HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC ACRYLIC COPOLYMER

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, especially the hair, comprising the following steps: application to the keratin fibres of a composition comprising one or more cationic acrylic copolymers comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group, and b) alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomer, andapplication of heat to the keratin fibres using a heating tool, the application of heat possibly taking place before, during or after the application of the composition, preferably during or after.

Claims

1.-13. (canceled)

14. A process for treating keratin fibres, the process comprising: applying to the keratin fibres a composition comprising at least one cationic acrylic copolymer comprising at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group, and b) alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomer, and applying heat to the keratin fibres using a heating tool, wherein applying heat occurs before, during, or after applying the composition.

15. The process according to claim 14, wherein the at least one cationic acrylic copolymer further comprises c) at least a third unit obtained from a polymerizable ethylenic monomer having the following formula: ##STR00024## wherein: R and R, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 or C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical; and x ranges from 1 to 10.

16. The process according to claim 14, wherein the at least one cationic acrylic copolymer comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group, having the following formulae: ##STR00025## wherein: R.sub.3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH.sub.3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R.sub.4, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6, which may be identical or different, each represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, methyl, or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, a methosulfate anion, a halide, chloride, or bromide; b) C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomer.

17. The process according to claim 14, wherein the cationic acrylic copolymer comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one cationic group, having the following formulae: ##STR00026## wherein: R.sub.3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH.sub.3 group; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R.sub.4, R.sub.5 and R.sub.6, which may be identical or different, each represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; R.sub.1 and R.sub.2, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, methyl, or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, a methosulfate anion, a halide, chloride, or bromide; b) C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate monomer; and c) polymerizable ethylenic monomer having following formula ##STR00027## wherein: R and R, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.10 or C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical; x ranges from 1 to 10.

18. The process according to claim 14, wherein the at least one cationic acrylic copolymer comprises at least the units obtained from the following monomers: a) methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium salt, b) butyl methacrylate, and c) ethoxy ethyl methacrylate.

19. The process according to claim 14, wherein the total amount of the at least one cationic acrylic copolymer ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. The process according to claim 14, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additive chosen from a thickening polymer, a surfactant, a functionalized silicone, a fatty substance, or a mixture thereof.

21. The process according to claim 14, wherein heat is applied to the fibres at between 40 C. and 250 C.

22. The process according to claim 14, wherein heat is applied to the fibres for a time of between 2 seconds and 1 hour.

23. The process according to claim 14 wherein the heating tool is chosen from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a hood, a hairdryer, an infrared heating system, heating curlers, or a combination thereof.

24. The process according to claim 14, wherein the bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratin fibres is between 0.05 and 10.

25. The process according to claim 14, wherein applying the heat occurs after applying the composition.

26. The process according to claim 14, wherein applying the composition and applying heat are implemented at least twice.

Description

EXAMPLES

I. Example 1

[0407] 1. Preparation of the Compositions

[0408] Compositions A and B according to the invention and comparative composition C were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below as weight percentages.

TABLE-US-00001 A (inv) B (inv) C (comp) Copolymer 1 (containing 30% active 16.7 16.7 material in ethanol) (1) Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride 1 (79% AM, 18% isopropanol) (2) Stearyl alcohol 1.5 PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Ethanol qs 100% qs 100% Water qs 100% (1) Plascize L-514 (2) Genamine KPMD from Clariant

[0409] 2. Application Protocol

[0410] The application protocols were as follows:

TABLE-US-00002 Protocol according to the invention Comparative protocol Shampooing Shampooing Application of the composition Application of the composition onto wet natural straight hair onto wet natural straight hair Predrying with a hairdryer Natural drying Blow-drying with a hairdryer

[0411] 3. Evaluation and Results

[0412] The evaluation protocol after drying is:

[0413] Evaluation of the impact on the shape, the cosmetic criteria (feel) and the appearance (macroscopic, TEM visualization)

[0414] The persistence evaluation protocol is as follows: Performing several cycles:

[0415] Wetting of the hair

[0416] Shampooing

[0417] Rinsing

[0418] Drying with a hairdryer

[0419] Evaluation of the impact on the shape, the cosmetic criteria (feel) and the appearance (macroscopic, TEM visualization)

[0420] 3.1 Macroscopic Aspects

[0421] Observations by scanning electron microscope (SEM) demonstrate the surface state of treated hair, on the day of application and after shampoo washes, and reveal the deposit of cosmetic product and its persistence.

[0422] With composition A according to the invention and by following the protocol according to the invention, homogeneous, uniform and covering coating of the fibre was observed. This coating is persistent for up to 10 shampoo washes.

[0423] With composition A according to the invention and by following the comparative protocol, non-homogeneous, non-uniform coating in the form of aggregates was observed. Furthermore, the deposit is only very sparingly persistent on the fibre after one shampoo wash and has completely disappeared after 10 shampoo washes.

[0424] Thus, heat allows better distribution and better adhesion of the polymer to the fibre, which allows persistence of the effects with respect to shampooing.

[0425] With comparative composition C and by following the protocol according to the invention, no coating is formed.

[0426] 3.2 Cosmetic Aspects

[0427] With composition A according to the invention and by following the protocol according to the invention, the coating gives the head of hair a mass, body and styling effect and also reinforcement at TO and after shampooing. The shaping is facilitated. The split ends are rewelded together, for up to at least 10 shampoo washes.

[0428] With composition A according to the invention and by following the comparative protocol, the lock has a non-uniform coated feel. There is no perceptible shaping or care effect after one shampoo wash/blow-drying cycle.

[0429] With comparative composition C and by following the protocol according to the invention, the feel was not modified.

II. Example 2

[0430] 1. Preparation of the Compositions

[0431] Composition D according to the invention and comparative composition E were prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts are indicated in weight percentage of active material.

TABLE-US-00003 D (inv) E (comp) Copolymer 1 (% am) (1) 2 Poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium 2 chloride) (% am) (2) Ethanol/Water (50/50) (% by weight) qs 100% qs 100% (1) Plascize L-514 (2) Polyquatemium-37

[0432] 2. Application Protocol

[0433] Compositions D and E are applied on wet natural locks of hair, which have been beforehand washed with a standard shampoo. 0.15 g of composition per gram of locks is applied. Hair has then been predried with a hairdryer, and blowdried with a hairdryer.

[0434] 3. Evaluation and Results

[0435] Performances in terms of mass effect have been evaluated on dried hair by five experts, on a scale from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very good):

TABLE-US-00004 Scale Evaluation 0 Very bad 0.5 Very bad/Bad 1 Bad 1.5 Fairly bad/Bad 2 Fairly bad 2.5 Average 3 Fairly good 3.5 Good/Fairly good 4 Good 4.5 Very good/Good 5 Very good

[0436] The mass effect evaluation is tactile: the expert grabs the hair in his hand and evaluates, from the root to the tip, the amount of hair felt in his fingers.

[0437] In order to evaluate the mass effect persistence after one shampoo, locks of hair are washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed and then blowdried with a hairdryer.

[0438] Results are indicated in the table below:

TABLE-US-00005 D (invention) E (comparative) After applying Expert 1 4 3 Expert 2 3 1 Expert 3 4 2 Expert 4 3.5 2.5 Expert 5 4 3 Mean 3.7 2.3 Standard deviation 0.4 0.8 After 1 shampoo Expert 1 4 2 Expert 2 3 1 Expert 3 3.5 2 Expert 4 4 3 Expert 5 4 2 Mean 3.7 2 Standard deviation 0.4 0.7

[0439] Locks of hair, which has been treated by composition D according to the invention, have a better mass effect than locks of hair which have been treated by composition E.

[0440] These results are significant in relation to the standard deviations.

[0441] As a consequence, the mass effect, and its persistence, have been improved in comparison with the prior art.

III. Example 3

[0442] 1. Preparation of the Compositions

[0443] Compositions F and G according to the invention, and comparative compositions H and I were prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts are indicated in weight percentage of active material.

TABLE-US-00006 F (inv) G (inv) H (comp) I (comp) Copolymer 1 (% am) (1) 1 5 PEG-40/PPG-8 0.4 2 0.4 2 Methylaminopropyl/ hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer at 30% in a glycerin/dipropylene glycol/water mixture (% am) (2) Ethanol/Water (50/50) qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% (% by weight) (1) Plascize L-514 (2) Silsoft A+ from Momentive

[0444] 2. Application Protocol

[0445] The application protocol was as follows: [0446] Application of the compositions onto wet natural hair [0447] Predrying with a hairdryer [0448] Applying of hair iron [0449] Shampooing

[0450] The protocol using compositions F and H has been implemented five times whereas the protocol using compositions G and I has been implemented once. Therefore, the same amounts of active material, i.e. copolymer 1 and component (2) for compositions F and G, and component (2) for compositions H and I, are present on hair.

[0451] 3. Results

[0452] The results in terms of frizz control are observed. The result linked to protocol, implemented five times, using composition F is observed on picture 2A whereas the result linked to protocol, implemented once, using composition G is observed on picture 2B. The result linked to protocol, implemented five times, using composition H is observed on picture 1A whereas the result linked to protocol, implemented once, using composition I is observed on picture 1B.

[0453] Pictures 2A and 2B clearly show that a better result is observed than the one shown respectively by Picture 1A and Picture 1B. Indeed, the presence of the specific copolymer, comprised in the composition according to the invention, leads to a better individualization effect of the treated lock.

[0454] Picture 2A clearly shows that a better result is observed than the one shown by Picture 2B. Indeed, the frizz control is also improved for hair shown on Picture 2A. Thus, the repeated process of applying to the keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention and then applying of heat to the keratin fibres gives the treated fibre an ever better coating of the fibre than said process implemented once.