WOVEN FURRY FABRIC AND A METHOD OF PRODUCTION THEREOF
20200308731 · 2020-10-01
Inventors
Cpc classification
D02G3/44
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/02
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
D02G3/02
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/44
TEXTILES; PAPER
D03D13/00
TEXTILES; PAPER
Abstract
A furry fabric includes a woven fabric having a plurality of warp and/or weft yarns extending over a number of weft or warp yarns and/or below a number of weft or warp yarns to provide over and/or under-portions having a length comprised between 8 and 3000, preferably between 25-3000. The over and under portions are at least in part cut in a garment including the furry fabric. Alternatively, the warp or weft over portions and/or the warp or weft under portions of said first yarns are not cut or broken.
Claims
1. A woven fabric (10,20) having warp yarns (w1,w2) and weft yarns (w1,w2), said fabric (10,20) having a front side (FS,FS) and a back side (BS,BS), said warp yarns (w1,w2) and weft yarns (w1,w2) being woven together in a weaving pattern, the weaving pattern comprising alternated first (w1) and second (w2) warp yarns and/or alternated first (w1) and second (w2) weft yarns, the weaving pattern of at least said second warp yarns and second weft yarns providing a base structure of the fabric, whereby at least one of said first warp yarns (w1) and/or first weft yarns (w1) extends over a number of weft (w1,w2) or warp yarns (w1,w2) in said front or back side of the fabric to provide warp or weft over portions in said front side (FS,FS) and/or warp or weft under portions in said back side (BS,BS) and wherein at least some of the warp over portions and/or warp under portions extend over a length comprised between 8 and 3000 weft yarns and at least some of the weft over portions and/or weft under portions extend over a length comprised between 25 and 3000 warp yarns.
2. The woven fabric (10) of claim 1, wherein at least part of said over portions and/or under portions of said first warp (w1) or weft (w1) yarns are provided with a discontinuity, said over or under portions being formed of two portions of yarn extending from said fabric.
3. The woven fabric (20) of claim 1, wherein at least part of said first warp yarns (w1) or first weft yarns (w1) extend over a length comprised between 8 and 300 weft yarns and at least some of the weft over portions and/or weft under portions extend over a length comprised between 25 and 300 warp yarns.
4. The woven fabric (10,20) of claim 1, wherein the first warp or first weft over portions and/or the first warp or first weft under portions extend over a length in the range of 30 to 450 weft or warp yarns.
5. The woven fabric (10,20) of claim 1, wherein the warp over portions and/or underportions have a total length in the range from 4 mm to 140 mm, and wherein said weft over or under portions have a length in the range from 8 mm to 110 mm.
6. The woven fabric of claim 1 any, wherein at least said first warp yarns, have overportions on said front side of the fabric, said overportions being provided with a discontinuity to include two parts projecting from the fabric.
7. The woven fabric (10,20) of claim 1, wherein said second warp yarns (w2) or weft yarns (w2) have a count in the range from Ne 5 to Ne 100.
8. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein said first warp yarns (w1) or weft yarns (w1) forming said over portions and/or under portions have a count in the range from Ne 0.5 to Ne 80.
9. A fabric according to claim 1, wherein at least part of said first warp yarns (w1) or first weft yarns (w1) are dyed or ring dyed.
10. A method of preparing a fabric (10,20) according to claim 1, said method comprising weaving warp yarns (w1,w2) or weft yarns (w1,w2) following a pattern providing alternated first (w1) and second (w2) warp yarns and/or alternated first (w1) and second (w2) weft yarns, the weaving pattern of at least said second warp and weft yarns providing said base structure of the fabric (10,20), whereby at least one of said first warp yarns (w1) and/or first weft yarns (w1) extends over a number of weft (w1,w2) or warp yarns (w1,w2) and/or below a number of weft (w1,w2) or warp yarns (w1,w2) to provide warp or weft over portions in said front side (FS,FS) and/or warp or weft under portions in said back side (BS,BS) and wherein at least some of the warp over portions and/or warp under portions extend over a length comprised between 8 and 3000 weft yarns and at least some of the weft over portions and/or weft under portions extend over a length comprised between 25 and 3000 warp yarns.
11. The method of claim 10, wherein the warp or weft over portions and/or the warp or weft under portions of said first yarns extend over a length comprised between 30 to 450.
12. The method of claim 10, further comprising the step of providing at least part of the warp or weft over portions and/or the warp or weft under portions of said first yarns with a discontinuity, by means of a cutting process or by the use of burn-out agents.
13. The method of claim 12, wherein said over and/or under portions are cut by means of a cutting machine including a knife, laser cutting, ultrasonic fabric cutting machines or chemical treatment with burn-out agents.
14. The method of claim 12, wherein said step of providing a discontinuity is carried out on a garment including said fabric.
15. The method of claim 10, wherein the warp or weft over portions and/or the warp or weft under portions of said first yarns are whole.
16. An article or garment comprising a fabric according to claim 1.
17. An article or garment according to claim 16, wherein at least the first warp yarns of said fabric are ring dyed yarns.
18. A garment according to claim 16, wherein said overportions of the first warp yarns or first weft yarns are provided with a discontinuity whereby said discontinuous overportions include two parts projecting from the fabric.
19. A garment according to claim 16, wherein said first warp yarns or weft yarns forming said over portions or under portions have a count in the range from Ne 2 to Ne 15.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0022] Further aspects and advantages of the present invention will be discussed more in detail with reference to the enclosed drawings, given by way of non-limiting example, wherein:
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0039] Exemplary embodiments of the invention will now be described with reference to the enclosed drawings without intent to limit application and uses.
[0040] The invention will now be described with initial reference to
[0041] In
[0042] In many applications of the invention, the length of the over portions can be for the warp direction from 4 mm to 1400 mm, preferably 4-140 mm, most preferably 18 mm to 70 mm; for the weft direction from 8 mm to 1100 mm, preferably 8-110 mm, most preferably 12 mm to 50 mm.
[0043]
[0044] The woven fabric 20 is obtained by crossing weft yarns w1, w2 and warp yarns 2, BS, 2FS, in a weaving pattern whereby the weft yarns w2 are extending over and below a number of warp yarns 2, BS, 2FS, to provide, with respect to the warp yarns 2, BS, 2FS' correspondent over portions and, eventually, under portions. Weft yarns w1 are interlaced with warp yarns 2, BS, 2FS, to provide a structural base portion of the fabric 20.
[0045] In
[0046] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the warp over portions OP or the warp under portions have a length comprised between 8 and 3000 and the weft over portions OP or the weft under portions have a length comprised between 25 and 3000.
[0047] As it is known, weave patterns can be conventionally displayed using weave symbols. In the present description, an integer number expressing a length such as the above mentioned numbers 8, 25 and 3000 indicates the count number of warp (or weft) yarns that are passed over (or under) by an over portion (or an under portion) of a weft (or warp) yarn, respectively.
[0048] In another embodiment, the warp or weft over portions (or under portions) have a length comprised between 30 to 450 yarns, preferably of 40 or 45 to 400 yarns more preferably in the range of 40 and 100 yarns.
[0049] The length in millimeters of the over portions can be for the warp direction from 4 mm to 1400 mm preferably 4 to 140 mm, more preferably, 18 mm to 70 mm; for the weft direction the length may be in the range of from 8 mm to 1100 mm, preferably 8 to 110 mm, more preferably 12 mm to 50 mm.
[0050] In an embodiment of the invention, for example, the fabric may be realized by using one warp yarn w2 for the mentioned over portions and the following warp yarn w1 is used for a regular weave pattern such as 1/1, 2/1 (such as the one depicted in
[0051] Alternatively, for example, two warp yarns w2 can be used for the over portions and a following warp w1 for a regular weave pattern to hold together the whole fabric construction therefore defining a base for the fabric. In general, some warp yarns w2 are used to create the over portions and some warp yarns w1 are used in a regular weave pattern to hold together the fabric. The same is valid for fabric 20 of
[0052] In this types of fabric, such as fabric 20, therefore, some weft yarns w2 are used to create the over portions and some weft yarns w1 are used in a regular weave pattern to hold together the fabric forming a base for the fabric.
[0053] The fabric disclosed may be a standard rigid (non stretch) fabric or, in a variant embodiment, it may be a stretch fabric or a bi-stretch fabric whereby at least some of the warp and/or weft or both warp and weft yarns are elastic.
[0054] Apart from indigo yarn dye or overdye, the fabric disclosed may be black or white (ready for dyeing), ecru, or of other colors, or of any overdyed color with different dyestuffs such as sulphur dyes, reactive dyes, pigment, direct dyestuff. Also for the weft direction yarns may be black, overdye or weft yarn dyed indigo.
[0055] Yarns of any fiber, natural or man-made can be used for the present invention. In particular, considering warp/weft yarns that are used for the base of the fabric, they may be from Ne 0.5 to Ne 400, most preferably Ne 7 to Ne 50. The warp or weft yarns used for the over portions may be from Ne 0.5 to Ne 400, preferably 0.5 to 40, more preferably Ne 2 to Ne 15 or Ne 4 to Ne 15. Warp numbers may be different than each other or can be equal. Yarns may be one ply or multiply. Yarns can be any natural or man made fibres. Splittable yarns are not used in the present invention for the first warp or weft yarns, i.e. for the yarns provided with the long over or under portions; preferably splittable yarns are not used at all. Suitable yarns, particularly for the first yarns, that provide the free-hanging portions of yarns and contribute to the visual effect, are metallized yarns. A yarn for the present invention may also be obtained by cutting a plurality of stripes from a film, e.g. glittered stripes obtained from a glittered film. One yarn of this kind is e.g. known in the art and is commercially available from Lurex.
[0056] Some other examples of constructions may provide for warp direction over portions of length from 4 mm to 1400 mm, preferably 4 to 140 mm, most preferably from 18 mm to 70 mm. For the weft direction the over portions may be long from 8 mm to 1100 mm, preferably 8-110 mm, most preferably from 12 mm to 50 mm.
[0057]
[0058] In the scheme of
[0059] Also for picks 12, 26, 40, 54, 68 and 82, the weft has one under portion of length 5, one under portion of length 4, one over portion of length 2 and one over portion of length 1, the scheme being 4/2/5/1 and for picks 14, 28, 42, 56, 70 and 84, the weft has one under portion of length 5, one under portion of length 4 one over portion of length 2 and one over portion of length 1 with a scheme of 5/2/4/1. For the construction of
Warp 1: 15/1 Ne (for the base).
Warp 2: 4/1 Ne (for the over portions).
Weft: 15/1 Ne.
[0060] Warp density on the loom: 33.
Weft density on the loom: 22.
Reed number: 70/4/182 (5096 warp ends, reed length 1820 mm).
Fur length, i.e. the length of the warp long overportion (length 79 yarns), of this example is 36 mm with weaving report of
[0061]
[0062] In the scheme of
[0063]
[0064] The construction of
[0065]
[0066] For even-numbered picks 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12, the construction of
[0067] As exceptions, warps 3, 17, 31, 45, 59 and 73 show warps provided with two long over portions (respectively of length 4 and 5) and two short under portions (respectively of length 2 and 1) with a scheme of 4/1/5/2. Warps 5, 19, 33, 47, 61 and 75 are provided with two short over portions of length 2, a long over portion of length 5 and three under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 2/1/5/1/2/1b. Warps 15, 29, 43, 57 and 71 are provided with two long over portions (respectively of length 4 and 5) and two short under portions (respectively of length 2 and 1) with a scheme of 5/1/4/2.
[0068]
[0069] The construction of
[0070] The construction of
[0071]
[0072] The construction of
[0073]
[0074] The construction of
[0075] In the weaving report of
[0076] As exceptions, in order to create a repeated twill pattern, warps 1, 15, 29, 43, 57 and 71 are provided with one over portion of length 2 and three over portions of length 1, one under portion of length 3, one under portion of length 2 and two under portions of length 2 with a scheme of 2/1/1/3/1/1/1/2
[0077] Warps 17, 31, 45, 59 and 73 are provided with one over portion of length 2 and three over portions of length 1, one under portion of length 3, one under portion of length 2 and two under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 2/1/1/3//1/1/1/2 and warps 5, 19, 33, 47, 61 and 75 are provided with one over portion of length 3 and two over portions of length 1, two under portions of length 3 and one under portion of length 1 with a scheme of 3/3/1/1/1/3. Warp 2 has a scheme of 1/3/1/1/1/3/1/1.
[0078]
[0079] The construction of
[0080] The construction of
[0081] The construction of
[0082] The construction of
[0083] For weft numbered 3, 16, 116, 107, the construction presents one over portion of length 5, one over portion of length 6, and two under portion of length 1, with a scheme of 6/1/5/1. For weft numbered 12 and 120 the construction presents two under portions of length 5, two over portions of length 2 and one over portion of length 1 with a scheme of 5/2/5/1.
[0084]
[0085] In particular, pick 1 of the construction of
[0086] Pick 2 has two long over portions respectively of lengths 38 and 40, two short over portions of length 1 and four short under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 38/1/1/1/1/1/40/1. Pick 3 has eleven over portions of length 5, three over portions of length 4, three under portions of length 2 and eleven under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 5/1/4/2/5/1/5/1/5/1/5/2/4/1/5/1/51/5/1/4/2/5/1/5/1/5/1.
[0087] Pick 4 has two long over portions respectively of lengths 60 and 18, one over portion of length 1, one under portion of length 3 and two under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 60/3/1/1/18/1. Pick 5 has seven over portions of length 5, six over portions of length 4, one over portion of length 3, seven under portions of length 2 and eight under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 3/2/5/1/4/2/4/2/5/2/4/1/5/1/4/2/5/1/5/1/5/1/2/1/2/1/5/2/4/2.
[0088] Pick 6 has two long over portions of length 36 and length 42, two over portions of length 1, one under portion of length 2 and two under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 36/42/1/2/1/1. Pick 7 has ten over portions of length 5, three over portions of length 4, two over portions of length 2, three under portions of length 2 and twelve under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 5/1/4/2/5/1/5/1/5/1/4/2/5/1/5/2/4/1/5/1/5/1/5/1/2/1/2/1/5/1.
[0089] Pick 8 has two over portion of length 25 and length 50), one over portion of length 2, two over portions of length 1, one under portion of length 2 and two under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 75/2/1/1/1/1/2/1. Pick 9 has eight over portions of length 5, six over portions of length 4, six under portions of length 2 and eight under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 2/5/1/4/2/4/2/5/1/5/1/5/2/4/1/5/1/5/1/5/1/5/2/4/1/4/2/4.
[0090] Pick 10 has (two over portion of length 11 and length 64), one over portion of length 2, two over portions of length 1, one under portion of length 2 and three under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 75/2/1/1/1/1/2/1. Pick 11 has nine over portions of length 5, four over portions of length 4, one under portion of length 3, six under portions of length 2 and eight under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 5/1/4/2/5/1/5/2/3/2/5/1/5/2/4/1/5/1/4/2/5/1/5/2/4/1/5/1. Pick 12 has two long over portions respectively of lengths 52 and 26, two over portions of length 1 and four under portions of length 1 with a scheme of 52/1/26/1/1/1/1/1.
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[0092]
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[0094] In some embodiments, the warp over portions extend over weft yarns so as to have a length comprised between 40 and 100 yarns. In a similar manner, instead of warp over portions, warp under portions can be provided. Warp over portions are preferred to impart the required furry appearance to the final fabric.
[0095] In an alternative embodiment, warp yarns and weft yarns are weaved following a pattern whereby the weft yarns are extending over a number of warp yarns and below a number of warp yarns to provide weft over portions in said front side and weft under portions in said back side and wherein the weft over portions have a length comprised between 25 and 3000, preferably 25 to 300 yarns. In some embodiments, the weft over portions have a length comprised between 40 and 100. In a similar manner, instead of weft over portions, weft under portions can be provided.
[0096] The woven fabric is the subjected to a finishing process (block 120). According to an embodiment, then the finished fabric may be subjected to a cutting process (block 130). The cutting process can be performed with any suitable machine with a knife or laser or using any type of chemical application for cutting. In general, the cutting process is used to improve or increase the fur-like look of the final product. Cutting can be made in different ways by using different machines. Laser cutting can be used in particular after a laundry process (block 150). In a further alternative embodiment, after a laundry process (block 150) no cutting is performed (block 170).
[0097] After cutting, the fabric may be subjected to a laundry process (block 140). In an alternative embodiment, a laundry process (block 150) is performed before cutting.
[0098] Then a cutting process is performed (block 160).
[0099] In general, the cutting process can be performed in a wide variety of ways, namely using:
1) Any cutting machine known in the art including a knife
2) Laser cutting
3) Ultrasonic fabric cutting machines
4) Any suitable chemical treatment
[0100] Concerning chemical treatments that can be used for the cutting process as described in the present invention, further details are provided here below.
[0101] Burn-out chemical agents can be used. Burn-out agents are strong acids as compounds which split off strong acids and which, in a subsequent heat treatment, destroy the cellulosic fibres. Heat treatment temperature can be 120-200 C., preferably 140-180 C. Suitable examples of burn-out agents are sulphuric acid and amino sulphonic acid, sodium bisulphate, aluminium sulphate, aluminium chloride, magnesium chloride, dibutylnapthalenesulphonic acid and p-toluenesulphonic acid, methanesulphonic acid and sulphonic acids from among arenemonosulphonic or arenedisulphonic acids.
[0102] Further suitable burn-out agents are the alkali metal salts of sulphonic acids, particular the sodium or potassium salts in combination with sulphuric acid.
[0103] Preferable burn-out agents are sodium bisulphate, aluminium sulphate, p-tallenesulphonic acid, methane-sulhonic acid and alkylnaphtnalene sulphonic acids possibly mixed with sulphuric acid.
[0104] The fabric is printed with the burn-out agent as customary in the form of a burn-out paste. Print can be full print or designed print.
[0105] The amount of burn-out agent to be used in the burn-out pastes increases with the cellulose content of the blend fabric.
[0106] Active burn out agents such as, for example, sodium bisulphate or hydrogensulphate may be 20-350 gr/kg, and preferably 50 to 250 gr/kg. These quantities are normally required to obtain acceptable burn-out style fabrics at the amounts of burn-out paste customarily used and to destroy cellulosic fibres.
[0107] Active burn-out agents, such as, sulphonic acids require as a rule burn-out agent concentrations in the burn-out pastes of 3 to 160 gr/kg, preferably to 40 to 140 gr/kg. As is usual the burn-out pastes in addition to the burn-out agents also contain water, thickeners and auxiliaries dispersing agent, wetting agent, carrier, glycerol).
[0108] Examples of suitable thickeners are starch degradation products such as dextrin, non-ionic starch derivatives, such as British gum, types of gum, such as gum arabic, locust bean gum ether thickener and guar derivatives.
[0109] While at least one exemplary embodiment was disclosed in the foregoing summary and detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist. The exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration in any way. Rather, the foregoing summary and detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing at least one exemplary embodiment, it being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope as set forth in the appended claims and their legal equivalents.