DISPERSION WITH A DISPERSED FATTY PHASE HAVING A HIGH PIGMENT CONTENT

Abstract

The invention relates in general to dispersions with a high pigment content, as well as to the uses thereof in the cosmetic industry, and in particular to uses thereof as a makeup composition and particularly as foundation.

Claims

1. A dispersion containing a dispersed phase comprising droplets and a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the droplets comprise at least one fatty phase, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one pigment in a content higher than 23.5 weight % relative to the weight of the fatty phase.

2. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the droplets also comprise a shell, said shell comprising at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

3. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase comprises between 24% and 60% by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

4. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the droplets having a diameter equal to or greater than 150 m represent a volume equal to or greater than 60% of the total volume of the dispersed phase and/or at least 60% of the droplets have a mean diameter equal to or greater than 150 m.

5. The dispersion according to claim 1, comprising between 1% and 76.49% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

6. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the droplets comprise a core that is liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic, and optionally a shell fully encapsulating said core, said core being monophasic or comprising an intermediate droplet of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the continuous aqueous phase or with the shell if any, and at least one inner droplet of an inner phase arranged in the intermediate droplet, the pigment(s) being contained in the intermediate phase and/or inner phase.

7. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase also comprises at least one gelling agent.

8. The dispersion according to claim 1, comprising from 0.5% to 70% by weight of gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

9. The dispersion according to claim 2, wherein the cationic polymer is a silicone polymer modified by a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function. ##STR00018##

10. The dispersion according to claim 2, comprising from 0.5% to 5% by weight of cationic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

11. The dispersion according to claim 2, wherein the anionic polymer is a polymer comprising monomer units comprising at least one carboxylic acid chemical function.

12. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase also comprises hydroxystearic acid or polyhydroxystearic acid.

13. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein: the continuous aqueous phase also comprises at least one blurring effect filler and/or at least one colouring agent selected from the group formed by pigments, colouring agents, materials having optical effect, and mixtures thereof; and/or the fatty phase also comprises at least one blurring effect filler and/or at least one colouring agent selected from the group formed by colouring agents, materials having optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

14. The dispersion according to claim 1, characterized in that the continuous aqueous phase, even said dispersion, does not comprise any surfactant.

15. A method for preparing a dispersion such as defined in claim 1, comprising the following steps: optionally, heating an oily fluid F1 and/or an aqueous fluid FE to a temperature of between 40 C. and 150 C.; contacting the aqueous fluid FE with the oily fluid Fl; and forming fatty phase droplets composed of the oily fluid F1, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase composed of the aqueous fluid FE, said droplets optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of fatty phase droplets of the dispersion, wherein: the oily fluid F1 comprises at least one oil and at least one pigment in a content higher than 23.5 weight % relative to the weight of the oily fluid Fl, and optionally at least one cationic polymer, and at least one gelling agent; and the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and optionally at least one anionic polymer.

16. A composition comprising at least one dispersion according to claim 1, optionally in association with at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

17. The composition according to claim 16, said composition being a makeup composition.

18. A non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment method of keratin material, comprising at least one step to apply to said keratin material at least one dispersion according to claim 1.

19. A method to improve the properties of a cosmetic composition, in terms of: colour shade intensity; progressive makeup result; freshness and/or hydration; kinetic stability; long-wearing property of makeup effect, in particular of coverage; and flawless coverage of colour imperfections and/or surface imperfections combined with a sensation of lightness, freshness and hydration on application which has good slip without any sensation of oiliness and/or tack, comprising the application of a dispersion according to claim 1 to a keratin material.

20. The dispersion according to claim 2, wherein the cationic polymer has the following formula: ##STR00019## where: R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, are each independently OH or CH.sub.3; R.sub.4 is a group CH.sub.2 or a group XNH where X is a C.sub.3 or C.sub.4 divalent alkylene radical; x is an integer between 10 and 5 000; y is an integer between 1 and 1 000; and z is an integer between 0 and 10.

21. A non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment method of keratin material, comprising at least one step to apply to said keratin material at least one composition according to claim 16.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0455] Unless otherwise specified, the compositions described below can be obtained with a non-microfluidic method or a microfluidic method such as described above or in WO 2017/046305 for the microfluidic method.

Example 1: Dispersion of the InventionFoundation

[0456] The compositions of the phases (fluids) are the following:

TABLE-US-00001 Name INCI name % w/w Phases AQUEOUS GEL PHASE (=OF) 100.00 A Reverse osmosis / Aqua Q.S.* A1 water (RO water) MICROCARE PE Thor PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.87 A1 MICROCARE Thor PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.17 A1 EMOLLIENT PTG CARBOPOL Lubrizol CARBOMER 0.20 A3 ETD2050 ALCASEALAN Hakuto ALCALIGENES 0.02 A2 POLYSACCHARIDES GLYCERINE Interchimie GLYCERIN, AQUA 3.26 A4 CODEX GLUCAM E20 Lubrizol METHYL GLUCETH-20 3.26 A4 HUMECTANT UNITAMURON H-22 lnduchem BUTYLENE GLYCOL, 5.43 A5 TAMARINDUS INCA SEED GUM, PHENOXYETHANOL EDETA BD BASF DISODIUM EDTA 0.03 A1 SODIUM Panreac SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.03 A6 HYDROXIDE PELLETS PRS CODEX OILY PHASE (=IF) 100.00 B ALPHAFLOW 20 The HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE Q.S.* B1/ innovation B2 company BENTONE GEL Elementis OCTYLDODECANOL AND 20.00 B2 EUG V DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE AND PROPYLENE CARBONATE PELEMOL PHS-8 Phoenix POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID 3.65 B3 Chemical ASL-1 TIO2 CR-50 Daito Kasei CI77891, Aluminium hydroxide, 38.82 B3 Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 YELLOW LL- Daito Kasei CI 77492, Sodium Lauroyl 3.85 B3 100P glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 RED R-516P Daito Kasei CI 77491, Sodium Lauroyl 1.02 B3 glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 BLACK BL- Daito Kasei CI 77499, Sodium Lauroyl 0.07 B3 100P glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride Parfum Fragrance 0.20 B4 CAS-3131 PILOT Nusil AMODIMETHICONE 0.50 B1 *Q.S.: as much as is sufficient

[0457] Preparation Protocol:

[0458] For OF:

[0459] A1: Phenoxyethanol, Pentyleneglycol and EDTA are incorporated in water. The mixture is stirred for 5 min.

[0460] A2: Alcasealan is added under rotor stator agitation (4500 rpm) for 15 min.

[0461] A3: The carbomer is then dispersed in the preceding mixture under agitation for 30 minutes using an impeller of disperser blade type.

[0462] A4: The glycerine and Glucam E20 are mixed together and this mixture added under continued agitation for 10 min.

[0463] A5: Unitamuron H-22 is added to the mixture under disperser blade agitation for 20 min.

[0464] A6: Sodium hydroxide is added and the solution mixed for 10 minutes.

[0465] For IF:

[0466] B1: Amodimethicone is added to a portion () of ALPHAFLOW 20 and mixed using a magnetic stir bar for 5 min (=mixture B1).

[0467] B2: In a beaker, the BENTONE solution is weighed. Using a pipette, mixture B1 is added to the BENTONE solution and stirred with a spatula (=mixture B2).

[0468] B3: In another beaker, the 4 ASL pigments are weighed. The PELEMOL PHS-8 is weighed in a dish with the remaining portion () of ALPHAFLOW and heated to 45 C. When melted, these are incorporated in the beaker comprising the pigments followed by homogenisation with a spatula (=mixture B3). [0469] Mixture B3 is incorporated in mixture B2.

[0470] B4: The fragrance is added under agitation until homogenisation.

[0471] Parameters for the Non-Microfluidic Method

[0472] 276 g of OF are poured into a 400 ml beaker under agitation in a Rayneri mixer (impeller: disperser blade 650 mm in diameter; speed: 250 rpm).

[0473] Under agitation, 24 g of IF are added.

[0474] This mixing is continued for 15 minutes.

[0475] Parameters for the Microfluidic Method:

[0476] In these tests, the following flow rates and parameters were used:

TABLE-US-00002 Parameters of Flow rate microfluidic method (per nozzle; in ml/h) IF 20 OF 180 BF** 21.6 **Optionally, a viscosity-increasing solution (BF) can be added to the continuous phase to improve the suspension of the droplets of the phase dispersed in the continuous phase, in particular such as described in WO2015055748. In particular this BF is a sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).

[0477] The entire method and all the phases are implemented are at ambient temperature.

[0478] Results:

[0479] Having regard to the cosmetic end use, namely a foundation, the dispersion of the invention has unique visual impact, namely brown macroscopic droplets dispersed in a transparent suspensive aqueous phase.

[0480] After application, the makeup result is unique since it is progressive (or evolving). First a faint colour shade of the skin is observed, which gradually becomes more intense. The final colour shade appears after about 45 seconds after application to the skin. The long-wearing property of this colour shade is also particularly satisfying.

[0481] In addition, an improved colour shade is observed. The makeup result of a dispersion of the invention on the skin unexpectedly imparts a particularly intense colour shade having regard to the percentage of pigments in said dispersion. This observation can be translated as excellent revealing of the pigments contained in IF in the form of macroscopic droplets.

[0482] In addition to a particularly satisfactory makeup result, the dispersion gives rise to satisfactory sensory feel on application, in particular in terms of freshness and hydration.

[0483] In general, it is observed that the dispersion according to Example 1 provides good flawless coverage of colour imperfections and/or surface imperfections combined with a sensation of lightness, freshness and hydration on application which has good slip without any sensation of oiliness and/or tack.

[0484] Finally, the dispersion in Example 1, in particular the colour shade and coverage thereof, remains stable (in particular no dephasing, opacification, colour change) after 3 months at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. This dispersion therefore has satisfactory resistance properties against sweat and moisture.

[0485] For the dispersion obtained with a microfluidic method, the droplets having a diameter equal to or greater than 150 m represent a volume equal to or greater than 60%, even equal to or greater than 70% of the total volume of the dispersed phase, and at least 60% of the droplets have a mean diameter equal to or greater than 150 m, even equal to or greater than 250 m.

Example 2: Non-Pigment and Pigmented Dispersions

[0486] Example 2 describes two compositions 2A and 2B having the following respective phase (fluid) compositions:

TABLE-US-00003 2A 2B % w/w % w/w Name INCI name Phases Phases AQUEOUS GEL PHASE (=OF) 100.00 A 100.00 A RO water / Aqua Q.S.* A1 Q.S.* A1 MICROCARE PE Thor PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.87 A1 0.87 A1 MICROCARE Thor PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 2.17 A1 2.17 A1 EMOLLIENT PTG CARBOPOL Lubrizol CARBOMER 0.20 A3 0.20 A3 ETD2050 ALCASEALAN Hakuto ALCALIGENES 0.02 A2 0.02 A2 POLYSACCHARIDES GLYCERINE Interchimie GLYCERIN, AQUA 3.26 A4 3.26 A4 CODEX GLUCAM E20 Lubrizol METHYL GLUCETH-20 3.26 A4 3.26 A4 HUMECTANT UNITAMURON Induchem BUTYLENE GLYCOL, 5.43 A5 5.43 A5 H-22 TAMARINDUS INCA SEED GUM, PHENOXYETHANOL EDETA BD BASF DISODIUM EDTA 0.03 A1 0.03 A1 SODIUM Panrac SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.03 A6 0.03 A6 HYDROXIDE PELLETS PRS CODEX OILY PHASE (=IF) 100.00 B 100.00 B DUB ININ A Stearinerie Isononyl Isononanoate Q.S.* B1 Q.S.* B1 Dubois DUB 810C/MB Stearinerie Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 10.00 B1 10.00 B2 Dubois NIKKOL NIKKO LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL, 18 B1 10 B2 MEADOWFOAM CHEMICALS TOCOPHEROL OIL Estogel M Poplymer Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer 8 B2 8 B1 Expert (70-90%), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (10-30%) CAS-3131 PILOT Nusil AMODIMETHICONE 0.20 B3 0.20 B3 ASL-1 TIO2 Daito Kasei CI77891, Aluminium 0 38.82 B2 CR-50 hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 YELLOW Daito Kasei CI 77492, Sodium Lauroyl 0 3.85 B2 LL-100P glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 RED Daito Kasei CI 77491, Sodium Lauroyl 0 1.02 B2 R-516P glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 BLACK Daito Kasei CI 77499, Sodium Lauroyl 0 0.07 B2 BL-100P glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium choride *Q.S.: as much as is sufficient

[0487] Preparation Protocol:

[0488] For OF: same protocol as described in Example 1.

[0489] For IF of composition 2A:

[0490] B1: DUB ININ A, DUB 810C/MB and NIKKOL MEADOWFOAM OIL are mixed at ambient temperature for 5 minutes.

[0491] B2: Estogel M is added to B1. The dispersion is left under agitation for 30 minutes using a disperser blade at 80 C. until homogenisation.

[0492] B3: Finally, CAS-3131 PILOT is added to mixture B2 and agitation continued for 3 minutes at 80 C.

[0493] For IF of composition 2B:

[0494] B1: DUB ININ A and Estogel M are mixed at 80 C. for 30 minutes using a disperser blade until homogenisation.

[0495] B2: In another container, DUB 810C/MB and NIKKOL MEADOWFOAM OIL are mixed, the 4 ASL pigments are added and homogenised with a spatula (=mixture B2).

[0496] Mixture B2 is gently incorporated in mixture B1 under gentle agitation at 80 C. (=mixture X).

[0497] B3: Finally, CAS-3131 PILOT is added to mixture X and agitation continued for 3 minutes at 80 C.

[0498] Parameters of the Non-Microfluidic Method

[0499] 276 g of OF are poured into a 400 ml beaker under agitation at ambient temperature in Rayneri apparatus (impeller: disperser blade of diameter 650 mm; mixing speed: 100 rpm).

[0500] Under agitation, the addition is made of 24 g of IF which has been held at 80 C.

[0501] This agitation is continued for 10 minutes.

[0502] Parameters of the Microfluidic Method:

[0503] In these tests, the following flow rates and parameters were used:

TABLE-US-00004 Parameters of the Flow rate microfluidic method (per nozzle; in ml/h) IF 20 OF 180 BF** 21.6 **Optionally, the addition can be made of a solution (BF) increasing the viscosity of the continuous phase to improve the suspension of the droplets of the dispersed phase in the continuous phase, in particular such as described in WO2015055748. This BF is particularly a sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solution.

[0504] The microfluidic device comprises a first part in which contacting is performed under heat (between 75 C. and 85-90 C.) between IF (=dispersed fatty phase) and OF (=continuous aqueous phase) to form the composition, and a second part ensuring rapid cooling of the composition thus formed to accelerate the gelling kinetics of the droplets and thereby prevent risks of post-formation coalescence of the droplets (cooling temperature: between 5 C. and 28 C.).

TABLE-US-00005 Hot water bath: 80 C. Syringe heater for IF: 80 C. Cold bath: 17.5 C.

[0505] Results:

[0506] The results and advantages of composition 2B are the same as those in Example 1.

[0507] For dispersions 2A and 2B obtained with a microfluidic method, the droplets having a diameter equal to or greater than 150 m represent a volume equal to or greater than 60%, even equal to or greater than 70% of the total volume of the dispersed phase, and at least 60% of the droplets have a mean diameter equal to or greater than 150 m, even equal to or greater than 250 m.

[0508] In addition, Example 2, in particular dispersion 2A, gives information on the properties of Estogel, in particular: [0509] gelling of an oily phase whilst maintaining very good transparency of this oily phase; [0510] improved stabilisation of a dispersion and mechanical strength of the droplets, in particular when this dispersion is macroscopic i.e. where the droplets of a dispersed phase are of large size as described above; [0511] ensured good dispersion of pigments in the oily phase; [0512] reduced sensation of tack, greasiness and adhesion of the oily phase to the skin (satisfactory, even improved sensory feel of the formula on application); and [0513] maintained satisfactory sprayability of the formula, even at high Estogel concentrations.

Example 3: Comparatives

[0514] Compositions 3A, 3B and 3B described below were obtained using a microfluidic method such as described in FR1857625, the phase (fluid) compositions being as follows:

TABLE-US-00006 2B of the 2C of the 2A comparative invention invention % w/w % w/w % w/w Name INCI name Phases Phases Phases AQUEOUS GEL PHASE (=OF) 100.00 A 100.00 A 100.00 A RO water / Aqua Q.S.* A1 Q.S.* A1 Q.S.* A1 MICROCARE Thor PHENOXYETHANOL, 1.14 A1 1.14 A1 1.14 A1 PE AQUA PENTIOL Minasolve PENTYLENE GLYCOL, 2.85 A1 2.85 A1 2.85 A1 GREEN + AQUA CARBOPOL Lubrizol CARBOMER 0.26 A3 0.26 A3 0.26 A3 ETD2050 ALCASEALAN Hakuto ALCALIGENES 0.03 A2 0.03 A2 0.03 A2 POLYSACCHARIDES GLYCERINE Interchimie GLYCERIN, AQUA 4.28 A4 4.28 A4 4.28 A4 CODEX UNITAMURON Induchem BUTYLENE GLYCOL, 7.14 A5 7.14 A5 7.14 A5 H-22 TAMARINDUS INCA SEED GUM, PHENOXYETHANOL EDETA BD BASF DISODIUM EDTA 0.04 A1 0.04 A1 0.04 A1 SODIUM Panrac SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.03 A6 0.03 A6 0.03 A6 HYDROXIDE PELLETS PRS CODEX OILY PHASE (=IF) 100.00 B 100.00 B 100.00 B MYRITOL 318 Ami Chimie CAPRYLIC CAPRIC Q.S.* B1 Q.S.* B1 Q.S.* B1 TRIGLYCERIDES B4 B4 B5 ISODODECANE INEOS ISODODECANE 10.00 B2 10.00 B2 10.00 B2 MEADOWFOAM FANCOR LIMNANTHES ALBA 13.30 B2 13.30 B2 13.30 B2 SEED OIL (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL COSMEDIA Elementis DICAPRYLYL 8.33 B2 8.33 B2 8.33 B2 GEL CC CARBONATE AND STEARALKONIUM HECTORITE AND PROPYLENE CARBONATE PELEMOL Phoenix POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC 0 B5 0 B5 1.67 B5 PHS-8 Chemical ACID SUNSHINE Sunchemicals SYNTHETIC 3.33 B3 3.33 B3 3.33 B3 FINE WHITE FLUORPHLOGOPITE CAS-3131 Nusil AMODIMETHICONE 0.33 B1 0.33 B1 0.33 B1 PILOT ASL-1 TIO2 Daito Kasei CI77891, Aluminum 0 B4 33.32 B4 33.32 B4 CR-50 hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 YELLOW Daito Kasei CI 77492, Sodium 0 B4 4.86 B4 4.86 B4 LL-100P Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 RED Daito Kasei CI 77491, Sodium 0 B4 1.22 B4 1.22 B4 R-516P Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium chloride ASL-1 BLACK Daito Kasei CI 77499, Sodium 0 B4 0.60 B4 0.60 B4 BL-100P Lauroyl glutamate, Lysine, Magnesium choride *Q.S.: as much as is sufficient

[0515] Preparation Protocol:

[0516] For OF: same protocol as described in Example 1.

[0517] For IF:

[0518] B1: Depending on the compositing under consideration, amodimethicone is added to all or part () of MYRITOL 318 then mixed with a magnetic stir bar for 5 min (=mixture B1).

[0519] B2: In a beaker, COSMEDIA GEL CC, ISODODECANE and MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL are mixed together. Using a pipette, mixture B1 is slowly added to the aforementioned beaker and mixed with a spatula (=mixture B2).

[0520] B3: Under agitation, SUNSHINE FINE WHITE is added to mixture B2 (=mixture B3).

[0521] B4: If used, in another beaker the 4 ASL pigments are weighed with the remaining portion of MYRITOL 318 (or of PELEMOL PHS-8 if used), and this mixture is slowly added to mixture B3 (=mixture B4).

[0522] B5: If used, the PELEMOL PHS-8 is weighed in a dish with the remaining portion () of MYRITOL 318 and heated to 45 C. Once melted, it is incorporated in the beaker comprising the pigments and homogenised with a spatula (=mixture B5). Mixture B5 is incorporated in mixture B4.

[0523] Parameters of the Microfluidic Method:

[0524] In these tests, the following flow rates were used:

TABLE-US-00007 Flow rate Phase (per buse; in ml/h) IF 142.8 OF 288 BF 15.2 BF = 10% sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH).

[0525] Results:

[0526] Samples of compositions 3A, 3B and 3C were collected. From these samples and using cellSens software, the diameter of 30 droplets was measured under a microscope.

[0527] FIG. 1 shows the droplet size distribution of these compositions 3A, 3B and 3C.

[0528] This comparative example confirms that the use of pigments in the fatty phase of a dispersion of the invention (composition 3B) leads to a reduction in droplet size compared with one same dispersion devoid of any pigment (composition 3A).

[0529] This comparative example also shows that the addition of PELEMOL (composition 3C) allows this reduction in droplet size to be offset (observed with composition 3B), and even allows a droplet size to be obtained that is greater than that obtained with composition 3A.