Topical cosmetic composition for restructuring and protecting hair and scalp, and uses thereof

Abstract

A topical cosmetic composition is described for restructuring and protecting hair and scalp, as well as products for hair and scalp care involving the same.

Claims

1. A topical cosmetic composition comprising 30-95% by weight of an active component in restructuring and protecting hair and scalp, by restoring disulphide bonds which are broken on damaged hair and scalp, said active component comprising a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least two Michael acceptor compounds, and 5-30% by weight of at least one linker, based on the weight of said active component and said at least one linker; wherein said at least two Michael acceptor compounds are sorbic acid and shikimic acid; and wherein said at least one linker comprises an amino moiety, and is selected from the group consisting of lysine, arginine, cysteine, selenocysteine, glutamine, asparagine, ethylenediamine, propane-1,3-diamine, hexamethylene diamine, ornithine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; and wherein said at least one acyclic terpene is selected from the group consisting of myrcene, ocimene, farnesene, squalene, phytoene, phytofluene, farnesol and lycopene.

2. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said at least one acyclic terpene is squalene.

3. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one catalyst, and comprising up to 50% by weight of said active component, said at least one catalyst, and said at least one linker, based on the composition weight.

4. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said at least one catalyst comprises proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof.

5. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said at least one acyclic terpene is in a concentration up to 45% by weight on the weight of said active component, said at least one catalyst, and said at least one linker.

6. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said at least two Michael acceptor compound are in a concentration up to 60% by weight on the weight of said active component, said at least one catalyst, and said at least one linker.

7. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said at least one catalyst is in a concentration up to 60% by weight on the weight of said active component, said at least one catalyst, and said at least one linker.

8. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said at least one linker is in a concentration up to 35% by weight on the weight of said active component, said at least one catalyst, and said at least one linker.

9. The topical cosmetic composition of claim 1, comprising 40-70% by weight of said mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least two Michael acceptor compounds, 20-40% by weight of at least one catalyst, said at least one catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof, and 10-20% by weight of said at least one linker, based on the weight of said active component, said at least one catalyst, and said at least one linker.

10. A product for hair and scalp care comprising the topical cosmetic composition of claim 1, said product being lotion, milk, mousse, gel, cream, shampoo, conditioner, compress, mask, oil, emulsion o/w, emulsion w/o, silicone emulsion, multiple emulsion, microemulsion, hydro-alcoholic solution, hydro-glyceric solution, ointment, lipogel, paste, stick, cream-gel, or a combination thereof.

11. A cosmetic method for restructuring and protecting hair and scalp, said method comprising applying to hair or scalp the topical cosmetic composition of claim 1.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

(1) The characteristics and the advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following detailed description, from the working examples provided for illustrative and non-limiting purposes, and from the annexed FIG. 1 wherein:

(2) FIG. 1A shows the surface of destructured hair before any restructuring treatment,

(3) FIG. 1B shows the surface of hair treated with the composition of Example 6, and

(4) FIG. 1C shows the surface of hair treated with placebo.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

(5) The invention therefore relates to the cosmetic use of an acyclic terpene as an active agent in restructuring and protecting hair and scalp, in topical cosmetic compositions.

(6) Particularly, with “topical cosmetic composition” it is meant a cosmetic composition to be topically applied and for external use.

(7) It has surprisingly found that, as it will be clear from the Examples provided herein below, said acyclic terpene advantageously allows to protect the hair and scalp structure, while effectively reconstituting and repairing the same, wherever damaged.

(8) In fact, damaged hair and scalp show on their surface free —SH groups, deriving from the breaking of disulphide bonds. Said groups are among the most powerful nucleophilic entities with which said at least one acyclic terpene interacts, through the so-called thiol-ene click reaction.

(9) Particularly, said acyclic terpene is a C10-C40 hydrocarbon acyclic terpene.

(10) Suitable C10-C40 hydrocarbon acyclic terpenes are myrcene, ocimene, farnesene, squalene, and lycopene. It is believed that each hydrocarbon acyclic terpene molecule advantageously reacts with tiol groups bridging them together.

(11) Preferably said acyclic terpene is squalene.

(12) In another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising 1) an active component in restructuring and protecting hair and scalp, said active component comprising at least one acyclic terpene.

(13) Particularly, said acyclic terpene is a C10-C40 hydrocarbon acyclic terpene.

(14) Suitable C10-C40 hydrocarbon acyclic terpenes are myrcene, ocimene, farnesene, squalene, phytoene, phytofluene, farnesol, and lycopene.

(15) Preferably said acyclic terpene is squalene, phytoene, or phytofluene.

(16) More preferably, said at least one acyclic terpene is squalene.

(17) In preferred embodiments, said active component is in a concentration up to 75 wt % on the composition weight.

(18) Preferably, in the topical cosmetic composition of the invention, said active component further comprises at least one Michael acceptor compound.

(19) Michael's reaction is a nucleophilic addition reaction, involving a donor species (powerful nucleophile) and an accepting species (e.g. an unsaturated alpha-beta carbonyl compound). As mentioned, damaged hair and scalp have free —SH groups on their surface, resulting from the breaking of the disulphide bridges. Said groups are among the most powerful nucleophiles, thus acting as Michael donors.

(20) With the term “Michael acceptor”, it is meant a cosmetically acceptable unsaturated alpha-beta carbonyl compound, including, for the purposes of the present invention, also its salts, all polymorphic forms, both amorphous and crystalline, and co-crystalline, as well as the anhydrous, hydrate and solvate forms.

(21) Preferably, said Michael acceptor compound has formula (I):

(22) ##STR00001##

(23) wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 are, independently of one another, hydrogen, or a linear, branched, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic moiety selected from C1-C10 alkyl, C1-C10 substituted alkyl, C2-C10 alkenyl, C2-C10 substituted alkenyl, C4-C10 dienyl, C4-C10 substituted dienyl, C2-C10 alkynyl, C2-C10 substituted alkynyl, phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, substituted heteroaryl, halogen, hydroxy, C1-C10 alkoxy, C1-C6 substituted alkoxy, phenoxy, substituted phenoxy, aroxy, substituted aroxy, C1-C10 alkylthio, C1-C10 substituted alkylthio, phenylthio, substituted phenylthio, arylthio, substituted arylthio, cyano, isocyano, substituted isocyano, carbonyl, C1-C6 substituted carbonyl, carboxy, C1-C6 substituted carboxy, amino, C1-C6 substituted amino, amido, C1-C6 substituted amido, sulfonyl, C1-C6 substituted sulfonyl, sulphonic acid, phosphoryl, C1-C6 substituted phosphoryl, phosphonyl, C1-C6 substituted phosphonyl, polyaryl, substituted polyaryl, C3-C20 cycloalkyl, C3-C20 substituted cycloalkyl, C3-C20 heterocycloalkyl, C3-C20 substituted heterocycloalkyl, C2-C10 cycloalkenyl, C2-C10 substituted cycloalkenyl, C4-C10 cyclodienyl, C4-C10 substituted cyclodienyl, or amino acid, or R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a 5-8 membered ring or a substituted 5-8 membered ring.

(24) With “substituted”, it is meant bound to at least a halogen, hydroxy, C1-C4 alkyl, carboxy, or combinations thereof.

(25) In preferred embodiments, in said at least one Michael acceptor compound of formula (I), when R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are hydrogen, R.sub.3 is not hydroxy, C1-C10 alkoxy, amino.

(26) In other preferred embodiments, in said at least one Michael acceptor compound of formula (I), when R.sub.1 is hydrogen and R.sub.2 is hydroxy, R.sub.3 is not carboxy or C1-C6 substituted carboxy.

(27) In preferred embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I), wherein:

(28) R.sub.1 is a linear moiety selected from those listed above, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, or

(29) R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a substituted 5-7 membered ring, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, or

(30) R.sub.1 is hydrogen, R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and R.sub.2 is C3-C20 cycloalkyl, C3-C20 substituted cycloalkyl, C3-C20 heterocycloalkyl, C3-C20 substituted heterocycloalkyl, C2-C10 cycloalkenyl, C2-C10 substituted cycloalkenyl, C4-C10 cyclodienyl, or C4-C10 substituted cyclodienyl, or

(31) R.sub.1 is phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, or substituted heteroaryl, R.sub.2 is hydrogen, and R.sub.3 is phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, or substituted heteroaryl.

(32) Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is a linear C2-C10 alkenyl, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, or at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a 6-membered ring substituted with at least one hydroxy, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy.

(33) In some particularly preferred embodiments, said at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) is sorbic acid or a salt thereof.

(34) In other particularly preferred embodiments, said at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) is octatrienoic acid or a salt thereof.

(35) In other particularly preferred embodiments, said at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) is shikimic acid or a salt thereof.

(36) Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is hydrogen, R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and R.sub.2 is C2-C10 cycloalkenyl, C2-C10 substituted cycloalkenyl, C4-C10 cyclodienyl, or C4-C10 substituted cyclodienyl.

(37) In some particularly preferred embodiments, said at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) is chorismic acid or a salt thereof.

(38) Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, or substituted heteroaryl, R.sub.2 is hydrogen, and R.sub.3 is phenyl, substituted phenyl, aryl, substituted aryl, heteroaryl, or substituted heteroaryl.

(39) In some particularly preferred embodiments, said at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) is chalcone.

(40) Alternatively, said Michael acceptor is selected from flavones, isoflavones, coumarin, flavonols, and mixtures thereof.

(41) In other preferred embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises at least two Michael acceptors.

(42) In more preferred embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.3 are, independently of each other, a linear moiety selected from those listed above, and R.sub.2 is hydrogen, and at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a substituted 5-7 membered ring, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy.

(43) In other embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is a linear moiety selected from those listed above, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a substituted 5-7 membered ring, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy.

(44) Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is a linear C2-C6 alkenyl, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a 6-membered ring substituted with at least one hydroxy, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy.

(45) In particularly preferred embodiments, the composition of the invention comprises at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is a linear C3-C6 alkenyl, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a 6-membered ring substituted with at least one hydroxy, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy.

(46) Particularly preferred are those embodiments wherein the composition of the invention comprises sorbic acid and shikimic acid.

(47) Preferably, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises 2) at least one catalyst, said catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof. The catalyst serves to accelerate the reaction of the composition on hair and scalp, therefore with the addition of a catalyst, the effects of the composition can be observed at much shorter times.

(48) In preferred embodiments, said at least one catalyst is in a concentration up to 60 wt % on the composition weight.

(49) Preferably, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention further comprises 3) at least one linker. With the term “linker”, it is meant an atom or a moiety comprising at least one functional group, which may be used to bind said at least one Michael acceptor compound or said at least one acyclic terpene or both, to the thiol groups of hair.

(50) In preferred embodiments, said at least one linker is in concentration up to 35 wt % on the composition weight.

(51) Suitable linkers comprise oxygen, sulphur, carbon, boron, nitrogen, alkoxy, alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, cycloalkenyl, aryl, heterocycloalkyl, heteroaryl, ether, amine and combinations thereof. Preferably, said linker is a linker comprising at least one amino moiety. More preferably, said linker is a linker comprising two amino moieties.

(52) In some embodiments, said linker is selected from lysine, arginine, cysteine, selenocysteine, glutamine, asparagine, ethylenediamine, propane-1,3-diamine, hexamethylene diamine, ornithine, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

(53) In preferred embodiments, said amino linker is lysine or salt thereof.

(54) In some embodiments, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: 1) an active component comprising a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, and 3) at least one linker.

(55) Preferably, said active component is in a concentration up to 85 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(56) With “weight of components 1)-3)”, it is meant the sum of the weights of components 1) and 3).

(57) Preferably, said at least one acyclic terpene is in a concentration up to 55 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(58) Preferably, said active component comprises a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, and said at least one Michael acceptor compound is in a concentration up to 70 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(59) Preferred are those embodiments wherein the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: 1) 30-95 wt % of an active component comprising a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, and 3) 5-30 wt % of at least one linker, on the weight of components 1)-3).

(60) In particularly preferred embodiments, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: 1) an active component comprising at least one acyclic terpene or a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, 2) at least one catalyst, said catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof, and 3) at least one linker.

(61) In fact, as said, the presence of one linker accelerates the reaction of the composition on hair and scalp.

(62) Preferably, said active component is in a concentration up to 75 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(63) With “weight of components 1)-3)”, it is meant the sum of the weights of components 1) to 3).

(64) Preferably, said at least one acyclic terpene is in a concentration up to 45 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(65) Preferably, said active component comprises a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, and said at least one Michael acceptor compound is in a concentration up to 60 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(66) In particularly preferred embodiments, said active component comprises a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least two Michael acceptor compounds.

(67) Particularly preferred are those embodiments wherein said at least two Michael acceptor compounds are at least one Michael acceptor compound of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is a linear moiety selected from those listed above, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a substituted 5-7 membered ring, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy. More preferably, said at least two Michael acceptor compounds are at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 is a linear C2-C6 alkenyl, R.sub.2 is hydrogen and R.sub.3 is hydroxy, and at least one Michael acceptor of formula (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 form a 6-membered ring substituted with at least one hydroxy, and R.sub.3 is hydroxy.

(68) Even more preferred are those embodiments wherein said at least two Michael acceptor compounds are sorbic acid and shikimic acid.

(69) In preferred embodiments, said active component consists of at least one acyclic terpene or a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound.

(70) Preferably, said at least one catalyst is in a concentration up to 60 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(71) Preferably, said at least one linker is in a concentration up to 35 wt % on the weight of components 1)-3).

(72) Preferred are those embodiments, wherein the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: 1) 30-70 wt % of at least one acyclic terpene, 2) 25-60 wt % of at least one catalyst, said catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof, and 3) 5-30 wt % of at least one linker, on the weight of components 1)-3).

(73) Particularly preferred are those embodiments wherein said active component comprises a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound. As will be seen from the following working examples, these embodiments have shown a surprisingly synergistic effect, as the simultaneous presence of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound has allowed to obtain a very reduced residue of broken hair at the end of treatment, as compared to untreated hair and hair treated in the presence of only one of the two active components, each one being singularly very effective anyway.

(74) Preferably, said active component is a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, wherein said at least one Michael acceptor compound is in a quantity higher than said at least one acyclic terpene.

(75) Particularly, are even more preferred those embodiments wherein the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises: 1) 40-70 wt % of a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, 2) 20-40 wt % of at least one catalyst, said catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof, and 3) 10-20 wt % of at least one linker, on the weight of components 1)-3).

(76) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention preferably has a pH of 2 to 10.

(77) Preferably, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises up to 50 wt % of components 1) to 3), on the composition weight.

(78) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention may optionally also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

(79) Preferably, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention comprises up to 75 wt % of cosmetically acceptable excipients, on the composition weight.

(80) Cosmetically acceptable excipients comprise water, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, sunscreening agents, vitamins, silanes, silanols, hair dye agents, keratin softeners, proteins, diluents, amino acids, natural plant extracts, wetting agents, fragrances, perfumes, oils, emollients, lubricants, butters, permeation enhancers, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, polymers, resins, hair binders, film forming agents, surfactants, detergents, emulsifiers, dulling agents, propellants, conditioning agents, liquid vehicles, salts, pH regulators, neutralizing agents, buffers, antistatic agents, anti-frizzing agents, anti-dandruff agents, absorbent agents, and mixtures thereof.

(81) Suitable keratin softeners comprise allantoin, glycols and polyalcohols, such as glycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and salts thereof, betaine, and combinations thereof.

(82) Surfactants can be amphoteric, anionic or cationic.

(83) Suitable surfactants are 3-aminosulfonic acid, almond amide, almond amidopropyl betaine, almond amidopropylamine oxide, aluminium lanolate, aminoethyl sulfate, aminopropyl lauryl glutamine, ammonium C12-15 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C12-15 pareth sulfate, ammonium C12-C16 alkyl sulfate, ammonium C9-10 perfluoroalkylsulphonate, ammonium caprileth sulfate, ammonium capryleth-3 sulphate, ammonium monoglyceride sulphate, ammonium sulphate, ammonium isothionate, ammonium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium cumene sulfonate, ammonium dimethicone copolyol sulphate, ammonium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, ammonium isostearate, ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium laureth-12 sulfate, ammonium laureth-5 sulfate, ammonium laureth-6 carboxylate, ammonium laureth-7 sulfate, ammonium laureth-8 carboxylate, ammonium laureth-9 sulfate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium myreth sulfate, ammonium myristyl sulfate, ammonium nonoxynol-30 sulfate, ammonium nonoxinol-4 sulphate, ammonium oleate, ammonium polyacrylate, ammonium stearate, ammonium tallate, ammonium xylene sulfonate, AMP-isostearoyl gelatine/keratin amino acids/lysine hydroxypropyltriammonium chloride, AMP-isostearoyl collagen hydrolysed, PEG-6 esters of apricot kernel oil, apricot amine, apricot amidopropyl betaine, arachideth-20, avocadamide, avocadamido propyl betaine, babassuamide, babassuamidopropyl betaine, babas suamidopropylamine oxide, behenalconium chloride, behenamide, behenamidopropyl betaine, behenamine oxide, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulphate, or combinations thereof.

(84) Suitable anionic surfactants include those containing carboxylated, sulfonated and sulphated ions. Examples of anionic surfactants include sodium, potassium, ammonium of long chain alkyl sulfonates and alkyl aryl sulfonates, such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; dialkyl sodium sulfosuccinates, such as sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate; sodium dialkyl sulfosuccinates, such as sodium bis-(2-ethylthioxyl)sulfosuccinate; and alkyl sulphates such as sodium lauryl sulfate. Cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium compounds such as benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, stearyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, polyoxyethylene and coconut amine. Examples of nonionic surfactants include ethylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol myristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, acylated sorbitan, acylated sucrose, laurate PEG-150, monolaurate PEG-400, monolaurate polyoxyethylene, polysorbates, polyoxyethylene octylphenylether, PEG-1000 cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene tridecyl ether, polypropylene glycol butyl ether, Poloxamer 401, and stearoyl monoisopropanolamide. Examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium N-dodecyl-beta-alanine, sodium N-lauryl-p-iminodipropionate, myristoamphoacetate, lauryl betaine and lauryl sulfobetaine.

(85) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention optionally and preferably comprises up to 40 wt % of surfactants on the composition weight.

(86) Suitable emollients comprise silicones, such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone, dimethicone copolyol or a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, cyclopentasiloxane polysilicone; polyols such as sorbitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, xylitol, ethylhexyl palmitate; a triglyceride, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride; and fatty acid esters, such as cetearyl isononanoate or cetyl palmitate.

(87) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention optionally and preferably comprises up to 10 wt % of emollients on the composition weight.

(88) Suitable emulsifiers comprise copolymers of an unsaturated ester and monomeric styrene sulfonate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl ester, polyoxyethylene glycol ethers of cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, polysorbate-20, ceteareth-20, lecithin, stearate glycol, polysorbate-60, or polysorbate-80, and combinations thereof.

(89) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention optionally and preferably comprises up to 10 wt % of emulsifiers on the composition weight.

(90) Suitable preservatives comprise glycerine-containing compounds (for example, glycerine or ethylhexyl glycerol or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparabene, etc.), sodium benzoate, Leuconostoc/Radish root ferment filtrate, EDTA, potassium sorbate, grapefruit seed extract, salicylic acid, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, Quaternium-15, stearalconium chloride, zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulphite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulphite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils, lactic acid, vitamin E, and combinations thereof.

(91) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention optionally and preferably comprises up to 5 wt % of preservatives on the composition weight.

(92) In some embodiments, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention does not comprise preservatives.

(93) Suitable conditioning agents include silicones (for example silica Quaternium-8), panthenol, hydrolysed wheat and/or soy proteins, hydrolysed pea protein, amino acids (e.g., wheat amino acids), rice bran wax, mango seed oil, grape seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sweet almond oil, aloe leaf extract, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, phytantriol, retinyl palmitate, behentrimonium methosulfate, cyclopentasiloxane, Quaternium-91, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and combinations thereof.

(94) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention optionally and preferably comprises up to 5 wt % of conditioning agents on the composition weight.

(95) As for diluents, water is the preferred diluent, but alcohols such as ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol are also suitable.

(96) Suitable viscosity modifiers are viscous liquids such as polyethylene glycol, semisynthetic polymers, for example semi-synthetic cellulose derivatives, synthetic polymers such as carbomers, polyoxamers and polyethyleneimines, natural polymers such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, vaseline, waxes, bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide, and microcrystalline cellulose, salts such as sodium chloride, and combinations thereof. Suitable antioxidants comprise tocopherols, BHT, ascorbic acid, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Selaginella lepidophylla extract, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, carotenoids, resveratrol, triethyl citrate, arbutin, cogic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, superoxide dismutase, zinc, sodium metabisulphite, ubiquinone, and combinations thereof.

(97) Suitable dulling agents comprise glycol distearate and ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

(98) In other embodiments, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention consists essentially of: 1) an active component comprising at least one acyclic terpene or a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, 2) at least one catalyst, said catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof, and 3) at least one linker.

(99) With the term “consists essentially of”, it is understood that the above-mentioned ingredients (1) to (3) are the only active ingredients in the protection and repair of hair and scalp, being the remaining ingredients only excipients and bulking agents. It should be understood that all the aspects identified as preferred and advantageous for the composition and its components are to be likewise preferred and advantageous also for these embodiments.

(100) In further embodiments, the topical cosmetic composition of the invention consists of: 1) an active component comprising at least one acyclic terpene or a mixture of at least one acyclic terpene and at least one Michael acceptor compound, 2) at least one catalyst, said catalyst comprising proline, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate, or a mixture thereof, and 3) at least one linker, and

(101) one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

(102) It should be understood that all the aspects identified as preferred and advantageous for the composition and its components are to be likewise preferred and advantageous also for these embodiments.

(103) In another aspect, the present invention also relates to a product for hair and scalp care comprising said topical cosmetic composition.

(104) Preferably, said product for hair and scalp care comprises up to 50 wt % of topical cosmetic composition of the invention on the product weight.

(105) This product for hair and scalp care can be a lotion, milk, mousse, gel, cream, shampoo, conditioner, compress, mask, oil, emulsion o/w and emulsion w/o, silicone emulsion, multiple emulsion, microemulsion, hydroalcoholic solution, hydroglyceric solution, ointment, lipogel, paste, stick, cream-gel, or combination thereof. This product can be packaged in a pressurized device.

(106) The topical cosmetic composition of the invention can thus be used as an active ingredient for the restructuring and protecting hair and scalp in dedicated products. Thus, in a further aspect, the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of said topical cosmetic composition for restructuring and protecting hair and scalp.

(107) In particular, said composition can be applied on both wet and dry hair and can be left in place for up to 120 minutes, preferably up to 60 minutes. After the placing, the composition of the invention can be rinsed away with water, with or without shampoo.

(108) Given the beneficial effects of the use of the composition on the scalp, said composition may advantageously be used also for the restructuring and protecting skin and skin annexes.

(109) As will be seen from the following examples, preferred embodiments of the topical cosmetic composition of the invention, wherein said active component is a mixture of at least one Michael acceptor compound and at least one acyclic terpene, showed also a surprising synergistic effect, as the simultaneous presence of at least one Michael acceptor compound and at least one acyclic terpene has allowed to obtain a very reduced residue of broken hair at the end of treatment, as compared to untreated hair and hair treated in the presence of only one of the two active components, each one being singularly very effective anyway. Therefore, an advantageous hair protective effect has also been achieved, as well as a restructuring effect even after different hair treatments such as bleaching, dyeing, permanent, and straightening.

(110) The composition of the present invention can be prepared by methods known in the art, for example by direct mixing the ingredients.

(111) It should be understood that all possible combinations of the preferred aspects of the composition, products for hair and scalp care comprising said topical cosmetic composition, as well as the uses as reported above, are hereby described and likewise preferred.

(112) It should to be understood that all aspects identified as preferred and advantageous for the composition and its components are likewise preferred and advantageous also for the preparation and uses of the composition itself, and for products for hair and scalp care comprising said topical cosmetic composition.

(113) Below are working examples of the present invention provided for illustrative purposes.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

(114) The following composition (100 g) has been prepared:

(115) TABLE-US-00001 Ingredients grams Sorbic acid 13.3 Shikimic acid 33.3 Lysine 17.8 Proline 17.8 Zinc PCA 17.8

Example 2

(116) The following composition (100 g) has been prepared:

(117) TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients grams Squalene 38.5 Lysine 20.5 Proline 20.5 Zinc PCA 20.5

Example 3

(118) The following composition (100 g) has been prepared:

(119) TABLE-US-00003 Ingredients grams Sorbic acid 10.0 Shikimic acid 25.0 Squalene 25.0 Lysine 13.4 Proline 13.3 Zinc PCA 13.3

Example 4

(120) The following composition (100 g) has been prepared:

(121) TABLE-US-00004 Ingredients grams Sorbic acid 3.7 Shikimic acid 9.0 Squalene 9.0 Lysine 4.9 Proline 4.9 Zinc PCA 4.9 Excipients: 63.6 allantoin Polyquaternium-80 hydrolysed pea protein Selaginella Lepidophylla extract Leuconostoc/Radish root ferment filtrate

Example 5

(122) In order to demonstrate the efficacy of the compositions of the invention, as well as the synergistic effect of preferred embodiments, the following compositions were prepared and tested: 1) placebo 2) composition with sorbic acid and shikimic acid (Example 1) 3) composition with squalene (Example 2) 4) composition with sorbic acid and shikimic acid+squalene (Example 3)

(123) “Placebo” means a base of water and excipients only, such as solubilizer, preservative and pH regulator, as follows:

(124) TABLE-US-00005 Ingredients grams Water q.s. a 100 Phenoxyethanol 1.0 Lactic acid 1.0 Polysorbate 20 10

(125) The tests were conducted with the aim of verifying both the restructuring and protecting function during chemical hair treatment.

(126) Parameters Evaluated:

(127) Evaluation of residue: treated and dried hair locks are weighed with an analytical balance. The residue is calculated as the percentage of broken hair weight after combing cycles, on the initial weight of the hair locks.

(128) Sensory Evaluation:

(129) The sensory evaluation of the hair locks is performed visually by 3 experienced judges.

(130) TABLE-US-00006 Evaluating scale used: Score frizzy, dull, and rough at touch hair locks 4 quite frizzy, quite dull, and quite rough at touch hair locks 3 slightly frizzy, slightly dull, and slightly rough at touch hair locks 2 non-frizzy, non-dull, and non-rough at touch hair locks 1

(131) A) Restructuring Protocol:

(132) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams, and subjected to 3 bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol.

(133) Subsequently, the hair locks were subjected to a treatment with the respective composition, left in place for 45 minutes, under heating source, washed with a shampoo and dried.

(134) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory point of view:

(135) TABLE-US-00007 Test % loss on residue sensory evaluation placebo 0.6197 4 sorbic acid and shikimic acid 0.0783 2.5 squalene 0.0847 2.5 sorbic acid and shikimic acid + 0.0162 1 squalene

(136) B) Protecting Protocol Over Bleaching:

(137) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, and subjected to 3 consecutive bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol. and the respective composition. Each bleaching cycle included 45 minutes of placing on a plate. Then, the hair locks were washed with a shampoo and dried.

(138) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory point of view:

(139) TABLE-US-00008 Test % loss on residue sensory evaluation placebo 0.7420 4 sorbic acid and shikimic acid 0.0597 1.5 squalene 0.0631 1.5 sorbic acid and shikimic acid + 0.0204 1 squalene

(140) C) Protecting Protocol Over Dyeing:

(141) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams, and subjected to a dyeing treatment with a dye and oxygen 20 vol. in suitable ratios, and the respective composition. 30 minutes of placing on a plate were included. Then, the hair locks were washed with a shampoo and dried.

(142) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory and visual point of view:

(143) TABLE-US-00009 Test % loss on residue sensory evaluation placebo 0.5964 2.5 sorbic acid and shikimic acid 0.0642 1.5 squalene 0.0697 1.5 sorbic acid and shikimic acid + 0.0258 1 squalene

(144) D) Protecting Protocol Over Permanent:

(145) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams. A waving product was applied to the same, and then wrapped on hair rollers. Hair locks were left in place for 20 minutes on a plate. Then, the hair locks were washed with a shampoo and dried.

(146) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory and visual point of view:

(147) TABLE-US-00010 Test % loss on residue sensory evaluation placebo 0.6154 3 sorbic acid and shikimic acid 0.0943 1.6 squalene 0.0832 1.6 sorbic acid and shikimic acid + 0.0351 1 squalene

(148) E) Protecting Protocol Over Straightening:

(149) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams. A straightening product was applied to the same (10 g). Hair locks were left in place for 25 minutes on a plate. Then, the hair locks were washed with a shampoo and dried. 14 passages between plates were performed.

(150) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory and visual point of view:

(151) TABLE-US-00011 Test % loss on residue sensory evaluation placebo 0.5936 2.5 sorbic acid and shikimic acid 0.0686 1.6 squalene 0.0714 1.6 sorbic acid and shikimic acid + 0.0285 1 squalene

(152) F) Beauty Amplifier Protocol:

(153) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams. Hair locks were washed with a shampoo, towel-dried, and then treated with the respective composition, leaving in place for 15 minutes on a plate. Then, the hair locks were washed with a shampoo and dried.

(154) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory and visual point of view:

(155) TABLE-US-00012 Test % loss on residue sensory evaluation Placebo 0.1610 2 sorbic acid and shikimic acid 0.0327 1 squalene 0.0351 1 sorbic acid and shikimic acid + 0.0108 1 squalene

(156) As can be seen from the results shown in the above tables, the protective and repairing efficacy of the compositions of the invention is clear, while being even more clear and surprising in the compositions comprising at least one Michael acceptor compound, and at least one acyclic terpene. In fact, it should also be considered that the compositions of Example 3 comprise at least one Michael acceptor compound and at least one acyclic terpene in amounts lower than those of the corresponding components of Examples 1 and 2, thus the synergistic effect observed for Example 3 is even more significant and relevant.

Example 6

(157) The following compositions (100 g) have been prepared:

(158) TABLE-US-00013 Placebo Example 6 Ingredients grams grams Potassium sorbate 0 0.45 Shikimic acid 0 1 Squalene 0 1.5 Lysine hydrochloride 0 0.72 Proline 0 0.72 Zinc PCA 0 0.19 Water q.s. a 100 q.s. a 100 Excipients: 12.1 12.29 allantoin Polisorbate-20 phenoxyethanol lactic acid xanthan gum

(159) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams, and subjected to 3 bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol.

(160) Subsequently, the hair locks were subjected to a treatment with the respective composition, left in place for 45 minutes, under heating source, washed with a shampoo and dried.

(161) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated, and the hair lock was analysed from the sensory point of view, and by Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) analysis:

(162) A) Analysis of the Residue of Broken Hair

(163) TABLE-US-00014 % loss on residue sensory evaluation Placebo 0.7276 4 Example 6 0.0689 1

(164) B) Analysis at Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM):

(165) The microscopic hair structure was qualitatively analysed by using an Electronic Scanning Microscope (SEM). Five sections of each hair were selected from each hair lock. The hair was placed on a support and fixed with a small amount of adhesive. The acquisition was made with the following settings: EHT=20.00 kV (extra high tension) Signal A=QBSD (Quadrant Back Scattering Detector) WD=7.0-7.5 mm (working distance) Magnification=1.00KX

(166) The resulting images are reported in FIG. 1, where:

(167) FIG. 1A shows the hair surface before any treatment,

(168) FIG. 1B shows the hair surface treated with the composition of Example 6, and

(169) FIG. 1C shows the hair surface treated with placebo.

(170) The remarkable result obtained by applying the composition of the invention was evident, since the hair surface appeared clearly more compact and uniform.

Example 7

(171) The following composition (100 g) has been prepared:

(172) TABLE-US-00015 Ingredients grams Potassium sorbate 0.8 Shikimic acid 1.5 Squalene 1.5 Lysine hydrochloride 0.8 Water q.s. a 100 Excipients: 11.6 Polisorbate-20 phenoxyethanol xanthan gum

(173) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams, and subjected to 3 bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol.

(174) Subsequently, the hair locks were subjected to a treatment with the above composition, and, in a first case, left in place for 45 minutes, whereas, in a second case, for 4 hours, under heating source, washed with a shampoo and dried.

(175) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated.

(176) Analysis of the Residue of Broken Hair:

(177) TABLE-US-00016 % loss on residue after 45 minutes 0.5586 after 4 hours 0.0989

(178) This test showed that the presence of catalysts is not essential to obtain the desired result, but allows to accelerate its achievement.

Examples 8-11

(179) The following compositions (100 g) have been prepared:

(180) TABLE-US-00017 Example Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 11 Ingredients grams grams grams grams Potassium sorbate // 0.8 // 0.26 Shikimic acid // // 1.5 0.5 Potassium 2 // // 0.65 octatrienoate Squalene 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Lysine hydrochloride 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Proline 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Zinc PCA 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water q.s. a 100 q.s. a 100 q.s. a 100 q.s. a 100 Excipients: 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 allantoin Polisorbate-20 Phenoxyethanol Xanthan gum

(181) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams, and subjected to 3 bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol.

(182) Subsequently, the hair locks were subjected to a treatment with the respective composition, left in place for 45 minutes, under heating source, washed with a shampoo and dried.

(183) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated.

(184) Analysis of the Residue of Broken Hair:

(185) TABLE-US-00018 % loss on residue Placebo (v. Example 6) 0.85240 Example 8 0.07763 Example 9 0.06340 Example 10 0.09178 Example 11 0.04593

Examples 12-19

(186) The following compositions (100 g) have been prepared:

(187) TABLE-US-00019 Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Ex. 14 Ex. 15 Ex. 16 Ex. 17 Ex. 18 Ex. 19 Ingredients grams grams grams grams grams grams grams grams Potassium — 0.45 0.45 0.5 — — 0.2 0.4 sorbate Shikimic — 1 0.05 — 0.8 — 0.2 0.2 acid Potassium 1.2 — — — — 2.0 — — octatrienoate Squalene 1.5 — — 1.5 0.25 — — 0.5 Phytoene — 1.5 — — — — 1.5 — Phytofluene — — 1.5 — — 1.5 — — Lysine 0.8 — — — — — 0.8 — hydrochloride Arginine — 0.5 0.5 — — — — 0.5 Hexamethylene- — — — 0.5 0.5 0.5 — — diamine Proline 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Zinc PCA 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Excipients: 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 allantoin Polisorbate-20 phenoxyethanol xanthan gum

(188) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, each having a weight of 6-7 grams, and subjected to 3 bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol. Subsequently, the hair locks were subjected to a treatment with the respective composition, left in place for 45 minutes, under heating source, washed with a shampoo and dried. Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated.

(189) Analysis of the Residue of Broken Hair:

(190) TABLE-US-00020 % loss on residue Placebo (v. Example 6) 0.82320 Example 12 0.07128 Example 13 0.09652 Example 14 0.09164 Example 15 0.07633 Example 16 0.07165 Example 17 0.08450 Example 18 0.08085 Example 19 0.08297

Examples 20-27

(191) The following compositions (100 g) have been prepared:

(192) TABLE-US-00021 Ex. 20 Ex. 21 Ex. 22 Ex. 23 Ex. 24 Ex. 25 Ex. 26 Ex. 27 Ingredients grams grams grams grams grams grams grams grams Potassium 0.8 0.45 0.45 0.05 0.8 0.4 0.08 0.4 sorbate Shikimic 1.5 1 0.05 0.05 0.25 0.075 0.015 0.15 acid Squalene 1.5 1.5 1 0.1 0.25 0.075 0.005 0.5 Lysine 0.8 0.72 0.1 0.001 0.13 0.04 0.008 0.05 hydrochloride Proline 0.8 0.72 0.1 0.001 0.13 0.04 0.008 0.05 Zinc PCA 0.8 0.19 0.1 0.001 0.13 0.04 0.008 0.05 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Excipients: 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 12.1 allantoin Polisorbate-20 phenoxyethanol xanthan gum

(193) Untreated brown-based hair locks were prepared, and subjected to 3 consecutive bleaching cycles with a decolouring agent and oxygen 40 vol. and the respective composition. Each bleaching cycle included 45 minutes of placing on a plate. Then, the hair locks were washed with a shampoo and dried.

(194) Each hair lock was subjected to 10 combing cycles at the end of which the broken hair residue was evaluated.

(195) TABLE-US-00022 % loss on residue Placebo (v. Example 6) 0.82320 Example 20 0.07128 Example 21 0.06921 Example 22 0.07266 Example 23 0.08432 Example 24 0.05892 Example 25 0.08365 Example 26 0.06149 Example 27 0.07381

Example 28

(196) The following compositions (100 g) have been prepared:

(197) TABLE-US-00023 Example 28 Placebo Ingredients grams grams Potassium sorbate 0.080 0 Shikimic acid 0.015 0 Squalene 0.005 0 Lysine hydrochloride 0.008 0 Proline 0.008 0 Zinc PCA 0.008 0 Water q.s. a 100 q.s. a 100 Excipients: 42.85 42.85 allantoin polyquaternium-10 coco betaine sodium laureth sulfate PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate perfume PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil ethoxydiglycol phenoxyethanol DMDM hydantoin disodium EDTA citric acid PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate

Example 29

(198) The following composition (100 g) has been prepared:

(199) TABLE-US-00024 Ingredients grams Potassium sorbate 0.40 Shikimic acid 0.075 Squalene 0.075 Lysine hydrochloride 0.04 Proline 0.04 Zinc PCA 0.04 Water q.s. a 100 Excipients: 15.7 allantoin behentrimonium chloride cetrimonium chloride glycerine isopropyl alcohol perfume phenoxyethanol DMDM hydantoin disodium EDTA citric acid

Example 30

(200) Evaluation of the Effectiveness of Compositions of the Previous Examples

(201) In order to evaluate the effectiveness in improving the structure and mechanical properties of the hair, an ex vivo test was performed on hair locks (n. 10) of natural hair subjected to a de-structuring cycle; all the hair locks were subjected to a first treatment (professional treatment), after which 5 hair locks were treated with the home-use product according to the present invention and 5 hair locks were subjected to washing only with placebo shampoo, i.e. a shampoo comprising the composition “Placebo” reported in Example 28.

(202) 1) Professional Treatment According to the Invention:

(203) Wash with a shampoo comprising the composition of Example 28 (1 gram per hair lock); apply a serum comprising the composition of Example 20 (3 grams per hair lock): 15 min of placing time, while having covered hair with a shower cap (on a plate heated at 35° C. to simulate body temperature); apply a mask comprising the composition of Example 29 (1.5 gram per hair lock) overlaying the serum for 5 minutes (on a plate heated at 35° C. to simulate body temperature); rinse abundantly; towel-dry the hair lock; dry.

(204) 2) Home Treatment According to the Invention:

(205) Wash with a shampoo comprising the composition of Example 28 (1 gram per hair lock); apply a mask comprising the composition of Example 29 for 5 minutes (3 gram per hair lock) (on a plate heated at 35° C. to simulate body temperature); rinse abundantly; towel-dry the hair lock; dry; repeat for 4 more times.

(206) 3) Home Treatment with Placebo:

(207) Wash with placebo shampoo (1 gram for hair lock); rinse abundantly; towel-dry the hair lock; dry; repeat for 4 more times.

(208) Procedure Followed:

(209) As said, the hair locks have been de-structured by means of a 40-volume bleach treatment. After the bleaching procedure, the hair locks were washed with neutral shampoo, dried with a hairdryer and then subjected to professional treatment 1). Subsequently, 5 hair locks were subjected to home treatment 2) and dried with a hairdryer (4 cycles repeated), and 5 hair locks were subjected to home treatment 3) with placebo shampoo and dried with a hairdryer (4 cycles repeated).

(210) Tests Performed

(211) Hydration

(212) The measurement of the hydration degree of the hair takes place indirectly by using the Tewameter® TM 300 (Courage+Khazaka, electronic GmbH) instrument. The physical basis of measurement is the Law of Diffusion discovered by Adolf Fick in 1855:
dm/dt=−D*A*dp/dx

(213) The law of diffusion dm/dt denotes the water mass per cm.sup.2 transported over a period of time. It is proportional to area A and change of concentration over space, i.e. dp/dx. D is the water vapor diffusion coefficient in the air. This law is valid only for a homogeneous diffusion area, which is formed approximately by a cylinder. The resulting density gradient is measured indirectly by two pairs of sensors (temperature and relative humidity) and is analysed by a microprocessor. The probe measurement head is a shallow cylinder (diameter 10 mm and length 20 mm) in order to minimize the influences due to air turbulence within the probe. Water loss is measured continuously for one hour. At the end of the measurement, the area under the curd is calculated. A calibration curve is drawn by known amounts of water (0, 10, 50, 100, 200, 400, 600 microlitres).

(214) Brightness of Hair

(215) The “gloss” parameter is measured by using the spectrophotometer/colorimeter CM-700d (Konica Minolta). The “gloss” value represents the specular component of the reflected light and is correlated with the perception of brightness/luminosity. The instrument evaluates the colour in accordance with the international standard developed by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE). The brightness is measured in three points of the hair lock (high, medium, low) and then the average is calculated on the three measurements.

(216) Hair Elasticity

(217) Hair elasticity (maximum elongation before breakage) is evaluated by dynamometer (Tensolab 2512A, Mesdan Lab) in accordance with the UNI EN ISO 5079: 1998 method. Hair elasticity is calculated as the force required to break the single hair.

(218) Hair Diameter

(219) The diameter of the hair stalk is evaluated by image analysis.

(220) Clinical Evaluation

(221) The experimenter evaluates the hair volume and consistency at any experimental time by using a clinical judgment scale (see Table 1 and 2).

(222) TABLE-US-00025 TABLE 1 Clinical evaluation of hair volume score Unchanged hair lock surface 1 Slight increase of the hair lock surface 2 Evident increase of the hair lock surface 3

(223) TABLE-US-00026 TABLE 2 Clinical evaluation of hair consistency score Dull and arid hair, damaged throughout its length 1 Slightly arid, slightly dull hair, slightly damaged stalk, 2 arid ends Acceptably bright, non-arid hair, slightly damaged ends 3 Soft, bright, non-arid hair 4

RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

(224) TABLE-US-00027 Treatment 1) Treatments 1) + 2) Treatments 1) + 3) Hydration +62.5% +70.1% +29.9% (increase vs. post- destructuring) Brightness +12.7% +35.9% +6.0% (increase vs. post- destructuring) Diameter +8.9% +10.9% +0.5% (increase vs. post- destructuring)

(225) TABLE-US-00028 Treatments Treatments Destructuring Treatment 1) 1) + 2) 1) + 3) Hair 1.0 2.5 4.0 1.4 consistency.sup.∘ Hair — 1.5 1.2 1.0 volume.sup.∘∘ .sup.∘average score based on a reference clinical scale of 1 (dull and arid hair, damaged throughout its length) to 4 (Soft, bright, non-arid hair) .sup.∘∘average score based on a reference clinical scale (1: unchanged hair lock surface, 2: slight increase of the hair lock surface, 3: evident increase of the hair lock surface).

(226) As demonstrated by the data shown in the tables above, the professional treatment 1) was effective in improving the evaluated parameters. In particular, the values of hydration, brightness, elasticity, thickness and general appearance of previously destructured hair are increased.

(227) In addition, these results are further improved or maintained with home treatment 2) and are also statistically significant.

(228) Home treatment 3) with placebo shampoo conversely shows a worsening of values obtained with professional treatment 1), thereby highlighting the repair action of the comprehensive treatment with the products of the present invention.