FREE-CUT WARP-KNITTED ELASTIC FABRIC WITH HIDDEN CROSS STRIPE AND METHOD FOR KNITTING THEREOF

Abstract

The present invention discloses a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe and a method for knitting thereof. The method includes: making a non-elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the first guide bar and form the surface of the fabric by knitting via three needles in an open warp sateen loop mode, and making an elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the second guide bar and form the inside of the fabric by knitting with the aforementioned non-elastic yarn in the same direction via three needles in an open warp sateen loop mode. The warp-knitted fabric provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross stripe effect.

Claims

1. A method for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe, which uses a first guide bar and a second guide bar of a warp knitting machine for knitting, comprising: making a non-elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the first guide bar and form the surface of the fabric by knitting via three needles in an open warp sateen loop mode, and making an elastic yarn pass across a guide needle of the second guide bar and form the inside of the fabric by knitting with the aforementioned non-elastic yarn in the same direction via three needles in an open warp sateen loop mode.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein modes for threading of the first guide bar and the second guide bar are full-set threading.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85-120 cm/rack.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 45-75 cm/rack.

5. The method according to claim 1, wherein the non-elastic yarn is a chemical filament.

6. The method according to claim 5, wherein the fineness of the chemical filament is 11-85 dtex, preferably 22-56 dtex.

7. The method according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 22-77 dtex, preferably 22-56 dtex.

8. A fabric, wherein the fabric is produced by using the method of claim 1.

9. A garment, wherein at least a portion of a linear edge and/or a curved edge of the garment is composed of the fabric of claim 8.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0032] FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to the present invention;

[0033] FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a sports garment piece according to Application Example 1 of the present invention;

[0034] FIG. 3 is a schematic structural view of a side A of a pair of shorts according to Application Example 2 of the present invention; and

[0035] FIG. 4 is a schematic structural view of a side B of the pair of shorts according to Application Example 2 of the present invention.

DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS

[0036] The technical solution of the present invention will be further described below with reference to FIGS. 1 to 4 and by specific embodiments.

[0037] For a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe provided by the present invention, an adopted machine is a Karl Mayer HKS 2-3E type tricot warp knitting machine with a machine number of E40 and the basic structure thereof includes a let-off mechanism, a knitting mechanism, a guide bar traverse movement mechanism, a pulling and curling mechanism, a transmission mechanism, and the like. The knitting mechanism includes a needle bed, a first guide bar (GB1), a second guide bar (GB2), and the like, and a mode for threading for GB1/GB2 full-set threading. The following embodiments adopt the aforementioned machine and knitting mode. The first guide bar (GB1) threads the non-elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn is knitted in a movement mode of yarn laying digital of 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// by using a three-needle open warp sateen structure, and the second guide bar (GB2) threads the elastic yarn and the elastic yarn is knitted in a movement mode of yarn laying digital of 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1// by using a three-needle open warp sateen structure. The structural diagram of the specific fabric is as shown in FIG. 1.

Embodiment 1

[0038] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.

[0039] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a polyester straight yarn having a fineness of 22 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex.

[0040] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.

[0041] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 55 cm/rack, and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.

Embodiment 2

[0042] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.

[0043] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon round straight chevilled silk having a fineness of 22 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 33 dtex.

[0044] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.

[0045] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 85 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 45cm/rack, and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.

Embodiment 3

[0046] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.

[0047] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon matte straight yarn having a fineness of 33 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex.

[0048] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.

[0049] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 90 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 52 cm/rack, and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.

Embodiment 4

[0050] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.

[0051] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a nylon matte straight yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 75 dtex.

[0052] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.

[0053] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 105 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack, and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.

Embodiment 5

[0054] A free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe according to this embodiment includes a fabric body, and the fabric body is formed by knitting a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn in a same-direction knitting structure mode; where the non-elastic yarn forms the surface of the fabric by warp sateen weave; and the elastic yarn forms the inside of the fabric by warp sateen weave.

[0055] The non-elastic yarn is selected from a polyester draw textured yarn having a fineness of 44 dtex, and the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn having a fineness of 75 dtex.

[0056] A process for knitting a free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe is as follows: a non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp sateen loop mode in the same direction as the aforementioned non-elastic yarn through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe.

[0057] The amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 110 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack, and modes for threading of the first guide bar (GB1) and the second guide bar (GB2) are full-set threading.

Embodiment 6

[0058] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn is a nylon straight yarn having a fineness of 156 dtex, and the other knitting methodes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.

[0059] The warp-knitted fabric prepared by using the knitting mode is coarse and hard in hand feeling, and the elongation is also lowered.

Embodiment 7

[0060] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the fineness of elastic yarn is 116 dtex, and the other knitting methodes are the same as those of Embodiment 1.

[0061] In the warp-knitted fabric producing in the knitting mode, a yellow spandex yarn is exposed at the bottom of the fabric, and the elongation of the warp-knitted fabric is greatly reduced and the fabric is too hard in hand feeling, and the cloth cover quality will also deteriorate. An example is black marks at the bottom of the fabric.

Embodiment 8

[0062] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is less than that of the elastic yarn, that is, the amount of let off of the non-elastic yarn is 75 cm/rack, the amount of let off of the elastic yarn is 105 cm/rack, and the other knitting methods are the same as those of Embodiment 1.

[0063] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has uneven stitch in cloth cover quality and has a lot of defects, and the fabric has poor resilience.

APPLICTION EXAMPLE 1

[0064] The gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe produced in Embodiment 1 is woven into a sports garment piece with a schematic structural diagram as shown in FIG. 2, where edges of an apparel fabric where 2a, 2b, 2c and 2d of the sports garment piece are located do not need to undergo edge processing, a garment does not need to undergo heat bonding processing or hemming-stitch, an edge fabric can be made thin, and the garment wears comfortable.

APPLICTION EXAMPLE 2

[0065] The free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe produced in Embodiment 2 is woven into a pair of shorts including sides A and B, where the schematic structural diagram of the side A is shown in FIG. 3, and the schematic structural diagram of the side B is shown in FIG. 4. The edges of the apparel fabric where 3a, 3b and 3c are located do not need to undergo edge processing.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1

[0066] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are knitted in a different-direction knitting structure mode, and the other knitting methods are the same as those of Embodiment 1.

[0067] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode also has a hidden cross stripe effect, and does not have the free-cut characteristics.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2

[0068] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in an open warp plain stitch loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 2-3/1-0//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in an open warp plain stitch loop mode through two needles (the yarn laying digital is 1-2/1-0//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted fabric.

[0069] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has free-cut characteristics, but does not have a hidden cross stripe effect, and the cloth cover has a plain weave effect.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3

[0070] This comparative example differs from Embodiment 1 in that the non-elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the first guide bar and is knitted in a closed warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//), and the elastic yarn passes across a guide needle of the second guide bar and is knitted in a closed warp sateen loop mode through three needles (the yarn laying digital is 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//), to form a gray fabric of the free-cut warp-knitted fabric with a hidden cross stripe.

[0071] The warp-knitted fabric produced in the knitting mode has free-cut characteristics and also has a hidden cross stripe effect, but the tensile properties of the fabric are poor, and the value is smaller, which limits the scope of wearability.

[0072] Experimental Detection

[0073] (1) Tensile Property

[0074] Referring to the LTD-03 tensile force test method (Victoria's Secret customer-specific test), this standard is to test the elongation of the woven or knitted elastic fabric under the agreed tensile force; the test sample size was 93 inch, fabrics of embodiments and comparative examples were taken in the horizontal direction and the longitudinal direction, the tensile force instrument used was Zwick/Roell's H01-LLJ-004 tensile machine, using a force of 7.5 lb, with an intermediate clamping distance of 127 mm and a stretching speed of 20 in/min, and the cycle stretch was performed twice.

[0075] (2) Snagging Performance

[0076] Referring to the test method of BS-8479 Method for Determining Textile Spinning TendencyRotating Chamber Method, fabrics of the embodiments and the comparative examples were tested by snagging under the James Heal Snagging Tester instrument. The test sample size was 140*140 mm. The test samples underwent forward rotation for 50 turns at a speed of 60 r/min, and underwent reversal rotation for 50 turns; the cycle was performed 10 times, 1000 turns were performed in total, and then the samples were taken out and compared with a standard grading picture to obtain snagging grades. There are grades 1-5, grade 5 is the best, and grade 1 is the worst.

[0077] (3) Hand Feeling

[0078] Three textile industry technicians were selected to make a touch feeling on fabrics, and comprehensively evaluate the hand feeling of the fabrics. There are grades 1-5, and grade 5 is the best.

[0079] (4) Pattern Effect

[0080] Whether the free-cut warp-knitted fabric knitted according to different weave structures has a pattern effect is observed through grain appearance. The fabric which has a pattern effect is evaluated as Y, and the fabric which does not have a pattern effect is evaluated as N.

[0081] The elongation properties, snagging, hand feeling and pattern effect and other indexes of the finished fabrics obtained in Embodiments 1-8 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Elongation Snagging Hand feeling Pattern (%) (grade) (grade) effect Embodi- Lengthwise 148 3 3 Y ment 1 Widthwise 160 3.5 Embodi- Lengthwise 104 2.5 4 Y ment 2 Widthwise 154 3 Embodi- Lengthwise 114 3 3 Y ment 3 Widthwise 155 3.5 Embodi- Lengthwise 79 3.5 2.5 Y ment 4 Widthwise 100 3.5 Embodi- Lengthwise 85 2.5 3 Y ment 5 Widthwise 110 2 Embodi- Lengthwise 70 2 1 Y ment 6 Widthwise 95 2 Embodi- Lengthwise 65 2.5 1 Y ment 7 Widthwise 80 2 Embodi- Lengthwise 60 2 2 Y ment 8 Widthwise 75 1.5 Comparative Lengthwise 92 1.5 3 Y Example 1 Widthwise 135 1.5 Comparative Lengthwise 120 2.5 2.5 N Example 2 Widthwise 93 2.5 Comparative Lengthwise 75 3 3 Y Example 3 Widthwise 98 3

[0082] As can be seen from Table 1, the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe knitted with the structure according to the preset invention has an optimal yarn using collocation range combination, and the fabric knitted in this way has superiority in terms of elasticity, snagging and hand feeling.

[0083] The fabrics produced by using coarser yarns in Embodiments 6 and 7 are harder in hand feeling and poorer in elasticity, and many products are not suitable for use. In addition, fabrics obtained by adopting other structures, such as reverse yarn laying movement of Comparative Example 1 also have a hidden cross stripe effect, but do not have free-cut characteristics; Comparative Example 2 uses other same-direction yarn laying structures, has free-cut characteristics, but does not have a hidden cross stripe effect, and the cloth cover has a plain weave effect and the competitiveness is lost; Comparative Example 3 uses a three-needle closed warp sateen structure, has free-cut characteristics and also has a hidden cross stripe effect, but the tensile properties of the fabric are poor, and the value is smaller, which limits the scope of wearability. In summary, the present invention is superior to the prior art in terms of structure and properties of finished fabrics.

[0084] The free-cut warp-knitted fabric with a hidden cross stripe provided by the present invention can be arbitrarily cut, does not ravel easily, is free of hemming-stitch, and has a hidden cross stripe effect. Only by means of a knitting structure, the process for knitting the free-cut warp-knitted elastic fabric with a hidden cross stripe maintains an original cutting state without edge processing, without laser cutting and without heating bonding processing. The fabric can be produced by ordinary electric shears, and thus the cost is greatly reduced.

[0085] The above contents are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention, and for those of ordinary skill in the art, changes can be made on specific embodiments and application scopes according to the idea of the present invention. The content of the present specification should not be construed as limiting the present invention.