preparation of the Coloured Composition

[0482] Five compositions are prepared by mixing the dye-free composition with each of the pigmentary compositions, in a weight ratio such that the content of Red 7 pigment represents 0.5% by weight of the final composition (95% by weight of the dye-free composition; 3.33% by weight of the pigmentary composition and made up to 100% by weight with water).

[0483] Evaluation of the Compositions

[0484] Direct, homogeneous, stable emulsions are obtained each time (centrifugation for 1 hour at 900×g).

[0485] For each composition, no pigments are visible to the naked eye and good pigment dispersion is obtained.

[0486] The compositions apply easily to the lips.

[0487] When the compositions are applied to the cheeks, a comfortable, non-tacky, coloured deposit is obtained.

[0488] The gloss of the deposits obtained immediately after application of the compositions is satisfactory.

[0489] The deposits are fresh, very thin and comfortable, without any sensation of dryness, and with little or no tack.

[0490] Finally, they show good persistence of the colour on the lips and good transfer resistance.

Protocol for Measuring the Tack:

[0491] The composition is deposited in several stainless steel dishes 100 μm deep and is levelled off as quickly as possible. The dishes are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.

[0492] The apparatus used is a TAXT2i texturometer. The clip mounted on the apparatus grips an AU4G cylinder 6 mm in diameter at the end of which is attached a smooth beige-coloured end piece made of synthetic skin, which has the same diameter and is 2 mm thick.

[0493] The end piece is cleaned with ethanol between each measurement.

[0494] Several measurements are never taken at the same place of the deposit.

[0495] The parameters of the compression tests with maintenance over time are indicated below:

TABLE-US-00003 Approach speed 1 mm/s (or pre-speed) Speed (starting from 0.1 mm/s detection of the contact) Force (and corresponding 0.283N (i.e. 0.01 MPa) pressure) Maintenance time 3 s Withdrawal speed 0.1 mm/s (or post-speed)

[0496] The tackiness is characterized by the separation force measured during the pressure reduction (pull phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This force is expressed positively in joules per square metre.