Multi-composition cosmetic products and method for manufacturing same

Abstract

The invention relates to novel multicolour, multitexture and multimaterial cosmetic products as well as to a method for hot casting cosmetic compositions containing fats, in particular an oil. Said method advantageously renders a mold superfluous and allows the creation of products that include a plurality of compositions such as to produce highly original appearances. Said method also allows the production of products with a very irregular raised designs.

Claims

1. A casting process for the manufacture of a cosmetic product comprising: a) heating a solid composition containing an oil and having a fluidification point ranging from 30 to 150 C. and a mean hardness, as measured at 25 C. using a texture analyzer provided with a hemispherical probe, ranging from 0.5 to 80 N, to a temperature greater than said fluidification point so as to obtain a fluid composition; b) introducing the fluid composition into a casting nozzle having an orifice with a diameter ranging from 0.01 to 5 mm; c1) casting the fluid composition through the orifice at a casting temperature and at a casting flow rate ranging from 0.05 to 2 mm.sup.3/s, obtaining an ejected volume of fluid composition, dropping said ejected volume to a support thereby cooling said ejected volume to 25 C. and forming a solid deposit of the composition on said support, the solid deposit essentially retaining the form of the ejected volume at the orifice; c2) changing the nozzle position with respect to the support and moving the nozzle in at least one of the three space directions; d) halting the casting of the fluid composition, then optionally e) changing the nozzle position with respect to the support, and f) repeating a) to e) above at least one time with said composition or with another composition, wherein the other composition contains an oil, has a fluidification point ranging from 30 to 150 C., and has a mean hardness, measured at 25 C. using a texture analyzer provided with a hemispherical probe, ranging from 0.5 to 80 N, and wherein the support does not act as a container for the volume of the fluid composition, and the solid deposit has essentially the form of a sphere having a diameter ranging from 0.01 to 1 mm.

2. The casting process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the casting temperature is less than or equal to the fluidification temperature.

3. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the form of the ejected volume is identical to the form of the solid deposit, in the absence of any external mechanical or thermal stress applied to the solid deposit.

4. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mean diameter of the solid deposits is equal to the diameter of the nozzle orifice.

5. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dynamic viscosity of the fluid composition at the casting temperature and atmospheric pressure ranges from 1 to 10000 mPa.Math.s.

6. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fluidification temperature is in a range from 1 to 15 C. higher than the fluidification point of the composition.

7. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the solid composition has a dropping point of greater than 50 C.

8. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the support is a cosmetic support.

9. The process as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a step g) of casting a thermoplastic substance, wherein step g) is carried out prior to, subsequent to or at the same time as step c1).

10. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dynamic viscosity of the fluid composition at the casting temperature and atmospheric pressure ranges from 100 to 500 mPa.Math.s.

11. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the solid composition has a dropping point ranging from 70 C. to 85 C.

12. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the solid deposits are not deformed by mechanical or thermal stress subsequent to their formation on the support.

13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the solid deposits are in contact together and are arranged nonrandomly.

14. The process according to claim 1, wherein the solid composition comprises from 55 to 65% by weight of the solid composition of one or more oils, from 5 to 11% by weight of the solid composition of one or more waxes, from 10 to 30% by weight of the solid composition of one or more pasty fatty substances, and a mixture of one or more pigments and one or more fillers.

15. The process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product is a multihue, multitexture or multisubstance product.

16. The process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product is chosen from the group consisting of a makeup product, a care product, a sun protection product and a scenting product.

17. The process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic product is a product for making up lips.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

(1) FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a multihue cosmetic product obtained by the process of the invention.

(2) FIG. 2 is a diagrammatic view of a multitexture cosmetic product obtained by the process of the invention.

(3) The invention is illustrated by the following examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the values shown in the context of the present invention result from measurements carried out at 25 C. and at 1 atm (10.sup.5 Pa).

EXAMPLE 1

Multihue Lipstick

(4) Preparation of the Compositions

(5) Three compositions of different hues are prepared: a red, a purple and a pink. The three compositions differ in the natures and the relative proportions of the pigments and pearlescent agents. The ingredients of which they are composed, and also their proportions, expressed as percentages by weight, are reproduced hereinafter.

(6) TABLE-US-00001 Mixture of polyethylene, beeswax and ozokerite 12.7 Mixture of bentone and C.sub.10-C.sub.30 esters 3.4 Mixture of polyisobutene, esters, polydecene 64.5 and octyldodecanol Mixture (1) of pigments and pearlescent agents or 15.9 Mixture (2) of pigments and pearlescent agents or Mixture (3) of pigments and pearlescent agents Preservatives, active agents or fragrances q.s. for 100

(7) The compositions are obtained by mixing the ingredients with stirring at a temperature equal to 95 C. The compositions are cooled to 25 C. The hardness and the dropping points of the compositions are subsequently measured by the following methods.

(8) The hardness of the compositions was measured with a texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems, TA.XT.Plus model, by penetration of a hemispherical probe having a diameter of 12.7 mm (known as Delrin finger). The measurement was carried out in a 100 ml Cleopatra pot and it was repeated three times.

(9) The parameters of the measurement were as follows:

(10) Approach 2 mm/s

(11) Test 2 mm/s

(12) Withdrawal 2 mm/s

(13) Penetration 13 mm

(14) Relaxation 25 sec

(15) Triggering force 2 g.

(16) The dropping point was measured with a Mettler Toledo DP70 apparatus provided with standardized cups having an orifice diameter of 2.8 mm, by adopting a heat rate of 2.0 C./min, a starting temperature of 40 C. and an end temperature of 95 C. The drop is detected visually using a camera incorporated in the apparatus.

(17) The first composition has a hardness of 43.3 N and a dropping point equal to 78.2 C. The second composition has a hardness of 40.2 N and a dropping point equal to 79.4 C. The third composition has a hardness of 40.7 N and a dropping point equal to 77.5 C.

(18) Casting Device

(19) The casting device comprises a flat noncosmetic support, three nozzles and a feed means for each nozzle. Each nozzle exhibits a circular orifice with a diameter of 0.5 mm; the nozzle is connected to mechanical means which allow it to be displaced along a vertical trajectory. The support is provided with mechanical means which allow it to move in the plane which it defines.

(20) The casting device is placed in a chamber thermostatically controlled at 25 C.; it is connected to a computer which controls the means for feeding the nozzles, the displacement of the nozzles and the displacement of the support, in order to manufacture a lipstick stick comprising three hues exhibiting geometric patterns which have been predefined.

(21) Casting Process

(22) In this process, the compositions are cast by successive deposits according to a predetermined sequence programmed by control software.

(23) The first composition is fluidified at a fluidification temperature of the order of 90-95 C., introduced into the first nozzle by a first feed means and then cast at atmospheric pressure on the support in order to form a first thread of the first composition. The form of the thread deposited is defined by the movement of the support, which may follow a linear or curved trajectory during the casting. The casting of the first deposit or the first composition is halted by computer control of the means for feeding the first nozzle.

(24) The second nozzle and the support will subsequently be positioned so as to produce a first thread of the second composition, under the same conditions as those which were described above for producing the first deposit of the first composition. The casting of the first deposit of the second composition is subsequently halted.

(25) The program for controlling the means for feeding the three nozzles defines the sequence and the durations of casting of the three compositions as a function of the patterns and forms which it is desired to obtain.

(26) For example, the series of following stages can be carried out:

(27) Stage i): casting the first deposit of the first composition and then the first deposit of the second composition on the support, at an unvarying distance between the support and the nozzles, for subsequently

(28) Stage ii): increasing the distance between the support and the nozzles by a length equal to the thickness of the first deposits, and casting the first deposit of the third composition, and the second deposit of the first composition, on the deposits produced in the preceding stage, then

(29) Stage iii): increasing the distance between the support and the nozzles by a length equal to the thickness of the deposits produced in stage ii), and casting the second deposit of the second composition, and the second deposit of the third composition, on the deposits produced in stage ii),

(30) Stage iv): repeating stages i) to iii) while increasing the distance between the support and the nozzles within each stage, so as to keep unvarying, from one stage to the other, the gap between the nozzle and the surface on which the deposits have to be produced.

(31) Once the sequence of stages is terminated, the product consisting of the successive deposits is separated from the support of the device.

(32) By following this sequence, the product obtained can be a lipstick in the stick form as represented in FIG. 1. This lipstick consists of dodecahedron-shaped domains. The choice of the hues is such that the combination recreates a harmonious and attractive whole.

EXAMPLE 2

Multitexture Lip Balm

(33) Preparation of the Compositions

(34) A transparent composition (1) is prepared according to the same process as that described in example 1. The ingredients of which it is composed, and also their proportions, expressed as percentages by weight, are reproduced hereinafter.

(35) TABLE-US-00002 Phase A Bis-Dioctadecylamide Dimer Dilinoleic 21 Acid/Ethylenediamine Copolymer Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate 11 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 56 Phase B Hydrogenated styrene/methyl styrene/indene copolymer 10 Cetyl Alcohol 3.2 Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide 0.4 Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide 0.4

(36) The colored composition (2) is prepared according to the same process as that described in example 1. The ingredients of which it is composed, and also their proportions, expressed as percentages by weight, are reproduced hereinafter.

(37) TABLE-US-00003 Polyethylene, beeswax and ozokerite wax 10.2 Bentone, C.sub.10-C.sub.30 esters 25.5 Polyisobutene, esters, 60.3 polydecene and octyldodecanol Pigments and pearlescent agents 0.7 Preservatives, active agents or fragrances q.s. for 100

(38) The hardness and the dropping point of the two compositions are measured by the methods used in example 1. The composition (1) has a hardness of 6.4 N and a dropping point equal to 82.8 C. The composition (2) has a hardness of 18.3 N and a fluidification point equal to 75.4 C.

(39) Casting Process

(40) In a first step, at least one deposit of cylindrical form of the transparent composition is produced on the support.

(41) In a second step, cylindrical sections are successively cast, which sections are superimposed and each comprise deposits of the transparent composition (1) and of the colored composition (2).

(42) In a third step, at least one deposit of the transparent composition is produced until a cylinder of the desired height is formed in the continuation of the cylinder obtained in the preceding stage.

(43) The product obtained is a lip balm in the form of a stick (FIG. 2). The first transparent composition leaves glimpsed the second colored composition which forms, for example, a Mbius strip. The use of the product makes it possible to deposit, on the lips, a film which is simultaneously glossy, by virtue of the composition (1), and moisturizing, by virtue of the composition (2).

EXAMPLE 3

Multisubstance Foundation

(44) Preparation of a Composition

(45) A composition is prepared according to the same process as that described in example 1. The ingredients of which it is comprised, and also their proportions, expressed as percentages by weight, are reproduced hereinafter.

(46) TABLE-US-00004 Polyethylene wax 3 Beeswax 3 Hydrogenated glycerides 3.7 Hectorite 0.8 Esters 5.45 Oils 9.7 Liquid sunscreens 7.5 Pigments 19 Water q.s. for 100 Emollients and preservatives 5.6 Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, 4.6 cellulose gum and polymethylsilsesquioxane Solid sunscreens 1.5

(47) The hardness and the dropping point of the two compositions are measured by the methods used in example 1. The composition has a hardness of 12.8 N and a dropping point equal to 58.4 C.

(48) Casting Process

(49) Several successive deposits of the foundation composition are produced according to the process of the invention by using, as support, a three-dimensional object. The deposits are produced so as to cover the surface of the support in its entirety over an unvarying thickness, so that the support is coated and not visible.

(50) The product obtained is a foundation having a fresh and aqueous effect. The cosmetic composition is backed by the support and exhibits the same form. The cosmetic composition can be withdrawn with a brush. The support appears to the user as the composition is withdrawn. The support can be made of thermoplastic polymer and have been fashioned according to a process of casting by successive deposits, or by molding.