FOAMING AQUEOUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING SPICULISPORIC ACID, AN ALKYL POLYGLYCOSIDE AND A POLYSACCHARIDE

Abstract

The present invention relates to an aqueous foaming composition comprising spiculisporic acid, at least one base, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglycosides, and at least one polysaccharide, and also to the use of said composition especially in the cosmetic field, as a product for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibres (eyelashes and hair) or the scalp, and also for treating greasy skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp. The composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to obtain a clear foaming gel, which has a good level of viscosity and good cosmetic qualities, mainly good makeup-removing power and good foam properties (start, quality, quantity, stability and persistence), in particular when it is combined with a self-foaming device. The foam obtained has a good foam start, forms in large amount and is stable over time, which gives the composition a satisfactory application time (or play time).

Claims

1. A foaming aqueous composition comprising spiculisporic acid, at least one base, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglycosides, and at least one polysaccharide, in which the ratio R1 of the number of moles of base to the number of moles of spiculisporic acid is strictly greater than 1.

2. The composition according to claim 1, in which the base is chosen from arginine, triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, in which the content of spiculisporic acid ranges from 0.1% to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1, in which the ratio R.sub.1 is strictly greater than 1 and less than or equal to 2.5.

5. The composition according to claim 1, in which the alkyl polyglycoside(s) correspond to formula (II) below:
RO-(G).sub.a in which: the radical R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the group G is a saccharide residue; a is a number ranging from 1 to 10.

6. The composition according to claim 5, in which the saccharide residue is chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch, the saccharide residue.

7. The composition according to claim 5, in which the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and cocoyl glucoside.

8. The composition according to claim 1, in which the alkyl polyglycoside(s) are present in an active material (AM) content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, in which the mass ratio R.sub.2 of the mass of surfactants chosen from alkyl polyglycosides to the mass of spiculisporic acid is less than or equal to 12.5.

10. The composition according to claim 1, in which the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from pectin, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof such as hydroxypropyl guar, pullulan and hyaluronic acid.

11. The composition according to claim 1, in which the polysaccharide(s) are present in an amount of between 0.1% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A cosmetic device for treating keratin materials comprising an aqueous composition comprising spiculisporic acid, at least one base, at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkyl polyglycosides, and at least one polysaccharide, in which the ratio R1 of the number of moles of base to the number of moles of spiculisporic acid is strictly greater than 1; and a foam dispenser for dispensing said composition in the form of a foam, especially a non-aerosol foam.

13. A cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from a keratin material in which a composition as defined in claim 1 is applied to said keratin material.

14. The process according to claim 13, in which the composition is applied in foam form.

15. A cosmetic process for cleansing and/or removing makeup from skin which comprises applying the composition as defined in claim 1 to said skin.

16. The composition according to claim 1, in which the content of spiculisporic acid ranges from 0.5% to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

17. The composition according to claim 1, in which the content of spiculisporic acid ranges from 0.8% to 5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 2, in which the content of spiculisporic acid ranges from 0.1% to 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

19. The composition according to claim 2, in which the ratio R.sub.1 is strictly greater than 1 and less than or equal to 2.5.

20. The composition according to claim 3, in which the ratio R.sub.1 is strictly greater than 1 and less than or equal to 2.5.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0151] The examples below are performed on a neutral support of SkinFX type, which is an in vitro support mimicking the relief and biomechanical properties of the skin, generally made of silicone gum on which is superposed a very thin layer of polyurethane. Various colours exist, similar to the various skin colours existing in the world.

Protocol for Evaluating the Makeup-Removing Power

[0152] The makeup-removing power of the various test compositions is evaluated in the following manner.

[0153] The tests are performed on thick white SkinFX (reference SKINFX-SH-H40-BAK-WHI). The foundation used is the Infaillible 24 h tenue et confort teinte 220 foundation from L'Oral Paris.

[0154] The surface of the SkinFX is cleansed and dried. The naked surface is then measured by colorimetry (measurements of L, a and b for three zones).

[0155] 14 l of foundation are then applied to the surface to be freed of makeup. The foundation is applied by finger by performing 15 passes of 15 seconds over the surface to be freed of makeup. The SkinFX is dried at 32 C. for 15 minutes on a hotplate. The made-up surface is then measured by colorimetry (measurements of L, a and b for three zones).

[0156] 0.4 g of foam is generated using a self-foaming device and applied to the surface to be freed of makeup. The foam is sheared by finger for 20 seconds. A pad of cotton wool soaked with 2 ml of water is then passed over the surface, followed by a second pad of cotton wool also soaked with 2 ml of water. The colorimetric measurement is taken on the SkinFX to measure the amount of foundation remaining (measurements of L, a and b for three zones). The value making it possible to evaluate the makeup-removing power of a composition is the percentage of makeup removal (E/Emax)*100 calculated as indicated below.

[0157] Calculation of the percentage of makeup removal

[0158] 1) Colorimetric difference of the made-up skin relative to the naked skin=Emax:

E max={square root over ()}(a.sub.1.sup.2+b.sub.1.sup.2+L.sub.1.sup.2) with

a.sub.1=a naked skina made-up skin

b.sub.1=b naked skinb made-up skin

L.sub.1=L naked skinL made-up skin

[0159] 2) Colorimetric difference of the makeup-removed skin relative to the made-up skin=E:

E={square root over ()}(a.sub.2.sup.2+b.sub.2.sup.2+L.sub.2.sup.2) with

a.sub.2=a makeup-removed skina made-up skin

b.sub.2=b makeup-removed skinb made-up skin

L.sub.2=L makeup-removed skinL made-up skin

[0160] The mean percentage of makeup removal corresponds to the mean of the three values of (E/E max)*100 for a given makeup-removing product.

Protocol for Evaluating the Foam Properties

[0161] The foam texture is measured according to the following protocol:

[0162] The foams are prepared using a self-foaming device containing the formulations to be evaluated, by exerting four successive presses so as to generate a sufficient volume of foam for the measurement. The container is then levelled off using a spatula so as to have a surface that is as uniform as possible.

[0163] The texture of the foams obtained with the test compositions is characterized using a TA.XT.plus texturometer from Stable Micro System, equipped with a head which can detect a maximum force of 50 N. The geometry used is a polycarbonate A/BE cell, constituted of a cylindrical container (height=70 mm, diameter=50 mm) and a disc (height=5 mm, diameter=45 mm) connected to the measuring head via a metal stem. The measurements are taken by back-extrusion, a force as a function of time is recorded, corresponding to the outward cycles (penetration of the module into the sample) and to the return cycle (extraction of the module from the sample). The following parameters are extracted from these curves: maximum outward force or firmness, area under the outward curve or consistency, maximum extraction force or cohesion force and area under the extraction curve or viscosity index. The recording parameters for these curves are as follows: pre-test speed of 2 mm/s, test speed of 1 mm/s, post-test speed equal to that of the test, and depth of penetration into the sample of 8 mm.

[0164] The options selected for this measuring method are the following:

[0165] Test mode: Compression measurement;

[0166] Test speed 1.0 mm/s;

[0167] Temperature 20 C.1 C.

[0168] The results presented correspond to the mean value of the area under the outward curve for the two measurements taken on each composition.

Comparative Examples

[0169] The following compositions are produced.

TABLE-US-00001 1 2 3 4 5 Composition (invention) (invention) (invention) (invention) (invention) Spiculisporic acid, sold by 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Iwata Chemicals L-Arginine, sold by 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Ajinomoto (50/50 C8/C10)alkyl 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 polyglucoside as a buffered 60% aqueous solution (Oramix CG 110 from SEPPIC) Glycerol 1 1 1 1 1 1,3-Propanediol 3 3 3 3 3 Demineralized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Pectin 2 (Unipectine OF 600 C SB from Cargill) Sodium alginate (poly 0.25 mannuronate and guluronate) (Protanal PH6160 from FMC Corporation) Hydroxypropyl guar 0.5 (Jaguar HP105 from Solvay) Pullulan 2 (Pullulan Cosmetic Grade from Haya Shibara) Sodium hyaluronate (MW: 1 0.1 100 000) powder

TABLE-US-00002 Composition 6 (comparative) 7 (comparative) Spiculisporic acid, sold by 0.8 1.8 Iwata Chemicals L-Arginine, sold by Ajinomoto 0.7 1.6 (50/50 C8/C10)alkyl 1.7 polyglucoside as a buffered 60% aqueous solution (Oramix CG 110 from SEPPIC) Glycerol 1 1 1,3-Propanediol 3 3 Demineralized water qs 100 qs 100

Composition Preparation Method:

[0170] Compositions 1 to 7 were all prepared according to the same procedure at room temperature. Spiculisporic acid is weighed out and added to water with mechanical stirring using a Rayneri blender (300 rpm). A dispersion is obtained. The amount of arginine required to form the spiculisporic acid mono-salt (preferentially 1.1 equivalents) is added, and the mixture is stirred for 10 minutes until the two compounds have totally dissolved. Finally, the alkyl polyglycoside is added with stirring until fully dissolved. The polysaccharide is added at the end of manufacture, with continued stirring. The stirring needs to be kept low to prevent the mixture from foaming during the manufacture.

[0171] Compositions 1, 2, 6 and 7 are evaluated in terms of makeup removal. The results obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00003 % makeup Formulation No. L a b removal Naked SkinFX 96.39 0.6 4 Made-up SkinFX 69.6 15.05 31.02 0 Composition 7 79.94 9.78 23.41 33.7 (comparative) Composition 6 84.67 6.08 17.12 54.4 (comparative) Composition 1 89.52 3.94 14.57 68.4 (invention) Composition 2 87.12 5.21 16.3 60.5 (invention)

[0172] These results show that spiculisporic acid alone functions only moderately in terms of makeup removal. When it is combined with an alkyl polyglycoside, with an equal concentration of emulsifiers, the makeup-removing results are improved. When the composition also comprises a polysaccharide, its makeup-removing power is markedly improved.

[0173] Compositions 1 to 7 are evaluated in terms of foam quality. The results obtained are as follows:

TABLE-US-00004 Positive area (g .Math. sec) Composition 7 (comparative) 60.65 Composition 6 (comparative) 54.8 Composition 1 (invention) 99.55 Composition 2 (invention) 114.49 Composition 3 (invention) 89.01 Composition 4 (invention) 78.44 Composition 5 (invention) 72.53

[0174] These results show that the foam quality is markedly better when the composition comprises, in combination, spiculisporic acid, an alkyl polyglycoside and a polysaccharide.