Makeup composition comprising a blue pigment

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a blue dye powder containing an anthocyan, a metal ion and tannic acid and a cosmetic additive. The invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials by applying the cosmetic composition to the keratin materials.

Claims

1. Process for making up keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a dye powder having a blue colour comprising at least one anthocyan, metal ion chosen from the group of ions derived from Al(III), Ca(II), Cu(II), Fe(II), Fe(III), Mg(II), Mn(II) and Zn(II) and mixtures thereof, tannic acid or a gallotannin derivative thereof, or mixtures thereof, wherein the metal ion is present in the dye powder in a metal ion/anthocyan ratio ranging from 3/1 to 10/1.

2. Process according to the claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is a compound of formula (I): ##STR00004## in which R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.4 independently denote H, OH, OMe, a sugar unit or an acylated sugar unit (acyl group derived from malonic acid, p-coumaric acid, ferulic acid or caffeic acid) and R.sub.3, R.sub.5, R.sub.6 and R.sub.7 independently denote H, OH or OMe.

3. Process according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is derived from plant matter chosen from red cabbage, red onion, purple potato, grape, cranberry, strawberry, raspberry, aronia, black soybean, blackcurrant, elderberry, hibiscus, radish, gooseberry, bilberry, cherry, aubergine, black carrot and black rice.

4. Process according to claim 1, wherein the metal ions are chosen from ions derived from Fe(II), Fe(III) and Mg(II), and mixtures thereof.

5. Process according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is present in the dye powder in a content ranging from 0.05% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of solids of the dye powder.

6. Process according to claim 1, wherein the tannic acid or a gallotannin derivative thereof, or mixtures thereof, is present in the dye powder in a tannic acid or gallotannin derivative/anthocyan weight ratio ranging from 0.05/1 to 20/1.

7. Process according to claim 1, wherein the dye powder comprises an additional ingredient chosen from: an amino acid chosen from taurine, proline and arginine; a phospholipid; a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

8. Process according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is present in the dye powder in a content ranging from 0.3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of solids of the dye powder.

9. Process according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is present in the dye powder in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of solids of the dye powder.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the tannic acid or a gallotannin derivative thereof, or mixtures thereof, is present in the dye powder in a tannic acid or gallotannin derivative/anthocyan weight ratio ranging from 0.1/1 to 10/1.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is present in the dye powder in a content ranging from 0.05% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of solids of the dye powder and the tannic acid or a gallotannin derivative thereof, or mixtures thereof, is present in the dye powder in a tannic acid or gallotannin derivative/anthocyan weight ratio ranging from 0.05/1 to 20/1.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the anthocyan is present in the dye powder in a content ranging from 0.3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of solids of the dye powder and the tannic acid or a gallotannin derivative thereof, or mixtures thereof, is present in the dye powder in a tannic acid or gallotannin derivative/anthocyan weight ratio ranging from 0.1/1 to 10/1.

13. The process according to claim 12, wherein the anthocyan is present in the dye powder in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of solids of the dye powder.

Description

EXAMPLES 1 TO 9

(1) Blue pigments were prepared from the following compositions:

(2) TABLE-US-00003 Anthocyan Acetate Malic Tannic Phosphati- (g/l) (extract buffer acid FeSO4 MgSO4 acid dylcholine Proline of bilberry) (0.01M) (g/l) (g/l) (g/l) (g/l) (g/l) (g/l) Pigment 1 3 1 9 3 3.4 Pigment 2 3 1 18 3 3.4 Pigment 3 3 1 9 3 Pigment 4 3 1 9 9 3 3.4 3 Pigment 5 3 1 3 18 3 3 Pigment 6 3 1 3 18 12 Pigment 7 3 1 3 18 24 Pigment 8 3 1 18 3 Pigment 9 3 1 18 6

(3) The following solutions were first prepared in 0.1 M pH 5 sodium acetate buffer in deionized water.

(4) Bilberry extract: mixture of aqueous-alcoholic extract of bilberry fruit and of maltodextrin (bilberry fruit PE 25% anthocyanosides from Naturex): 0.2 g of anthocyan active material in 50 ml of buffer

(5) Malic acid: 0.24 g in 20 ml of buffer

(6) Tannic acid: 0.39 g in 20 ml of buffer

(7) Iron sulfate: 0.14 g in 20 ml of buffer

(8) Magnesium sulfate: 0.18 g in 20 ml of buffer

(9) Phosphatidylcholine (Ultralec® U from ADM): 2.4 g in 20 ml of buffer

(10) Proline: 0.27 g in 20 ml of buffer

(11) Pigment preparation method:

(12) The bilberry extract placed in the buffer was mixed with iron sulfate or magnesium sulfate and optionally with malic acid; the mixture was stirred for 2 hours in the darkness, at 25° C.; tannic acid was then added, and the mixture was then stirred for a further 2 hours under the same conditions; next, the mixture was heated for 3 hours at 75° C. Phosphatidylcholine and proline were then optionally added, and the mixture was stirred for 72 hours at 25° C.

(13) Next, the mixture was optionally centrifuged to recover the final solid phase. This solid phase was then frozen at -22° C. and then freeze-dried.

(14) Blue pigments were thus recovered.

EXAMPLE 10

(15) A blue pigment was prepared according to the following procedure:

(16) 1.5 kg of red cabbage extract (Red Cabbage Anthocyanins ELCHRO7017 from Diana Naturals) were diluted in 8 litres of water and cooled to 4° C. 270 g of disodium hydrogen phosphate were added slowly and the pH was measured. The pH of the mixture was adjusted to about 5.5 by adding sodium bicarbonate. With stirring, 195 g of iron sulfate heptahydrate were added. The pH was measured and adjusted to be between 5.5 and 6.0 by addition of sodium bicarbonate. The mixture was stirred for 2 hours at a temperature of 4° C. 170 g of tannic acid (Ajinomoto ominichem) were dissolved in water and added slowly to the mixture. After this addition, the pH was checked and adjusted to between 5.5 and 6.0. The total of the sodium bicarbonate additions was 100 g. The total volume of the mixture was adjusted to 10 litres and stirred for 16 hours at 4° C. 1 kg of maltodextrin 20 DE was dissolved in the mixture and then pasteurized at 75° C. for 1 hour. The mixture was cooled and stirred for 48 hours at 4° C. and was then atomized to obtain a powder. A blue pigment was thus obtained.

EXAMPLE 11

Study of the Photostability of the Blue Pigments

(17) The photostability of the pigments prepared in Examples 1 to 10 was measured according to the following protocol:

(18) The water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition was prepared:

(19) 5% of pigment to be tested

(20) 6.55% of mixture of oxyethylenated polymethylcetyl dimethyl methylsiloxane, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol OE) and hexyl laurate (Abil WE 09 from Evonik-Goldschmidt)

(21) 0.51% of ethylene glycol acetyl stearate

(22) 0.03% of 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol

(23) 5.82% of smectite in cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and ethanol (18/77/5) (Bentone Gel VS 5 V from Elementis)

(24) 10.35% of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane

(25) 2.91% of dimethicone 10 cSt

(26) 1.89% of isododecane

(27) 0.7% of magnesium sulfate

(28) 5% of propylene glycol

(29) qs preserving agents

(30) qs 100% of water

(31) The emulsion prepared was spread onto a contrast card.

(32) The emulsion containing the pigment to be tested was applied to a 50 μm thick Erichsen contrast card ref. Typ 24/5 and was then left to dry at room temperature for 24 hours; the colour (measurement at t0 of L0, a0, b0) of the deposit obtained spread on the white part of the contrast card was measured at three points using a Minolta CM2600d colorimeter.

(33) The deposit obtained was then subjected to irradiation under a Lot Oriel sun simulator for 1 hour (power 1600 W).

(34) After irradiation, the colour of the deposit spread on the white part of the contrast card was measured with the colorimeter, taking care to avoid the zones previously read for the measurement at t0 (measurement at t1 of L1, a1, b1).

(35) The photostability is determined by calculating the difference ΔE between the colour measurements before and after irradiation performed on the white background of the contrast card:
Photostability=ΔE=((L1*−L0*).sup.2+(a1*−a0*).sup.2+(b1*−b0*).sup.2).sup.1/2

(36) The photostability is proportionately better the closer to 0 value of the colour difference ΔE thus determined.

(37) The following results were obtained:

(38) TABLE-US-00004 Pigment tested ΔE photostability Ex. 1 3.91 Ex. 2 3.26 Ex. 3 3.80 Ex. 4 3.43 Ex. 5 1.56 Ex. 6 1.88 Ex. 7 0.55 Ex. 8 2.12 Ex. 9 0.54 Ex. 10 2.02

(39) The results obtained show that the pigments of Examples 1 to 10 have good photostability (ΔE<4).

EXAMPLE 12

Example of Eyeshadow

(40) TABLE-US-00005 Magnesium stearate 4% Talc 30% Glyceryl triisostearate 5% Hydrogenated polydecene 5% Blue pigment qs 100%

(41) The eyeshadow applied to the eyelids has a beautiful blue colour.