Process for treating keratin fibres with a pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound

11045407 · 2021-06-29

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Inventors

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International classification

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibres of a cosmetic composition comprising a pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound. The process makes it possible to obtain good cosmetic properties in terms of manageability of the hair and sheen, with a long-lasting effect.

Claims

1. A process for protecting or conditioning bleached, artificially dyed, relaxed and/or permanent-waved keratin fibers, the process comprising: applying to the bleached, artificially dyed, relaxed and/or permanent-waved keratin fibers a cosmetic conditioning composition comprising a pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I) or salts thereof: ##STR00004## wherein: R1 and R2, independently, are chosen from OH, OR′, —NH2, —NHR′, or —NR′R″, wherein R′ and R″, independently, are chosen from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C18 alkyl, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from OH, C1-C6 alkoxy, C1-C6 acyloxy, amino, (C1-C6)alkyloxycarbonyl, (C1-C6)alkylamino, or C6-C10 aryl, wherein applying the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I) comprises applying the cosmetic conditioning composition comprising the compound of formula (I) in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic conditioning composition; and heating the keratin fibers with an iron at a temperature of at least 170° C. after applying the cosmetic conditioning composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I), and wherein the cosmetic conditioning composition does not comprise oxidized polysaccharides.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein R1 and R2, independently, are chosen from OH or OR′.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein R′, independently, is chosen from a linear or branched, saturated C1-C12 or C1-C6 alkyl, optionally substituted with at least one OH, C1-C4 alkoxy, C1-C4 acyloxy, (C1-C4)alkyloxycarbonyl, (C1-C4)alkylamino, or phenyl.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I) is chosen from: ##STR00005## ##STR00006##

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the heating step is performed at a temperature ranging from 170° C. to about 250° C.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the heating step is performed at a temperature ranging from 170° C. to about 200° C.

7. The process according to claim 1, further comprising drying the keratin fibers after the application of the cosmetic conditioning composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I), and before the step of heating the keratin fibers performed at a temperature of at least 170° C.

8. The process according to claim 7, wherein the drying is performed at a temperature ranging from about 20° C. to about 70° C.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein after application to the keratin fibers of the cosmetic conditioning composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I), and before heating the keratin fibers, the applied cosmetic conditioning composition is left on for a time ranging from about 1 to about 60 minutes.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process is performed on hair.

11. The process according to claim 1 performed on hair, wherein the heating is performed by applying a straightening iron, in a substantially continuous movement from the root to the end of the hair, in at least one pass.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic conditioning composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I) further comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

13. A process for improving the manageability and/or sheen of bleached, artificially dyed, relaxed and/or permanent-waved keratin fibers, the process comprising: applying to the bleached, artificially dyed, relaxed and/or permanent-waved keratin fibers a cosmetic composition comprising a pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I) or salts thereof: ##STR00007## wherein: R1 and R2, independently, are chosen from OH, OR′, —NH2, —NHR′, or —NR′R″, wherein R′ and R″, independently, are chosen from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C18 alkyl, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from OH, C1-C6 alkoxy, C1-C6 acyloxy, amino, (C1-C6)alkyloxycarbonyl, (C1-C6)alkylamino, or C6-C10 aryl, wherein applying the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I) comprises applying the cosmetic composition comprising the compound of formula (I) in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and heating the keratin fibers with an iron at a temperature of at least 170° C. after applying the cosmetic composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I), and wherein the cosmetic composition does not comprise oxidized polysaccharides.

14. The process according to claim 13, further comprising at least one of: drying the keratin fibers after the application of the cosmetic composition comprising the pyridinedicarboxylic acid compound of formula (I); or leaving the applied cosmetic composition on the keratin fibers for a time ranging from about 1 to about 60 minutes.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) Locks of sensitized type II frizzy hair were used (bleaching SA 20%). The composition to be evaluated is applied at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of locks. Each composition evaluated was applied to three locks.

(2) Compositions Prepared

(3) TABLE-US-00001 Compositions A X Y diethyl 2,4-pyridinedicarboxylate 5 Water/ethanol (50/50 weight/weight) qs 100 qs 100 Water qs 100

(4) Composition A was applied to locks of hair and then left on for 15 minutes at 40° C.

(5) The locks were dried manually and then dried under a hood for 15 minutes at 60° C. The application of composition A was thus repeated five times in total, without rinsing, and, at the end of the treatment, shampooing was performed according to the following protocol:

(6) The treated locks were washed with an aqueous solution containing 15% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate at a rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair, at a temperature of 38° C.

(7) Moisten the lock for 5 seconds with water. Apply the shampoo, massaging the lock from the root to the end for 15 seconds. Rinse with water for 10 seconds. Dry manually. Dry the locks for 10 minutes per gram of hair at 60° C. with a hairdryer.

(8) For comparative purposes, the same protocol was also performed on locks with, on the one hand, a placebo composition X and, on the other hand, composition Y containing only water (control lock).

(9) The cosmetic properties of the locks after shampooing were then evaluated, especially the manageability of the locks and the sheen of the hair.

(10) The following results were obtained:

(11) TABLE-US-00002 Cosmetic properties Type of lock of hair after shampooing Sensitized type II hair treated with Dull, unmanageable lock composition (Y) (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized type II hair treated with Duller, less manageable lock placebo composition (X) (Lock 2) Sensitized type II hair treated with Shinier, more manageable lock composition (A) (Lock 3)

(12) The locks of hair were then classified as a function of their cosmetic properties (manageability, sheen) after having been shampooed.

(13) TABLE-US-00003 After shampooing Lock 3 > Lock 1 > Lock 2

(14) Lock 3 treated via the process according to the invention, and after having been shampooed, has better cosmetic properties in terms of manageability and sheen. These cosmetic properties thus have good persistence on shampooing.

EXAMPLE 2

(15) Locks of sensitized type II frizzy hair were used (bleaching SA 20%). Composition A was applied to locks of hair and then left on for 15 minutes at 40° C.

(16) The locks were dried manually and then dried under a hood for 15 minutes at 60° C.

(17) The locks were combed before applying a straightening iron at a temperature of 180° C. by performing five continuous passes through the locks for 5 seconds.

(18) For comparative purposes, the same protocol was also performed on locks with, on the one hand, a placebo composition X and, on the other hand, composition Y containing only water (control lock).

(19) To evaluate the durable (persistent) nature of the cosmetic properties of the locks of hair, they were then washed with a shampoo according to the protocol described previously.

(20) The cosmetic properties of the locks after shampooing was then evaluated, especially the soft feel, the manageability and shaping of the locks and the sheen of the hair.

(21) The following results were obtained:

(22) TABLE-US-00004 Cosmetic properties Type of lock of hair after shampooing Type II natural hair treated with Coarse feel; dull, composition (Y) (control) + iron unmanageable lock (Lock 11) Type II natural hair treated with Coarser feel; dull, more placebo composition (X) + manageable lock iron (Lock 12) Type II natural hair treated with Softer feeling, more composition (A) + iron (Lock 13) manageable lock, sheen improved. Better shaping

(23) The locks of hair were then classified as a function of their cosmetic properties (soft, pleasant cosmetic feel, manageability, shaping and sheen) after having been shampooed.

(24) TABLE-US-00005 After shampooing Lock 13 > Lock 11 > Lock 12

(25) Lock 13 treated via the process according to the invention, and after having been shampooed, has better cosmetic properties in terms of soft feel, manageability and shaping, and also sheen. These cosmetic properties thus have good persistence on shampooing.