FABRIC INTEGRATING AT LEAST ONE BINDING PART

Abstract

A fabric integrating one or more binding parts with a tie obtained by the following textile construction of the fabric: a) the fabric includes two superposed individual layers of fabric secured to one another, one outer layer on the tie side and the other inner layer lining the inner layer of fabric, b) several warp threads of the outer layer of fabric, called binding threads as they together form a binding loop, freely overlapping several weft threads of the same layer and/or several weft threads of the outer layer of fabric, called binding threads as they together form a binding loop, freely overlapping several warp threads of the same layer, with the inner layer of fabric, an eyelet for passage of the tie at the place where the weft and/or warp threads overlap, obtained by deformation and/or extension of said binding threads, at the binding location of the fabric.

Claims

1.-8. (canceled)

9. Fabric comprising: at least an outer fabric layer and an inner fabric layer superposed and secured to the outer fabric layer to line the outer fabric layer, and several binding parts for a tie, distributed on a surface of the outer fabric layer and offset from one another in a warp direction or a weft direction of the outer fabric layer, each binding part being obtained, by several warp threads arranged to freely overlap several weft threads of the outer fabric layer so as to define a binding loop, the several warp threads being called binding threads, or by several weft threads arranged to freely overlap several warp threads of the outer fabric layer so as to define a binding loop, the several weft threads being called binding threads, wherein the binding threads of each binding part belong to the outer fabric layer, and wherein the inner fabric layer and the binding threads of each binding part predefine the binding loop forming an eyelet for passage of the tie between the outer fabric layer and the binding threads, the binding loop forming an eyelet for passage of the tie by deformation or extension of said binding threads.

10. Fabric according to claim 9, wherein the binding loop comprises two feet separated by a plurality of weft threads of the outer fabric layer or by a plurality of warp threads of the outer layer, the two feet being formed by binding threads raised from the inner fabric layer.

11. Fabric according to claim 9, wherein the inner fabric layer comprises warp threads and/or weft threads having a smaller cross-section than warp threads or weft threads of the outer fabric layer.

12. Fabric according to claim 9, comprising several warp and weft threads of the inner fabric layer raised from the inner fabric layer onto the outer fabric layer and said raised warp and/or weft threads of the inner fabric layer being interwoven with the threads of the outer fabric layer to locally strengthened the outer fabric layer between the inner fabric layer and the binding threads.

13. Fabric according to claim 9, comprising several warp and/or weft threads of the inner fabric layer raised from the inner fabric layer onto the outer fabric layer and said raised warp and/or weft threads of the inner fabric layer being interwoven with the threads of the outer fabric layer to locally strengthened the outer fabric layer on at least one end of the eyelet in a direction the warp direction when the binding threads are warp threads or in the weft direction when the binding threads are weft threads.

14. Fabric according to claim 9, comprising several warp or weft threads of the inner fabric layer raised from the inner fabric layer onto the outer fabric layer and said raised warp and/or weft threads of the inner fabric layer being interwoven with the threads of the outer fabric layer to locally strengthened the outer fabric layer, on at least one end of the eyelet in a direction the warp direction when the binding threads are weft threads or in the weft direction when the binding threads are warp threads.

15. Strip or piece of a fabric according to claim 9, comprising a multiplicity of templates distributed and/or repeated in the warp direction or the weft direction, each template comprising one or more binding lines.

16. Strip or piece of a fabric according to claim 14 wherein each template comprises two binding lines symmetrical with respect to a direction parallel to the warp or the weft of the fabric.

17. Article or product, wherein it comprises at least a flexible part, of small thickness, at least partially formed by or obtained from a fabric according to claim 9.

18. Article or product according to claim 16, forming an item of footwear for pursuit of a sport.

19. Footwear comprising an article or product according to claim 16 forming a footwear upper, the footwear upper defining an indent and comprising a means for closing an inner volume of the footwear upper comprising two series of eyelets, directly obtained or integrated in the footwear upper, on each side of the indent, and a lace passing through said eyelets and straddling the indent.

Description

[0061] The present invention is now described for example purposes with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[0062] FIG. 1 schematically represents a width of fabric according to the present invention, in top view seen from the outside, with a binding part represented schematically in top view and on an enlarged scale;

[0063] FIG. 2 again schematically represents the construction of the fabric according to FIG. 1, in cross-section in the warp direction of the fabric, passing in the middle of the binding part;

[0064] FIGS. 3 and 4 schematically represent two alternative embodiments of the binding part belonging to the fabric according to FIGS. 1 and 2;

[0065] FIG. 5 schematically represents a width of fabric according to the present invention comprising several templates from each of which a piece of fabric, such as a shoe upper, comprising two series of binding or lacing parts, can be obtained by cutting followed by shaping;

[0066] FIG. 6 schematically represents, in perspective view, a shoe comprising or integrating an upper obtained by the method schematised in FIG. 5, with a tie or lace joining the two parallel series of binding or lacing parts according to FIGS. 1 and 2 present on the shoe and directly integrated in the fabric of the upper;

[0067] FIG. 7 schematically represents a cross-sectional view along the cutting plane VII-VII, featured in FIG. 6, of the shoe represented in the latter;

[0068] FIG. 8 schematically represents a perspective view of an alternative embodiment of the shoe represented in FIGS. 6 and 7, with two parallel series of binding or lacing parts according to FIG. 3 present on the shoe and directly integrated in the fabric of the upper.

[0069] In FIGS. 1 to 5, the warp direction and weft direction are respectively referenced 15 and 16.

[0070] According to FIGS. 1 and 2, a fabric 1 according to the present invention comprises or integrates at least one binding part 2 with a tie 3, the latter passing freely through said part as represented in FIG. 2.

[0071] According to the invention, this binding part 2 is obtained at the place selected locally for binding of the fabric by the following textile construction:

[0072] a) the fabric comprises at least two superposed individual layers of fabric secured to one another with any predefined weave, defining multiple, regularly arranged or distributed attachment points 12, depending on the surface of the fabric.

[0073] One of these layers is called outer layer 4 as it is situated on the side where the tie is located, whereas the other layer called inner layer 5 lines or supports the outer layer so that, as shown more specifically in FIG. 2, the fabric presents an outer surface, shown in FIGS. 1, 3 and 4, i.e. that of outer layer 4, and an inner surface that is the outer surface of inner layer 5.

[0074] To simplify the representation of FIGS. 1 to 4, the weave of the fabrics forming outer layer 4 and inner layer 5 is a plain weave interweaving warp threads 10 and weft threads 8 in the case of outer layer 4; outer layer 4 and inner layer 5 can naturally have any other simple or complex weave.

[0075] b) Several warp threads 6 of outer layer 4 of fabric 1, called binding threads as they together form a binding loop 7, freely overlap or straddle several weft threads 8 of this same outer layer. These binding threads 6 predefine, i.e. before the fabric is worked or shaped, an eyelet 11 for passage of tie 3, with inner layer 2 of fabric, at the place or point where these binding threads overlap weft threads 8 of the same layer 4; eyelet 11 being obtained by deformation and/or extension of binding threads 6, and if applicable of outer layer 5, precisely at the place or point selected by construction on the fabric to secure the latter.

[0076] At the locations selected or defined on the fabric, to bind the latter in locally manner or point to point, i.e. here and there where the different binding parts 2 represented in the appended drawings are obtained in fabric 1, as defined and described in the foregoing, the present invention makes it possible to circumvent or reduce destructuring of fabric 1, caused by large and/or permanent or repeated stresses, for example tensile stresses, applied on tie 3 kept free in the binding parts, as is for example the case for lacing a shoe.

[0077] Each binding part 2, that is to say either itself and/or all or part of its periphery on fabric 1, can further be locally reinforced, i.e. on outer layer 4 of fabric, by raising of this outer layer and interweaving of several warp and/or weft threads of inner layer 5 of fabric, for example with a predefined weave, with weft threads 8 and/or warp threads 10 of outer layer 4 of fabric.

[0078] In this way, the mechanical strength of each binding part 2 can be further enhanced while at the same time preserving the aesthetics of the latter, at rest and under traction, due to the effect of the tie itself in tension or traction.

[0079] As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, by raising certain warp threads of inner layer 5, under binding loop 7, these threads can be added and interweaved for example with any suitable weave, for example a 3/1 twill weave, with weft threads 8 left free underneath loop 7, on account of the free overlap of the latter by binding warp threads 6. An internal reinforcement 14 of eyelet 11 of each binding part 2 is thus obtained.

[0080] As shown only by FIG. 1, on one side or the other of eyelet 11, several warp and/or weft threads of inner layer 5 are raised and are added and interweaved with warp threads 10 and/or weft 8 threads of outer layer 4, for example with any suitable weave, for example a 3/1 twill weave. This weave is repeated in the overlap direction, i.e. warp direction 15, to obtain binding loop 7, by means of which a local reinforcement 30 of outer layer 4 of the fabric of suitable width (in weft direction 16) to increase the strength of binding part 2 is obtained on both sides of eyelet 11, for example in adjacent manner to or at a small distance from the latter.

[0081] As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, on the side where each foot 7a or 7b of loop 7 is located, by raising certain warp and/or weft threads of inner layer 5, these threads can be added and interweaved in any suitable manner, of seam stitch type in embroidery, with weft threads 8 and/or warp threads 10 of outer layer 4 situated on each side of loop 7, outside the latter, for example adjacent to or at a small distance from loop 7. A local reinforcement 13 of outer layer 4 of fabric is thus obtained in at least one reinforcement direction perpendicular to the direction of free overlap of binding warp threads 6, i.e. in weft direction 16, over a distance in this direction at least equal to the pass-through width of binding loop 7 and therefore of eyelet 11. Each of the local reinforcements 13 is located on the same side as each foot 7a or 7b of loop 7, outside the latter, which also enables binding part 2 to be kept in position in outer layer 4 of fabric whatever the force and repetition of the mechanical stresses transmitted by tie 3 to the fabric.

[0082] As shown in particular by FIG. 2, the warp and/or weft threads of inner layer 5 have for example a smaller cross-section than that of warp threads 10 and/or weft threads 8 of outer layer 4, with the exception of reinforcement areas 13 of feet 7a and 7b of loop 7 in which at least the weft threads have a larger cross-section. Furthermore, again in these reinforcement areas 13, binding warp threads 6 of outer layer 4 descend for example towards inner layer 5 to secure layers 4 and 5 of fabric to one another.

[0083] As shown by FIGS. 1 and 2, outside binding parts 2, outer layer 4 and inner layer 5 of fabric are secured to one another at different securing points 12 distributed for example in regular manner with any suitable weave on the surface of the fabric.

[0084] Fabric 1 schematically represented in FIG. 3 differs from that represented in FIGS. 1 and 2 in that each of binding parts 2 results from a different construction of the fabric in which several weft threads 9 of outer layer 4 of fabric, called binding threads as together they form a binding loop 7, freely overlap several warp threads 10 of the same layer. These binding weft threads 9 predefine an eyelet 11 for passage of tie 3, with inner layer 5 of fabric, at the place or point where overlap of warp threads 10 by binding weft threads 9 takes place. This eyelet 11 is obtained by deformation and/or extension of binding weft threads 9 at the place or point where binding of fabric 1 is performed.

[0085] Fabric 1 schematically represented in FIG. 4 differs from that represented in FIGS. 1 and 2 in that each of binding parts 2 results in a different construction of fabric 1 wherein, at the selected binding place or point on the fabric, several binding warp threads 6 of outer layer 4 of fabric freely overlap several weft threads 8 of the same layer, and several binding weft threads 9 freely overlap several warp threads 10 of the same layer. Binding warp threads 6 and binding weft threads 9 are interweaved with any suitable weave to together preform a woven binding loop 7.

[0086] In the industrial practice of the invention with any suitable double-warp weaving loom, preferably a Jacquard loom, suitably prepared by a single weaving operation, a width or piece of fabric is obtained as previously defined and described and schematically represented in FIG. 5. This width of fabric comprises a multiplicity of templates 18 distributed and/or repeated in warp direction 15 and/or weft direction 16. Each template 18 serves the purpose of obtaining one identical piece 20 by cutting and shaping of fabric 1, for example to obtain upper 20 of a shoe 21, presenting an indent 20a. Each template 18 comprises for example one or more binding lines 19, each binding line 19 being the fictitious line along which the different binding parts 2 are distributed or assembled at or on the surface of fabric 1, more precisely on the outer surface of outer layer 4 of the latter, to allow passage of a tie 3 through eyelets 11 of binding parts 2 respectively. For example, as represented in FIG. 5, each template comprises two binding lines 19 symmetrical with respect to a direction parallel to warp direction 15 or weft direction 16 of the fabric.

[0087] In order to distribute the forces generated by tensioning of tie 3 over the whole surface of the fabric, binding parts 2 integrated in fabric 1 are distributed in warp direction 15 and/or weft direction 16 of outer layer 4 of the fabric. For example, for this purpose binding parts 2 are offset from one another in warp direction 15 and/or weft direction 16.

[0088] With reference to FIGS. 6 and 7, an item of footwear 21, for example a sport shoes such as a shoe for pursuit of a racket sport (tennis for example), obtained from a fabric according to the present invention, is now described.

[0089] Footwear item 21 comprises a sole 22 made from a material of rubber type and an upper 20 made from fabric 1 according to the present invention, the bottom peripheral edge 20b of which is joined to sole 22 for example by sticking. As shown by template 18 in flat view on the right of FIG. 5, this upper 20 has the general shape of a horseshoe and extends symmetrically on each side of an indent 20a. Furthermore, as shown by FIG. 5, this upper 20 is obtained by cutting from a template 18 itself originally belonging to a piece or width of fabric 1 according to the invention. Once it has been cut and shaped or formed in volume, this upper 20 comprises two series of binding or lacing parts 2, or eyelets 11, respectively arranged along two substantially parallel binding lines on each side of indent 20a.

[0090] The different binding or lacing parts 2, or more precisely their respective eyelets 11, are used for through passage of a single tie 3 or lace, with any suitable lacing method in which tie 3 goes back and forth from one side of indent 20a to the other and straddles the latter, from the bottom part to the top part of said indent.

[0091] The useful inner volume 23 of footwear item 21 defined by upper 20 with sole 22 is determined to comfortably receive and secure the user's foot to the footwear.

[0092] Upper 20 comprises a means for closing 24 this useful inner volume firstly by a tongue 25 closing indent 20a, the tie being added on, for example stitched to the inside of upper 20, secondly by the two parallel series 19 of binding parts 2, or eyelets 11, facing one another on each side of indent 20a, and thirdly by tie 3, or lace, connecting the different binding parts 2, or eyelets 11, and straddling indent 20a. The prime function of this means for closing 24 is to enable the user's foot to be inserted in or removed from useful inner volume 23 of footwear 21 when tie 3 or lace is loosened. Depending on the degree of tightening of tie 3, the same means for closing 24 however also enables the shoe to be adjusted to fit the user's foot.

[0093] The footwear represented in FIG. 8 differs from that represented in FIGS. 6 and 7 by the fact that each of binding or lacing parts 2 is in accordance with the representation of FIG. 3 and the above description relating thereto.

[0094] The fabric integrating at least one binding part or binding parts 2 according to the invention is for example a technical fabric obtained according to or in compliance with the invention described in the document WO 2015 079,178, i.e. a multifunctional, monolithic or monoblock technical fabric as it comprises different individualised woven sectors presenting respectively different technical or practical properties/features from one sector to another. In such a case, depending on the finished article or product in which any flexible part obtained with the fabric is to be placed, one or more woven sectors of the same fabric integrate one or more binding parts 2 according to the invention distributed over the surface of the fabric so as for example to define one or more binding lines running through one or more woven sectors of the fabric for one or more ties with this fabric to respectively pass.

[0095] To conclude, the present invention also relates in general manner to a footwear item 21 comprising an upper 20 comprising a piece of fabric 1 demarcating an inner volume 23, means for closing 24 said inner volume formed by at least two series 19 of binding or lacing parts 2 on each side of an indent 20a of the upper, filled or not by a tongue 25, and a tie 3, or lace, connecting or passing through said binding parts 2, straddling said indent 20a, this footwear item being characterised in that several binding parts 2 are integrated or obtained directly by textile construction in fabric 1 of upper 20. For this purpose, for example, on the one hand fabric 1 comprises at least two superposed individual layers secured to one another, one layer being an outer layer 4 on the side where the tie is located and the other layer an inner layer 5 lining the outer layer, and on the other hand, at the location of a binding part 2, i.e. where binding part 2 is placed, several binding threads together forming a binding loop 7 belonging to the warp or to the weft of fabric 1 freely overlap several weft threads 8 or warp threads 10 of outer layer 4 of fabric 1. For example purposes, the binding threads, i.e. those of binding loop 7, are secured in inner layer 5 or in outer layer 4 of fabric 1 or are themselves binding threads of these two layers 4 and 5 of fabric 1.

[0096] In preferential manner, binding thread 6 or 9 of a binding part 2 is considered as belonging to outer layer 4 when it has more mechanical connections with outer layer 4 than with inner layer 5, advantageously at least twice as many mechanical connections with outer layer 4 than with inner layer 5, or even three or five times as many. For example purposes, FIG. 2 shows that warp thread 6 of outer layer 4 is connected to outer layer 4. This warp thread 6 comes into pinpoint contact with inner layer 5 to secure the two individual layers of fabric. As indicated in the foregoing, warp thread 6 of outer layer 4 can also be connected with inner layer 5 to reinforce inner layer 5 preferably when the feet of binding loop 7 are formed. A very large majority of the weft thread(s) and warp threads forming outer layer 4 or inner layer 5 are connected to one another in comparison with possible mechanical connections with the other layer, this for example representing at least 90% of the connections.

[0097] As illustrated in FIG. 2, when binding loop 7 is formed, binding thread 6 or 9 defines two feet formed by fixing of binding thread 6 or 9 with the weft or warp thread of outer layer 4 or inner layer 5. When free overlap of binding thread 6 or 9 takes place between the two feet, the binding thread is not mechanically connected to outer layer 4. It is possible to deform and/or stretch binding thread 6 or 9 to define the eyelet. When deformation and/or extension is performed, binding thread 6 or 9 moves away from the surface of outer layer 4. In more realistic manner, outer layer 5 and inner layer 4 also deform in opposite manner in order to define the eyelet.

[0098] It is also apparent that definition of the eyelet is advantageously partially performed by deformation of the outer layer to be able to insert tie 3. In other words, when the tie is not in the eyelet, the eyelet recloses i.e. binding loop 7 moves towards outer layer 4 in the free overlap area. This configuration is totally different from that presented in the document DE 1,277,765 that proposes formation of a loop formed by a considerably longer thread than its equivalent used in formation of a layer of fabric. This extra thread weakens the mechanical cohesion and makes the loop more easily liable to tear in the mechanical connection areas. This configuration is different from an architecture presented in the document U.S. Pat. No. 236,059 which provides for the shape of the cartridge belt to be preserved at all times.

[0099] Formation of the eyelet by deformation and/or extension of the binding threads means that a binding thread 6 or 9 can be obtained having substantially the same length between the two feet when the binding thread freely overlaps the outer layer in comparison with a binding thread continuously connected to the outer layer. This configuration facilitates manufacturing of the fabric as the warp or weft thread forming the binding thread is woven without greatly modifying the operation of the weaving loom. For example, the extra length of the binding thread is advantageously less than 20% and preferably less than 10% in comparison with the same thread defining outer layer 4 between two feet separated by the same distance.

[0100] In a preferential embodiment, binding loop 7 is formed on the one hand by binding thread 6 or 9 which can be a warp thread or a weft thread, and on the other hand by the other thread forming the outer layer. In other words, the weft threads and warp threads forming the outer layer separate to form the two opposite edges of the binding loop as illustrated in FIG. 2. In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 2, binding loop 7 can be formed by a single type of thread, i.e. the binding thread salient from outer layer 4. The other portion of binding loop 7 formed by outer layer 4 can be formed by a single type of thread or possibly by raising of a thread of inner layer 5.

[0101] In the embodiment illustrated in FIG. 2, the repetition pitch of the weft threads of inner layer 5 is smaller than the repetition pitch of the weft threads of outer layer 4, for example twice as small. The same can be the case for the warp threads. It is then advantageous to use weft threads and/or warp threads having different diameters. The inner layer presents a denser weave than that of the outer layer so that the inner layer has a greater strength than that of the outer layer. The strength at the level of the eyelet is improved on account of the increased strength provided by the inner layer. As indicated in the above, it is advantageous to have a denser weave in immediate proximity to the binding loop to enhance the strength of the eyelet.