ALKALINE COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST THREE DIFFERENT ALKALINE AGENTS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBRES, METHODS AND USES

20230037803 · 2023-02-09

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Inventors

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising arginine, at least one silicate, at least one alkanolamine, and optionally aqueous ammonia and/or at least one compound which generates aqueous ammonia. The composition further comprises at least one thickening agent chosen from non-associative cellulose polymers, anionic associative polymers, non-ionic associative polymers, and their mixtures. The invention also relates to a method for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising the application of at least one composition according to the invention; and also to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of said keratin fibres, and in particular for the oxidation dyeing and/or the bleaching of the latter.

Claims

1. Composition comprising: a) arginine, in a content of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one alkaline agent chosen from silicates; c) at least one alkanolamine; and e) at least one thickening agent chosen from non-associative cellulose polymers, anionic associative polymers, non-ionic associative polymers, and their mixtures.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the arginine content is between 0.5% and 25% by weight, more preferentially between 0.5% and 15% by weight, more preferentially still between 0.6% and 10% by weight, better still between 0.8% and 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicate(s) are chosen from silicates of alkali metals and/or of alkaline earth metals, preferably from metasilicates of alkali metals and/or of alkaline earth metals, more preferentially from sodium metasilicate, lithium metasilicate, magnesium metasilicate, calcium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate, and their mixtures.

4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of alkaline agent(s) b) is between 0.01% and 15% by weight, more preferentially between 0.05% and 10% by weight, more preferentially still between 0.1% and 8% by weight, indeed even between 0.5% and 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the alkanolamine(s) c) are chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and their mixtures; preferentially monoethanolamine.

6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of alkanolamine(s) c) is between 0.01% and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, more preferentially between 0.5% and 15% by weight, more preferentially still between 1% and 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one alkaline agent d) chosen from aqueous ammonia (ammonium hydroxide), the compounds which generate aqueous ammonia, their mixtures.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the compounds which generate aqueous ammonia are chosen from ammonium salts, preferably from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide, ammonium sulfate, ammonium carbonate, and their mixtures; more preferentially from ammonium chloride.

9. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of alkaline agents a), b), c) and optionally d) is between 0.5% and 30% by weight, more preferentially between 1% and 25% by weight and more preferentially still between 3% and 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant; preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, polyoxyethylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty acid esters, and their mixtures.

11. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one fatty substance; preferably chosen from liquid C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, solid C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the thickening agent(s) are chosen from (i) non-ionic cellulose ethers, (ii) copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, (iii) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or their mixtures, where the alkyl groups are C.sub.8-C.sub.30 alkyl groups, and in particular non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and (iv) their mixtures; more preferentially from hydroxypropylcelluloses, hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and their mixtures.

13. Method for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, such as the hair, comprising the application, to said keratin fibres, of at least one composition according to claim 1.

14. Method according to claim 13 for the oxidation dyeing and/or the bleaching of said keratin fibres, characterized in that it comprises the application, to said keratin fibres, of a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of at least one composition with at least one dyeing composition containing one or more oxidation dyes, and/or with at least one oxidizing composition containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

15. Use of the composition as defined in claim 1 for the treatment of keratin fibres; and preferably for the dyeing and/or bleaching of keratin fibres.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0206] The compositions below according to the present invention were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which, as percentages by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition, are shown in the tables below.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredients A1 A2 Arginine 3 3 Monoethanolamine 5.8 5.8 Sodium metasilicate 2 2 Ammonium hydroxide 2.06 — Polyquaternium-6 2 2 Hexadimethrine chloride 1.2 1.2 2-Oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol 0.01 0.01 EDTA 0.20 0.20 Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose (HPMC) 0.20 0.20 Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.45 0.45 PEG-40 stearate 1.80 1.80 Oleth-30 1.50 1.50 Oleic acid 3 3 Stearic acid 0.1 0.1 C.sub.20-C.sub.22 fatty alcohols 3 3 Stearamide MEA 4.8 4.8 Steareth-2 5.50 5.50 Water q.s. 100 q.s. 100

[0207] At the moment of use, the compositions A1 and A2 are mixed with 1.5 times their weight of 20 volume oxidizing composition (6 g % am of H202) and ⅓ times their weight of solid particles comprising oxidation dyes.

[0208] The compositions below were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which, as percentages by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition, are shown in the tables below.

[0209] Alkaline Composition 1 According to the Invention

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Ingredients Amount Arginine 3 Ammonium hydroxide 2 Monoethanolamine 5.8 Sodium metasilicate 2 Polyquaternium-6 2 Hexadimethrine chloride 1.2 EDTA 0.2 Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose (HPMC) 0.2 Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.45 PEG-40 stearate 1.8 Oleth-30 1.5 Oleic acid 3 C.sub.20-C.sub.22 fatty alcohols 3 Stearamide MEA 4.8 Steareth-2 5.5 Water q.s. 100

[0210] Alkaline Composition 2 According to the Invention

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Ingredients Amount Arginine 3 Monoethanolamine 5.8 Sodium metasilicate 2 Polyquaternium-6 2 Hexadimethrine chloride 1.2 EDTA 0.2 Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose (HPMC) 1.2 Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.45 PEG-40 stearate 1.8 Oleth-30 1.5 Oleic acid 3 C.sub.20-C.sub.22 fatty alcohols 3 Stearamide MEA 4.8 Steareth-2 5.5 Water q.s. 100

[0211] Oxidizing Composition

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Ingredients Amount (g) Hydrogen peroxide 12 Stabilizer, sequestrant q.s. Phosphoric acid q.s. pH = 2.2 ± 0.2 Water q.s. 100

[0212] Thickening Composition

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Ingredients Amount Hydrogen peroxide 12 Cetearyl alcohol 8 Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer, 0.4 under the reference Aculyn 28 from Rohm and Haas Ceteareth-33 2 Sequestrants, stabilizers q.s. Phosphoric acid q.s. pH = 2.2 ± 0.2 Water q.s. 100

[0213] Examples of Dying 2 Compositions

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Ingredients Amount Microcrystalline cellulose 54.4 Lactose 14.6 PVP 4.6 Magnesium stearate 1.94 Silica 1.0 Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate 19.4 Sodium sulfite 1.0 Water 0.2 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 1.46 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.29 Talc 0.44 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.15 Pigments 0.51 Alumina 0.01

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Ingredients Amount Microcrystalline cellulose 77.2 Lactose 14.6 PVP 0.1 Magnesium stearate 1 Silica 0.54 Resorcinol 0.85 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 1.45 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.30 Talc 0.4 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.15 Pigments 0.5 Alumina 0.01 VP/VA copolymer 2.9

TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 8 Ingredients Amount Microcrystalline cellulose 63.5 Lactose 9.7 PVP 0.1 Magnesium stearate 1 Silica 0.5 Resorcinol 16.5 Ascorbic acid 2.9 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 1.5 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.3 Talc 0.44 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.15 Pigments 0.5 Alumina 0.01 VP/VA copolymer 2.9

TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 9 Ingredients Amount Microcrystalline cellulose 76.2 Lactose 15.5 PVP 0.5 Magnesium stearate 1.0 Silica 1.0 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol hydrochloride 1.0 Sodium metabisulfite 1.94 Water 0.02 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 1.45 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.29 Talc 0.44 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.15 Pigments 0.5 Alumina 0.01

TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 10 Ingredients Amount Microcrystalline cellulose 69.4 Lactose 11.6 PVP 2.8 Magnesium stearate 1.0 Silica 0.5 m-Aminophenol 7.8 Sodium metabisulfite 3.9 Water 0.15 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 1.46 Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.29 Talc 0.44 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 0.15 Pigments 0.5 Alumina 0.01

[0214] Method for Dyeing Keratin Fibres

[0215] A composition (M) for the dyeing of keratin fibres is prepared in a bowl according to the following stages:

[0216] (1) 6 g of dyeing composition according to Table 6 above, 3.48 g of dyeing composition according Table 8 above, 1.32 g of dyeing composition according to Table 7 above, 1.26 g of dyeing composition according to Table 9 above and 0.84 g of dyeing composition according to Table 10 above are mixed with 12 g of oxidizing composition according to Table 4 above and 36 g of water stabilized and adjusted to pH 2,2; then, after at least 30 seconds,

[0217] (2) the mixture obtained in stage (1) is mixed with 24 g of thickening composition according to Table 5 above, 28.8 g of alkaline composition 1 (invention) according to Table 2 above and 19.2 g of alkaline composition 2 (invention) according to Table 3 above.

[0218] A homogeneous aqueous composition (M), where the dyeing compositions have dispersed in the aqueous composition (M), is thus obtained.

[0219] The composition (M) obtained is subsequently applied to locks of natural Caucasian hair comprising 90% white hairs (locks of NG hair) in a proportion of 10 g of composition (M) per 1 g of hair. After a leave-in time of 30 minutes at 27° C., the locks are rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.

[0220] Results for the Dyeing:

[0221] The colorimetric data for each of the locks are subsequently measured in the CIELab system with a Data Color SF600X spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10° and specular component included). In this L* a* b* system, L* represents the lightness, a* indicates the green/red colour axis and b* indicates the blue/yellow colour axis. The higher the value of L, the lighter or less intense the colour. Conversely, the lower the value of L*, the darker or more intense the colour. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade.

[0222] The colour build-up on hair thus corresponds to the variation in colouring between the locks of dyed NG hair and the locks of non-dyed (i.e. untreated) NG hair, which is measured by AE according to the following equation:


ΔE=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.0*)+(a*−a.sub.0*)+(b*−b.sub.0*))}

[0223] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after dyeing of the locks of NG hair, and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured for the locks of untreated NG hair. The higher the ΔE value, the better the build-up of the colouring.

[0224] The results are collated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 11 L* a* b* ΔE Lock of untreated NG hair 57.78 1.40 13.97 — Lock of treated NG hair 23.57 2.39  5.25 35.32

[0225] It is apparent from the results of the table that the keratin fibres treated with the composition (M) prepared by means of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are dyed intensely and with a good colour build-up.

[0226] It has also been found that the composition (M) is easy to apply and to spread over the locks of hair, in particular without running.

[0227] Method for Bleaching Keratin Fibres

[0228] A composition (N) for the bleaching of keratin fibres is prepared in a bowl by mixing 12 g of oxidizing composition according to Table 4 above with 36 g of water stabilized and adjusted to pH 2.2, then with 24 g of thickening composition according to Table 5 above and 48 g of alkaline composition 1 (invention) according to Table 2 above.

[0229] A homogeneous aqueous composition (N) is thus obtained.

[0230] The composition (N) obtained is subsequently applied to locks of natural Caucasian hair with a height of tone 4 (HT4) in a proportion of 10 g of composition (N) per 1 g of hair. After a leave-in time of 30 minutes at 27° C., the locks are rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed again and then dried.

[0231] Results for the bleaching: [0232] The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system by means of a Data Color SF600X spectrophotometer (illuminant D65, angle 10° and specular component included). In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters respectively denote the intensity of the colour (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*) and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*). [0233] The higher the value of L*, the more the locks are bleached. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade. The effectiveness of the bleaching is evaluated by the variation in the colour of the locks before and after treatment with the composition (N), and measured by (AE*) according to the following equation:


ΔE=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.0*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.0*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.0*).sup.2)}

In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on the locks of HT4 hair treated with the composition (N), and Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on the locks of untreated HT4 hair. [0234] The greater the value of ΔE*, the greater the difference in colour of the lock before and after treatment, which shows a more intensive bleaching.

[0235] The results are collated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 12 L* a* b* ΔE Lock of untreated HT4 hair 21.33 2.84 3.24 — Lock of treated HT4 hair 26.22 6.91 9.43 8.88

[0236] It is apparent from the results of the table above that the keratin fibres treated with the composition (N) prepared by means of the cosmetic composition according to the invention are significantly bleached (L*>L.sub.0 and high ΔE).

[0237] It has also been found that the composition (N) is easy to apply and to spread over the locks of hair, in particular without running.