COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING TWO SPECIFIC CATIONIC SURFACTANTS AND A SILICONE EMULSION, AND A COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) cationic surfactants of formula (Ia):

##STR00001##

in which:

R5 and R6 represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 aliphatic group optionally comprising heteroatoms; or else an aromatic group,

R7 and R8 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 aliphatic group, and

Y.sup.− is an anion;

(ii) additional cationic surfactants, different from the cationic surfactants of formula (Ia), and

(iii) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, comprising a polydialkylsiloxane comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, an aminosilicone and a non-ionic surfactant having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating, more particularly for conditioning, the hair.

Claims

1.-17. (canceled)

18. A cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ia): ##STR00012## wherein: R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the aliphatic group optionally comprises at least one heteroatom; or an aromatic group; R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Y.sup.− is an anion; (ii) at least one cationic surfactant other than the at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ia), and (iii) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, and comprising: a silicone mixture comprising (i) a polydialkylsiloxane comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa.Math.s and (ii) an aminosilicone having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa.Math.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of aminosilicone; a surfactant mixture comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, and water.

19. The composition according to claim 18, comprising at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ia) wherein: R5 represents a saturated linear C8-C30 alkyl group, or a (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl group; and/or R6 represents a saturated linear C8-C30 alkyl group, or a (C12-C22)alkyl acetate group; and/or R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

20. The composition according to claim 18, comprising at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ia) chosen from di(C8-C30)alkyldimethylammonium salts.

21. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the di(C8-C30)alkyldimethylammonium salts are chosen from distearyldimethylammonium halides, dicetyldimethylammonium halides, benzyldimethylstearylammonium halides, stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium halides, di(C8-C30)alkyldimethylammonium (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, or mixtures thereof.

22. The composition according claim 18, wherein the at least one surfactant of formula (Ia) is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1° A to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant different from the cationic surfactants of formula (Ia) is chosen from the cationic surfactants of formula (Ib): ##STR00013## wherein: R1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the aliphatic group optionally comprises one or more heteroatom, R2 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and X.sup.− is an anion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl-, or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

24. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ib) is chosen from (C8-C30)alkyltrimethylammonium salts.

25. The composition according to claim 24, wherein the (C8-C30)alkyltrimethylammonium salts are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, palm itylam idopropyltrimethylammonium salts, (C8-C30)alkyltrimethylammonium halides, (C8-C30)alkyltrimethylammonium (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, or mixtures thereof.

26. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the at least one surfactant different from the cationic surfactants of formula (Ia) is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one surfactant of formula (Ib) is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1° A to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the silicone mixture comprises one or more polydialkylsiloxanes comprising trialkylsilyl end groups of formula (I):
R′3SiO(R′2SiO)pSiR′3 , wherein: R′, which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and p is an integer ranging from 500 to 2000; having a viscosity ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa s at 25° C.

29. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the silicone mixture comprises one or more aminosilicones of formula (II): XR.sub.2Si(OSiAR).sub.n(OSiR.sub.2).sub.mOSiR.sub.2X , wherein: R, which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, X, which may be identical or different, represents R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6 0 alkoxy group; A is an amino radical of formula —R.sup.1−[NR.sup.2—R.sup.3—].sub.xNR.sup.2.sub.2, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with R.sup.1 representing a C1-C6 alkylene radical, R.sup.2, which may be identical or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R.sup.3 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, x is 0 or 1; m and n are integers such that m+n ranges from 50 to 1000; having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa.Math.s, and/or an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of aminosilicone.

30. The composition according to claim 18, comprising (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity, at 25° C., ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa.Math.s, in an amount of from 70% to 90% by weight, and (ii) one or more aminosilicones having a viscosity, at 25° C., ranging from 1000 to 15000 mPa.Math.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of aminosilicone, in an amount of from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

31. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the surfactant mixture comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants chosen from: (i) (poly)oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols; (ii) (poly)oxyalkylenated (C8-C32)alkyl phenyl ethers; (iii) polyoxyalkylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan; and (iv) polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids.

32. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises: a surfactant mixture in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the non-ionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; the silicone mixture in a total amount ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the polydialkylsiloxane(s) comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, in a total amount ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or the aminosilicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or water in a total amount ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

33. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of between 100 and 300 nm.

34. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

35. The composition according claim 18, wherein the composition comprises at least one alcohol, of structure R—OH wherein R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, R optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

36. A cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, wherein the process comprises; applying to the keratin materials of a composition comprising: (i) at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ia): ##STR00014## wherein: R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the aliphatic group optionally comprises at least one heteroatom; or an aromatic group; R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; Y.sup.− is an anion; (ii) at least one cationic surfactant other than the at least one cationic surfactant of formula (Ia), and (iii) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, and comprising: a silicone mixture comprising (i) a polydialkylsiloxane comprising trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 40 000 to 100 000 mPa.Math.s and (ii) an aminosilicone having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1000 to 15 000 mPa.Math.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of aminosilicone; a surfactant mixture comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, and water; and optionally followed by a leave-on time and/or by a rinsing step and/or by a drying step.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

Preparation of the Silicone Emulsion

[0313] 450 g of fluid aminosilicone (copolymer of dimethylsiloxane—aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, having an amine number of 7.2 mg of KOH/g and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.Math.s at 25° C.) are transferred into a 1st vessel; 1800 g of dimethylsiloxane comprising trimethylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity of 61 500 mPa.Math.s at 25° C., are added, with stirring, and the stirring is maintained for 2 hours at ambient temperature.

[0314] In a separate vessel, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG100 stearate are mixed, and the mixture is heated to 60° C. The mixture is maintained at this temperature until a liquid mixture is obtained, then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active material) are added. The surfactant mixture has an HLB=11.25. 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid are added and the stirring is continued until a creamy paste is obtained.

[0315] The content of this 2nd vessel (creamy paste) is then transferred into the 1st vessel (containing the silicones), then the mixture obtained is mixed for 30 minutes at ambient temperature (20-25° C.). The mixing steps are carried out in order to obtain a homogeneous mixture; they are carried out at ambient temperature.

[0316] 79.6 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 60 minutes.

[0317] 72.7 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 50 minutes.

[0318] 197.4 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 5 minutes.

[0319] 294.3 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 5 minutes.

[0320] 180 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 5 minutes.

[0321] 180 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 5 minutes.

[0322] 197.4 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 3 minutes.

[0323] 228.5 g of demineralized water are added and mixing is carried out for 3 minutes.

[0324] Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol (preservative) are added and mixing is carried out for 3 minutes.

[0325] An oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of 170 nm is obtained.

EXAMPLE 2

[0326] The cosmetic compositions below comprising the following ingredients (amounts expressed as % by weight of active material AM, unless otherwise indicated) are prepared:

TABLE-US-00001 Ingredients Invention A Comparative B Comparative C Cetearyl alcohol   6%   6%   6% Mixture of myristyl stearate and 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% myristyl palmitate (INCI: CETYL ESTERS) Silicone emulsion as prepared 2% (0.8% AM 2% (0.8% AM 2% (0.8% AM in Example 1 of silicone + of silicone + of silicone + 0.2% AM of 0.2% AM of 0.2% AM of aminosilicone) aminosilicone) aminosilicone) Dicetyldimethylammonium 1% AM 2% AM — chloride (VARISOFT 432 CG from Evonik) Cetyltrimethylammonium 1% AM — 2% AM chloride (DEHYQUART A OR from BASF) Preservative, fragrance qs qs qs Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100%

[0327] Compositions are obtained which can be used as rinse-off conditioner.

[0328] a) Viscosity

[0329] The viscosity of the 3 compositions was measured 24 h after production, then after two months of storage at ambient temperature (25° C.) (Rheomat RM 200, 25° C., spindle 3, 200 rpm).

[0330] The results obtained are given below:

TABLE-US-00002 Viscosity 24 h Viscosity after after production 2 months at 25° C. % variation A (invention) 1145 cps  1270 cps  +10.9% B (comparative) 815 cps 650 cps −20.2% C (comparative) 550 cps 690 cps +25.5%

[0331] The composition A according to the invention has a higher viscosity than the comparative compositions B and C, which allows easy application without the risk of running.

[0332] After a storage period of 2 months at 25° C., the change in the viscosity, compared with the initial viscosity, is smaller for the composition A according to the invention compared with the compositions B and C.

[0333] b) Deposit of Fatty Substances and of Cations

[0334] The compositions A, B and C were applied to pads of hair trimmings weighing 200 mg, previously washed with a standard shampoo and rinsed, in a proportion of 1 ml of composition per pad of hair.

[0335] After rinsing and drying, the deposit of, on the one hand, fatty substances and of, on the other hand, cations was measured by gas chromatography after desorption in dichloromethane.

[0336] The following results are obtained (in micrograms/gram of hair)

TABLE-US-00003 Total fatty substances Total cations (μg/g hair) (μg/g hair) A (invention) 2925 755 B (comparative) 7143 713 C (comparative) 2328 1197

[0337] It is noted that the composition A makes it possible to deposit amounts of fatty substances and of cations that are intermediate between the composition B and the composition C.

[0338] Excessively large deposits of fatty substances result in an unclean greasy feel, contrary to the desired natural and clean feel.

[0339] Excessively large deposits of cations result in a softening of the fibres, contrary to the desired tonicity effect.

[0340] These results are confirmed by the rubbing and bending force measurements, carried out on locks, below.

[0341] c) Rubbing

[0342] Locks of hair, washed beforehand with a standard shampoo and rinsed, are treated with each of the compositions A, B and C, in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair.

[0343] After rinsing and drying, 4 lock portions, each weighing 150 milligrams, are sampled from each lock, and are each mounted on a support.

[0344] Each lock portion is then inserted between 2 jaws: the maximum force required to move the support along the 2 jaws is then recorded.

[0345] The mean force corresponding to the mean of the 4 maximum forces measured is calculated.

[0346] The lower the rubbing force, the more representative is the surface of the lock of an unclean greasy feel.

[0347] The following results are obtained:

TABLE-US-00004 Mean rubbing force (in N) A (invention) 0.334 B (comparative) 0.143 C (comparative) 0.147

[0348] The rubbing forces of the compositions B and C are lower than that of the composition A; this reflects a surface that is much more representative of an unclean greasy feel for the compositions B and C.

[0349] d) Bending

[0350] Locks of hair, washed beforehand with a standard shampoo and rinsed, are treated with each of the compositions A, B and C, in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of hair.

[0351] After rinsing and drying, 4 lock portions, weighing 150 milligrams, are sampled from each lock, and are each mounted on a support.

[0352] Each support is then moved perpendicularly towards 2 stops: the maximum force required to continue the movement is recorded.

[0353] The mean force corresponding to the mean of the 4 maximum forces measured is calculated.

[0354] The greater the bending, the more resistant/tonic is the hair.

[0355] The following results are obtained:

TABLE-US-00005 Mean bending force (in N) A (invention) 0.0329 B (comparative) 0.0258 C (comparative) 0.0257

[0356] The composition A results in a bending force greater than that of the compositions B and C, which reflects a better bending resistance of the hair, and therefore a better tonicity.

[0357] In conclusion, only the composition A according to the invention makes it possible to produce a feel that is soft while at the same time remaining clean, and also allows the hair to retain tonicity.

EXAMPLE 3

[0358] The cosmetic compositions below comprising the following ingredients (amounts expressed as % by weight of active material AM, unless otherwise indicated) are prepared:

TABLE-US-00006 Ingredients Invention A Comparative A′ Cetearyl alcohol   6%   6% Mixture of myristyl stearate and myri- 0.5% 0.5% styl palmitate (INCI: CETYL ESTERS) Silicone emulsion as prepared in Ex- 2% (0.8% AM of — ample 1 (silicone + aminosilicone + silicone + 0.2% AM nonionic surfactants) of aminosilicone) Dimethicone ((Xiameter PMX-200 Sili- — 0.8% am cone Fluid) Amodimethicone (DC2-8566 Amino — 0.2% am Fluid) Non-ionic surfactants (laureth-11 + — 0.176% am PEG-100 stearate + steareth-10 + laureth- 3) Dicetyldimethylammonium chloride 1% AM 1% AM (VARISOFT 432 CG from Evonik) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 1% AM 1% AM (DEHYQUART A OR from BASF) Preservative, fragrance qs qs Water qs 100% qs 100%

[0359] The compositions A and A′ were applied to pads of natural hair trimmings weighing 100 mg, previously washed with a standard shampoo and rinsed, in a proportion of 1 ml of composition per pad of hair.

[0360] After rinsing and drying, the silicon (Si) deposition has been measured, after the hair has been ground and homogenized, via the measurement of elemental Silicon by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry using a spectrometer S8 TIGER WDXRF from BRUKER (Wavelength Dispersion) XRF system.

[0361] The following results are obtained (in micrograms/gram of hair)

TABLE-US-00007 Total Si (μg/g hair) A (invention) 166 A′ (comparative) 554

[0362] It is noted that the invention composition A makes it possible to deposit amounts of silicone moderate in comparison with comparative composition A′.

[0363] As excessively large deposits of silicone result in an unclean greasy feel (loaded or charged touch), this is unappreciated by consumers.

[0364] With the invention composition, the deposit of silicone is thinner, and the feel (touch) is more natural and more clean (clean feel).