VITAMIN A AND VITAMIN C COMBINATIONS WITH ENHANCED STABILITY
20210186845 · 2021-06-24
Assignee
Inventors
- Steven Kosann (Englewood Cliffs, NJ, US)
- Nickolas Huss (Maywood, NJ, US)
- Michelle Howard (Warren, NJ, US)
- Yiming Lu (Weehawken, NJ, US)
- Hidetomo Sekine (Tokyo, JP)
Cpc classification
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/671
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61Q1/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention is related to a combination for obtaining improved stability of a Vitamin A ester and Vitamin C formulation, achieved via including a specific Vitamin A derivative and one of several other Vitamin C derivatives. This combination shows an enhanced stability in varied cosmetic formulations as a function of time and at different environmental conditions.
Claims
1. A combination of Vitamin A and Vitamin C with enhanced stability that contains one Vitamin A derivative and one Vitamin C derivative selected from a group of Vitamin C derivatives.
2. A combination according to claim 1 wherein said Vitamin A derivative is retinyl linoleate.
3. A combination according to claim 1 wherein said Vitamin A derivative is in a carrier oil.
4. A combination according to claim 1 wherein said several other Vitamin C derivatives are selected from a group comprising tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
5. A combination according to claim 1 wherein the amount of retinyl linoleate ranges from 0.01% to 2% by weight.
6. A combination according to claim 4 wherein the amount of tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate ranges from 0.01% to 2% by weight.
7. A combination according to claim 4 wherein the amount of ascorbyl glucoside ranges from 0.01% to 2% by weight.
8. A combination according to claim 4 wherein the amount of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid ranges from 0.01% to 2% by weight.
9. A combination according to claim 4 wherein the amount of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate ranges from 0.01% to 2% by weight.
10. A combination according to claim 1 wherein said final composition is in the form of a lotion, a cream, a milk, a gel, an oil, an aerosol, a spray, a foam, a solid stick, a powder, a shampoo, a hair conditioner, a lacquer, a make-up or a sunscreen.
Description
DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] The patent or application file contains at least one drawing executed in color. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with color drawing(s) will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fee.
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0028] The combination presented in this invention allows the co-formulation of at least one of the Vitamin A derivatives, and one of the several other Vitamin C derivatives, while maintaining high stability in an ambient environment or at an elevated temperature. The enhanced stability is achieved by combining the esterified Vitamins and utilizing the synergistic anti-oxidative activities of these ingredients.
[0029] In the preferred embodiment of this invention, retinyl linoleate is used as the designated ingredient as Vitamin A derivative. It is known that the basic form of Vitamin A, retinol, is extremely sensitive to oxygen and UV light due to the decomposition of conjugated double bond in the presence of a free radical. In addition, this instability makes it difficult to formulate. By using the esterified Vitamin A, retinyl linoleate, it can effectively resist the potential negative influence from the surrounding environment. A carrier oil is used to dilute retinyl linoleate, and the oil used in this invention is squalane. The amount of retinyl linoleate in squalane is in the range of 1 to 10%.
[0030] In another preferred embodiment of this invention, one of several other Vitamin C derivatives is selected as the second ingredient for this particular combination. Specifically, these Vitamin C derivatives are 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside are water soluble and in the form of solid powder. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl isopalmitate is oil soluble, and in the form of a liquid.
[0031] The combination revealed in the present invention with the enhanced stability can be applied to any known cosmetic skincare products, as well as to any new formulations. The benefits derived from this invention can be applied to extend the efficacy and shelf life of any cosmetic skincare product which provides functionality for skin repair, skin rejuvenation and skin protection.
[0032] In a preferred embodiment of this invention, other Vitamin A derivatives are combined with Vitamin C derivatives to create a comparison against the retinyl linoleate combination. Examples of these Vitamin A derivatives are retinol and hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
EXAMPLES
[0033] The following non limiting examples are provided for illustration purposes in order to facilitate a better understanding of the disclosure subjects.
List of Ingredients
[0034] The ingredients presented here may be obtained from varied suppliers and may be substituted with other ingredients sharing the same INCI name.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Active Vitamins INCI Name Group of Vitamin A Retinyl Linoleate Derivatives Retinol Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Group of Vitamin C Tetrahexydecyl Derivatives Ascorbate/Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Asborbyl Glucoside 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
[0035] The combination of Vitamin A and Vitamin C presented in this invention can be used in a wide range of skincare formulations. Depending on the hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity of the chosen Vitamin A or Vitamin C derivatives, the addition of these two components should comply with the specific formulation guideline. For example, a skincare formulation is often composed of several different phases. When using an oil/lipid soluble Vitamin C derivative, it is necessary to combine this ingredient first with the oil phase, and then move onto the following steps. In a preferred embodiment of this invention, the oil soluble Vitamin C derivative is tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. For water soluble Vitamin C derivatives, it is vital to combine these ingredients first in an aqueous phase, and then move onto the following steps of formulation. In another preferred embodiment of this invention, water soluble Vitamin C derivatives are ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. These three derivatives are in the form of a solid. Yet in another preferred embodiment, retinyl linoleate is the Vitamin A derivative which is used in the combination. Other Vitamin A or Vitamin A derivatives are only used as a comparison against retinyl linoleate. Specifically, these Vitamin A derivatives are retinol and hydroxypinacolone retinoate. In addition, all Vitamin A and Vitamin A derivatives presented in this invention are oil/lipid soluble. Therefore, a pre-mixture of these ingredients in the oil phase must be prepared in order to achieve a desirable finished formulation.
Example 1
[0036] Preparation of oil in water emulsion with retinyl linoleate and tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate combination.
[0037] A typical oil-in-water emulsion is used for incorporating the combination of Vitamin A and Vitamin C. Since the stability of the Vitamin combination in the presence of a finished formulation can be evaluated based on the characteristic odor, visual appearance, specific gravity, pH and viscosity, choosing an emulsion base with a white color background is favorable for monitoring these parameters. The oil-in-water emulsion is based on a technology utilized hydrogenated lecithin in order to improve the emulsion stability.
TABLE-US-00002 INCI Name % w/w Phase A Water 63.8 Isopentyldiol 5.00 Glycerine 2.00 Xanthan Gum 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 1.00 Phase B Glyceryl Stearate 2.50 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed 10.00 Oil Isononyl Isononanoate 3.00 Hydrogenated Lecithin 0.50 Batyl Alcohol 0.50 Phase C Retinyl Linoleate 0.2 Tetrahexydecyl 2.00 Ascorbate/Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Phase D Dimethicone 0.50
Procedure
[0038] 1. The ingredients of phase A are combined and mixed at room temperature 25° C., until homogeneous. Then the combination is heated up to 75° C.-80° C. [0039] 2. The ingredients of phase B are combined and heated up to 75° C.-80° C. Keep mixing until homogeneous. [0040] 3. The ingredients of phase C are combined and added to phase B while the temperature is maintained at 75° C.-80° C. [0041] 4. The mixture of phase B and phase C is added to phase A slowly under homogenizer. Maintain the temperature at 75° C.-80° C. during addition and the speed of homogenizer is 5000 rpm. [0042] 5. The mixture is cooled down to 40° C. and phase D is slowly added into the mixture under sweeper blade. Then the whole mixture is cooled down to 25° C. under sweeper blade.
[0043] Stability assessment of the example formulation is critical. Monitoring the color change of the formulation as a function of time or temperature is a direct indication of the Vitamin A and Vitamin C stability. Both Vitamin A and Vitamin C are sensitive to the pH, temperature and oxygen.
[0044] However, the particular combination in this formulation example can be exposed to these environmental factors and maintain a high stability.
[0045] In terms of the stability assessment, monitoring the change of color is the most important method, and is completed frequently. Other physicochemical properties such as pH, specific gravity and viscosity are also important, but will only be measured at certain times. All properties will be determined using corresponding equipment.
Example 2
[0046] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinyl linoleate and ascorbyl glucoside. The composition was prepared according to example 1, except that tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 2% in phase C is replaced with ascorbyl glucoside 2%. In the meantime, due to the temperature sensitivity of ascorbyl glucoside, a water solution with pH at 6 is made, then post added into the emulsion, after phase D.
Example 3
[0047] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinyl linoleate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0048] The composition was prepared according to example 1, except that tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 2% in phase C is replaced with 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid 2%. In the meantime, due to the temperature sensitivity of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, a water solution with pH at 6 is made then post added into the emulsion, after phase D.
Example 4
[0049] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinyl linoleate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
[0050] The composition was prepared according to example 1, except that tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 2% in phase C is replaced with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate 2%. In the meantime, due to the temperature sensitivity of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water solution with pH at 6 is made then post added into the emulsion, after phase D.
Example 5
[0051] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinol and tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
[0052] The composition was prepared according to example 1, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with retinol 0.2%. Moreover, retinol is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity
Example 6
[0053] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinol and ascorbyl glucoside.
[0054] The composition was prepared according to example 2, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with retinol 0.2%. Moreover, retinol is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Example 7
[0055] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinol and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0056] The composition was prepared according to example 3, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with retinol 0.2%. Moreover, retinol is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Example 8
[0057] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with retinol and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
[0058] The composition was prepared according to example 4, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with retinol 0.2%. Moreover, retinol is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Example 9
[0059] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with hydropinacolone retinoate and tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
[0060] The composition was prepared according to example 1, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.2%. Moreover, hydropinacolone retinoate is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Example 10
[0061] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with hydropinacolone retinoate and ascorbyl glucoside.
[0062] The composition was prepared according to example 2, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.2%. Moreover, hydropinacolone retinoate is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Example 11
[0063] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with hydropinacolone retinoate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0064] The composition was prepared according to example 3, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.2%. Moreover, hydropinacolone retinoate is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Example 12
[0065] Comparative example oil in water emulsion with hydropinacolone retinoate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
[0066] The composition was prepared according to example 4, except that retinol linoleate 0.2% in phase C is replaced with hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.2%. Moreover, hydropinacolone retinoate is post added as phase E after phase D due to its temperature sensitivity.
Results and Discussion
[0067] Lecithin based oil-in-water emulsions were used as substrates to formulate with combination of Vitamin actives. In order to determine the interactions and stabilities of Vitamin actives, photos were taken periodically as a function of time. The emulsion base is white, and it is easy to observe any changes in color if the samples are closely monitored. As illustrated previously, the active Vitamins are Vitamin C and Vitamin A derivatives. Vitamin C derivatives used in the formulations are tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Vitamin A derivatives are retinyl linoleate, retinol and hydroxypinacolone retinoate. Formulation with these ingredients strictly follow recommended formulation guidelines with consideration to pH, temperature and sequence of addition.
[0068] One of the most important criteria to determine the stability of the samples is the color change. Almost all skincare formulations have a high standard regarding color performance due to the importance of the customer user-experience. It is undesirable to observe visible color changes in cosmetic products. Example 1 through example 12 in total generate 12 samples with active combinations which differ from one another. Example 1 to example 4 are formulated with retinyl linoleate (labeled as “Group Retinyl Linoleate”) and four other Vitamin C derivatives. The representative samples at different temperatures of 25° C., 45° C. and 55° C. are displayed in three sample rows from bottom to top in
Stability of Samples after One-Week Incubation at Varied Temperatures
[0069] All samples formulated with retinyl linoleate (
[0070] Despite the fact that hydroxypiancolone retinoate is an ester derivative of retinol, “Group Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate” showed a completely different color profile than samples formulated with retinyl linoleate and retinol (
[0071] Stability of Samples after Five and Eight-Week Incubation at Varied Temperatures
[0072] There was a more drastic change in color after five weeks of incubation, and the images are shown in
[0073] In regard to samples formulated with hydroxypinacolone retinoate, the color change was intense. In week one, the color of these samples was creamy yellow and after four weeks incubation, the color changed to lemony yellow. In the meantime, samples formulated with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and hydroxypinacolone retinoate showed color inhomogeneity (
[0074] Monitoring and accessing visual stability of these samples was also continued to week eight, which is two-month period. For samples incubated at 55° C., the stability monitoring that stopped at five weeks correlated to industrial standard (usually 4 weeks at 55° C.). Samples at 25° C. and 45° C. were monitored after five weeks. Results in week eight were similar with results in week five. Formulations with retinyl linoleate had the highest visual stability, especially the sample with tetrahexydecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and retinyl linoleate. Samples formulated with retinol and Vitamin C derivatives not only changed in color, but also showed phase separation. For example, the sample formulated with retinol and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate became more yellow, and the emulsion separated into two phases at 55° C. This result was similar to the sample formulated with hydroxypinacolone retinoate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate at week five incubated at 55° C. Samples with other Vitamin C derivatives did not became phase separated. The above results indicate that the visual instability and emulsion stability are determined by both the type of Vitamin A, and the type of Vitamin C. Therefore, the combination of retinyl linoleate and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate/ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is one of the most stable among all combinations, and formulations with retinyl linoleate display the best visual profile and stability compared with formulations with the other two Vitamin A derivatives.
[0075] Although a specific embodiment of the invention has been disclosed herein, it is to be understood that various modifications can be made to the described embodiment without departing from the scope of the claimed invention, which modification would be apparent to one skilled in this art area.