Process for treating keratin fibres with an oxidised polysaccharide and a sphingosine compound

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising: (i) a step of applying an oxidized polysaccharide, (ii) a step of heating to a temperature of at least 100 C., (iii) a step of applying a compound (I) R.sub.iCHOHCH(NHCOY)(CH.sub.2OH) (I). The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an oxidized polysaccharide and a compound (I) for which YH and to kits. The process makes it possible to obtain good hair-conditioning cosmetic properties, with a long-lasting effect.

Claims

1. A process for treating damaged keratin fibers, the process comprising: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oxidized polysaccharide in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein the at least one oxidized polysaccharide is chosen from those of formula (II):
P(CHO)m(COOX)n(II) wherein: P is a polysaccharide chain chosen from inulins, X is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal, sodium ion, potassium ion, ammonia, organic amines, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, basic amino acids, lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, or citrulline, m+n is greater than or equal to 1, m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide with at least one aldehyde group (DS(CHO)) ranges from about 0.001 to about 2, and n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide with at least one carboxylic group (DS(COOX)) ranges from about 0 to about 2, (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least about 170 C., and (iii) applying to the keratin fibers at least one sphingosine derivative compound chosen from dihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, or N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one oxidized polysaccharide is anionic or nonionic.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one oxidized polysaccharide comprises at least one aldehyde group and optionally at least one anionic group, carboxyl group, and/or carboxylate group.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein applying the at least one sphingosine derivative compound comprises applying a cosmetic composition comprising the sphingosine derivative compound in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the heating step is performed at a temperature ranging from about 170 C. to about 250 C.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the steps are performed in a sequence chosen from the following: applying the at least one oxidized polysaccharide or a first cosmetic composition comprising the at least one oxidized polysaccharide, then applying the at least one sphingosine derivative compound or a second cosmetic composition containing the at least one sphingosine derivative compound, and then heating the keratin fibers; simultaneously applying the at least one oxidized polysaccharide or a first cosmetic composition comprising the at least one oxidized polysaccharide, and the at least one sphingosine derivative compound or a second cosmetic composition comprising the at least one sphingosine derivative compound, and then heating the keratin fibers; applying a cosmetic composition comprising both the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and the at least one sphingosine derivative compound, and then heating the keratin fibers; or applying the at least one oxidized polysaccharide or a first cosmetic composition comprising the at least one oxidized polysaccharide, then heating the keratin fibers, then applying the at least one sphingosine derivative compound or a second cosmetic composition comprising the at least one sphingosine derivative compound, and then optionally heating the keratin fibers an additional time.

7. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process further comprises drying the keratin fibers after the application of the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or of the at least one sphingosine derivative compound and before heating the keratin fibers, the drying step being performed at a temperature ranging from about 20 C. to about 70 C.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein after application to the keratin fibers of the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or of the at least one sphingosine derivative compound, and before heating the keratin fibers, the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or the at least one sphingosine derivative compound is left on the keratin fibers for a time ranging from about 1 to about 60 minutes.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the heating step is performed with a straightening iron.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the heating step is performed by applying a straightening iron to the keratin fibers in a substantially continuous movement from the root to the end of the keratin fibers, in at least one pass.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process is performed on damaged keratin fibers, keratin fibers that are not artificially dyed, and/or hair.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein either or both of the at least one oxidized polysaccharide and/or the at least one sphingosine derivative compound is present in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

Description

(1) The examples that follow are given as illustrations of the present invention. The amounts indicated in the examples are expressed as weight percentages.

(2) Oxidized Polysaccharide Tested (Compound 1)

(3) Compound 1 was prepared by oxidation of inulin sold under the name Inutec N25 by the company Orafti, by performing a reactive extrusion process as described in the article Water-soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reactive extrusion by R. E. Wing and J. L. Willett, Industrial Crops and Products 7, 1997, pages 45-52. A BC21 co-rotating twin-screw extruder sold by the company Clextral was used, and aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution was used as oxidizing agent.

(4) Compound 1: oxidized inulin obtained by reactive extrusion of a mixture of 78% by weight of inulin and 1.57% by weight of aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution; the spontaneous pH after reactive extrusion is 3.8. Compound 1 thus obtained has a carbonyl content of 1.23% (w/w) and a carboxyl content of 0.17% (w/w).

(5) Compositions Prepared

(6) TABLE-US-00001 Compositions A B C D E X Compound 1 1 1 1 N- 0.1 1 Oleoyldihydrosphingosine Dihydrosphingosine 1 1 Water/ethanol qs (50/50 100 weight/weight) Water/ethanol qs qs (70/30 100 100 weight/weight) Water qs qs qs 100 100 100

(7) In the application examples described below, locks of hair that were highly sensitized after bleaching (SA 45%) were used. The composition to be evaluated is applied at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of locks. Each composition tested is applied on three locks.

(8) Application Process 1:

(9) Composition A (containing 1% of compound 1) was applied to locks of hair and then left on for 15 or 30 minutes at 40 C.

(10) The locks were dried manually and composition B (containing 0.1% of N-oleoyl-dihydrosphingosine) or composition E (containing 1% of dihydrosphingosine) was then applied and left on for 15 minutes at 40 C., and the locks were then dried manually again.

(11) The locks were then dried under a hood for 10 minutes at 60 C.

(12) The locks were combed before applying a straightening iron at a temperature of 180 C. by performing five continuous passes through the locks for 40 seconds.

(13) For comparative purposes, the same protocol was also performed on locks with on the one hand, composition A (1% of compound 1) and, on the other hand, composition B and composition E. A control lock treated only with water and with or without application of the straightening iron was also prepared.

(14) To evaluate the durable (persistent) nature of the cosmetic properties of the locks of hair, they were then washed with one shampoo according to the following protocol:

(15) The treated locks were washed with an aqueous solution containing 15% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate at a rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair, at a temperature of 38 C.

(16) Moisten the lock for 5 seconds with water. Apply the shampoo, massaging the lock from the root to the end for 15 seconds. Rinse with water for 10 seconds. Dry manually. Dry the locks for 10 minutes per gram of hair at 60 C. with a hairdryer.

(17) The cosmetic properties of the locks after shampooing was then evaluated, especially the cosmetic feel, the manageability and the ease of combing of the locks, the body effect and the sheen.

(18) The following results were obtained:

(19) TABLE-US-00002 Type of lock of hair Cosmetic properties after shampooing Sensitized hair treated with Coarse feel. Dull lock and difficult to comb. composition (X) (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized hair treated with Less coarse feel. Difficult to comb, same composition (X) (control) + heat (Lock 2) level as Lock 1. Dull Lock. Sensitized hair treated with Slightly manageable lock, easier to comb composition (A) + heat (Lock 3) than Lock 1. The hair has body. Slightly improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, sparingly manageable composition (B) + heat (Lock 4) and soft, pleasant cosmetic feel. The hair has no body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, sparingly manageable composition (E) + heat (Lock 11) and soft, pleasant cosmetic feel. The hair has no body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock very easy to comb, manageable and composition (A) and then very soft feel. The hair has the most body. composition (B) + heat (Lock 5) Markedly improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock very easy to comb, manageable and composition (A) and then very soft feel. The hair has the most body. composition (E) + heat (Lock 6) Markedly improved sheen.

(20) The locks of hair were then classified as a function of their cosmetic properties (soft, pleasant cosmetic feel, manageability, ease of combing, sheen and hair body) after having performed one shampoo wash.

(21) TABLE-US-00003 After shampooing Lock 5 Lock 6 > Lock 4 > Lock 11 > Lock 3 > Lock 2 > Lock 1

(22) The locks treated via the process according to the invention, and after having undergone one shampoo wash, have better cosmetic properties in terms of soft feel, manageability and ease of combing, and the hair has more body and markedly improved sheen. These cosmetic properties thus have good persistence on shampooing.

(23) In addition, the colour of the treated hair is not modified.

(24) Application Process 2:

(25) Composition C (containing 1% of compound 1 and 1% of N-oleoyl-dihydrosphingosine) and composition D (containing 1% of compound 1 and 1% of dihydrosphingosine) were independently applied to locks of hair, for 30 minutes at 40 C.

(26) The locks were dried manually and then dried under a hood for 10 minutes at 60 C.

(27) The locks were combed before applying a straightening iron at a temperature of 180 C. by performing five continuous passes through the locks for 40 seconds.

(28) For comparative purposes, the same protocol was also performed on locks with, on the one hand, composition A (1% of compound 1) and, on the other hand, composition B and composition E. A control lock treated only with water and with or without application of the straightening iron was also prepared.

(29) To evaluate the durable (persistent) nature of the cosmetic properties of the locks of hair, they were then washed with a shampoo according to the protocol described previously.

(30) The following results were obtained:

(31) TABLE-US-00004 Type of lock of hair Cosmetic properties after shampooing Sensitized hair treated with Coarse feel. Dull lock and difficult to comb. composition (X) (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized hair treated with Less coarse feel. composition (X) (control) + heat Difficult to comb, same level as Lock 1. Dull lock. (Lock 2) Sensitized hair treated with Slightly manageable lock, easier to comb than composition (A) + heat (Lock 3) Lock 1. The hair has body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, sparingly manageable and composition (B) + heat (Lock 4) soft, pleasant cosmetic feel. The hair has no body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, sparingly manageable and composition (E) + heat (Lock 11) soft, pleasant cosmetic feel. The hair has no body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock very easy to comb, manageable and very composition (C) + heat (Lock 7) soft feel. The hair has the most body. Markedly improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock very easy to comb, manageable and very composition (D) + heat (Lock 8) soft feel. The hair has the most body. Markedly improved sheen.

(32) The locks of hair were then classified as a function of their cosmetic properties (soft, pleasant cosmetic feel, manageability, ease of combing, sheen and hair body) after having been shampooed.

(33) TABLE-US-00005 After shampooing Lock 8 > Lock 7 > Lock 4 >> Lock 11 > Lock 3 > Lock 2 > Lock 1

(34) Locks 7 and 8 treated via the process according to the invention, and after having undergone a shampoo wash has better cosmetic properties in terms of soft feel, manageability and ease of combing, and the hair has more body and markedly improved sheen. These cosmetic properties thus have good persistence on shampooing.

(35) In addition, the colour of the treated hair is not modified.

(36) Application Process 3:

(37) Composition A (containing 1% of compound 1) was applied to locks of hair, for 15 minutes at 40 C.

(38) The locks were dried manually and then dried under a hood for 10 minutes at 60 C.

(39) The locks were combed before applying a straightening iron at a temperature of 180 C. by performing five continuous passes through the locks for 40 seconds. Composition B (containing 0.1% of N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine) was then applied for 15 minutes at 40 C., or composition E (containing 1% of dihydrosphingosine) was applied for 30 minutes at 40 C.

(40) The locks were dried manually and then dried under a hood for 10 minutes at 60 C.

(41) For the locks of hair treated with composition E, the locks were combed before applying a straightening iron at a temperature of 180 C. by performing five continuous passes through the locks for 40 seconds.

(42) For comparative purposes, the same protocol was also performed on locks with, on the one hand, composition A (1% of compound 1) and, on the other hand, composition B and composition E. A control lock treated only with water and with or without application of the straightening iron was also prepared.

(43) To evaluate the durable (persistent) nature of the cosmetic properties of the locks of hair, they were then washed with a shampoo according to the protocol described previously.

(44) The following results were obtained:

(45) TABLE-US-00006 Type of lock of hair Cosmetic properties after shampooing Sensitized hair treated with Coarse feel Dull lock and difficult to comb. composition (X) (control) (Lock 1) Sensitized hair treated with Less coarse feel. composition (X) (control) + heat Difficult to comb, same level as Lock 1. Dull lock. (Lock 2) Sensitized hair treated with Slightly manageable lock, easier to comb than composition (A) + heat (Lock 3) Lock 1. The hair has body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, sparingly manageable and composition (B) + heat (Lock 4) soft, pleasant cosmetic feel. The hair has no body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock easy to comb, sparingly manageable and composition (E) + heat (Lock 11) soft, pleasant cosmetic feel. The hair has no body. Improved sheen. Sensitized hair treated with Lock very easy to comb, manageable and very composition (A) + heat and then soft feel. The hair has the most body. Markedly with composition (B) + heat (Lock improved sheen. 9) Sensitized hair treated with Lock very easy to comb, manageable and very composition (A) + heat and then soft feel. The hair has the most body. Markedly with composition (E) (Lock 10) improved sheen.

(46) The locks of hair were then classified as a function of their cosmetic properties (soft, pleasant cosmetic feel, manageability, ease of combing, sheen and hair body) after having been shampooed.

(47) TABLE-US-00007 After shampooing Lock 9 Lock 10 > Lock 4 > Lock 11 > Lock 3 > Lock 2 > Lock 1

(48) Locks 9 and 10 treated via the process according to the invention, and after having undergone a shampoo wash has better cosmetic properties in terms of soft feel, manageability and ease of combing, and the hair has more body (good styling effect) and markedly improved sheen. These cosmetic properties thus have good persistence on shampooing.

(49) In addition, the colour of the treated hair is not modified.