Dye composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, an organic amine and a dye

Abstract

Dye composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, an organic amine and a dye The invention relates to a dye composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, one or more organic amines and one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes. The invention also relates to a dyeing process using said dye composition.

Claims

1. A dye composition comprising: 12-hydroxystearic acid, at least one organic amine, and at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes.

2. The dye composition according to claim 1, wherein the 12-hydroxystearic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

3. The dye composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic amine is chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, guanidine carbonate, or mixtures thereof.

4. The dye composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic amine is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

5. The dye composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one dye is chosen from at least one oxidation dye, and optionally at least one direct dye.

6. The dye composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one dye is chosen from para-phenylenediamines, para-aminophenols, pyrazole derivatives, meta-phenylenediamines. meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, or mixtures thereof.

7. The dye composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one dye is present in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

8. The dye composition according to claim 1, further comprising water in amount ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

9. The dye composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one alkaline agent other than organic amines, chosen from aqueous ammonia, sodium or potassium hydroxide, sodium or potassium carbonate, sodium or potassium bicarbonate, or mixtures thereof.

10. The dye composition according to claim 9, wherein the at least one alkaline agent other than organic amines is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

11. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising: mixing 12-hydroxystearic acid, at least one organic amine, and at least one dye, optionally heating the mixture for a period of time ranging from 1 to 10 minutes at a temperature ranging from 60 to 70 C., with or without stirring, and cooling the mixture to room temperature.

12. A ready-to-use composition resulting from the extemporaneous mixing a dye composition (A) comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, at least one organic amine, and at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, with an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

13. The ready-to-use composition according to claim 12, wherein the oxidizing composition (B) comprises the least one oxidizing agent in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (B).

14. The ready-to-use composition according to claim 13, wherein the at least one oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

15. A multi-compartment device for dyeing keratin fibers, comprising at least two compartments, wherein: the first compartment contains a dye composition (A) comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, at least one organic amine, and at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes; and the second compartment contains an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

16. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, the process comprising applying to the fibers a dye composition comprising: 12-hydroxystearic acid, at least one organic amine, and at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes.

17. A process for dyeing keratin fibers, the process comprising applying to the fibers a ready-to-use composition resulting from the extemporaneous mixing a dye composition (A) comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, at least one organic amine, and at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes or direct dyes, with an oxidizing composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1:

(1) The dye composition A according to the invention and a comparative composition B are prepared using the ingredients indicated in the following tables. The amounts indicated are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

(2) TABLE-US-00002 Composition A (invention) Ammonium hydroxide 2 Powdered sodium metabisulfite 0.7 Monoethanolamine 3 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 Guanidine carbonate 0.8 1--Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 0.013 dihydrochloride N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p- 0.052 phenylenediamine sulfate monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.563 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.075 1,4-Diaminobenzene 0.54 12-Hydroxystearic acid 7.5 Fragrance 0.5 Water qs 100 Glycerol 3 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.25

(3) TABLE-US-00003 Composition B (comparative) Ammonium hydroxide 2.22 Powdered sodium metabisulfite 0.71 Monoethanolamine 1.2 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.8 Guanidine carbonate 1--Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 0.013 dihydrochloride N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine 0.052 sulfate monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.563 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.075 1,4-Diaminobenzene 0.54 Fragrance 0.95 Water qs 100 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.25 (Untreated anatase) titanium oxide coated 0.15 with polydimethylsiloxane (98/2) Glycol distearate 2 Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50 C16/C18) 11.5 Hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated 1.2 with dimethylsilane Poly[(dimethylimino)-1,3- 2.4 propanediyl(dimethylimino)-1,6-hexanediyl dichloride] Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylic 1.215 acid (80/20) copolymer as an aqueous solution Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in an ethyl 0.4 acetate/cyclohexane mixture Propylene glycol 10 Lauric acid 3 Oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (12 units of 7 ethylene oxide (EO)) Oxyethylenated decyl alcohol (3 EO) 10 Oxyethylenated oleocetyl alcohol (30 EO) 4

(4) Compositions C and D according to the invention were also prepared using the ingredients below.

(5) TABLE-US-00004 Composition C (invention) D (invention) Ammonium hydroxide 2 2 Powdered sodium metabisulfite 0.7 0.7 Monoethanolamine 3 3 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 0.2 Guanidine carbonate 0.8 1--Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 0.013 0.013 dihydrochloride N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p- 0.052 0.052 phenylenediamine sulfate monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.563 0.563 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.075 0.075 1,4-Diaminobenzene 0.54 0.54 12-Hydroxystearic acid 15 15 Fragrance 0.5 0.5 Water qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 3 3 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25

(6) An oxidizing composition was prepared using the ingredients below.

(7) TABLE-US-00005 Oxidizing composition Amount Glycerol 0.5 (50% linear 70/30 C13/C15)alkyl ether 0.85 carboxylic acid monoethanolamide (2 EO) Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.02 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Sodium stannate 0.04 Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt 0.06 Cetylstearyl alcohol/oxyethylenated cetylstearyl 2.85 alcohol mixture (30 EO) Water qs 100
Protocol:

(8) Composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition B are mixed with one and a half times their weight of oxidizing composition (6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide).

(9) Each mixture obtained is applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% grey hairs (NG), at a rate of 15 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.

(10) After a leave-on time of 30 minutes at 27 C., the hair is rinsed with water, washed with a standard shampoo and then dried.

(11) Rinseability Test:

(12) For each of the compositions A and B, ten locks were dyed according to the protocol described above.

(13) For each of the compositions A and B, ten experts evaluated the rinseability according to the protocol detailed below, each expert evaluating the rinseability of a lock.

(14) The lock is placed a first time vertically under a tap of water at a temperature of 35 C., with a flow rate of 2 litres/min, for 5 seconds. This corresponds to a first passage. The rinseability evaluation is then performed according to the grading defined below, by placing the lock on absorbent paper.

(15) The lock is placed a second time vertically under a tap of water at 35 C., with a flow rate of 2 litres/min, for 5 seconds, followed by wringing lightly between two triangular magnets out of the stream of water. This corresponds to a second passage. The rinseability evaluation is again performed by placing the lock on absorbent paper.

(16) The latter operation is repeated twice to have a total of four passages, with a rinseability evaluation at each passage. The rinseability is given a score after each passage as follows:

(17) 0: a lot of composition remains on the lock

(18) 1: little composition remains on the lock

(19) 2: no composition remains on the lock, the lock needs to be opened to see composition on the interior

(20) 3: no composition remains when the lock is opened, it needs to be wrung vigorously to make composition come out

(21) 4: the lock is rinsed.

(22) The scores obtained on each passage are then added together so as to obtain a final score: the higher the final score, the better the rinseability.

(23) The results expressed as averages of the 10 final scores for each of the compositions A and B are as follows.

(24) TABLE-US-00006 Average score after four passages Composition A (invention) 3.7 Composition B (comparative) 1.8

(25) Composition A according to the invention has markedly better rinseability than the comparative composition B representing a commercially available similar formulation.

(26) Thus, composition A according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the rinsing time, and thus to reduce the amount of water required for optimum rinsing, relative to the comparative composition B.

(27) Colorimetric Results:

(28) The colouring of the locks treated with each of the compositions A and B according to the protocol described previously is evaluated by means of a Minolta 2600D spectrocolorimeter (D65 illuminant, angle 10, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

(29) In this system, L* represents the lightness: the lower the value of L*, the more intense and powerful the colouring obtained.

(30) The component a* represents the red/green axis and the component b* represents the yellow/blue axis.

(31) TABLE-US-00007 Composition A Composition B (invention) (comparative) L* 21.1 23.2

(32) Composition A according to the invention has a lower L* value than the comparative composition B, and thus more intense, more powerful colouring than that of the comparative composition.

(33) Measurement of the Viscosity of the Compositions:

(34) Flow curves are produced using an MCR 502 rotary rheometer from Anton Paar, equipped with a Peltier air conditioning module to adjust the temperature to 25.0 C. A cone/plate geometry with a diameter of 50 mm/1 (5 m sanded steel) was used, along with an anti-evaporation device so as to prevent evaporation during the measurement. The measurement protocol is as follows:

(35) The flow curve was established using imposed shear rates at 1; 10; 100 and 1000 s.sup.1 over respective durations of 10; 5; 2 and 0.5 min. The closer the shear-thinning slope is to 1, the greater the shear thinning and thus the easier the dye compositions are to apply and to spread on the hair.

(36) TABLE-US-00008 Composition B Formulation Composition A (invention) (comparative) Shear-thinning slope 0.75 0.05 0.60 0.05

(37) Composition A according to the invention has a shear-thinning slope closer to 1 than comparative composition B. Thus, the composition of the invention is easier to use, i.e. easier to apply and to spread on the hair.

(38) Stability Test at 60 C.

(39) Compositions A and B are stored in an oven at 60 C. for 5 hours. After returning to room temperature, the macroscopic appearance is compared by visual observation and the microscopic appearance by light microscopy, between the compositions before storage at 60 C. and after storage.

(40) Composition A according to the invention conserves the same macroscopic appearance before and after storage at 60 C., and the structure observed by light microscopy is not modified, whereas for comparative composition B, phase separation is observed after storage at 60 C. and the structures under light microscopy are modified. Composition A according to the invention is thus stable after storage at 60 C. and returning to room temperature, unlike the comparative composition B.

Example 2:

(41) The dye composition A according to the invention and a comparative composition E are prepared using the ingredients indicated in the following table. The amounts indicated are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the dye composition.

(42) TABLE-US-00009 Composition A (invention) E (comparative) Ammonium hydroxide 2 2 Powdered sodium metabisulfite 0.7 0.7 Monoethanolamine 3 3 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2 0.2 Guanidine carbonate 0.8 0.8 1--Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4- 0.013 0.013 diaminobenzene dihydrochloride N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p- 0.052 0.052 phenylenediamine sulfate monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.563 0.563 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.075 0.075 1,4-Diaminobenzene 0.54 0.54 12-Hydroxystearic acid 7.5 Fragrance 0.5 0.5 Water qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 3 3 Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25

(43) An oxidizing composition was prepared using the ingredients below (amounts indicated are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the dye composition).

(44) TABLE-US-00010 Oxidizing composition Amount Glycerol 0.5 (50% linear 70/30 C13/C15) alkyl ether carboxylic acid 0.85 monoethanolamide (2 EO) Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.02 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Sodium stannate 0.04 Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt 0.06 Cetylstearyl alcohol/oxyethylenated cetylstearyl 2.85 alcohol mixture (30 EO) Water qs 100

(45) Composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition E are mixed with one and a half times their weight of the oxidizing composition containing 6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide.

(46) Measurement of the Viscosity of the Compositions:

(47) Flow curves are produced using an MCR 502 rotary rheometer from Anton Paar, equipped with a Peltier air conditioning module to adjust the temperature to 25.0 C. A cone/plate geometry with a diameter of 50 mm/1 (5 m sanded steel) was used, along with an anti-evaporation device so as to prevent evaporation during the measurement. The measurement protocol is as follows:

(48) The flow curve was established using imposed shear rates {dot over ()} at 1; 10; 100 and 1000 s.sup.1 over respective periods of 10; 5; 2 and 0.5 min.

(49) The closer the shear-thinning slope is to 1, the higher the shear-thinning and thus the easier the dye compositions are to apply and to spread on the hair.

(50) The lower the viscosity at a given shear rate, the more fluid the dye compositions and the greater the risk of running on the head.

(51) The results are detailed in the table below:

(52) TABLE-US-00011 Composition A Composition E Formulation (invention) (comparative) Shear-thinning slope 0.74 0.05 0.25 0.05 Viscosity at 10 s.sup.1 (Pa .Math. s) 1.09 0.0018

(53) Composition A according to the invention has a shear-thinning slope closer to 1 than comparative composition E. Thus, the composition of the invention is easier to use, i.e. easier to apply and to spread on the hair.

(54) Furthermore, composition A according to the invention has a viscosity value at a shear rate of 10 s.sup.1 which is 600 times higher than that of comparative composition E at the same shear rate. Thus, the composition of the invention has less risk of running on the head.