KNITTED CONTINUOUS FILAMENT LYOCELL FABRICS

Abstract

The invention relates to a knit fabric. There is a need for knit fabrics made that are comfortable to wear, have good washability and high softness. Good washability implies both dimensional stability of the fabric and maintaining positive surface aspects such as hairiness, pilling and fiber splice even after several washings. This object is solved according to the invention by a knitted fabric made from at least one yarn which consists of or contains lyocell filaments. The resulting fabric has a high wearing comfort and superior mechanical qualities.

Claims

1. A knit fabric made from at least one yarn which contains or consists of lyocell filaments.

2. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn comprises at least 10% lyocell filaments.

3. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn has at least 2000 TPM.

4. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the combined shrinkage of the knit fabric after one to five washings is less than 10%.

5. The knit fabric according to claim 4, wherein the combined shrinkage of the knit fabric after one to five washings is less than 5%.

6. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the spirality over 50 cm is less than 20 mm after one washing.

7. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the hairiness of the knit fabric has a grade not worse than 3 in the original state.

8. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knit fabric has a grade of not worse than 4 in a Martindale pilling test after 1000 and/or 2000 cycles and/or not worse than 3.5 after 5000 cycles in the original state and/or after five washings.

9. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knit fabric scores at least 40000 cycles no destruction and/or to hole formation in a Martindale abrasion test.

10. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is dyed with at least one of a reactive, vat, sulphur and direct dye.

11. The knit fabric according to claim 10, wherein the dye used is at least one of a bifunctional and a multifunctional dyestuff, and wherein the cellulose in the yarn is cross-linked.

12. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is resin finished.

13. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is a peach skin fabric.

14. A textile article, comprising a knit fabric according to claim 1.

15. A yarn containing or consisting of lyocell filaments.

16. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the spirality over 50 cm is less than 25 mm after five washings.

17. The knit fabric according to claim 1, wherein the hairiness of the knit fabric has a grade not worse than 3 after one washing.

18. The textile article according to claim 14, wherein the article is a garment.

Description

[0055] The invention also relates to use of a yarn containing or consisting of lyocell filaments in a knit fabric.

Tests

[0056] A Martindale abrasion test according to DIN EN ISO 12947-2; [0057] a Martindale pilling test according to DIN EN ISO 12945-2; [0058] washing shrinkage according to DIN EN ISO 5077; from the absolute values of the shrinkage in both samples direction the sum was taken as a combined shrinkage; [0059] fastness to rubbing according to ISO 105 X12; AATCC durable press rating according to DIN EN ISO 15487; [0060] air permeability according to DIN EN ISO 9237; [0061] fastness according to DIN EN 20105-A02; [0062] yarn strength in the warp and weft according to DIN EN ISO 2062; [0063] moisture regain according to ASTMD 1909; [0064] luster of the yarns was determined at an angle of 45 according to EN 14086-01/2003; and [0065] luster of the fabrics was determined at an angle of 75 according to TAPPI T480.

[0066] For the end consumer, it is important how the look of a fabric changes after washing. To assess this the surface aspects hairiness, pilling and fiber splice were determined according to the following methods:

[0067] The tests were carried out by 3 persons in a dark room in which a color assessment cabinet Multilight Datacolor of Variolux with daylight lamps D65 was provided. The lamps were mounted on an upper side of the cabinet.

[0068] For testing hairiness, the test sample was held oblique by the test person and the hairiness was graded between best (grade 5, no hairiness) and worst (grade 1, long protruding fibers up to 2 mm).

[0069] The number of pillings was assessed using reference samples (knits K3 or K2, or wovens W3 or W2) of EMPA Standard SN 198525 analogous to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2. The reference samples are graded with 1 to 5 and are compared to the test samples. For no pills, grade 5 is given. The more pills there are on the surface of the test samples the worse the grade gets. The worst grade is 1.

[0070] Fiber splice is created if fibrillic fibers are moved to the surface by scouring. The fibrillic fibers are brushlike ends with stick out if the scoured sample is analyzed under a microscope. For measuring fiber splice, a microscope SM with an X10 eyepiece made by UHL Technische Mikroskope was used. For a smooth surface which showed no fibrilles, grade 5 was given. If there was a dense fur of long, curved fiber ends that were partly detached from the surface, grade 1 was given.

[0071] In all three tests, intermediate grades were possible.

[0072] If samples were subjected to washing, washing was performed according to DIN EN ISO 6330. Tests to assess parameters in the dry state are performed in the conditioned state 65/20, i.e. in the state where the fabric is at equilibrium with its surroundings which were kept at 65% humidity and 20 C.

[0073] Hereby, weight was determined according to DIN EN 12127. Yarn count in the weft and warp was performed in accordance with DIN 53820-3.

[0074] Spirality was determined in measuring the deviation from the course in mm at a distance of 50 cm from the origin.

[0075] All standards mentioned in this application are included by reference in their entirety.

[0076] Samples were prepared as follows.

Samples

[0077] The materials and characteristics of the single jersey blends of samples 1 to 9 are summarized in Table 1a and 1b.

[0078] These samples demonstrate the combinations of different filaments in yarns as well as the positive influence of lyocell filaments in the knit fabric with respect to washability, in particular shrinkage, and pilling according to the Martindale test after washing. It is also demonstrated that the shrinkage is strongly influenced by the twist level. The yarn legs of the lyocell filament yarn can have any number of plies and any twist and any direction. Core yarns can be used. And the yarns may be intermingled.

[0079] In the samples, a fabric was considered light if its weight was not more than 100 g/m.sup.2, medium if its weight was above 100 g/m.sup.2 and not more than 220 g/m.sup.2 and heavy if the weight exceeded 220 g/m.sup.2.

[0080] Sample 1 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with 0 TPM (twists per meter). This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a medium weight of 140 g/m.sup.2.

[0081] Sample 2 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with TPM 160. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a light weight of 89 g/m.sup.2.

[0082] Sample 3 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with TPM 1200. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a light weight of 99 g/m.sup.2.

[0083] Sample 4 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 150f90 with TPM 2100. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a medium weight of 121 g/m.sup.2.

[0084] Sample 5 was made as a single jersey with a two plies of lyocell filament dtex 100f60 intermingled and twisted with TPM 1200. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a heavy weight of 289 g/m.sup.2.

[0085] Sample 6 was made as a single jersey with a two plies of lyocell filament dtex 300f180 intermingled. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a medium weight of 181 g/m.sup.2.

[0086] Sample 7 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 60f30 with 0 TPM. This resulted in a fabric having 100% lyocell filament. The single jersey had a light weight of 100 g/m.sup.2.

[0087] Sample 8 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of lyocell filament dtex 60f30 with 0 TPM plated on the knitting machine with 22 dtex elastane. This resulted in a fabric having 90% lyocell filament and 10% elastane. The single jersey had a medium weight of 129 g/m.sup.2.

[0088] Sample 9 was made as a single jersey with a two-ply twist of lyocell filament dtex 40f30 twisted with TPM 500 plated with 22 dtex elastane. This resulted in a fabric having 90% lyocell filament and 10% elastane. The single jersey had a light weight of 100 g/m.sup.2.

[0089] The materials and characteristics after washing and drying of the 100% lyocell filament single jerseys of samples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 1a, those of the single jerseys of samples 5 to 9 in Table 1b.

[0090] Sample 10 was made as a single jersey with a two-ply twist on the base of Lyocell Filament dtex 40f30 with a yarn-twist of TPM 1200 plated on the knitting machine with 22 dtex Elastane. This resulted in a fabric having 90% lyocell filament and 10% elastane. The single jersey had a medium weight of 101 g/m.sup.2.

[0091] Sample 11 is a commercially available comparative sample having 85% polyamide and 15% elastane. The single jersey had a medium weight of 122 g/m.sup.2.

[0092] Sample 12 was made as a single jersey with a yarn count of 80 dtex with 60 filaments bright 0 TPM intermingled with a polyester texturized yarn. This resulted in a fabric having 50% lyocell filament and 50% polyester. The single jersey had a heavy weight of 227 g/m.sup.2.

[0093] Sample 13 is a commercially available comparative sample having 92% polyester filament and 8% elastane. The single jersey had a medium weight of 161 g/m.sup.2.

[0094] The materials and characteristics of the single jersey blends of samples 10 to 13 are summarized in Table 2. These samples demonstrate the combinations of different filaments in yarns as well as the positive influence of lyocell filaments in the knit fabric with respect to washability, in particular shrinkage, and pilling according to the Martindale test after washing. For example, a staple fiber yarn may be plied with at least one lyocell filament. The yarn legs can have any number of plies and any twist and any direction. Core yarns can be used. And the yarns may be intermingled.

[0095] Sample 14 was made as an interlock with an yarn count of 150 dtex with 90 filaments and 0 TPM together used with an elastic core yarn of polyamide in a 2 by 2 knitting system. This resulted in a fabric having 60% lyocell filament, 40% polyamide and 10% elastane. The interlock had a heavy weight of 347 g/m.sup.2.

[0096] Sample 15 was made as an interlock with an yarn count of 80 dtex with 60 filaments bright 0 TPM intermingled with a polyester dull filament. This resulted in a fabric having 50% Lyocell Filament and 50% polyester. The interlock had a heavy weight of 270 g/m.sup.2.

[0097] Sample 16 was made as an interlock with an yarn count of 80 dtex with 60 filaments dull 0 TPM intermingled with a polyester dull filament. This resulted in a fabric having 50% lyocell filament and 50% polyester. The interlock had a medium weight of 192 g/m.sup.2.

[0098] Sample 17 was made as an interlock with an intermingled yarn on the base of lyocell filament 50 dtex with 30 single filaments bright with 0 TPM and 22 dtex elastane dull. The interlock had a medium weight of 189 g/m.sup.2.

[0099] Table 3 presents an overview of the interlock samples 14 to 17 with respect to the material composition and properties. It can be seen that over a wide range of 50 to 150 dtex and for yarn having 0 TPM, the resulting knit fabrics are washable and have an excellent shrinkage.

[0100] Samples 18 to 21 were made as an interlock with an intermingled yarn on the base of lyocell filament 50 dtex with 30 single filaments bright with 0 TPM and 22 dtex elastane dull. The interlock had a medium weight of 204 g/m.sup.2. The material of samples 18 to 21 is identical. They differ, however, in their treatment as follows to investigate how fibrillation can be influenced and how fibrillation affects surface aspects of the knit such as pilling, hairiness and fiber splice.

[0101] Fibrillation Tests

[0102] The material of sample 18 was subjected to resin finishing, which resulted in sample 19, to mechanical polishing, which resulted in sample 20, and to peach skin treatment, which resulted in sample 21. The material of samples 18 to 21 and the change in characteristics due to the different treatment is summarized in Table 4.

Resin Finishing

[0103] The resin recipe for finishing the material of sample 18 was

[0104] 40 g/l Knittex FEL

[0105] 12 g/l MgCl.sub.2

[0106] squeezing effect: 80%.

[0107] Drying was performed at 130 C. Curing was performed for 45 sec at 175 C. Thus, sample 19 was obtained.

Mechanical Polishing

[0108] The material of sample 18 was also subjected to mechanical polishing to obtain sample 21 as follows.

[0109] First, the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 C. and 22 rpm using as a detergent 1 g/l Kieralon JET, 2 g/l Soda and 1 g/l Persoftal L (1.2 kg of material and 150 l of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed and centrifugated and then dried hanging. After that, resin finishing took place in a stenter using the above recipe. After resin finishing, mechanical polishing was applied by tumbling the sample in an air tumbler for 7 minutes.

Peach Skin

[0110] For the peach skin treatment, the material of sample 18 was first washed, then enzyme-treated, finished and then tumble-dried.

[0111] First the sample was washed using a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 C. and 22 rpm using as a detergent 1 g/l Kieralon JET, 2 g/l Soda and 1 g/l Persoftal L (1.2 kg of material and 150 l of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed and centrifugated and then dried hanging. After that, resin finishing took place in a stenter using the above recipe.

[0112] First the sample was washed in a Tupesa machine for 60 minutes at 80 C. and 22 rpm using as a detergent 1 g/l Kieralon JET, 2 g/l Soda and 1 g/l Persoftal L (1.2 kg of material and 150 l of water). After washing, the sample was rinsed.

[0113] In order to achieve a peach skin effect enzyme treatment took place in a Tupesa washing machine at 22 rpm, using 0.6 kg of material and 100 l water with

[0114] 0.5 g/l Perlavin NIC

[0115] 4.0 g/l Perilan VF

[0116] 0.4 g/l Perilan RFC

[0117] 3.0 g/l Peristal E.

[0118] The enzyme treatment started at 55 C. After 5 min, the pH value was controlled. If pH reached 5.5, 2.0 g/l Perizym 2000 were added. Then the treatment continued for 45 minutes at 55 C.

[0119] At the end of the enzyme treatment, heating to 85 C. took place and the treatment continued for 15 minutes. Then the water was drained, the material was rinsed with warm water and then cold water.

[0120] For further finishing, 2% Tubingal RGH were applied in the Tupesa washing machine and treatment continued for 20 minutes at 40 C. at pH 6.

[0121] After that, the material was centrifugated and dried in a tumbler at 80 C. for 50 minutes. The material was then allowed to cool down for 10 minutes. This resulted in sample 21.

The TSA Test

[0122] The TSA test was carried out to verify that the haptic qualities of the lyocell filament knit are at least equal if not superior to existing knits.

[0123] The TSA test was carried out to asses softness and smoothness, the two haptic qualities that are very important to the end consumer.

[0124] The TSA test is described in SchloBer et al., Griffbeurteilung von Textilien mittels Schallanalyse, Meilland Textilberichte, 1/2102, p. 43-45, in the emtec publication Gruner, A new and objective measuring technique to analyze the softness of tissue (2012), in the TSA Operating Instructions, and in Neue and Objektive Messtechnik fr Softness-Analyse in avr-Allgemeiner Vliesstoff Report 5/2015, p. 99-101. Originally developed to measure softness and smoothness of tissues and non-wovens using sound spectra, it has been adapted to also evaluate the softness and smoothness of woven fabrics.

[0125] The TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer device of emtec electronics GmbH, Leipzig, Germany, and the software ESM which is shipped with the TSA. The TSA measures a sound spectrum which results from pressing and rotating a star-like body against a sample fabric with a defined force. For testing, the fabric is clamped around its perimeter and unsupported otherwise, in particular opposite the rotating body. In the TSA test performed here, the software and its evaluation algorithm was not used. Instead, the sound pressure as measured by the TSA at 7 kHz (TS7) was taken as an objective indirect measure of softness and the sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by the TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness. The sound pressure is automatically given by the TSA as dB V.sup.2 rms, where V is the rotational velocity of the rotating body. Using these values directly avoided any problems that may have arisen due to the EMS algorithm having been developed for tissue, and not for woven fabrics. A total of four probes was subjected to the TSA test for each sample.

[0126] For testing, a fabric sample of 11 cm diameter was clamped as required by the TSA device and tested without stretching.

[0127] Lower values of TS7 indicate higher softness and lower values of TS750 indicate higher value of smoothness.

Handle-O-Meter Tests

[0128] The Handle-O-Meter tests were carried out using a Handle-O-Meter testing device of Thwing-Albert Instrument Company, West Berlin, N.J., USA. Sample size was 10 cm10 cm. The inch slot was used with a 1,000 g beam and a stainless steel surface. The tests were conducted on samples cond. 65/20.

[0129] In both the TSA and the Handle-O-Meter tests, only the right side of the knit was considered.

[0130] As a result, the Handle-O-Meter yields two force measurements which are assigned to two orthogonal directions, a machine direction MD which in the chosen set-up corresponded to the warp direction and a cross direction CD which in the chosen setup corresponded to the weft direction. These forces are correlated to the stiffness and smoothness of the tested surface. The force is normalized with the bulk weight of the test sample, resulting in a specific hand in mN m.sup.2 g.sup.1.

[0131] It can be concluded from the TSA and the Handle-O-Meter tests that the lyocell filament knit according to the invention shows an excellent handfeel.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1a Samples 1 to 4: 100% Lyocell Filament Single Jerseys Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Sample 4 Fabric Type Medium weight Light weight Light weight Medium weight single jersey single jersey single jersey single jersey fabric material 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell composition filament filament filament filament material 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell analysis filament bright filament bright filament bright filament bright dtex 150 f90 dtex 150 f90 dtex 150 f90 dtex 150 f90 TPM 0 TPM 160 TPM 1200 TPM 2100 special printed open width open width open width finishing dyed dyed dyed yarn flat 0 TPM 160 TPM 1200 TPM 2100 TPM construction yarn countdtex 150 150 150 150 filaments- 90 90 90 90 number weightg/m.sup.2 140 89 99 121 surface aspect after wash- cycles hairiness grade after 2.5 4 4.5 4.5 1st wash grade after 3 4 4.5 4.5 5th wash pilling grade after 4 4 4.5 4.5 1st wash grade after 3.5 4 4.5 4.5 5th wash fiber splice grade after 1.5 1.5 1.5 1 1st wash grade after 1 1 1 1 5th wash laundering test 40 C. line. drying after each wash washing shrinkage L % after 1st wash 3.2 11.4 17.4 31.9 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 5.3 15.7 27.6 43.5 cond. 20/65 laundering test 40 C. line. drying after each wash washing shrinkage C % after 1st wash 1.3 3.8 10.5 28.3 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 0.6 6 12.1 27 cond. 20/65 spirality - over 50 cm after 1st 16 25 13 43 washmm after 5th 0 25 0 50 washmm

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1b Samples 5 to 9: 100% Lyocell Filament Single Jerseys Sample 5 Sample 6 Sample 7 Sample 8 Sample 9 fabric type Heavy weight Medium weight Light weight Medium weight Medium weight single jersey single jersey single jersey single jersey single jersey fabric 90% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 90% lyocell 90% lyocell material filament/10% filament filament filament/10% filament/10% composition elastane elastane elastane material lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell lyocell lyocell analysis filament filament filament filament filament bright dtex bright dtex bright 60 bright 60 bright single 100 f60 300 f180 dtex f30 dtex f30 yarn count: Intermingled intermingled single single 1.48 dtex 2 plies TPM filament filament dtex 40 f30 1200 plated count: 2.23 count: 2.17 2 plies TPM elastane: dtex dtex plated 500 plated lycra dull 22 elastane: elastane: dtex lycra dull 22 lycra dull 22 dtex dtex special open width open width open width open width printed finishing dyed dyed dyed dyed yarn intermingled - flat 0 TPM - flat 0 TPM flat 0 TPM 500 TPM construction 1200 TPM intermingled yarn 100 300 64 65 82 countdtex filaments 60 180 30 30 60/2 number single yarn 41 countdtex weightg/m.sup.2 269 181 100 129 103 surface aspect after wash-cycles hairiness grade after 3.5 3 3 4 3.5 1st wash grade after 4 4 4 5 3.5 5th wash pilling grade after 3.5 3 3.5 3.5 4 1st wash grade after 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 4 5th wash fiber splice grade after 2 1.5 2 2 2 1st wash grade after 1 1 1 1 1.5 5th wash laundering test 40 C. line. drying after each wash washing shrinkage L % after 1st 0.7 7.8 0.3 0 0.7 wash cond. 20/65 after 5th 0.3 10.8 3.1 0.7 2 wash cond. 20/65 laundering test 40 C. line drying after each wash washing shrinkage C % after 1st 3.6 1.9 1 2 2.6 wash cond. 20/65 after 5th 2.3 4.1 1.7 3.7 0 wash cond. 20/65 spirality - over 50 cm after 1st 0 20 13 0 0 washmm after 5th 0 23 18 0 0 washmm

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 2 Single Jersey Blends Comparative Comparative Sample 10 Sample 11 Sample 12 Sample 13 fabric type Medium weight Medium weight Heavy weight Heavy weight single jersey single jersey single jersey single jersey design code red single dark blue melange single blue single jersey single jersey jersey jersey fabric material 90% lyocell 85% polyamide 50% lyocell 92% polyamide ratio filament/ 15% elastane filament/ 8% elastane 10% elastane 50% polyester material lyocell 85% lyocell 92% polyester filament polyamide 15% filament filament 8% dtex40f30 elastane dtex80f60 elastane bright two bright plies twisted intermingled Z-twist + S- with draw twist with textured yarn TPM 1200 dtex75f36 plated with elastane 22 dtex special open width dyed open width dyed finishing dyed dyed only lyocell filaments material two plies 100% 4 yarns: 100% 60% polyester analysis twist: 1 yarn: polyarnide dull polyester dull - dull 1.68 dtex 100% lyocell 1.14 dtex filament 1 40% polyester filament (optical n = 20) yarn: 100% dull 1.06 dtex single filament fused elastane lyocell ilament (optical n = 20) count: 1.29 (100% lycra single filament filament fused dtex S-twist 1 dull 22 dtex - count: 1.44 (pointwise yarn: 100% filament) dtex fixed) elastane lyocell (100% lycra filament single bright 22 dtex- filament count: filament) 1.29 dtex Z- twist filament on the machine plated with elastane (100% lycra dull 22 dtex - filament) yarn 2-plies twisted Intermingled construction: with TPM 1200 yarn countdtex 40 2 44 476 100 single yarn 40 80 countdtex filaments S-twist: 60 41 57 84 number Z-twist: 60 yarn twist TPM 1200 weightg/m.sup.2 101 122 227 200 laundering test 40 C. gentle. del. tumble drying after each wash washing shrinkage L % after 1st wash 1.9 3.3 1.9 1.3 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 2.4 3.6 5.6 1.7 cond. 20/65 washing shrinkage C % after 1st wash 1.8 0.7 0 0.3 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 1.4 0.3 0.7 0 cond. 20/65 spirality- over 50 cm after 1st 19 0 washmm after 5th 25 0 washmm surface aspect after wash- cycles hairiness grade after 3 5 1st wash grade after 3.5 4.5 5th wash pilling grade after 3.5 5 1st wash grade after 2.5 4.5 5th wash grade fiber splice grade after 2.5 4.5 1st wash grade after 2 2.5 5th wash yarn strengthcN/tex original 15.6 30.9 22.9 33.5 after 1st wash 17.6 19.7 24.9 31.9 after 5th wash 16 22.1 24.7 28.2 yarn elongation % original 2.7 23.9 24.3 26.7 after 1st wash 3.1 17.1 30.5 23.3 after 5th wash 3.1 19.1 29.6 19.4 abrasion test Martindale original cycles-sample 1875 >100000 100000 41250 not destroyed cycles to hole 2375 >100000 >100000 46250 formation after 1st wash cycles-sample 1875 >100000 100000 57500 not destroyed cycles to hole 2375 >100000 >100000 67500 formation pilling test of Martindale original grade after 3.5 5 4 4.5 1000 cycles grade after 4 4.5 5 4.5 2000 cycles grade after 4 4.5 5 4.5 5000 cycles after 1st wash grade after 4.5 5 4 5 1000 cycles grade after 4 5 5 5 2000 cycles grade after 3.5 5 5 4.5 5000 cycles

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 3 Interlock Fabrics Sample 14 Sample 15 Sample 16 Sample 17 fabric type heavy weight medium weight medium weight heavy weight Interlock Interlock Interlock Interlock fabric material 60% lyocell 50% lyocell 50% lyocell 90% lyocell ratio filament/40% filament/50% filament/50% Filament/ PA/10% EL PES PES 10% EL material lyocell lyocell lyocell lyocell filament dtex filament dtex filament dtex filament 50 150 dtex f90 80f60 bright 80f60 bright dtex f30 bright bright 0 TPM 0 TPM 0 TPM 0 TPM intermingled intermingled with PES with PES special open width open width open width open width finishing dyed dyed only dyed only dyed lyocell lyocell filament dyed filament dyed yarn system 2: 2: 2 system 2fold - system 2fold - core-yarn: 100% construction yarns: 100% intermingled: intermingled: lyocell lyocell 1 yarn: 100% 1 yarn: 100% filament single filament lyocell lyocell filament count: single filament filament dull filament 1.79 dtex with count: 1.64 single filament single filament core of dtex 2 yarns: count 1.35 count: 1.37 elastane (100% 100% dtex 1 yarn: dtex 1 yarn: lycra dull polyamide 6.6 100% 100% 22 dtex - dull filament polyester dull polyester dull filament) with elastane- filament filament core: 100% lycra dull 33 dtex yarn lyocell intermingled intermingled lyocell construction filament filament 0 TPM 0 TPM yarn countdtex 161 270 192 65 filaments 90 60 60 30 number yarn twistTPM 0 0 0 0 weightg/m.sup.2 347 190 173 189 laundering test 40 C. gentle. del. tumble dry after each wash. washing shrinkage L % after 1st wash 1 1 3.3 6.9 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 0 1.3 5 6.6 cond. 20/65 washing shrinkage C % after 1st wash 5.5 0.3 1 1 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 6 0.3 1 2 cond. 20/65 surface aspect after wash- cycles hairiness original 3 3 grade after 4 3 3 3 1st wash grade after 3.5 3 3 3 5th wash pilling original 3 3 grade after 4 3.5 3 3 1st wash grade after 3.5 3.5 2.5 3.5 5th wash fiber splice original 2 3 grade after 4.5 2 2 2.5 1st wash grade after 3.5 2 2 1.5 5th wash yarn strengthcN/tex original 17.1 22.8 16.3 9.7 after 1st wash 21.2 22.2 15.9 13.6 after 5th wash 8.6 21.9 13.9 11.3 yarn elongation % original 7.6 24.3 15.8 4.6 after 1st wash 9.6 23.4 15 5.1 after 5th wash 7.3 21.8 14.2 4.6 air 569 2370 1435 485 permeabilityl/ m.sup.2/s abrasion test Martindale original cycles-sample >100000 >100000 50000 12000* not destroyed cycles to hole >100000 >100000 55000 14000* formation after 1st wash cycles-sample >100000 >100000 47500 14000* not destroyed cycles to hole >100000 >100000 52500 14000* formation pilling test of Martindale original grade after 4.5 3.5 4.5 5 1000 cycles grade after 3.5 3 4 5 2000 cycles grade after 2 3 3.5 5 5000 cycles after 1st wash grade after 4.5 4.5 4.5 5 1000 cycles grade after 3.5 4 4 4.5 2000 cycles grade after 2 3.5 4 5 5000 cycles

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 4 Interlock, Effect of Fibrillation Sample 18 Sample 19 Sample 20 Sample 21 fabric type heavy weight heavy weight heavy weight heavy weight Interlock Interlock Interlock Interlock fabric material 90% lyocell 90% lyocell 90% lyocell 90% lyocell ratio filament/10% filament/10% filament/10% filament/10% EL.sup.1 EL EL EL material 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell 100% lyocell filament dtex filament dtex filament dtex filament dtex 50f30 bright 50f30 bright 50f30 bright 50f30 bright intermingled + intermingled + intermingled + intermingled + elastane 22 elastane 22 Elasthane Elasthane dtex dtex 22 dtex 22 dtex special open width resin finish mechanical peach skin finishing dyed polishing yarn core yarn: 100% core yarn: 100% core yarn: 100% core yarn: 100% construction lyocell lyocell lyocell lyocell filament single filament single filament single filament single filament count: filament count: filament count: filament count: 1.79 dtex with 1.79 dtex with 1.79 dtex with 1.79 dtex with core of core of core of core of elastane (100% elastane (100% elastane (100% elastane (100% lycra dull lycra dull lycra dull lycra dull 22 dtex - 22 dtex - 22 dtex - 22 dtex - filament) filament) filament) filament) yarn intermingled intermingled intermingled intermingled construction yarn countdtex 65 65 65 65 filaments 30 30 30 30 number yarn twistTPM 0 0 0 0 weightg/m.sup.2 204 204 204 204 laundering test 40 C. gentle, del. tumble drying after each wash washing shrinkage L % after 1st wash 6.3 5.4 5.8 6.8 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 6.3 5.3 5.7 6.4 cond. 20/65 washing shrinkage C % after 1st wash 1.6 1.4 1.5 1.7 cond. 20/65 after 5th wash 1.6 1.4 1.5 1.7 cond. 20/65 surface aspect after wash- cycles hairiness original grade after 3 3.5 4 3 1st wash grade after 4 3 3.5 4 5th wash pilling original grade after 3.5 3.5 4 3.5 1st wash grade after 4.5 3 3 3.5 5th wash fiber splice original grade after 2 4 5 2 1st wash grade after 1.5 3.5 4.5 1.5 5th wash .sup.1EL: Elastan