PROCESS FOR THE COSMETIC TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBRES USING A DETERGENT COMPOSITION AND A RARE EARTH METAL COMPOSITION

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, implementing the application of a composition comprising at least one surfactant, and the application of a composition comprising a particular metal compound and a conditioning agent chosen from cationic surfactants and/or fatty alcohols.

Claims

1. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, comprising: i) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (A) comprising one or more surfactants chosen from anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. ii) a step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition (B) comprising one or more compounds of a metal belonging to the group of the rare earth metals, and one or more conditioning agents chosen from cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, then iii) a step of rinsing said keratin fibres.

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that said anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfates, sulfonates and carboxylic surfactants, and mixtures thereof preferably from C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl sulfates, C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl ether sulfates, C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl sulfosuccinates, C.sub.6-C.sub.24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)acylisethionates, C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylsarcosinates, (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl ether carboxylates, polyoxyalkylenated (C.sub.6-C.sub.24)alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylglutamates, C.sub.6-C.sub.24 acylglycinates, and mixtures thereof.

3. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that said amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido(C.sub.3-C.sub.8)alkylbetaines, (C.sub.8-C.sub.20)alkylamido(C.sub.6-C.sub.8)alkylsulfobetaines, and the compounds of formula (3):
R.sub.a—CONHCH.sub.2CH.sub.2—N.sup.+(R.sub.b)(R.sub.c)—CH.sub.2COO.sup.−,M.sup.+,X.sup.− in which: R.sub.a represents a C.sub.10 to C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH; R.sub.b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and R.sub.c represents a carboxymethyl group; M.sup.+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and X.sup.− represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl- or (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylarylsulfonates; or alternatively M.sup.+ and X.sup.− are absent; and mixtures thereof.

4. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of said surfactant(s) chosen from anionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, is greater than or equal to 4% by weight, preferably ranges from 4% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the detergent composition (A).

5. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal of the group of the rare earth metals is chosen from cerium, yttrium, ytterbium, lanthanum and europium.

6. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal belonging to the group of the rare earth metals is in the +III oxidation state.

7. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal compound(s) are chosen from rare earth metal salts, rare earth metal complexes or rare earth metal oxides.

8. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal compound(s) are chosen from compounds combined with a monoatomic or non-monoatomic monoanionic ion, compounds combined with a di- or trianionic ion, compounds combined with a ligand comprising one or more groups forming a coordination bond and a function forming an ionic bond, rare earth metal oxides, and mixtures thereof preferably from yttrium dihydroxyacetate, cerium chloride, yttrium chloride, lanthanum chloride, Ce(acetonate)3, cerium oxide, lanthanum oxide, yttrium oxide, erbium oxide, scandium oxide, ytterbium oxide and europium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

9. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of said metal compound(s) is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.25% by weight, more preferentially ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

10. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that said cationic surfactant(s) of the composition (B) are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

11. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that said fatty alcohol(s) of the composition (B) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

12. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of said conditioning agent(s) chosen from cationic surfactants and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, ranges from 1.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

13. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition (B) also comprises one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from thickeners of mineral or organic origin, more preferentially from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or mixtures thereof.

14. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition (B) is applied directly after applying the composition (A), without an intermediate step of rinsing the keratin fibres.

15. Multi-compartment kit or device comprising a first compartment containing a detergent composition (A) as defined according to claim 1, and a second compartment containing a composition (B).

Description

EXAMPLES

[0313] In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given, unless otherwise indicated, as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

a) Compositions

[0314] The composition (A) was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Composition A Sodium laureth sulfate at 20 70% in water.sup.(1) Cocoamidomethylbetaine at 12 30% in water.sup.(2) pH Agent qs pH 5 Water qs 100 .sup.(1)sold under the name Texapon N702 by BASF .sup.(2)sold under the name Dehyton AB 30 by BASF

[0315] The composition BO (comparative) and the compositions B1, B2, B3 and B4 (according to the invention) were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Compositions B B0 B1 B2 B3 B4 Glyceryl stearate.sup.(3) 1 1 1 1 1 Dipalmitoylethyl- 5 5 5 5 5 hydroxyethyl methylammonium methosulfate/cetearyl alcohol (30/70).sup.(4) Glycerol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Cetyltrimethylammonium 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 chloride as an aqueous.sup.(5) Yttrium hydroxyacetate — 20 — — — Hydrated cerium chloride.sup.(6) — — 20 — — Hydrated yttrium chloride.sup.(7) — — — 20 — Hydrated lanthanum — — — — 20 chloride.sup.(8) pH Agent qs qs qs qs qs pH 4 pH 4 pH 4 pH 4 pH 4 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 .sup.(3)sold under the name Tegomul 6070 by Evonik Goldschmidt .sup.(4)sold under the name Dehyquart F30 by BASF .sup.(5)sold under the name Dehyton A OR by BASF .sup.(6)sold under the name CeCl.sub.3 .Math. 7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(7)sold under the name YCl.sub.3 .Math. 6H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(8)sold under the name LaCl.sub.3 .Math. 7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich

b) Procedure

[0316] 20 g of locks of bleached hair (Platifiz) (of 2.7 g) are shampooed by applying to wet hair 10 g of composition A with a leave-on time of 5 minutes.

[0317] Then, with or without intermediate rinsing, 10 g of composition B0, B1, B2, B3 or B4 are applied with a leave-on time of 10 minutes.

[0318] According to the process of the invention, after application of the composition B (B0, B1, B2, B3 or B4), the locks are rinsed under a stream of water for 6 seconds at 10 l/min, that is to say a volume of water of 1 l.

[0319] The cosmetic properties of the hair are then evaluated by evaluating the glidant feel of the locks, which is representative of the presence or absence of the compositions A and/or B, on a scale of 0 to 5, with:

[0320] 0: no glidant effect, the hair is perfectly free of the compositions A and/or B,

[0321] 5: strong presence of residues on the hair, requiring a need to continue rinsing.

[0322] The rinsing is then continued. The moment when the hair is sufficiently free of residues to be able to stop the stream of water is thus evaluated by passing the hair under the fingers. The total amount of water used is then noted.

[0323] The hair is then disentangled, while noting the ease with which a comb passes through it, on a scale of 0 to 10, with: 0=impossible to disentangle, 10: very easy to disentangle.

[0324] Then, once the hair is disentangled, it is dried with a hair-dryer using the hot air flow. The lightness of the hair is then noted by evaluating by feel whether the hair forms a compact whole (grade=0) or, on the contrary, an assembly of total individualized strands of hair (grade=5).

c) Results

[0325] The results of the various evaluations are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Protocol Evaluation Cosmetic Disen- properties after Total tangling of Lightness Intermediate Com- passing under Complete amount the wet hair of the rinsing position a 1 l stream rinsing of water after rinsing dry hair (5 min after B of water (in litres used* (in (grade 0 (grade 0 Test shampooing) (10 min) (grade 0 to 5) of water) litres) to 10) to 5) Test Composition No B1 2 5 5 9 4 No. 1 A Test Composition No B2 2 6.5 6.5 9 4 No. 2 A Test Composition No B3 1 5.1 5.1 9 4.5 No. 3 A Test Composition No B4 1 5.8 5.8 7 4 No. 4 A Test Composition No B0 5 8.9 8.9 3 3.7 No. 5 A Test Composition Yes — — — 4.5 2.1 4.25 No. 6 A Test Composition Yes B0 2.5 5 9.5 9 2 No. 7 A *The total amount of water used represents the amount of water used during the optional intermediate rinsing, during the passing under a 1 l stream of water and during the complete rinsing.

[0326] In test No. 7, in which a shampooing operation (composition A), a rinsing operation, a care treatment without rare earth metal (composition BO) and then a rinsing operation are carried out, the total amount of water required to obtain complete rinsing is 9.5 l. The hair is easy to disentangle, but is not very well separated into individual strands and does not therefore have a light appearance.

[0327] In test No.5, in which a shampooing operation (composition A), a care treatment without rare earth metal (composition BO) without intermediate rinsing and then a final rinsing operation are carried out, the hair has a considerable glidant feel (grade of 5) and it is necessary to rinse the hair abundantly in order to completely rid it of the residues of the compositions A and BO. Despite the absence of intermediate rinsing, the total amount of water required in this test in order to obtain complete rinsing is large (8.9 l). Furthermore, disentangling of the hair is difficult; it is comparable to that observed in test No. 6 in which the hair is subjected to a shampooing operation (composition A), but not a care treatment with a composition B.

[0328] In tests Nos. 1 to 4, in which a shampooing operation (composition A), a care treatment comprising a rare earth metal (composition B1, B2, B3 or B4) without intermediate rinsing and then a final rinsing operation are carried out, the hair has a feel that is not very glidant after passing under a 1 l stream of water. The amount of water required for complete rinsing, and therefore the total amount of water used, is therefore reduced (between 5 l and 6.5 l). Furthermore, the hair can be very easily disentangled after rinsing and the strands of hair are well separated after drying, giving the head of hair a light appearance.

[0329] Thus, the process according to the invention, using a shampoo comprising at least one surfactant chosen from anionic and/or amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and a composition comprising a rare earth metal in the +III oxidation state, makes it possible to obtain the best results in terms of water saving and a significant care effect, in particular in terms of disentangling and lightness of the hair.

Example 2

[0330] The same test as in Example 1 is carried out by repeating the protocol 3 times.

[0331] The results of the various evaluations are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Protocol carried out 3 times Evaluation carried out at the time of the 3rd protocol Cosmetic Disen- properties after tangling of Lightness Intermediate passing under Complete Total the wet hair of the rinsing a 1 l stream rinsing amount of after rinsing dry hair (5 min after Comp B of water (in litres water used* (grade 0 (grade 0 Test shampooing) (10 min) (grade 0 to 5) of water) (in litres) to 10) to 5) Test Comp A No B1 1.5 4.5 4.5 9 4.25 No. 8 Test Comp A No B2 1.5 5.5 5.5 9 4 No. 9 Test Comp A No B3 0.75 4 4 9 4.75 No. 10 Test Comp A No B4 1 5 5 8 4.25 No. 11 Test Comp A No B0 5 9.5 9.5 3 3.25 No. 12 Test Comp A Yes — — — 5 1.75 4.25 No. 13 Test Comp A Yes B0 2.75 5.5 10 9 0.75 No. 14 *The total amount of water used represents the amount of water used during the optional intermediate rinsing, during the passing under a 1 l stream of water and during the complete rinsing.

[0332] In test No. 4, in which a shampooing operation (composition A), a rinsing operation, and a care treatment without rare earth metal (composition BO), this protocol being repeated three times, and then a rinsing operation are carried out, the total amount of water required to obtain complete rinsing is 10 l. The hair is easy to disentangle, but is not very well separated into individual strands and does not therefore have a light appearance.

[0333] In tests Nos. 8 to 10, in which a shampooing operation (composition A), and a care treatment comprising a rare earth metal (composition B1, B2, B3 or B4) without intermediate rinsing, this protocol being repeated three times, and then a final rinsing operation are carried out, the hair has a feel that is not very glidant after passing under a 1 l stream of water. The amount of water required for complete rinsing, and therefore the total amount of water used, is therefore reduced (between 4 l and 5.5 l). Furthermore, the hair can be very easily disentangled after rinsing and the strands of hair are well separated after drying, giving the head of hair a light appearance.

[0334] It is also noted that the repeating of the protocol in tests Nos. 8 to 10 makes it possible to increase the satisfaction, notably in terms of lightness of the hair, compared to tests Nos. 1 to 4. The repeating of the protocol also makes it possible to obtain a greater water saving than that observed in tests Nos. 1 to 4 above.

[0335] Repeated applications therefore make it possible to increase the advantages.

Example 3

a) Compositions

[0336] The compositions G1 and G2 were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Compositions G G1 G2 Glyceryl stearate.sup.(3) 1 1 Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium 5 5 methosulfate/cetearyl alcohol (30/70).sup.(4) Glycerol 0.8 0.8 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride as an aqueous 3.5 3.5 solution.sup.(5) Yttrium hydroxyacetate 6.7 Hydrated cerium chloride.sup.(6) — 6.7 Hydrated yttrium chloride.sup.(7) — — Hydrated lanthanum chloride.sup.(8) — — pH Agent qs pH 4 qs pH 4 Water qs 100 qs 100 .sup.(3)sold under the name Tegomul 6070 by Evonik Goldschmidt .sup.(4)sold under the name Dehyquart F30 by BASF .sup.(5)sold under the name Dehyton A OR by BASF .sup.(6)sold under the name CeCl.sub.3 .Math. 7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(7)sold under the name YCl.sub.3 .Math. 6H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich .sup.(8)sold under the name LaCl.sub.3 .Math. 7H.sub.2O by Sigma-Aldrich

b) Results

[0337] Locks are treated according to the protocol of Example 2, then treated with the protocol detailed in Table 6, that is to say by again repeating the protocol 3 times.

[0338] The results of the various evaluations are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Protocol carried out 3 times Evaluation carried out at the time of the 3rd protocol Cosmetic Disen- properties after Total tangling of Lightness Intermediate Com- passing under Complete amount the wet hair of the rinsing position a 1 l stream rinsing of water after rinsing dry hair (5 min after B of water (in litres used* (in (grade 0 (grade 0 Test shampooing) (10 min) (grade 0 to 5) of water) litres) to 10) to 5) Test Com- No G1 2 5.5 5.5 8.5 4 No. 15 position A Test Com- No G2 2.75 6.5 6.5 8 3 No. 16 position A Test Com- No B3 1.5 5 5 9 4.25 No. 17 position A Test Com- No B4 2 5.5 5.5 8 4 No. 18 position A Test Com- No B0 5 9.5 9.5 3 3.25 No. 19 position A Test Com- Yes — — — 5 1.75 4.25 No. 20 position A Test Com- Yes B0 2.75 5.5 10 9 0.75 No. 21 position A *The total amount of water used represents the amount of water used during the optional intermediate rinsing, during the passing under a 1 l stream of water and during the complete rinsing.

[0339] The disentangling and the rinsing waters are noted after the 3 applications of the protocol. It is observed that, despite a reduced amount of rare earth metal, the advantages detected above are kept.

Example 4

a) Composition

[0340] The composition E was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Composition E Cocoglucoside at 50% in water.sup.(9) 20 Water qs 100 .sup.(9)sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP by BASF

b) Procedure

[0341] 20 g of locks of bleached hair (Platifiz) (of 2.7 g) are shampooed by applying to wet hair 10 g of composition E with a leave-on time of 5 minutes.

[0342] Then, with or without intermediate rinsing, 10 g of composition B3 as described above are applied with a leave-on time of 10 minutes.

[0343] According to the process of the invention, after application of the composition E, the locks are rinsed with a volume of water of 5 l.

c) Results

[0344] Hair that is easy to disentangle, and has a clean appearance once dry, with a pronounced care effect and a texture effect is obtained.