MELTING MASSAGE BAR

Abstract

A personal care cosmetic composition; its method of manufacture; and its method of use are disclosed.

Claims

1. A personal care cosmetic composition comprising: a solid butter; a semi-solid butter; an oil; and a fatty alcohol.

2. The personal care composition of claim 1, wherein the personal care composition is solid at room temperature.

3. The personal care composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one additional component selected from the group consisting of natural actives, binders, colorants, extracts, fillers, fragrances, opacifiers, and mixtures thereof.

4. The personal care composition of claim 1, wherein the personal care composition is employed as a massage bar.

5. A method comprising contacting the skin of a user with the personal care composition of claim 1.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein said method is employed to massage said user.

7. The method of claim 5, wherein said method is employed to moisturize said user's skin.

8. The method of claim 5, wherein said method is employed to replenish and rejuvenate said user's skin.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0042] FIG. 1 shows different size melting massage bars tested by consumers for size preference data.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Definitions

[0043] A “butter” includes oils extracted from a natural source that are often used as an emollients.

[0044] A “fatty alcohol” is a straight-chain primary alcohol that is derived from natural fats and oils. Examples include cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. Additional examples appear in Table 1 below.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Branches/ Name Carbon Atoms Saturation Formula tert-Butyl alcohol  4 carbon atoms branched C4H10O tert-Amyl alcohol  5 carbon atoms branched C5H12O 3-Methyl-3-pentanol  6 carbon atoms branched C6H14O 1-Heptanol  7 carbon atoms C7H16O (enanthic alcohol) 1-Octanol  8 carbon atoms C8H18O (capryl alcohol) Pelargonic alcohol  9 carbon atoms C9CH20O (1-nonarol) 1-Decanol 10 carbon atoms C10H22O (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol) Undecyl alcohol 11 carbon atoms C11H24O (1-undercanol, undecanol, Hendecanol) Lauryl alcohol 12 carbon atoms C12H26O (dodecanol, 1-dodecanol) Tridecyl alcohol 13 carbon atoms C13H28O (1-tridecanol, tridecanol, Isotridecanol) Myristyl alcohol 14 carbon atoms C14H30O (1-tetradecanol) Pentadecyl alcohol 15 carbon atoms C15H32O (1-pentadecanol, pentdecanol) Cetyl alcohol 16 carbon atoms C16H34O (1-hexadecanol) Palmitoleyl alcohol 16 carbon atoms unsaturated C16H32O (cis-9-hexadecen-1-ol) Heptadecyl alcohol 17 carbon atoms C17H36O (1-n-heptadecanol, heptadecanol) Stearyl alcohol 18 carbon atoms C18H38O (1-octadecanol) Oleyl alcohol 18 carbon atoms unsaturated C18H38O (1-octadecenol) Nonadecyl alcohol 19 carbon atoms C19H40O (1-nonadecanol) Arachidyl alcohol 20 carbon atoms C20H42O (1-eicosanol) Henelcosyl alcohol 21 carbon atoms C21H44O (1-henelcosanol)) Behenyl alcohol 22 carbon atoms C22H46O (1-docosanol) Erucyl alcohol 22 carbon atoms unsaturated C22H50O (cis-13-doccsen-1-ol) Lignoceryl alcohol 24 carbon atoms C24H44O (1-tetracosanol) Ceryl alcohol 26 carbon atoms C26H54O (1-hexacosanol) 1-Heptacosanol 27 carbon atoms C27H56O Montanyl alcohol, 28 carbon atoms C28H580 cluytyl alcohol, or 1-octacosanol 1-Nonacosanol 29 carbon atoms C29H60O Myricyl alcohol, 30 carbon atoms C30H62O mellssyl alcohol, or 1-triacontanol 1-Dotriacontanol 32 carbon atoms C32H66O (Lacceryl alcohol) Geddyl alcohol 34 carbon atoms C34H70O (1-tetratriacontanol)

[0045] Perferred fatty alcohols are listed below:

TABLE-US-00002 Fatty Alcohol Carbon Chain Length Melting Point cetyl alcohol 16 49° C. behenyl alcohol 22 70° C. cetearyl alcohol blend of cetyl (16) and 50° C. stearyl (18) stearyl alcohol 18 59° C. olely alcohol 18 (double bond) 13-19° C. decyl alcohol 10 6.4° C. isostearyl alcohol 18 (branched) 0° C. lauryl alcohol 12 24° C. myristyl alcohol 14 38° C. arachidyl alcohol 20 65° C.

[0046] “Flash freezing” is the process of freezing an item quickly at an extremely low temperature.

[0047] An “oil” is a substance that at ambient temperature is a viscous, flowable liquid and has both hydrophobic and lipophilic properties. An example of an oil is Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil.

[0048] An example of an oil is sunflower seed oil, which is defined according to the ratios of its fatty acid components: linoleic acid constitutes approximately 60% of the oil, which also contains oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and linolenic acid. Linoleic acid has been shown to be a necessary fatty acid to maintain normal barrier function of the epidermis.

[0049] A “semi-solid” is a substance that at ambient temperature is in a state between a solid and a liquid; it conforms to a shape when pressure is applied to it; and it has the ability to flow under pressure (e.g., it is spreadable). An example of a semi-solid is Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, a “semi-solid butter”.

[0050] A “solid” is a substance that at ambient temperature has structural rigidity and does not change shape or volume; and is not liquid or fluid. An example of a solid is Theobroma Cacao (cocoa) seed butter, a “solid butter”.

[0051] A “wax” is a complex mixtures of alcohols, fatty acids and esters. It is harder, less greasy and more brittle than fats, and are very resistant to moisture, oxidation and microbial degradation.

[0052] Examples of waxes include beeswax, candelilla, carnauba and polyethylene waxes.

[0053] Embodiments of the present invention will now be described by way of example.

EXAMPLES

Examples 28A and 28B

[0054]

TABLE-US-00003 Ingredient Amount (wt %) Beaker A White cocoa butter 70 Shea butter 20 Rice wax 2.5 Sunflower oil 7.5 Total 100 Beaker B White cocoa butter 70 Shea butter 20 Beeswax 2.5 Sunflower oil 7.5 Total 100 [0055] 1. Add white cocoa butter and rice wax to beaker A. Add white cocoa butter and beeswax to beaker B. [0056] 2. Add heat to both beakers and mix. [0057] 3. After each solution is uniformly mixed and melted, turn off heat. [0058] 4. Add shea butter and sunflower oil to each beaker. [0059] 5. Mix at high speeds for 2 minutes. [0060] 6. Pour mixtures into molds, flash freeze. (Samples remained in the freezer for 2 days).

[0061] Observations

[0062] Bar A—In hand, was dry and strong, bar did not compress under pressure. When applied to skin, bar applied like a light balm. Very moisturizing after feel.

[0063] Bar B—In hand, was dry and very strong, bar did not compress under pressure. When warmed in hands, a light oil was applied to skin and was spreadable. Moisturizing after feel.

[0064] Although these formulas meet the aesthetic requirements, they would be too expensive to manufacture/sell due to the high level of cocoa butter.

Examples 42A and 42B

[0065] A—Attempt to decrease formula cost by decreasing percent weight of cocoa butter. Structural agent here is beeswax.

[0066] B—Attempt to decrease formula cost by decreasing percent weight of cocoa butter. Structural agent here is beeswax and cetyl alcohol.

TABLE-US-00004 Ingredient Amount (wt %) Beaker A White cocoa butter 60 Shea butter 20 Sunflower oil 10 Beeswax 10 Total 100 Beaker B White cocoa butter 60 Shea butter 20 Sunflower oil 10 Beeswax 5 Cetyl alcohol 5 Total 100 [0067] 1. Add white cocoa butter and beeswax to beakers A and B. Add cetyl alcohol to beaker B. [0068] 2. Add heat to both beakers. [0069] 3. Once materials are melted, add shea butter. [0070] 4. Mix until liquid homogeneous solution. [0071] 5. Add sunflower oil. [0072] 6. Mix at high speeds for 1 minute. Turn off, stir immediately. [0073] 7. Pour mixtures into molds, flash freeze for 2 hours.

[0074] Observations

[0075] Both structures cracked when being removed from molds. Structures were too weak to assess.

Examples 43A and 43B

[0076]

TABLE-US-00005 Ingredient Amount (wt %) Beaker A White cocoa butter 65 Shea butter 15 Sunflower oil 10 Cetyl alcohol 10 Total 100 Beaker B White cocoa butter 60 Shea butter 15 Sunflower oil 10 Cetyl alcohol 15 Total 100 [0077] 1. Add white cocoa butter and cetyl alcohol to beakers A and B. [0078] 2. Add heat to both beakers. [0079] 3. Add shea butter. [0080] 4. Heat and mix until uniform liquid mixtures. [0081] 5. Add sunflower oil. [0082] 6. Mix at high speeds for 1 minute. Turn off, stir immediately. [0083] 7. Pour mixtures into molds, flash freeze for 2 hours. (left in freezer for 18 hours; ice shadings formed and fell into molds)

[0084] Observations

[0085] A—In hand study, slight melt in hand; melted very quickly on application; bar started to slip in hand; structure very strong.

[0086] B—Bar to oil; melts quickly on skin but not too melty in hand; very spreadable oil; feels light and moisturizing; structure very strong.

[0087] This example shows that the structure could hold up with solely cetyl alcohol in the formula.

Example 44

[0088]

TABLE-US-00006 Ingredient Amount (wt %) White cocoa butter 60 Shea butter 15 Sunflower oil 5 Cetyl alcohol 20 Total 100 [0089] 1. Add white cocoa butter and cetyl alcohol to beaker. [0090] 2. Heat and mix until uniform liquid solution. [0091] 3. Add shea butter. Turn off heat. [0092] 4. Add sunflower oil. Immediately pour mixture into molds. Flash freeze for 2 hours. [0093] 5. Remove molds from freezer and calibrate to room temperature.

[0094] Observations

[0095] In hand, not melty, dry, smooth. On application, melts quickly, residue is a thick oil, but not too oily. After feel is very soft and moisturizing.

[0096] Increased cetyl alcohol still upheld the structure of the bar and created a “creamy”/“moisturizing” feel to the product.

Example 47

[0097]

TABLE-US-00007 Ingredient Amount (wt %) White cocoa butter 60 Shea butter 15 Sunflower oil 10 Beeswax 15 Total 100 [0098] 1. Add white cocoa butter and beeswax to beaker. [0099] 2. Heat and mix until uniform liquid solution. [0100] 3. Add shea butter. Mix until uniform liquid solution. Turn off heat. [0101] 4. Add sunflower oil. Mix at high speeds for 1 minute. Immediately pour mixture into molds. Flash freeze for 2 hours. [0102] 5. Remove molds from freezer and calibrate to room temperature.

[0103] Observations

[0104] Bar cracked in molds. Unable to evaluate.

[0105] Incorporating beeswax as a structuring agent in amounts similar to the amounts of cetyl alcohol resulted in a prototype that did not maintain structure.

Example 58

[0106]

TABLE-US-00008 Ingredient Amount (wt %) White cocoa butter 60 Behenyl alcohol 20 Shea butter 15 Sunflower oil 5 Total 100 [0107] 1. Add white cocoa butter and behenyl alcohol to beaker. [0108] 2. Add heat. [0109] 3. Once mixture is melted, turn off heat and add shea butter. [0110] 4. Mix until uniform liquid solution. [0111] 5. Add sunflower oil. Mix at high speeds for 1 minute. Immediately pour mixture into molds. Flash freeze.

[0112] Observations

[0113] Structure was very strong. No fracturing with pressure in hand. The bar was dry, smooth. On skin, it melted slowly, bar to light oil; very glossy; almost balmy. Skin felt very moisturized after application.

[0114] Behenyl alcohol is another member of the fatty alcohol family. This formula had great structure and still felt creamy and moisturizing n the skin.

Example 59

[0115]

TABLE-US-00009 Ingredient Amount (wt %) White cocoa butter 60 Ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol 20 Shea butter 15 Sunflower oil 5 Total 100 [0116] 1. Add white cocoa butter and ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol to beaker. [0117] 2. Add heat. [0118] 3. Once mixture is melted, turn off heat and add shea butter. [0119] 4. Mix until uniform liquid solution. [0120] 5. Add sunflower oil. Mix at high speeds for 1 minute. Immediately pour mixture into molds. Flash freeze.

[0121] Observations

[0122] Structure in hand felt strong, no fracturing under pressure. Bar was glossy, shiny. Bar melted slowly upon application. Bar melted to light oil/balm. Skin felt very moisturized after skin application.

[0123] Formulation with the blend ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol this formulation still upheld structure and maintained the creamy, moisturizing aesthetic.

[0124] Summary of Results

[0125] Formulations were tested to determine acceptability. Results are presented in Table 2 below, wherein (+) denotes acceptable; (−) denotes not acceptable.

TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 2 Sample Feel in No. Ingredients (%) Hand Melt Time Skin Apn Aft Feel Struct Price  5 Cocoa (43%) + + + + − +  Shea (22%) Canola (20%)  Candella (15%)    17B  Shea (30%) + + − − + + Kokum (10%)  Coconut (40%)   Candella (5%)     Bees (15%)  18B  Shea (10%) − + − − − + Kokum (30%)  Coconut (40%)   Candella (5%)     Bees (15%)  22B Cocoa (50%) + − − + + −  Shea (20%) Mango (5%)   Coconut (10%)   Candella (15%)    28A Cocoa (70%) + + + + + −  Shea (20%) Sunflower oil (7.5%)     Rice wax (2.5%)   28B Cocoa (70%) + + + + + −  Shea (20%) Sunflower (7.5%)     Bees (2.5%)  42A Cocoa (60%) Unable to Unable to Unable to Unable to − +  Shea (23%) evaluate evaluate evaluate evaluate Sunflower oil (11.5%)    Beeswax (5.5%)    42B Cocoa (60%) Unable to Unable to Unable to Unable to − +  Shea (20%) evaluate evaluate evaluate evaluate Sunflower oil (10%)     Beeswax (5%)    Cetyl alcohol (5%)      43A Cocoa (65%) + − + + + +  Shea (15%) Sunflower oil (10%)     Cetyl alcohol (10%)      43B Cocoa (60%) + + + + + +  Shea (15%) Sunflower oil (10%)     Cetyl alcohol (15%)      44 Cocoa (60%) + + + + + +  Shea (15%) Sunflower oil (5%)      Cetyl alcohol (20%)     47 Cocoa (60%)  Unable to Unable to Unable to Unable to Unable to +  Shea (15%) evaluate evaluate evaluate evaluate evaluate Sunflower oil (10%)      Beeswax (15%)     58 Cocoa (60%)  + + + + + + Shea butter (15%)    Sunflower oil (5%)       Behenyl alcohol (20%)      591 Cocoa (60%)  + + + + + + Shea butter (15%)    Sunflower oil (5%)       Ceteareth-20, cetearyl alcohol (20%)

[0126] For ease of reference, a summary of the “type” of ingredients in the formulas tested is presented in Table 3 below.

TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 3 A B C D E INCI Synthetic Candelilla Behenyl Cetemyl Cetyl Kokum Cocoa White Shea Coconut Sunflower Name Beeswax Wax Alcohol Alcohol Alcohol butter Butter Cocoa Butter Oil Oil Butter *A-wax, B-fatty alcohol, C-solid butter, D-semi solid butter, E-oil *all numbers are weight percent .sup.1 Preferred formula.

[0127] Ratios of the various types of ingredients and associated results are presented in Table 4 below.

TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 4 Formula A:B:C:D:E % Fatty Number Ratios Alcohol 22B 0:0:80:15:5 0 28B 2.5:0:70:20:7.5 2.5 42A 5.5:0:60:23:11.5 0 42B 5:5:60:20:5 5 43A 0:10:65:15:10 10 43B 0:15:60:15:10 15 44 0:20:60:15:5 20 47 15:0:60:15:10 0 58 0:20:60:15:5 20 59 0:20:60:15:5 20

[0128] The following Examples were employed in a consumer use study to determine preference of form.

[0129] Prototype 1: Bar to Cream Module

Example 44

[0130]

TABLE-US-00013 Trade Name INCI % w/w SMA Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) 60 Seed Butter Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol 0 Biochemica Shea Butyrospermum Parkii 15 Butter Refined (Shea) Butter Sunflower Oil Refined Helianthus Annuus 5 (Sunflower) Seed Oil TOTAL: 100

[0131] Prototype 2: Bar to Oil Module

Example 43B

[0132]

TABLE-US-00014 Trade Name INCI % w/w SMA Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao 60 (Cocoa) Seed Butter Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol 15 Biochemica Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii 15 Refined (Shea) Butter Sunflower Oil Refined Helianthus Annuus 10 (Sunflower) Seed Oil TOTAL: 100

[0133] Prototype 3: Bar to Balm Module

Example 94C

[0134]

TABLE-US-00015 SMA Cocoa Butter Theobroma Cacao 55 (Cocoa) Seed Butter Lanette 16 Cetyl Alcohol 20 Biochemica Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii 10 Refined (Shea) Butter Synthetic Beeswax Pastilles Synthetic Beeswax 7.5 SP-772P Sunflower Oil Refined Helianthus Annuus 7.5 (Sunflower) Seed Oil TOTAL: 100

[0135] Preferably, the personal care composition comprises: [0136] cocoa butter; [0137] shea butter; [0138] sunflower oil; and [0139] cetyl alcohol.

[0140] Depending on desired traits, the personal care composition may comprise the following ingredients (Example 44): [0141] 60% cocoa butter; [0142] 15% shea butter; [0143] 5% sunflower oil; and [0144] 20% cetyl alcohol. [0145] Results in a “butter to cream” type formula.

[0146] The personal care composition may also comprise the following ingredients (Example 43A): [0147] 65% cocoa butter; [0148] 15% shea butter; [0149] 10% sunflower oil; and [0150] 10% cetyl alcohol. [0151] Results in a Butter to oil type formula.

[0152] It will be understood that, while various aspects of the present disclosure have been illustrated and described by way of example, the invention claimed herein is not limited thereto, but may be otherwise variously embodied according to the scope of the claims presented in this and/or any derivative patent application.

REFERENCES

[0153] (1) 16 Jan. 2019, Society of Cosmetic Chemists. “What Is the Stratum Corneum and Its Importance in Skin Care?” Cosmetics Business, 2016, www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/What_is_the_stratum_corneum_and_its_importance_in_skin_care/143839. [0154] (2) “Clean Beauty.” Google Trends, Google, trends.google.com/trends/?geo=US. [0155] (3) Gunstone, F. D. Fatty Acid and Lipid Chemistry. Springer, 2012. [0156] (4) “How to Take Care of Your Skin: Understanding the Skin Barrier.” AYR SKIN CARE, ayrskincare.com/blog/how-to-take-care-of-your-skin-understanding-the-skin-barrier/. [0157] (5) Lencki, Robert W., and R. John Craven. “Negative Pressure Induced Cavity Formation During Cocoa Butter Crystallization.” SpringerLink, Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 3 Jul. 2013, link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs11746-013-2294-0. [0158] (6) Karagounis et al., Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil, Pediatric Dermatology, 2019; 36:9-15 [0159] (7) Lin et al., Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils, Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2018, 19, 70. [0160] (8) Cizinauskas et al., Fatty acids penetration into human skin ex vivo: ATOF-SIMS analysis approach, Biointerphases 12(1), March 2017.