COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AN AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES

Abstract

A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, wherein: the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) that are solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, which is preferably temperature-sensitive, and the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspending capacity, which is preferably thixotropic, preferably a hydrophobic silica.

Claims

1. A composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, wherein: the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) that are solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having suspending capacity.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of natural texturing agents, semi-synthetic texturing agents, synthetic texturing agents, and the mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from natural texturing agents that are temperature-sensitive.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is comprised between 0.1% and 15% by weight in relation to the weight of aqueous phase of the said composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is comprised between 0.5% and 0.9% by weight in relation to the weight of aqueous phase of the said composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, at least one being a temperature-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of temperature-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent(s), is comprised between 0.1% and 15% by weight in relation to the weight of the aqueous phase of the said composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content by weight of aqueous phase is comprised between 1% and 30% by weight in relation to the total weight of the said composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase content is comprised between 70% and 99% by weight in relation to the total weight of the said composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent having suspending capacity is selected from among lipophilic gelling agents, either organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular; solid fatty substances at ambient temperature and pressure; and the mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic agent having suspending capacity is selected from silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of lipophilic agent(s) having suspending capacity is comprised between 0.5% and 99.50% by weight in relation to the total weight of the fatty phase, or indeed relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one oil.

14. The composition according to claim 1 comprising at least one colouring agent in the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase.

15. The composition according to claim 1, characterised in that it does not include a surfactant.

16. A non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment for treating a keratin material, comprising at least one application step of applying on to the said keratin material at least one composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of an Eye Gloss by a Non Microfluidic Method

[0472] The table below indicates the ingredients of the final composition (eye gloss) as well as the nature of the different phases that were operationally implemented.

TABLE-US-00001 Final Composition % w/w % w/w Name Supplier INCI Name Phases final Phase AQUEOUS PHASE (= Spheres (S1)) sub total 100.00 15.000 Reverse osmosis / Aqua qsp qsp A1 Water Microcare PE Thor Phenoxyethanol, aqua 0.80 0.120 A1 Microcare Thor Pentylene Glycol, aqua 2.00 0.300 A1 Emollient PTG Carbopol Ultrez 10 Lubrizol CARBOMER 0.30 0.045 A2 Agar VAHINE Agar Agar 0.30 0.045 A1 Glycerine codex INTERCHIMIE Glycerin 53.33 8.000 A3 (99%) Crystalhyal 1.0 Sodium hyaluronate 0.07 0.010 A3 EDETA BD BASF DISODIUM EDTA 0.04 0.006 A1 Sodium Hydroxide Panrac SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.05 0.008 A3 Pellets PRS Codex OILY PHASE sub total 100.00 85.000 Dub Inin Grade A Starinerie Isononyl Isononate qs qsp B1 Dubois Polybut 10 INTERCHIMIE Polybutene 37.65 32.000 B2 ASL-1 RED R-516P Daito Kasei CI 77491 (and) Sodium 0.34 0.288 B2 Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine (and) Magnesium Chloride Covalumine Triple Sensient CI 77499 (and) Alumina 1.01 0.856 B2 Black AS (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane Aerosil R812 Evonik Silica Silyate 5.88 5.000 B2 FA4002 ID Dow Corning Isododecane (and) Acrylates/ 11.76 10.000 C Polytrimethylsiloxy- methacrylate Copolymer CAS-3131 PILOT Nusil AMODIMETHICONE 0.118 0.100 B1 TOTAL 100.000 Manufacture Sodium Hydroxide 0.5000 0.0750 solution soda 10%

[0473] Preparation of the Aqueous Phase (IF)

[0474] a) The A1s are mixed together under agitation at 85 C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0475] b) A2 is added to the mixture a) without agitation which then is left to stand for a period of 15 minutes until hydration of B2 occurs; then, agitation is carried out until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0476] c) A3 is added to the mixture b) under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, in a manner so as to obtain the aqueous phase.

[0477] Preparation of the Oily Phase (OF)

[0478] a) All the B1s are mixed together under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; and

[0479] b) All the B2s are added therein until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, in a manner so as to obtain the oily OF.

[0480] Preparation of the Composition According to the Invention

[0481] a) The oily OF is available for use at 85 C. and the aqueous IF is available for use at 85 C.;

[0482] b) The aqueous IF at 85 C. Is added Into the oily OF at 85 C. under agitation; and

[0483] c) when the mixture b) is at 40 C., the C is added therein under agitation.

[0484] The eye gloss according to Example 1 exhibits both a high degree of glossy lustre and particularly satisfactory capacities in respect of hydration, freshness and comfort on application. This satisfactory degree of glossy lustre is accompanied by good performance and staying power/durability over time with the sensation upon application being acceptable in terms of tackiness (stickiness) and any resultant impedance to comfort and ease of use.

Examples 2 to 5: Preparation of Cosmetic Compositions According to the Invention

[0485] The composition according to Example 2 is a transparent formula for lip gloss obtained by means of a microfluidic method implemented in dripping mode.

[0486] The composition according to Example 3 is a fatty phase-based formula for coloured lip gloss and obtained by means of a microfluidic method in dripping mode.

[0487] The composition according to Example 4 is an aqueous phase-based formula for coloured lip gloss and obtained by means of a microfluidic method in dripping mode.

[0488] The composition according to Example 5 is a formula for lip gloss obtained by means of a microfluidic method in jetting mode.

[0489] The phases used to prepare these formulations are as follows:

[0490] Aqueous Phase (IF)

TABLE-US-00002 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 and 6 Name Supplier INCI name % w/w % w/ w % w/w % w/w Reverse Osmosis / Aqua qsp qsp qsp qsp B1 Water Microcare PE THOR Phenoxyethanol 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 B1 Microcare PTG THOR Pentylenglycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 B1 Carbopol ULTREZ 10 Lubrizol Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 B2 Glycerine codex (99%) INTERCHIMIE Glycerin 8.00 7.00 15.00 17.00 B3 Crystalhyal 1.0 Sodium hyaluronate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 B3 Agar VAHINE Agar Agar 0.50 0.48 0.90 0.55 B3 Sodium Hydroxide PANREAC Sodium Hydroxide 0.033 0.033 0.033 0.33 B3 10% solution Unicert Red K7057 J SENSIENT CI17200 0.00 0.00 0.03 0.00 B4 Total 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00

[0491] Oily Phase (OF)

TABLE-US-00003 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 Name Supplier INCI Name % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w % w/w Parleam ROSSOW Hydrogenated Polybutene 28.88 28.88 qs 26.50 0.00 A1 Cyclomethicone 5- NF Dow Corning Cyclopentasiloxane 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 qsp A1 Corporation CareSilTM CXG-1104 NUSIL Dimethicone (and) 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 14.00 A1 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Salacos 222 SACI CFPA Diisostearyl malate 31.40 26.90 0.00 qs 0.00 A1 Polybutene INTERCHIMIE Polybutene qs qs 48.45 35 0.00 A1 Aerosil R974 EVONIK Silica DimethylSilylate 4.00 4.00 3.00 300 0.00 A2 VM-2270 Dow Corning Silica silylate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.90 A2 Lipocarotte CLR CLR Glycine Soja (Soybean) oil, 0.00 4.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 A1 Daucus carota extract beta carotene tocopherol Covabsorb SENSIENT Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 0.00 0.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 A1 and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and ethylhexylsalicilate Vitamin E BASF Tocopheryl acetate 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.50 0.00 A3 Total 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00

[0492] Preparation of the Aqueous Phase (IF)

[0493] a) All the B1s are mixed together under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0494] b) All the B2s are added to the mixture a) without agitation which then is left to stand for a period of 15 minutes until hydration of B2 occurs; then, agitation is carried out until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0495] c) in parallel, a mixture is prepared with all the B3s at 90 C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained in liquid form (molten);

[0496] d) the mixture c) is added to the mixture b), under agitation at 90 C., until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, in a manner so as to obtain the aqueous phase IF; and

[0497] e) when present, all the B4s are added to the mixture d).

[0498] Preparation of the Oily Phase (OF)

[0499] a) The A1s are mixed together under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0500] b) A2 is added to the mixture a) under agitation, with agitation then being carried out until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; and

[0501] c) when present, all the A3s are added therein under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, in a manner so as to obtain the oily OF.

[0502] Preparation of the Compositions

[0503] The compositions according to Examples 2 to 5 are obtained in accordance with a microfluidic method, that is to say using a microfluidic nozzle with double casing envelope (pipe-in-pipe) construction as described in the document WO2012/120043, the inner diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.

[0504] At the level of the microfluidic device, the parameters/settings are as follows:

TABLE-US-00004 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 OF Flow rate 100 100 80 300 100 (in mL/h/nozzle) IF Flow Rate 5 5 4 35 3 (in mL/hr/nozzle) T C. OF TA TA TA TA TA T C. IF 85 90 85 90 80% IF in the final 4.76 4.76 4.76 9.1 2.91% composition OF in the final 95.24 95.24 95.24 90.9 97.09 composition Notes Dripp- Dripp- Dripp- Jett- Dripp- ing ing ing ing ing

[0505] In addition to a unique visual effect linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase and the transparency/translucency of the compositions, these compositions for lip glosses exhibit both a high degree of glossy lustre and particularly satisfactory capacities in respect of hydration, freshness and comfort on application. This satisfactory degree of glossy lustre is accompanied by good performance and staying power (durability) over time without the sensation of tackiness (stickiness) upon application nor any resultant impedance to comfort and ease of use.

[0506] Finally, the composition according to Example 6 exhibits an oily continuous phase with satisfactory transparency properties.

Example 7: Preparation of a Perfumed Concrete by a Microfluidic Method in Dripping Mode

[0507] The phases used to prepare this formulation are as follows:

[0508] Aqueous Phase (IF)

TABLE-US-00005 INCI Name Supplier Name % w/w Reverse Osmosis / Aqua qs B1 Water Carbopol ULTREZ 10 Lubrizol Carbomer 0.1 B2 Microcare PE THOR Phenoxyethanol 0.8 B1 Microcare Emollient PTG THOR Pentylenglycol 2 B1 Orange blossom water 9.94 B3 Soda 10% 0.12 B3 Agar Agar Vahine Agar Agar 0.4 B3 Dye solution 0.5% 7.93 B3 Total 100.00

[0509] Oily Phase (OF)

TABLE-US-00006 INCI Name Supplier Name % w/w Dimethicone Shin Etsu Dimethicone 9.0 A1 KF 96A 6 cts CAS 3131 NUSIL Amodimethicone 0.5 A1 Dub Inin Starinerie Isononyl qs A1 Dubois Isononate Floraesters Floratech Jojoba Esters 34.6 A2 30 Bees Wax 23.5 A2 Total 100.00

[0510] Preparation of the Aqueous Phase (IF)

[0511] a) All the B1s are mixed together under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0512] b) All the B2s are added to the mixture a) without agitation which then is left to stand for a period of 15 minutes until hydration of B2 occurs; then, agitation is carried out until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0513] c) in parallel, a mixture is prepared with all the B3s at 90 C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained in liquid form (molten);

[0514] d) the mixture c) is added to the mixture b), under agitation at 90 C., until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, in a manner so as to obtain the aqueous phase IF.

[0515] Preparation of the Oily Phase (OF)

[0516] a) The A1s are mixed together under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0517] b) on the one hand, the mixture a) is heated to 80 C. and, on the other hand, all the A2s are heated to 80 C.; and

[0518] c) the A2s in liquid form (molten) are added to the mixture a), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, in a manner so as to obtain the oily OF.

[0519] Preparation of the Composition According to the Invention

[0520] The composition according to Example 7 is obtained in accordance with a microfluidic method, that is to say using a microfluidic nozzle with double casing envelope (pipe-in-pipe) construction as described in the document WO2012/120043, the inner diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.

[0521] The parameters/settings are as follows:

TABLE-US-00007 OF Flow rate 100 (in mL/h/nozzle) IF Flow rate 7.5 (in mL/h/nozzle) T C. OF 80 T C. IF 90

[0522] The composition according to Example 7 is present in the form of a concrete of perfume at ambient temperature (AT).

[0523] In addition to a unique visual effect linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase, this composition has very significant perfuming power satisfactorily complemented with appealing sensorial properties.

Example 8: Preparation of a Cosmetic Composition (Serum) by a Microfluidic Method at Ambient Temperature

[0524] The phases used to prepare this formulation are as follows:

[0525] Aqueous Phase (IF)

TABLE-US-00008 INCI Name Supplier name % w/w Reverse osmosis / Aqua Qsp * B1 water Microcare PE THOR Phenoxyethanol 0.80 B1 Microcare PTG THOR Pentylenglycol 2.00 B1 EDETA BD BASF Disodium EDTA 0.03 B1 Glycerine codex INTERCHIMIE Glycerin 2.00 B4 (99%) ZEMEA DUPONT TATE Propanediol 3.00 B4 PROPANEDIOL & LYLE Alcasealan HAKUTO Alcaligenes 0.02 B2 Polysaccharides Carbopol ETD 2050 LUBRIZOL Carbomer 0.10 B3 Sodium Hydroxide PANREAC Sodium 0.02 B5 Pellets PRS codex Hydroxide Total 100 * Sufficient Quantity For [Quantit Suffisante Pour]

[0526] Oily Phase (OF)

TABLE-US-00009 Name Supplier INCI Name % w/w DUB ININ Grade A STEARINERIE Isononyl isononanoate Qsp A1/A2 DUBOIS Estogel M POLYMER CASTOR OIL/IPDI 2.50 A1 EXPERT COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE DUB SSIC MB STEARINERY Isocetyl Stearoyl 7.50 A3 DUBOIS Stearate DUB 810C STEA RINERIE Coco-Caprylate/ 10.00 A3 DUBOIS Caprate Meadowfoam Oil NIKKOL Limnanthes Alba 7.50 A3 CHEMICALS (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil CAS 3131 NUSIL Amodimethiconeflow 0.30 A2 Total 100

[0527] Preparation of the Aqueous Phase (IF)

[0528] a) All the B1s are mixed together under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained;

[0529] b) All the B2s are added to the mixture a) under agitation using the Silverson (2500 rpm) device until a homogeneous mixture is obtained (about 15 minutes);

[0530] c) then B3 is added therein without agitation and the mixture is left to stand so as to hydrate B3 (about 15 minutes); thereafter agitation is carried using the Rayneri apparatus until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

[0531] d) All the B4s are added to the mixture c) under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; and

[0532] e) the B5 is added to the mixture d) under agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0533] Preparation of the Oily phase (OF)

[0534] a) The A1s are mixed together under very vigorous agitation at 95 C. for a period of 1 hour;

[0535] b) In parallel, all the A2s are mixed therein under agitation at 80 C.,

[0536] b) The mixture b) is added to the mixture a) and then, agitation is carried out at 80 C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

[0537] c) all the A3s are added to the mixture b), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; and

[0538] d) the whole mixture is then allowed to cool until it returns to ambient temperature, following which it may then be used to form the composition according to example 8.

[0539] Preparation of the Composition According to the Invention

[0540] The composition according to Example 8 is obtained in accordance with a microfluidic method, that is to say using a microfluidic nozzle with double casing envelope (pipe-in-pipe) construction as described in the document WO2012/120043.

[0541] The parameters/settings are as follows:

TABLE-US-00010 OF Flow rate 129 (in mL/h/nozzle) IF Flow Rate 3 (in mL/hr/nozzle) T C. OF TA * T C. IF TA * * TA = Ambient Temperature

[0542] The composition according to Example 8 is in the form of a serum at ambient temperature (TA).

[0543] In addition to a unique visual effect linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase, the said composition exhibits both a satisfactory texture and appealing sensorial properties.

[0544] A composition according to Example 8 was also produced without amodimethicone in the oily phase; it yielded satisfactory visual effect, and texture accompanied by appealing sensorial properties.