PROCESS FOR TREATING HAIR

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating hair wherein hair is applied two compositions one after another with an optional rinse off step in order to increase effectiveness of the active compounds comprised in only in the first composition applied onto hair.

Claims

1. A process for treating hair, comprising the steps of, in order applying to hair a composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more active ingredients selected from hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, humectants, radical scavengers, vitamins, ceramides, sterols, essential oils, amino silicones with a molecular weight less than 100,000 and UV filters and/or their respective salts and their mixtures, and surfactant; wherein if surfactant is present it is at a concentration equal to or less than 3% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition A, and leaving the composition A on the hair for a period of 1 to 60 min, either rinsing composition A from the hair or leaving composition A on the hair, applying to the hair an aqueous alkaline composition B having a pH in the range of 8.5 to 12 and leaving composition B on the hair for a period 5 to 60 min at a temperature in the range of 20 to 45 C., and rinsing composition B from the hair and drying the hair.

2. The process according to claim 1 wherein the Composition A is an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic, alcoholic or an anhydrous composition.

3. The process according to claim 1 wherein the Composition A has a pH below or equal to 8.0.

4. The process according to claim 1 wherein the Composition A comprises one or more active ingredients at a total concentration in the range of 0.001 to 15% by weight calculated to the total of the composition A.

5. The process according to claim 1 comprising the step of leaving Composition A on the hair prior to applying Composition B.

6. The process according to claim 1 wherein the one or more active ingredients in the Composition A is hydrolyzed protein which is selected from hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed milk protein, hydrolyzed silk protein, hydrolyzed soy protein and hydrolyzed avocado protein and their mixtures or is a UV filter or is a ceramide according to the following general structure ##STR00004## where R.sub.15 and R.sub.16 are independent from each other an alkyl- or alkenyl group with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R.sub.17 is alkyl or hydroxyl alkyl with 1 to 4 carbon atoms group and n is a number between 1 to 6.

7. The process according to claim 1 wherein the Composition A comprises one or more organic solvent, selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol and 1-pentanol, 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethanol and 2-benzyloxyethanol, at a total concentration in the range of 1 to 55% by weight calculated to the total the composition A.

8. The process according to claim 1 wherein the Composition B comprises one or more alkalizing agents selected from alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia and its salts such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphates such as ammonium dihydrogen phopshate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, diammonium sodium phosphate, ammonium sodium hydrogen phosphate or ammonium disodium phosphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate, ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammonium valerate, ammonium tartarate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate, ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate, guanidine and its salts such as guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine carbonate, guanidine bicarbonate, and an alkyl or alkanol amine according to the general structure ##STR00005## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different H, from C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoethanol methylamine, monoethanoldimethylamine, di-ethanolmethylamine, monoethanolethylamine, monoethanoldiethylamine, diethanolethylamine, monoethanolpropylamine, monoethanoldipropylamine, diethanolpropylamine, monoethanolbutylamine, diethanolbutylamine and amino methyl propanol and their mixtures.

9. The process according to claim 1 wherein the total concentration of one or more alkalizing agent is in the range of 0.1 to 15%, by weight calculated to the total of the composition B.

10. The process according to claim 1 wherein the composition B comprises an oxidizing agent at a concentration in the range of 0.1 to 15%, by weight calculated to the total of the aqueous composition B

11. The process according to claim 1 wherein the Composition B comprises one or more hair dyes selected from direct dyes, selected from anionic, cationic and neutral ones and/or oxidative dyes.

12. The process according to claim 1 wherein one or both of the compositions A and B comprises one or more of the thickening agent, a thickening polymer and/or one or more fatty alcohols.

13. The process according to claim 1 wherein one or both of the compositions A and B comprises one or more surfactants selected from anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and cationic ones, wherein the composition A comprises one or more surfactants at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, calculated to the total of the Compositions A, and wherein the Composition B comprises one or more surfactants at a total concentration in the range of 0.1 to 12.5% by weight, calculated to the total of the Compositions B.

14. The process according to claim 1 wherein one or both of the compositions A and B comprises cationic surfactants according to the general structure ##STR00006## wherein R.sub.8 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain with 8-22 C atoms or
R.sub.12 CO NH (CH.sub.2).sub.n where R.sub.12 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 1-4 or
R.sub.13 CO O (CH.sub.2).sub.n where R.sub.13 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain with 7-21 C atoms and n has typical value of 1-4, and R.sub.9 is H or unsaturated or saturated, branched or linear alkyl chain with 1-22 C atoms or
R.sub.12 CO NH (CH.sub.2).sub.n
or
R.sub.13 CO O (CH.sub.2).sub.n where R.sub.12, R.sub.13 and n are same as above. R.sub.10 and R.sub.11 are H or lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 Carbon atoms, and X is typically chloride, bromide, methosulfate.

15. Kit for hair, especially human hair, comprising a composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more active ingredients selected from hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, humectants, radical scavengers, vitamins, ceramides, sterols, essential oils, amino silicones with a molecular weight less than 100,000 and UV filters and/or their respective salts and their mixtures, and surfactant, wherein when surfactant is present it is at a concentration equal to or less than 3% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition A, and a composition B comprising an aqueous alkaline composition.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0078] The four Fischbach Miller hair tresses were prepared as follows:

[0079] The tress 1 was kept as untreated reference hair tress.

[0080] The tress 2 was Colored with oxidative hair dyeing composition available under the brand Goldwell Topchic shade 6N. Therefore, the Topchic 6N was mixed 6% Topchic Oxidizing Lotion at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair at a weight ratio of hair to composition of 1 to 4. After 30 minutes of processing at 40 C., tress was rinsed and shampooed with Goldwell Kerasilk Color Gentle Sulfate Free Shampoo.

[0081] The tress 3 was treated with pre-treatment for a period 5 min not comprising keratin hydrolysate as outlined below. Afterwards, without rinsing off the pretreatment, the tress was colored with oxidative hair dyeing composition available under the brand Goldwell Topchic shade 6N. Therefore, the Topchic 6N was mixed 6% Topchic Oxidizing Lotion at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair at a weight ratio of hair to composition of 1 to 4. After 30 minutes of processing at 40 C., tress was rinsed and shampooed with Goldwell Kerasilk Color Gentle Sulfate Free Shampoo.

[0082] The tress 3 was treated with pre-treatment for a period 5 min comprising keratin hydrolysate as outlined below. Afterwards, without rinsing off the pretreatment, the tress was colored with oxidative hair dyeing composition available under the brand Goldwell Topchic shade 6N. Therefore, the Topchic 6N was mixed 6% Topchic Oxidizing Lotion at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair at a weight ratio of hair to composition of 1 to 4. After 30 minutes of processing at 40 C., tress was rinsed and shampooed with Goldwell Kerasilk Color Gentle Sulfate Free Shampoo.

[0083] Pre-Treatment Composition

TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Hydrolysed Keratin* 5.0 Ethanol 35.0 Citric acid/Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 4.8 Water to 100 *added as a raw material CROTEIN CASHMERE PE-LQ from Croda which comprises 17.5% Hydrolyzed Keratin and sodium chloride, potassium sorbate and phenoxyethanol at lower concentrations.

[0084] For all tresses, cysteic acid content of the hair was analyzed with an amino acid analyzer according to the method well known in the art. The following results were obtained.

TABLE-US-00002 Cysteic acid (mol/g hair) Tress 1 42.1 Tress 2 107.9 Tress 3 99.5 Tress 4 91.2

[0085] From the above results, it is beyond any doubt that oxidative hair colouring increases the cysteic acid content of the hair. The pre-treatment with a composition without keratin hydrolysates showed slight decrease in the cysteic acid content of the hair. The clear decrease in the cysteic acid content of hair was observed with the composition comprising keratin hydrolysate.

EXAMPLE 2

[0086] Human hair tress (Tress 5) weighting approximately 3 g having a Level 9 natural colour was coloured with oxidative hair dyeing composition available under the brand Goldwell Topchic shade 4B. Therefore, the Topchic 4B was mixed 6% Topchic Oxidizing Lotion at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair at a weight ratio of hair to composition of 1 to 4. After 30 minutes of processing at 40 C., tress was rinsed and shampooed with Goldwell Kerasilk Color Gentle Sulfate Free Shampoo.

[0087] Human hair tress (Tress 6) weighting approximately 3 g having a Level 9 natural colour was was treated with pre-treatment for a period of 10 min comprising keratin hydrolysate as outlined above and afterwards without rinsing off the pre-treatment composition coloured with oxidative hair dyeing composition available under the brand Goldwell Topchic shade 4B. Therefore, the Topchic 4B was mixed 6% Topchic Oxidizing Lotion at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair at a weight ratio of hair to composition of 1 to 4. After 30 minutes of processing at 40 C., tress was rinsed and shampooed with Goldwell Kerasilk Color Gentle Sulfate Free Shampoo.

[0088] Human hair tress (Tress 7) weighting approximately 3 g having a Level 9 natural colour was coloured with oxidative hair dyeing composition available under the brand Goldwell Topchic shade 4B which is added keratin hydrolysate at the same comcnetration as for Tress 6. Therefore, the Topchic 4B was mixed 6% Topchic Oxidizing Lotion at a weight ratio of 1:1 and mixed with keratin hydrolysate and applied onto hair at a weight ratio of hair to composition of 1 to 4. After 30 minutes of processing at 40 C., tress was rinsed and shampooed with Go!dwell Kerasilk Color Gentle Sulfate Free Shampoo.

[0089] The resistance to mechanical external damage stress was determined with an automatic combing machine available from Hercules Sagemann. Therefore, the tresses were combed at both sides for 15000 times (in total 30000 times per tress) at a speed of 1 combing per second and the broken hair fibers were collected and weighted. The following results were obtained.

TABLE-US-00003 Broken hair amount in mg Tress 5 53 Tress 6 12 Tress 7 31

[0090] From the above results it is beyond any doubt that significantly less hair was collected as broken from the tress (Tress 6) pre-treated with the composition comprising the keratin hydrolysate compared to the ones either not treated with protein hydrolysate at all (tress 5) or the keratin hydrolysate comprised in the colouring composition (Tress 7).

[0091] The following examples are within the scope of the present invention.

EXAMPLE 3

Composition A

[0092]

TABLE-US-00004 Alcohol 32% Cetrimonium Chloride 0.3% Sodium Chloride 1.0% Amodimethicone 0.3% Polyquaternium-10 0.25% Hydrolized Keratin 5.0% Sodium Benzoate 0.5% Phosphoric acid q.s. pH 4.0 Water add to 100%

EXAMPLE 4

Composition A

[0093]

TABLE-US-00005 Hydrolized Milk Protein 5.0% Sodium Benzoate 0.5% Citric acid q.s. pH 4.2 Water add to 100%

EXAMPLE 5

Composition A

[0094]

TABLE-US-00006 Benzophenone-3 5.0 n-Propanol 15% Phosphoric acid/Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 5.0 Water add to 100%

EXAMPLE 6

Composition A

[0095]

TABLE-US-00007 Benzophenone-4 5.0% Sodium Benzoate 0.5% Phosphoric acid/NaOH q.s. to pH 3.8 Water add to 100%

EXAMPLE 7

Composition B

[0096]

TABLE-US-00008 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0% Ceteareth-20 1.5% Phenoxyethanol 0.27% Ethylhexylglycerin 0.03% Sodium Hydroxide adjust pH 10.2 Water add to 100%

EXAMPLE 8

Composition B

[0097]

TABLE-US-00009 Cetearyl Alcohol 14.0% Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 2.0% Cocamide MEA 3.0% Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate 1% m-Aminophenol 0.3% 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine 0.3% 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCl 0.3% Ammonium Hydroxide 2.2 Water add to 100%

[0098] The above composition had a pH 10.2. The above composition was mixed with an aqueous composition comprising 6% by weight hydrogen peroxide at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair.

EXAMPLE 9

Composition B

[0099]

TABLE-US-00010 Cetearyl Alcohol 14.0% Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 2.0% Cocamide MEA 3.0% Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate 1% m-Aminophenol 0.3% 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine 0.3% 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCl 0.3% Monoethanolamine 6.2 Water add to 100%

[0100] The above composition had a pH 10.5. The above composition was mixed with an aqueous composition comprising 6% by weight hydrogen peroxide at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair.

EXAMPLE 10

Composition B

[0101]

TABLE-US-00011 Cetearyl Alcohol 14.0% Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 2.0% Cocamide MEA 3.0% Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate 1% m-Aminophenol 0.3% 2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine 0.3% Basic red 51 0.1 Basic orange 31 0.1 Basic yellow 87 0.1 HC Red 3 0.1 Basic red 76 0.1 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCl 0.3% Monoethanolamine 6.2 Water add to 100%

[0102] The above composition had a pH 10.1. The above composition was mixed with an aqueous composition comprising 6% by weight hydrogen peroxide at a weight ratio of 1:1 and applied onto hair.