COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC, NON-IONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AND CATIONIC ASSOCIATIVE POLYMERS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising anionic surfactants of polyoxy-alkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid type, additional anionic surfactants, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants and cationic associative polymers. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular for washing and/or conditioning the hair, using such a composition, and also to a use employing said composition.

Claims

1.-19. (canceled)

20. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids or salts thereof; (ii) at least one anionic surfactant other than the at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i); (iii) at least one non-ionic surfactant; (iv) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and (v) at least one cationic associative polymer, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one amphoteric surfactant (iv) to the at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5.

21. The composition of claim 20, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen from compounds of formula (1):
R.sub.1OC.sub.2H.sub.4).sub.n—OCH.sub.2COOA  (1) wherein in formula (1): R1 is chosen from a linear or branched C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C.sub.8-C.sub.9)alkylphenyl radical, or a radical R.sub.2CONH—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2— with R2 denoting a linear or branched C.sub.9-C.sub.21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; n is an integer or decimal number ranging from 2 to 24; and A is chosen from H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg, Ca, a monoethanolamine residue, or triethanolamine residue.

22. The composition of claim 20, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are chosen from compounds of formula (1):
R.sub.1OC.sub.2H.sub.4).sub.n—OCH.sub.2COOA  (1) wherein in formula (1): R1 is chosen from a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl, or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and n ranges from 2 to 20.

23. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids or salts thereof is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant (ii) is chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: C.sub.6-C.sub.24 and especially C.sub.12-C.sub.20 alkyl sulfates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl ether sulfates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 olefin sulfonates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkylsulfosuccinates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) acylisethionates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylsarcosinates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylglutamates; C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylglycinates; optionally in the form of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts.

25. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant (ii) is present in a total amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is chosen from: alcohols, α-diols, and (C.sub.1-20)alkylphenols, wherein the alcohols, α-diols, and (C.sub.1-20)alkylphenols being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated, and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 2 to 30; alternatively, the alcohols, α-diols, and (C.sub.1-20)alkylphenols comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms; condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; fatty acid esters of sucrose; polyoxyalkylenated, preferably polyoxyethylenated, or fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils; N—(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; amine oxides or N—(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides; non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented by the following general formula: R1O—(R2O)t-(G)v, wherein: R1 is chosen from a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

27. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.

28. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from: (C.sub.8-C.sub.2)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido(C.sub.3-C.sub.8)alkylbetaines, or (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido(C.sub.6-C.sub.8)alkylsulfobetaines; compounds having respective formulae (II) and (III) below:
R.sub.a—CONHCH.sub.2CH.sub.2—N.sup.+(R.sub.b)(R.sub.c)—CH.sub.2COO.sup.−,M.sup.+,X.sup.−  (II) wherein in formula (II): R.sub.a is chosen form a C.sub.10 to C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.aCOOH, a heptyl group, a nonyl group, or an undecyl group; R.sub.b is chosen from a β-hydroxyethyl group; and R.sub.c is chosen from a carboxymethyl group; M.sup.+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and X.sup.− represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion; or alternatively M.sup.+ and X.sup.− are absent;
R.sub.a′—CONHCH.sub.2CH.sub.2—N(B)(B′)  (III) wherein in formula (III): B is chosen from the group —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2OX′; B′ is chosen from the group —(CH.sub.2).sub.zY′, wherein z=1 or 2; X′ is chosen from the group —CH.sub.2COOH, —CH.sub.2—COOZ′, —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2COOH, CH.sub.2CH.sub.2—COOZ′, or a hydrogen atom; Y′ is chosen from the group —OOH, —COOZ′, —CH.sub.2CH(OH)SO.sub.3H, or CH.sub.2CH(OH)SO.sub.3—Z′; Z′ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; R.sub.a′ is chosen from a C.sub.10 to C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.a′—COOH, an alkyl group or its iso form, or an unsaturated C.sub.17 group; compounds of formula (IV):
R.sub.a″—NHCH(Y″)—(CH.sub.2).sub.nCONH(CH.sub.2).sub.n′—N(R.sub.d)(R.sub.e)  (IV) wherein in formula (IV): Y″ is chosen from the group —OOH, —COOZ″, —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)SO.sub.3H, or CH.sub.2CH(OH)SO.sub.3—Z″; R.sub.d and R.sub.e represent, independently of one another, a C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z″ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; R.sub.a″ represents a C.sub.10 to C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R.sub.a″-COOH; n and n′ denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

30. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in a total amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. The composition of claim 20, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant (iv) to the total amount of the at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than the at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids or salts thereof (i) is greater than or equal to 0.5.

32. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one cationic associative polymer is chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by general formula (Ia) below:
R—X—(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L′-(P′)p—X′—R′ wherein: R and R′, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X′, which may be identical or different, is chosen from a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively the group L″; L, L′ and L″, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P′, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive; n, m and p are each, independently of one another, between 0 and 1000; the cationic associative polyurethanes containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group. (B) quaternized cellulose derivatives; (C) cationic polyvinyllactams comprising: a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type; or b) at least one monomer of formula (Ic) or formula (IIc) below: ##STR00017## wherein in formula (Ic) and formula (IIc): X is chosen from an oxygen atom or an NR.sub.6 radical, R.sub.1 and R.sub.6 are chosen from, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.5 alkyl radical, R.sub.2 is chosen from a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, R.sub.3, R.sub.4, and R.sub.5 are chosen from, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl radical, or a radical of formula (IIIc):
—(Y.sub.2).sub.r—(CH.sub.2—CH(R.sub.7)—O).sub.x—R.sub.8  (IIIC) Y, Y.sub.1 and Y.sub.2 are chosen from, independently of one another, a linear or branched C.sub.2-C.sub.16 alkylene radical, R.sub.7 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.4 hydroxyalkyl radical, R.sub.8 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of one another, either the value zero or the value 1, m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100, x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive, Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, with the proviso that: at least one of the substituents R.sub.3, R.sub.4, R.sub.5 or R.sub.8 denotes a linear or branched C.sub.9-C.sub.30 alkyl radical, if m and/or n is other than zero, then q is equal to 1, if m=n=0, then p or q equals 0. (D) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising at least one vinyl monomer substituted with at least one amino group, at least one hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomer, and/or at least one associative vinyl monomer.

33. The composition of claim 32, wherein the quaternized celluloses are modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, wherein the at least one fatty chain incudes at least 8 carbon atoms.

34. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one cationic associative polymer is chosen from the quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): ##STR00018## wherein in formula (Ib): R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN.sup.+—, Q.sup.−, wherein Ra, Rb, and Rc, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl, and Q.sup.− represents an anionic counterion; R′ represents an ammonium group R′aR′bR′cN.sup.+—, Q′, wherein R′a, R′b, and R′c, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl, and Q′.sup.− represents an anionic counterion; wherein at least one of the Ra, Rb, Rc, Ra, R′b, and R′c radicals represents a linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.30alkyl; n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.

35. The composition of claim 34, wherein only one of the Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b, and R′c radicals represents a linear or branched C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl.

36. The composition of claim 20, wherein the at least one cationic associative polymer is present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

37. The composition of claim 20, further comprising at least one cationic polymer, wherein the cationic charge density of the at least one cationic polymer is greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g); and wherein the at least one cationic polymer is present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

38. The composition of claim 20, further comprising at least one amphoteric polymer, wherein the at least one amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of: (i) at least one unit derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, (ii) at least one unit derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium-type monomer, and (iii) at least one unit derived from a (meth)acrylic acid-type acid monomer; wherein the at least one amphoteric polymer is present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

39. A method of treating keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials an effective amount of a composition comprising: (i) at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids or salts thereof; (ii) at least one anionic surfactant other than the at least one anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof (i); (iii) at least one non-ionic surfactant; (iv) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and (v) at least one cationic associative polymer, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one amphoteric surfactant (iv) to the at least one anionic surfactant (ii) other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof is greater than or equal to 0.5. optionally, subsequently rinsing the keratin materials after the composition is left on the keratin materials for a desired period of time; and optionally, drying the keratin materials after rinsing the keratin materials.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0339] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material (AM).

TABLE-US-00001 Compositions (% AM) A B C D Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 2.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 7.0 — — 7.0 Sodium C.sub.14-C.sub.16 olefin sulfonate — 7.0 7.0 — Cocamidopropyl betaine 5.0 6.4 6.4 7.0 Caprylyl/capryl glucoside — 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cocoyl glucoside 1.1 — — — Polyquaternium-67 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.75 NaCl 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Preservatives qs qs qs qs pH agent qs pH qs pH qs pH qs pH 4.7 ± 0.3 4.7 ± 0.3 5.1 ± 0.3 4.5 ± 0.3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Ratio* 0.71 0.91 0.91 1 *Amphoteric surfactant (iv)/additional anionic surfactant (ii) ratio

TABLE-US-00002 Compositions (% AM) E F G H I Laureth-5 carboxylic 2.0 3.0 3.0 6.0 3.0 acid Sodium Laureth Sulfate — 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Sodium C.sub.14-C.sub.16 olefin 7.0 — — — — sulfonate Cocamidopropyl betaine 6.4 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Caprylyl/capryl glucoside 1.5 1.5 1.5 3.0 1.5 Polyquaternium-67 0.2 0.3 0.3 0.5 0.75 Polyquaternium-53 — — — 0.3 — Propylene glycol — 0.24 — — — PEG-55 propylene — 0.24 — — — glycol oleate PPG-5-Ceteth-20 — 0.7 — — — Plant oil (coconut 0.03 — — — — in particular) Glycerol — — 1.5 — — Glycol distearate — — 0.6 — — NaCl 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.8 1.3 Preservatives qs qs qs qs qs pH agent qs pH qs pH qs pH qs pH qs pH 5.1 ± 0.3 4.7 ± 0.3 4.5 ± 0.3 4.5 ± 0.3 4.5 ± 0.2 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Ratio* 0.91 1 1 1 1 *Amphoteric surfactant (iv)/additional anionic surfactant (ii) ratio

[0340] The compositions according to the invention may be used as shampoos.

[0341] It is noted that they make it possible to provide good disentangling, smooth feel and visual smoothness, suppleness and fibre-coating properties, better than those provided by products on the market (DOP shampoo for example).

EXAMPLE 2

[0342] The composition according to the invention I prepared above is compared with a comparative composition not comprising any associative polymer.

TABLE-US-00003 Compositions (% AM) Invention Comparative Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 3.0 6.0 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 7.0 7.0 Cocamidopropyl betaine 7.0 7.0 Caprylyl/capryl glucoside 1.5 — Polyquaternium-67 0.75 — Polyquaternium-53 — 0.3 Polyquaternium-6 — 0.5 Laureth-4 — 1.0 Laureth-12 — 4.0 NaCl 1.3 1.8 Preservatives qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100

[0343] The compositions were applied per ½ head to the heads of 6 volunteers with sensitized hair, in a proportion of 6 g of composition per ½ head, they were then rinsed off and the hair was dried.

[0344] A sensory evaluation was carried out, blind, by an expert who assigned a score ranging from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very good) for the criterion tested, in increments of 0.5.

[0345] The following results are obtained:

TABLE-US-00004 On damp hair Smooth Disentangling Coating feel Suppleness Invention 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.8 Comparative 3.2 3.1 2.9 3.1 p-value 0.025 0.005 0.004 0.012

TABLE-US-00005 On dry hair Visual Smooth Disentangling smoothness Coating feel Invention 3.6 3.0 3.6 3.5 Comparative 3.2 2.4 2.6 2.6 p-value 0.078 0.030 0.004 0.000

[0346] It is noted that the composition according to the invention provides better performance qualities in terms of conditioning than the comparative composition.

EXAMPLE 3

[0347] A composition according to the invention and a comparative composition below are prepared.

TABLE-US-00006 Compositions (% AM) Invention Comparative Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 2 2 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 7 7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 5 2.8 Cocoyl glucoside 1.15 1.15 Polyquaternium-67 0.30 0.30 Preservatives qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 (iv)/(ii) Ratio 0.7 0.4

[0348] The compositions were applied to locks of sensitized hair (SA20), in a proportion of 1 g of composition per lock of 2.7 g, then the locks were rinsed.

[0349] A sensory evaluation was carried out, blind, by 7 experts who assigned, for the criterion tested, a score ranging from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very good) in increments of 0.5.

[0350] To evaluate the disentangling, the expert slides a comb through the hair from the root to the end, and evaluates the ease with which it passes through.

[0351] To evaluate the smoothness, the expert takes the lock of hair between their fingers and slides the fingers over the hair from the root to the end. The expert evaluates whether the hair has bumps and catches on the fingers.

[0352] The following results are obtained:

TABLE-US-00007 Disentangling Smooth Feel Invention Comparative Invention Comparative Expert 1 5 3.5 5 3.5 Expert 2 5 4 5 3 Expert 3 5 4 5 4 Expert 4 4.5 4.5 4.5 3.5 Expert 5 5 4.5 4 3.5 Expert 6 5 4 4 4.5 Expert 7 4 3 4 3 Mean 4.8 3.9 4.5 3.6 p-value 0.007 0.011

[0353] The composition according to the invention provides better performance qualities in terms of disentangling and smooth feel than the comparative composition.

[0354] According to the Mann-Whitney test for independent samples, the calculation of the p-value gives values for the p-value of <0.05.

[0355] The composition according to the invention is thus significantly different, in terms of disentangling and smooth feel, from the comparative composition.