SKINCARE PRODUCT AND MULTI-DIMENSIONAL ASCORBIC ACID SERUM FORMULATION THEREFOR

20230048204 · 2023-02-16

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    A skincare product having packaged in a container a stable and effective ascorbic acid (vitamin C) serum formulation formulated from a skincare composition and a composition therefor. The composition comprises several types of hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules in their respective suitably selected concentration ranges, several types of hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules with their respective suitably selected concentration ranges, glutathione to co-stabilize the water phase vitamin C, bisabolol to prevent skin irritation from high vitamin C concentration, and a lipid cap that contains several types of vitamin E and squalane (non-oxidizable) to insulate hydrophilic/water phase from air.

    Claims

    1. A composition for a skincare product, comprising: one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules, one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules, one or more hydrophilic antioxidants to co-stabilize the one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules, and a lipid cap comprising one or more hydrophobic antioxidants.

    2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules are selected from the group consisting of: L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid.

    3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules comprise L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid.

    4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight of said composition, and each one of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition.

    5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules and the one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules have a total combined concentration of from 10% to 40% by weight of said composition.

    6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the total combined concentration is 15%.

    7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules are selected from the group consisting of: L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

    8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules comprise L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

    9. The composition of claim 8, wherein each one of L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is present in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition.

    10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules and the one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules have a total combined concentration of from 10% to 40% by weight of said composition.

    11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the total combined concentration is 15%.

    12. The composition of claim 1, wherein glutathione is selected as the one or more hydrophilic antioxidants and the one or more lipid phase antioxidants is selected from the group consisting of squalane, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate.

    13. The composition of claim 1, wherein glutathione is selected as the one or more hydrophilic antioxidants and the one or more lipid phase antioxidants comprises squalane, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate.

    14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the glutathione is present in an amount from 1% to 10% by weight of said composition, the squalane is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight of said composition, and the one or more hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules and the one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules have a total combined concentration of from 10% to 40% by weight of said composition.

    15. The composition of claim 14, wherein the total combined concentration is 15% and the composition further comprises a skin soothing agent.

    16. A composition for a skincare product, comprising: hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules comprising L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules comprising L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a hydrophilic antioxidant comprising glutathione, and lipid phase antioxidants comprising squalane, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate.

    17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules and the hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules have a total combined concentration of from 10% to 40% by weight of said composition.

    18. The composition of claim 16, further comprising bisabolol in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition, wherein the L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight of said composition, each one of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition, the glutathione is present in an amount from 1% to 10% by weight of said composition, the squalane is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight of said composition, and each one of the tocopherol, the tocopheryl acetate and the hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules is present in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition.

    19. The composition of claim 18, wherein the hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules and the hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules have a total combined concentration of 15% by weight of said composition.

    20. A skincare product comprising a container and a bi-layer serum formulation stored therein, the bi-layer serum formulation being formed from a composition and having a hydrophilic/water phase and a hydrophobic/lipid phase, the hydrophilic/water phase comprising a hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture of hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules selected from the group consisting of: L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, the hydrophobic/lipid phase comprising a hydrophobic lipid mixture of hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules selected from the group consisting of: L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, the formulation further comprising one or more antioxidant small molecules selected from the group consisting of: squalane, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate,wherein the one or more selected antioxidant small molecules forms a lipid cap to seal the hydrophilic/water phase from air.

    21. The skincare product of claim 20, wherein the hydrophilic/water phase comprises L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, the hydrophobic/lipid phase comprises L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, the one or more antioxidant small molecules comprise glutathione, squalane, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate, and the formulation further comprises biasbolol,wherein the L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight of said composition, each one of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition, the glutathione is present in an amount from 1% to 10% by weight of said composition, the squalane is present in an amount from 1% to 30% by weight of said composition, and each one of the tocopherol, the tocopheryl acetate, the bisabolol and the hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules is present in an amount from 0.1% to 3% by weight of said composition.

    22. The skincare product of claim 21, wherein the L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount of 9% by weight, the magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is present in an amount of 2% by weight, the sodium ascorbyl phosphate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the sodium L-ascorbate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the ascorbyl glucoside is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the glyceryl ascorbate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the glutathione is present in an amount of 1% by weight, the squalane is present in an amount of 9% by weight, the tocopherol is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the tocopheryl acetate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the L-ascorbyl palmitate is present in an amount of 0.05% by weight, the ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is present in an amount of 0.1% by weight, the bisabolol is present in an amount of 0.5% by weight, andwherein the composition further comprises: tranexamic acid in an amount of 1% by weight, sodium pca in an amount of 0.5% by weight, sodium polyglutamate in an amount of 0.5% by weight, panthenol in an amount of 0.5% by weight, and ceramide np in an amount of 0.5% by weight.

    Description

    BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

    [0018] For the purposes of description, but not of limitation, the foregoing and other aspects of the invention are explained in greater detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

    [0019] Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a skincare product package described herein.

    DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS

    [0020] The description which follows and the embodiments described therein are provided by way of illustration of an example, or examples, of particular embodiments of the principles of the present invention. These examples are provided for the purposes of explanation, and not limitation, of those principles and of the invention.

    [0021] In general, it is desirable that a stable and effective ascorbic acid (vitamin C) serum formulation should meet the requirements for stability, efficacy and minimum skin irritation. In general, the product should not exhibit any significant color change within a minimum time period, such as within 12 months, a typical period that is the generally required shelf life for most consumer products. The efficacy should meet the requirement that visible skin brightening effect may be achieved after application. There also should not be undesirable side effects such as skin irritation due to high vitamin C concentration or formation of greasy film on the skin of its user.

    [0022] Fig. 1 shows a cosmetic or skincare product 10 packaged in a container 20. A skincare composition, formulated as a stable and effective ascorbic acid (vitamin C) serum formulation, is packaged in the container. The formulation has a bi-layer or heterogeneous liquid phase form. The bi-layer serum formulation has a hydrophilic/water phase and a hydrophobic/lipid phase.

    [0023] The hydrophilic/water phase is located at the bottom and forms a bottom layer 30. The bottom layer is substantially water based. This bottom layer 30 may comprise as much as 99% (or even higher concentration) hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture, though in general, it may be about 90% hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture, or even as low as 80% hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture. The hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture may include one or more of hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules, such as L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid.

    [0024] The hydrophobic/lipid phase is generally located on top of the water phase in normal upright storage conditions and forms a top layer 40. The top layer 40 is substantially oil based. The top layer 40 may comprise as much as 99% (or even higher concentration) hydrophobic lipid mixture, though in general, it may be about 90% hydrophobic lipid mixture, or even as low as 80% hydrophobic lipid mixture. The hydrophobic lipid mixture may include one or more hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules such as L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. The hydrophobic lipid mixture also may include hydrophobic antioxidants. The hydrophobic antioxidants are non-oxidizable which can be used to seal physically the aqueous ascorbyl mixture in the bottom layer. Accordingly, the hydrophobic small molecule moieties form an antioxidation air isolation cap 50 that can prevent air 60 from entering the ascorbyl mixture 30. This lipid cap physically seals the aqueous ascorbyl mixture 30 located at the bottom, thus enhancing its stability and maintaining longer period of efficacy of the skincare product.

    [0025] As will be understood by those skilled in the art, although references are made to hydrophilic/water phase and hydrophobic/lipid phase, these phases tend to form and become separated when the skincare product 10 is positioned in the normal upright storage conditions. The formulation itself may be made simply by directly mixing the selected hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules, the selected hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules, and the antioxidants, the skin soothing agent (such as bisabolol), without having to form first a hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture (or phase) nor a hydrophobic lipid mixture (or phase), though such mixtures may be first formed for convenience.

    [0026] A composition for the skincare product 10 thus may comprise one or more types of hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules, one or more types of hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules, one or more hydrophilic antioxidants such as glutathione to co-stabilize the water phase vitamin C, and a lipid cap that contains one or more hydrophobic antioxidants, such as different types of vitamin E and squalane (non-oxidizable), which helps to insulate hydrophilic/water phase from air. The composition may further include a skin soothing agent such as bisabolol to prevent skin irritation from high vitamin C concentration.

    [0027] Hydrophilic ascorbyl mixture, which forms part of the bottom layer or hydrophilic/water phase, may be selected from different hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules, such as L-ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbate dihydrate, sodium L-ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, glyceryl ascorbate, 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, among others, with suitable selected concentrations. In general, L-ascorbic acid may have a concentration in the range of 1% to 30% by weight, while other hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules may each have a concentration in the range of 0.1% to 3% by weight.

    [0028] Hydrophobic lipid mixture, which forms part of the top layer or hydrophobic/lipid phase, may be selected from different hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules, such as L-ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. Additionally, lipid phase antioxidants, such as squalane, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, among others, may be selected, which form a lipid cap. Squalane may have a concentration in the range of 1% to 30% by weight, while other hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules and lipid phase antioxidants may each have a concentration in the range of 0.1% to 3% by weight.

    [0029] In this formulation, as described above, the L-ascorbic acid is the main contributor in the formulation as it is believed to have high efficacy and bio availability. In one embodiment, the hydrophilic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules and the hydrophobic ascorbyl (vitamin C) molecules have a total combined concentration of 15% by weight, i.e., a 15% overall vitamin C concentration in the formulation, though the total combined vitamin C concentration may be in the range of 10% to 20%, or 10% to 40%, or even 5% to 40%, too, as suitable.

    [0030] Antioxidants help to achieve synergistic co-stabilization. Added to the formulation are preferably antioxidant small molecules. These antioxidant small molecules are mixed or blended into the formulation to stabilize and enhance the efficacy of ascorbyl species at the same time. In general, a small molecule is a low molecular weight (< 1000 daltons) organic compound that may regulate a biological process, with a size on the order of 1 nm. Suitable antioxidant small molecules may include glutathione, which is a water phase antioxidant, and squalane, vitamin E, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, among others, which are lipid phase antioxidants. Glutathione may have a concentration in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, squalane may have a concentration in the range of 1% to 30% by weight, and each of the other lipid phase antioxidants may have a concentration in the range of 0.1% to 3% by weight.

    [0031] In one embodiment, both water phase antioxidants and lipid phase antioxidants are included in the selected antioxidant small molecules. However, it is also acceptable to select antioxidant small molecules without including water phase antioxidants, such as without including glutathione.

    [0032] To reduce skin irritation, generally due to high vitamin C concentration, skin soothing agents, such as bisabolol, may be added. Skin soothing agents may be a hydrophobic type and form part of the hydrophobic/lipid phase. The addition of bisabolol in the formulation can soothe irritation that may be caused by acidity due to high vitamin C concentration. The bisabolol may have a concentration in the range of 0.1% to 3% by weight.

    [0033] Table 1 below illustrates as an example a list of ingredients and their respective concentration ranges in a composition which can be formulated for the skincare product 10:

    TABLE-US-00001 INGREDIENTS HYDROPHILIC/WATER PHASE L-ASCORBIC ACID 1-30% ASCORBYL MOLECULES MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 0.1-3% SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 0.1-3% CALCIUM L-ASCORBATE DIHYDRATE 0.1-3% SODIUM L-ASCORBATE 0.1-3% ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE 0.1-3% GLYCERYL ASCORBATE 0.1-3% 3-O-ETHYL-L-ASCORBIC ACID 0.1-3% GLUTATHIONE 1-10% ANTIOXIDANT HYDROPHOBIC/LIPID PHASE SQUALANE 1-30% ANTIOXIDANT TOCOPHEROL 0.1-3% TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.1-3% L-ASCORBYL PALMITATE 0.1-3% ASCORBYL MOLECULES ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE 0.1-3% TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE 0.1-3% BISABOLOL 0.1-3% REDUCE IRRITATION

    [0034] Table 1 lists some examples of hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules and hydrophobic ascorbyl molecules. Of course, it will be understood that other ascorbyl molecules or ascorbyl analogs also may be selected for the formulation. Further, although the table listed eleven (11) different types of ascorbyl molecules, it will be understood that not all eleven of them must be selected for the formulation. For example, in one embodiment, a formulation is formed from six (6) different types of ascorbyl analogs in combination with a conventional vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). Also included in this embodiment are four different antioxidants, of which squalane, tocopherol, and tocopheryl acetate together form a lipid cap. Table 2 below shows the ingredients and their respective concentrations in such a formulation:

    TABLE-US-00002 INGREDIENTS Concentration L-ASCORBIC ACID 9 MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 2 SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 0.1 CALCIUM L-ASCORBATE DIHYDRATE 0.1 SODIUM L-ASCORBATE 0.1 ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE 0.1 GLYCERYL ASCORBATE 0.1 3-O-ETHYL-L-ASCORBIC ACID 0.1 GLUTATHIONE 1 SQUALANE 9 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.1

    [0035] When a conventional ascorbic acid is combined with multiple types of ascorbyl analogs, presence of these different types of ascorbyl analogs helps to stabilize the ascorbic acid. It is considered possible that the addition of ascorbyl analogs can replenish the ascorbic acid by converting ascorbyl analogs into the ascorbic acid when the latter is depleted from oxidation. Thus, various ascorbyl analogs tend to stabilize the ascorbic acid to maintain the formulation’s efficacy. Similarly, multiple types of vitamin C, when mixed together in a combination, also tend to co-stabilize each other. In general, it is preferred that at least two hydrophilic ascorbyl molecules are selected.

    [0036] Table 3 shows the ingredients and their corresponding concentrations of a formulation according to another embodiment.

    TABLE-US-00003 INGREDIENTS CONCENTRATION HYDROPHILIC PHASE AQUA 72.95 L-ASCORBIC ACID 9 MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 2 SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 0.1 CALCIUM L-ASCORBATE DIHYDRATE 0.1 SODIUM L-ASCORBATE 0.1 ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE 0.1 GLYCERYL ASCORBATE 0.1 3-O-ETHYL-L-ASCORBIC ACID 0.1 TRANEXAMIC ACID 1 SODIUM PCA 0.5 SODIUM POLYGLUTAMATE 0.5 PANTHENOL 0.5 CERAMIDE NP 0.5 GLUTATHIONE 1 PHENOXYETHANOL SA 1.5 HYDROPHOBIC PHASE SQUALANE 9 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.1 L-ASCORBYL PALMITATE 0.05 ASCORBYL TETRAISOPALMITATE 0.1 TETRAHEXYLDECYL ASCORBATE 0.1 BISABOLOL 0.5 100

    [0037] Again, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the listing of ingredients in Table 3, their inclusion in the listing, and their respective concentrations, are merely used to illustrate the invention and that the invention is not to be limited by this or any of the other examples.

    [0038] Various embodiments of the invention have now been described in detail. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that numerous modifications, adaptations and variations may be made to the embodiments without departing from the scope of the invention, which is defined by the appended claims. The scope of the claims should be given the broadest interpretation consistent with the description as a whole and not to be limited to these embodiments set forth in the examples or detailed description thereof.