COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE OIL AND AT LEAST ONE POLYESTER
20180008526 · 2018-01-11
Inventors
Cpc classification
International classification
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
This invention relates to a composition, in particular for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, comprising: at least one oil, at least one wax, and at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diol, according to a content strictly less than 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
Claims
1. A composition comprising: at least one oil, at least one wax, and at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers and diol, according to a content strictly less than 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acids are chosen from among mono or polyunsaturated fatty acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is obtained by condensing an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions.
4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the diol is a saturated linear diol, preferably a butanediol.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyester is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and of 1,4-butanediol.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content by weight of polyester is less than or equal to 10% with respect to the total weight of said composition.
7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax or waxes comprise(s) one or several polar and/or non-polar wax(es).
8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a content in wax(es) ranging from 12% to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition according to claim 1 comprising at least one volatile oil and/or at least one additional non-volatile oil, and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to claim 9, comprising a total content in volatile oil(s) ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 10% of water by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.
12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer.
13. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent and at least one lipophilic polyamide polycondensate and mixtures thereof.
14. A method for coating keratin fibers comprising a step of applying on said keratin fibers of a composition according to claim 1.
15. The method Use according to claim 14 wherein said keratin fibers are eyelashes and wherein said method gives rise to a volume effect on the eyelashes.
16. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the polyester is obtained by condensing an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions.
17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content by weight of polyester is less than or equal to 7% with respect to the total weight of said composition.
18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content by weight of polyester is less than or equal to 5% with respect to the total weight of said composition.
19. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the content by weight of polyester is less than or equal to 10% with respect to the total weight of said composition.
20. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the content by weight of polyester is less than or equal to 10% with respect to the total weight of said composition.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0288] A composition according to the invention with a polyester such as defined hereinabove as well as a comparative composition without this polyester were prepared and tested for their volume effect, as well as their properties for application, stability and makeup.
[0289] Preparation Protocol for Said Compositions
[0290] The compositions were prepared according to a method with the rotor stator.
[0291] In a first step, a bentone gel was prepared according to the following protocol: Isododecane was weighed in a beaker then placed in the Rayneri stirrer with dispersing (speed=400 to 600 rpm according to the quantity of solvent) at ambient temperature. Then, the modified hectorite was added by sprinkling into the isododecane, under stirring, still at ambient temperature.
[0292] Then, the propylene carbonate was added and the whole was allowed to stand for about 45 minutes at ambient temperature.
[0293] Then, the waxy mixture was prepared by melting the waxes in a double-shell skillet by connecting with the oil bath until melting of the waxes (bath setting 120° C.). The whole was placed under Rayneri stirring with the rotor stator as soon as the waxes were melted in order to homogenize.
[0294] The pigments were then added to the waxy mixture, still under stirring with the rotor stator, at about 1500-1700 rpm. The oil bath setting was lowered in order to obtain 95° C. in the skillet and the whole was allowed to stand for 20 to 30 minutes.
[0295] The bentone gel (prepared as indicated hereinabove) was added, under rotor stator stirring, and the stirring was increased to 2000 rpm. The temperature of the mixture dropped and was left until homogenization of the temperature at 85° C.
[0296] The setting of the oil bath was then lowered to 25° C. and the rotor stator stirring was removed and switching to “step by step” blade with the speed reducing adapter (Rayneri setting 400 rpm).
[0297] Starting at 40° C., the additives (micro dispersion of waxes, alcohol, active materials, etc.), were added under Rayneri by switching to stirring with dispersing in order to correctly homogenize (Rayneri speed 700 to 1000 rpm). Finally, the whole was again placed under “step by step” blade in order to continue cooling to 25° C.
[0298] Cosmetic compositions with and without polyester according to the invention were prepared according to the tables hereinbelow.
[0299] Example 1 according to the invention comprises a polyester, while the comparative example 2 does not comprise polyester according to the invention.
TABLE-US-00001 Trade name Example 1 Example 2 Phase Ingredients (supplier) (Invention) (comparative) A1 Rice bran wax NC 1720 (CERA 2.80 2.80 RICA NODA) Vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer ANTARON V 220F 2.00 2.00 OR GANEX V 220F (ISP ASHLAND) Carnauba wax CARNAUBA WAX 4.70 4.70 #1 FLAKES N.F. SP 63 (STRAHL & PITSCH) Hydrogenated polyester based on fatty acids VISCOPLAST 5.00 — and butanediol (MW: 1 500)(DILINOLEIC 14436 H ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER) (BIOSYNTHIS) Paraffin waxes and SASOLWAX 5603 2.80 2.80 stabilized hydrocarbon waxes (SASOL) Candellila wax NC 1630 (CERA 0.10 0.10 RICA NODA) C18-C38 fatty alcohol stearate hydroxystearoyl KESTERWAX K82P 1.00 1.00 (SYNTHETIC BEESWAX) (KOSTER KEUNEN) White beeswax WHITE BEESWAX 7.30 7.30 SP 453P (STRAHL & PITSCH) Vinyl acetate/alkyl acetate copolymer (65/35) MEXOMERE PQ 3.30 3.30 (CHIMEX) Vinyl polylaurate MEXOMERE PP 2.20 2.20 (CHIMEX) Diacide condensate in C36 hydrogenated/ OLEOCRAFT LP- 1.00 1.00 diamine ethylene, esterified by stabilized stearylic 10-PA-(MV) alcohol (ANOX 20) (CRODA) (ETHYLENEDIAMINE/STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER) A2 Talc LUZENAC 1.00 1.00 PHARMA M (IMERYS) B Isododecane ISODODECANE qsp 100 qsp 100 (INEOS) Black iron oxide SUNPURO BLACK 4.20 4.20 IRON OXIDE C33- 7001 (SUN) C Modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite BENTONE 38 VCG 5.80 5.80 (ELEMENTIS) D Propylene carbonate ARCONATE 1.90 1.90 PROPYLENE CARBONATE (LYONDELL) E Microdispersion of carnauba wax in water MEXORYL SAP 7.00 7.00 (CHIMEX) F preservative qs qs
[0300] Makeup Tests
[0301] The compositions 1 (invention) and 2 (comparative) were then tested for their makeup properties.
[0302] In particular, it was observed that the composition according to the invention is significantly more charging and that the progression of the deposit is better compared to the comparative composition without polyester.
[0303] As such, the adding of the polyester according to the invention makes it possible to improve the volume effect on the eyelashes compared to a composition without polyester.
[0304] Moreover, additional tests were carried out with regards to the stability to friction, stability to water and stability to squalene, as well as the removal of the is mascara.
[0305] It was observed that the composition according to the invention has characteristics similar to a conventional waterproof mascara. In particular, the composition of the invention has stability properties that are identical to those of a conventional waterproof mascara and, likewise, the composition of the invention has makeup removal properties that are identical to those of a conventional waterproof mascara.