PHOTOSTABLE COMPOSITION MADE FROM PERLITE/TITANIUM/SILICA COMPOSITE PARTICLES
20210077369 ยท 2021-03-18
Inventors
- Didier CANDAU (Chevilly Larue, FR)
- Anne MAGNAN (Chevilly Larue, FR)
- Mahassine SAFOUANE (Chevilly Larue, FR)
Cpc classification
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/0287
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/412
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/96
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
This invention relates to a composition comprising, particularly in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one aqueous phase; and b) particles with a number-average elementary size greater than 0.1 m comprising: i) a perlite matrix, ii) at least one inorganic UV filter, and iii) a silica coating, said silica representing at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composite particle.
It also relates to a makeup or treatment process using such a composition.
Claims
1. A composition comprising: a) at least one aqueous phase; and b) particles with a number-average elementary size greater than 0.1 m comprising: i) a perlite matrix, ii) at least one inorganic UV filter, and iii) a silica coating, said silica representing at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composite particle.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composite particles have a number-average elementary size varying between 0.1 and 30 m.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composite particles are present in concentrations ranging from 1 to 70 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the inorganic UV filter is chosen among metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc, iron oxides or mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the inorganic UV filter is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein perlite is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 10 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silica coating represents at least 2% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silica coating represents from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 15 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein comprises at least one oily phase.
11. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one organic UV filter.
12. A cosmetic process for the treatment and/or makeup of human keratin materials, comprising at least the application on said keratin materials of a composition according to claim 1.
13. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the composite particles are present in concentrations ranging from 1 to 70% weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the inorganic UV filter is chosen among metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc, iron oxides or mixtures thereof.
15. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the inorganic UV filter is chosen among metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc, iron oxides or mixtures thereof
16. The composition according to claim 2, the inorganic UV filter is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
17. The composition according to claim 3, the inorganic UV filter is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
18. The composition according to claim 4, the inorganic UV filter is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
19. The composition according to claim 2, wherein perlite is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 10 to 99% by weight by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
20. The composition according to claim 3, wherein perlite is present in the composite particles in a content ranging from 10 to 99% by weight by weight relative to the total weight of a composite particle.
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Preparation of Formulas and Evaluation of the Photo-Instability Thereof
[0324] The following formulas 1 to 4 are prepared according to the following protocol:
[0325] The aqueous and oily phases are prepared by mixing the raw materials under mechanical stirring at 80 C.; the solutions obtained are macroscopically homogeneous.
[0326] The emulsion is prepared by slowly introducing the oily phase into the aqueous phase under stirring using a Moritz type homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 RPM for 15 minutes.
[0327] The emulsion obtained is cooled to ambient temperature, then the remaining phases are added thereto under slow stirring.
[0328] The emulsion is characterized by droplets between 1 m and 10 m in size.
[0329] The particles of TiO2 of non-inventive example 4 are introduced into the fatty phase, while the particles made from perlite according to the invention and present in formulas 1 to 3 according to the invention are introduced into the emulsion at ambient temperature, therefore after formation of the emulsion.
[0330] The photo-instability of formulas 1 to 4 prepared is evaluated as follows:
[0331] The photocatalytic effect of TiO2 in the presence of vitamin F in the medium is detected by an increase in pentane formation. In fact, vitamin F is oxidized in UV irradiation to produce pentane.
[0332] Mixtures containing vitamin F and particles made from TiO2 were prepared; the control is the mixture with only vitamin F, without TiO2.
[0333] The sample is exposed to UV at the dose of 60 J UVA/cm2. The quantity of pentane in the bottle is assayed with and without irradiation. The photo-instability is represented by the following ratio:
Photo-Instability=(% Pentane in the presence of the particle/% pentane without the particle)*100
[0334] The particle is considered to be very photo-unstable when the percentage is close to 100%.
[0335] The preparation method of the formulas for measuring the photostability of the particles is as follows.
[0336] The aqueous phase is heated to 65 C., the emulsion is prepared by slowly introducing the oily phase into the aqueous phase under stirring using a Moritz type homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 RPM for 15 minutes. The emulsion obtained is cooled under stirring to 40 C. The emulsion obtained is cooled to ambient temperature, then the remaining phases are added thereto under slow stirring. Vitamin F and the particles are introduced one by one.
[0337] The composition of formulas 1 to 4 and the photo-instability results are presented hereinafter:
[0338] Compositions 1 to 4 each comprise 2% of TiO2 active material.
TABLE-US-00001 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 According to According to According to Non- EU INCI the invention the invention the invention Invention TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 CI 77891 (TiO2) 2 Particle according to 10.38 preparation example A coated with 3% silica (TITANIUM DIOXIDE PERLITE and 3% SILICA) Particle according to 10.375 preparation example A coated with 4% silica (TITANIUM DIOXIDE PERLITE and 4% SILICA) Particle according to 10.38 preparation example A coated with 5% silica (TITANIUM DIOXIDE PERLITE and 5% SILICA) DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 4 4 4 4 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR-1 POLYMER) ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5 5 Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 13 13 13 13 GLYCERIN 7 7 7 7 STEARIC ACID 1 1 1 1 GLYCERYL STEARATE 2 2 2 2 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (ARLACEL 165-FP-PA-(SG)) POTASSIUM CETYL 1 1 1 1 PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K) LINOLEIC ACID (and) OLEIC 6 6 6 6 ACID (and) LINOLENIC ACID (VITAMIN F ACID) Photo-Instability 72% 35% 14% 100% 60J
[0339] The results obtained therefore demonstrate that the TiO2 contained in a perlite matrix and coated with silica according to the invention is more photostable, and that this photostability increases according to the silica coating rate.
Example 2: Preparation of Formulas and Evaluation of the Stability Thereof and of Whitening on Application
[0340] The following formulas 5 to 8 were prepared as described in example 1.
The Stability of Formulas 5 to 8 is Evaluated as Follows:
[0341] The stability of the compositions according to the invention is evaluated by means of microscopic observations of the appearance thereof, specifically the state of dispersion of the particles. A composition is deemed stable when the microscopic appearance thereof and the viscosity thereof are stable at T0 and for 1 month at ambient temperature (25 C.).
The Whitening of Formulas 5 to 8 is Evaluated as Follows:
[0342] The whitening of the formulas is evaluated according to the following method:
[0343] 2 mg of the formula is deposited on a black fabric surface with a similar roughness to skin. The product is spread by applying a circular movement of 10 revolutions. The product is dried for 5 min and the whitening is evaluated, with a score of +++ for the most whitening and + for the least whitening.
[0344] The composition of formulas 5 to 8 and the instability and whitening results are presented hereinafter:
TABLE-US-00002 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Non- According to According to According to EU INCI Invention the invention the invention the invention DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs ISOHEXADECANE 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 BUTYL 3 3 3 3 METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (PARSOL 1789) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) 3 ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE (and) STEARIC ACID (MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100 T V) ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (UVINUL T 150) TEREPHTHALYLIDENE 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID (MEXORYL SX) OCTOCRYLENE 7 7 7 7 (SUNOBEL OCT) Particle according to 6.23 preparation example A coated with 3% silica (TITANIUM DIOXIDE PERLITE and 3% SILICA) Particle according to 6.23 preparation example A coated with 4% silica (TITANIUM DIOXIDE PERLITE and 4% SILICA) Particle according to 6.23 preparation example A coated with 5% silica (TITANIUM DIOXIDE PERLITE and 5% SILICA) XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 ACRYLATES/C10-30 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (PEMULEN TR- 1 POLYMER) DIMETHICONE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (BELSIL DM 350) ALCOHOL DENAT. 2 2 2 2 Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 (FINSOLV TN) GLYCERIN 6 6 6 6 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 6 6 6 6 STEARIC ACID 1 1 1 1 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 1 1 1 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (SIMULSOL 165) POTASSIUM CETYL 1 1 1 1 PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K) Whitening +++ + + + Stability 2 months 40 C. Stable Stable stable stable and 45 C.
[0345] The results show the in vitro whitening measurements of formulas comprising 2.5% by weight of TiO2 active material.
[0346] On the other hand, the whitening is lowest with the particles according to the invention (formulas 6 to 8).
[0347] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention have a high SPF and high persistent pigmentation darkening (or PPD, targeted on UVA).