LONG-WEARING COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING EXPANDED PERLITE
20230046620 · 2023-02-16
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/895
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/898
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/412
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/891
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to anhydrous compositions including at least one silicone film former; from about 10% by weight to about 20% by weight of expanded perlite having an average particle size of less than about 50 microns; at least one silicone elastomer; and at least one volatile solvent.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition comprising: at least one silicone film former; from about 10% by weight to about 20% by weight of expanded perlite having an average particle size of less than about 50 microns; at least one silicone elastomer; and at least one volatile solvent, wherein the composition is anhydrous.
2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the expanded perlite, the at least one silicone film-former are each present in a concentration by weight such that a ratio of the concentration by weight of the expanded perlite to a total concentration by weight of the at least one silicone film-former is from about 0.5:1 to about 1.5:1.
3. The cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one silicone film-former includes at least one silicone resin and at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer.
4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 further comprising at least one colorant.
5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4 wherein the expanded perlite and the at least one colorant are both present in a concentration by weight such that a ratio of the concentration by weight of the expanded perlite to the concentration by weight of the at least one colorant is from about 1:1 to about 4:1.
6. The cosmetic composition of claim 5 wherein the at least one silicone film-former includes at least one silicone resin and at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer and the at least one silicone resin and the at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer are each present in a concentration by weight such that a ratio of the concentration by weight of the expanded perlite to a total concentration by weight of the at least one silicone resin and the at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer is from about 0.5:1 to about 1.1:1.
7. The cosmetic composition of claim 3 wherein the at least one silicone resin is present in a concentration by weight from about 4% to about 25%.
8. The cosmetic composition of claim 3 wherein the at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer is present in a concentration by weight from about 1% to about 25%.
9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one silicone elastomer is present in a concentration by weight from about 1% to about 20%.
10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one volatile solvent is present in a concentration by weight from about 5% or about 50%.
11. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.
12. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one silicone elastomer is a dimethicone crosspolymer and is present in the cosmetic composition in a concentration by weight from about 1% to about 10%.
13. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the volatile solvent is selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
14. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one non-volatile oil, wherein the non-volatile oil is dimethicone fluid having a viscosity greater than about 300 cSt and lower than about 1200 cSt at 25° C.
15. The cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the at least one dimethicone fluid is present in concentration by weight from about 6% to about 20% by weight being relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein the at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer is Nylon-611/Dimethicone copolymer, and is present in concentration by weight from about 7% to about 20% by weight being relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The composition of claim 1, wherein the expanded perlite has an oil absorption value of at least about 100 grams of oil per 100 grams of expanded perlite.
18. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is substantially free of hydrophobic silicas.
19. An anhydrous lipstick liquid composition comprising: from about 4% to about 25% by weight of at least one silicone resin; from about 1% to about 25% by weight of at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer; from about 10% by weight to about 20% by weight of expanded perlite having an average particle size of less than about 50 microns; from about 1% to about 25% by weight of least one silicone elastomer; from about 0.5% to about 5% of swellable clay; from about 5% to about 50% by weight from at least one volatile solvent; and from about 6% to about 20% by weight of a dimethicone fluid having a viscosity greater than about 300 cSt and lower than about 1200 cSt at 25° C.
20. A method of making up lips comprising applying to the lips a lipstick composition comprising: at least one silicone film former; from about 10% by weight to about 20% by weight of expanded perlite having an average particle size of less than about 50 microns; at least one silicone elastomer; and at least one volatile solvent, wherein the composition is anhydrous.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0121] The present invention will be better understood from the examples which follow. The examples are intended to be nonrestrictive and explanatory only, with the scope of the invention defined by the claims.
[0122] Method of Preparation of Inventive Composition(s)
[0123] The mixture of pigment, isododecane and MQ resin was ground to create a pigment paste. The blend was processed using Disconti Mill until the paste passed the Hegman Gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). Then, the paste grind was added to the remaining ingredients. The mixture was heated to 80° C. and stirred, until a homogeneous liquid composition was obtained. After that, the inventive composition was cooled down to the room temperature and transferred to desired containers and/or applicators.
[0124] Evaluation of Inventive Compositions: Methods and Test Results
[0125] Compositions were tested for tackiness and gloss and wear. Each of the tested products was tested two times.
[0126] Initially a composition (Comparative Example 0) was prepared with 10% by weight of a perlite having a large average particle size of at least 200 um with no substantial oil absorption. The sample film was evaluated by drawdown (1 mil thickness) on a stainless steel plate and allow to dry for at least 1 hr. The resulting film had a rough and extremely gritty surface and was not further evaluated for gloss and wear.
[0127] Compositions (Comparative Example 1, Inventive Examples 1-3) were also prepared with 5%, 10%, 15% or 20% by weight of expanded perlite having a D50 (median) particle size of about 25 microns and an oil absorption of about 200 g oil/100 material to about 225 g oil/100 g material. The remainder of each composition included lake pigment, volatile solvent, silicone resin, polyorganosiloxane, copolymer, silicone elastomer, swellable clay and non volatile silicone oil. In order to compensate for lower levels of expanded perlite, the formulas were compensated with extra (q.$) isododecane. The sample with 20% expanded perlite had a reduced amount of swellable clay to mitigate the large increase in viscosity that otherwise would have been present.
[0128] Similarly, formulas were prepared in which the expanded perlite was replaced with Oryza Sativa rice starch having a particle size of about 2 to 8 microns—at concentrations by weight of 1%, 2% and 5% (Comparative Examples 2-4). Also replaced formulas were prepared in which the expanded perlite was replaced with silica (SUNSPHERES H51 from Asahi Glass) having a particle size of about 5 microns—at concentrations by weight of 2%, 5% and 10% (Comparative Examples 5-7). Each of these particulate materials had an oil absorption less than that of the expanded perlite having a D50 (median) particle size of about 25 microns. The remainder of each composition included pigment, volatile solvent, silicone resin, organopolyorganosiloxane copolymer, silicone elastomer, and non-volatile silicone oil. In order to compensate for lower levels of expanded perlite, the formulas were compensated with extra (q.$) isododecane.
[0129] Testing methods are described below.
[0130] Tack Testing
[0131] The films of each formula were deposited onto contrast cards using a 1 MIL drawdown bar and an Automatic Drawdown Machine. The films immediately analyzed using a Texture Analyzer equipped with a 2 inch stainless steel cylinder (TA-93). Tack force was measured after repeatedly applying 1500 g-force every 2 seconds. Then, the values of the tackiness were correlated to the comfort of wear of the tested products. Comparative Examples 2-7 were not measured but were qualitatively observed to be considerably higher than the inventive Examples. For those samples in which measurements were taken, the samples having tackiness having values higher than 250 grams force, were considered to be very uncomfortable to wear. The tack values between 50-249 gr/force, indicated medium comfort, and those with values of less than 50 gr/force were considered to be comfortable.
[0132] The results for Tack testing are shown below in Table 1.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 1 EXPANDED PERLITE TACK EXAMPLE (WT. %) (g) Comp 1 5% expanded perlite 314 Example 1 10% expanded perlite 238 Example 2 15% expanded perlite 201 Example 3 20% expanded perlite 78.8 Comp 2 1% Rice starch * Comp 3 2% Rice starch * Comp 4 5% Rice starch * Comp 5 2% Silica * Comp 6 5% Silica * Comp 7 10% Silica * * Not measured but observed to be “high”
[0133] The results indicate that the various concentrations of rice starch and silica as well as the 5% expanded perlite having an average particle size of less than about 50 microns exhibited unacceptably high tack, whereas the samples prepared with 10% 15% or 20% expanded perlite having an average particle size of less than about 50 microns had dramatically lower tack.
[0134] Wear Testing
[0135] The formula films were prepared by using a BYK 1 mil Birdbar to draw down on a stainless steel plate and let dry for 24 hr. After dried, the film was rubbed 15 times with a kim-wipe paper towel to assess the amount of product remaining on the stainless steel plate. If the film did not come off, the result was recorded as “Good,” otherwise the result was recorded as “Poor.”
[0136] The results for Wear testing are shown below in Table 2.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 2 EXPANDED PERLITE EXAMPLE (WT. %) WEAR Comp 1 5% expanded perlite Good Example 1 10% expanded perlite Good Example 2 15% expanded perlite Good Example 3 20% expanded perlite Poor Comp 2 1% Rice starch Good Comp 3 2% Rice starch Good Comp 4 5% Rice starch Good Comp 5 2% Silica Good Comp 6 5% Silica Good Comp 7 10% Silica Poor
[0137] The results indicate that surprisingly high weight percentages of the particular expanded perlite below 20% by weight do not adversely affect wear.
[0138] Gloss Testing
[0139] The formula film were prepared by using a BYK 1 mil Birdbar to draw down on a stainless steel plate and let dry for 24 hr. After dried, the film gloss was analyzed by using BYK micro-TRI-gloss equipment to assess the gloss level among the formulas. The lower the gloss reading, the more matte the film is. Gloss readings below four indicate strong mattifying performance.
[0140] The results for Tack testing are shown below in Table 3.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 3 EXPANDED PERLITE EXAMPLE (WT. %) Gloss Comp 1 5% expanded perlite 2.7 Example 1 10% expanded perlite 2.1 Example 2 15% expanded perlite 1.3 Example 3 20% expanded perlite 1.8 Comp 2 1% Rice starch 7.1 Comp 3 2% Rice starch 6.6 Comp 4 5% Rice starch 4.2 Comp 5 2% Silica 15.9 Comp 6 5% Silica 11.7 Comp 7 10% Silica 5
[0141] The results indicate that expanded perlite reduces gloss in these compositions to provide strong mattifying performance and generally increasing the level of expanded perlite reduces gloss. This can be highly desirable for matte-finish lip products.