LOW VISCOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION USING A NATURAL EMULSIFYING AGENT

Abstract

The present invention relates to a low-viscosity cosmetic composition and methods using a natural emulsifying agent. More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition using a naturally derived saccharide-based surfactant in place of a chemical surfactant and realizing a low-viscosity formulation to offer safety to the skin, feel good on the skin with fast absorption, give stability to the formulation and add luster to the skin in an effective manner.

Claims

1. A method for enhancing luster of skin and whitening skin of a subject, comprising applying a cosmetic composition containing a mixture of a first saccharide-based surfactant having a first hydrophilic portion and a second saccharide-based surfactant having a second hydrophilic portion, the first hydrophilic portion of the first saccharide-based surfactant being more hydrophilic than the second hydrophilic portion of the second saccharide-based surfactant; a natural oil-soluble ingredient; and at least one ingredient selected from green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract, and niacinamide to the skin of the subject.

2. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is an oil-in-water type composition.

3. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition has a viscosity of 1,000 cps to 4,000 cps.

4. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the first saccharide-based surfactant includes at least one selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate and inulin lauryl carbamate.

5. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the second saccharide-based surfactant includes at least one selected from the group consisting of sucrose fatty acid ester, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and C12-20 alkylglucoside.

6. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the first saccharide-based surfactant to the second saccharide-based surfactant is 0.4 to 2.5

7. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition contains the mixture of the first saccharide-based surfactant and the second saccharide-based surfactant in an amount of 0.20 wt. % to 1.50 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition.

8. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the natural oil-soluble ingredient comprises: a solid oil-soluble ingredient including a surfactant having a melting temperature of 30° C. or above and being in the solid state at the room temperature, said solid oil-soluble ingredient comprising a fat, a wax, a higher alcohol, a higher fatty acid, or a hydrocarbon; or a liquid oil-soluble ingredient including an oil, an ester, or a hydrocarbon.

9. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition contains the natural oil-soluble ingredient in an amount of 5 wt. % to 15 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition.

10. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises all of the green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract and niacinamide.

11. The method as claimed in claim 10, wherein the composition contains the green tea polysaccharide and the mushroom-derived yeast extract each at an amount of 0.01 wt. % to 5.0 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition.

12. The method as claimed in claim 10, wherein the composition contains the niacinamide at an amount of 2 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Description

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0012] The present invention provides a low-viscosity cosmetic composition containing a naturally derived surfactant and a natural oil-soluble ingredient, and more particularly an oil-in-water type cosmetic composition.

[0013] The cosmetic composition of the present invention is a low-viscosity oil-in-water type emulsion using a naturally derived saccharide-based surfactant instead of a synthetic surfactant and a natural oil-soluble ingredient to offer a great skin safety and secure improved formulation stability. Also, the cosmetic composition can enhance the luster of the skin and provide a great whitening effect.

[0014] The oil-in-water type cosmetic composition of the present invention has a low viscosity of 1,000 to 4,000 cps. The viscosity of the cosmetic composition less than 1,000 cps provides poor stability, while the viscosity of the cosmetic composition greater than 4,000 cps undesirably leads to difficulty of securing a thin constancy of the cosmetic composition.

[0015] In order to use a naturally derived surfactant with enhanced emulsifying capacity, the present invention employs a mixture of a natural saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion and a natural saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion. A combination of the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion and the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion at a predetermined ratio can make oil particles packed with the interfacial membrane in an effective manner to stabilize the oil-in-water formulation. In this regard, the formulation stability can be achieved because the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion compactly fills in the gap between the interfacial membranes consisting of the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively high hydrophilic portion.

[0016] In the present invention, among the naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants, the surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion may include at least one selected from the group consisting of sucrose fatty acid ester, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, C12-20 alkylglucoside, etc., of which the hydrophilic portion consists of a monosaccharide or a disaccharide such as sucrose, glucoside of the like and thus has a relatively small volume. Further, the surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion may include at least one selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, inulin lauryl carbamate, etc., of which the hydrophilic portion consists of a polymer of monosaccharide or polysaccharide such as inulin or the like and thus has a relatively large volume. Most preferably, the surfactant may be a mixture of C12-20 alkylglucoside and inulin lauryl carbamate.

[0017] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the mixture of naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants at an amount of 0.20 wt. % to 1.50 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition. The content of the mixture of naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants less than 0.20 wt. % leads to low emulsion stability to induce the phase separation, while the content of the mixture of naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants greater than 1.50 wt. % undesirably causes the viscosity of the composition greater than 4,000 cps. Supposing that the content of the natural saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion is 1, the weight ratio of the natural saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion to the natural saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion is preferably in the range of 0.4 to 2.5. If the mixing ratio is out of the above-defined range, the emulsion stability can be so low to cause the phase separation.

[0018] The naturally derived oil-soluble ingredient as used in the present invention may include at least one selected from solid ingredients, including a surfactant having a melting temperature of 30° C. or above and being in the solid state at the room temperature, fat, wax, higher alcohol, higher fatty acid, and hydrocarbon; or liquid ingredients, including oil, ester, hydrocarbon.

[0019] More specifically, the solid ingredients may include, for example, surfactants, such as sucrose fatty acid ester, cetearyl glucoside, inulin lauryl carbamate, C12-20 alkylglucoside, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, lauryl glucoside, hydrogenated lecithin, lecithin, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, etc.; fats, such as Shea butter, mango seed butter, cacao seed butter, etc.; waxes, such as myristyl myristate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, jojoba, sunflower seed, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, bee wax, etc.; higher alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, etc.; higher fatty acids, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, etc.; and hydrocarbons, such as ceresin, etc. The liquid ingredients may include, for example, oils, such as meadowfoam seed oil, sunflower seed oil, macadamia seed oil, green tea seed oil, coconut oil, olive oil, camellia oil, etc.; esters, such as phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, isostearyl isostearate, methylheptyl isostearate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, etc.; ethers, such as dicaprylyl ether, etc.; and hydrocarbons, such as squalane, etc.

[0020] The cosmetic composition of the present invention contains the oil-soluble ingredient in an amount of 5 wt. % to 15 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition. The term “the content of the oil-soluble ingredient” as used herein means the total weight of the oil-soluble component excluding the surfactant which is an emulsifying agent. The content of the oil-soluble ingredient less than 5 wt. % leads to failure to provide the effect as an emulsion type cosmetic, while the content of the oil-soluble ingredient greater than 15 wt. % undesirably ends up having difficulty of securing the formulation stability.

[0021] The present invention may further use an additional whitening ingredient in order to enhance the effect of lustering the skin and provide a whitening effect. In the present invention, the whitening ingredient may further include at least one selected from the group consisting of, particularly, green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract, and niacinamide. These whitening ingredients are effective to reduce melanin pigments and create a synergy in regards to the whitening efficacy, improving the whitening effect.

[0022] Among the whitening ingredients used in the present invention, the green tea polysaccharide which is isolated from green tea powder through hot-water extraction, ultrafiltration, and ethanol precipitation inhibits the production of melanin and the expression of MMP-1 and increases the moisturizing ability of the skin to provide a good whitening effect. Also, the mushroom-derived yeast extract which is separated from truffles by enzyme hydrolysis and heat treatment intensifies the activities of LC3 protein and lysosome participating in the autophagy process in the epidermal keratinocytes to eliminate waste matters from the skin, thus making the skin light and clear. Finally, niacinamide which is a vitamin B3 component inhibits the transfer of melanin from the cells that produce melanin to the surface of the skin to help reduce pigmentation and improve the skin tone. In particular, these ingredients, such as green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract, and niacinamide, as used in the present invention function on the respective steps of the skin whitening process to provide a synergy, so they are all desirably used in combination.

[0023] Among the skin whitening ingredients, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain green tea polysaccharide and mushroom-derived yeast extract in an amount of 0.01 wt. % to 5.0 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the composition. The content of green tea polysaccharide and mushroom-derived yeast extract less than 0.01 wt. % is too insignificant to provide the skin whitening effect, while the content of green tea polysaccharide and mushroom-derived yeast extract greater than 5.0 wt. % undesirably causes skin irritation. On the other hand, the content of niacinamide may be 2 wt. %, which is usually accepted as the effective amount.

[0024] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain an appropriate amount of auxiliary ingredients typically used in the preparation of oil-in-water type cosmetics, such as colors, fragrances, preservatives, thickening agents, and so forth. Preferably, the content of the auxiliary ingredients may be 0 to 20 wt. % with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0025] In consideration of the low-viscosity characteristic, if not specifically limited in the formulation, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be formulated into a wide variety of applications, including fundamental skin cosmetic compositions, such as skin toner, nutrient toner, gel, lotion, etc.; hair-care cosmetic compositions, such as hair tonic, hair essence, hair restorer such as hair treatment, etc.; and other drugs and quasi-drugs.

[0026] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the examples and experimental examples, which are given only for better understanding of the present invention. So it should be understood that modifications, substitutions, or additions as known in the related art could be made thereto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

REFERENCE EXAMPLE

PREPARATION OF EXAMPLES AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES

[0027] The oil-in-water type emulsions of Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 are prepared in the manner as described in the following preparation method according to the composition as given in Tables 1 and 2.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Example No Ingredient 1 2 3 4 5 1 C14-22 alcohol * C12-20 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 alkylglucoside 2 Vegetable squalane 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3 Dicaprylyl carbonate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4 Dicaprylyl ether 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 5 Caprylic/capric 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 triglyceride 6 Cetearyl alcohol * 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 glyceryl stearate * stearic acid * hydrogenated lecithin* polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate 7 Butyrospermum parkii 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 (shea butter) extract (shea butter (organic)) 8 Stearyl glycyrrhetinate 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 9 Purified water To To To To To 100 100 100 100 100 10 Disodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 11 Niacinamide, 0.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 nicotiamide (BP) 12 Inulin lauryl carbamate 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 13 Xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 14 Dipropylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 15 Tromethamine 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 16 Phenoxyethanol 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 17 Ethylhexyl glycerin 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 18 Butylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 19 Hydroxyethyl 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer 20 Purified water 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 21 Carbomer 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 22 Broussonetia kazinoki 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 root extract * propanediol * ginko biloba leaf extract * butylene glycol * glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract 23 Purified water * butylene 0.00 0.00 1.00 0.00 0.50 glycol * camellia sinensis leaf extract * caprylyl glycol * 1,2-hexanediol 24 Butylene glycol * 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 silybum marianum fruit extract 25 Mushroom-derived yeast 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.00 0.50 extract 26 Butylene glycol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 27 Resveratrol (10%) 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 (methylmethacrylate/ acrylonitrile copolymer/resveratrol) 28 Compound fragrance 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Comparative Example No Ingredient 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 C14-22 alcohol * C12-20 0.10 0.50 0.15 1.15 0.50 0.50 alkyl glycoside 2 Vegetable squalane 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 1.00 4.00 3 Dicapryryl carbonate 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 1.00 5.00 4 Dicaprylyl ether 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 5 Caprylic/capric 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 3.00 triglyceride 6 Cetearyl alcohol * 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 1.00 glyceryl stearate * stearic acid * hydrogenated lecithin* polyglyceryl-3-methyl glucose distearate 7 Butyrospermum parkii 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 1.00 (shea butter) extract (shea butter (organic)) 8 Stearyl glycyrrhetinate 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 9 Purified water To To To To To To 100 100 100 100 100 100 10 Disodium EDTA 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 11 Niacinamide, 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 nicotiamide (BP) 12 Inulin lauryl carbamate 0.08 0.00 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 13 Xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 14 Dipropylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 15 Tromethamine 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 16 Phenoxyethanol 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 17 Ethylhexyl glycerin 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 18 Butylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 19 Hydroxyethyl 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer 20 Purified water 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 21 Carbomer 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 22 Broussonetia kazinoki 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 root extract * propanediol * ginko biloba leaf extract * butylene glycol * glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract 23 Purified water * butylene 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 glycol * camellia sinensis leaf extract * caprylyl glycol * 1,2-hexanediol 24 Butylene glycol * 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 silybum marianum fruit extract 25 Mushroom-derived yeast 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 extract 26 Butylene glycol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 27 Resveratrol (10%) 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 (methylmethacrylate/ acrylonitrile copolymer/resveratrol) 28 Compound fragrance 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15

[0028] <Preparation Method>

[0029] (1) The ingredients 9 to 17 of Table 1 are mixed together and dissolved at 70° C. to prepare a water phase.

[0030] (2) In a separate container, the ingredients 1 to 8 of Table 1 are dissolved at 70° C. to prepare an oil phase.

[0031] (3) The oil phase of the step (2) is added to the water phase of the step (1), and the mixture is blended with a homo-mixer under agitation.

[0032] (4) The ingredients 18 and 19 and the ingredients 20 and 21 are added to the mixture of the step (3), and the resultant mixture is stirred with a homo-mixture and then cooled down to 50° C.

[0033] (5) The ingredients 22 to 28 are added to the mixture of the step (4), and the resultant mixture is stirred with a homo-mixer and, after degasification, cooled down to 30° C. to prepare a cosmetic composition.

Experimental Example 1

[0034] Change of viscosity and stability on the function of the combination and content of naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants and the content of oil-soluble ingredient

[0035] Each oil-in-water type emulsion of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 was evaluated in regards to the change of viscosity and stability on the function of the change in the combination and content of surfactants (Comparative Examples 1 to 4) and the change in the content of the oil-soluble ingredient (Comparative Examples 5 and 6). In this regard, the viscosity was measured with Spindle No. 3 at 12 rpm using a Brookfield viscometer LVDV-II (manufactured by Brookfield engineering laboratories). The measurement results are presented in Table 3.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Test Viscosity substance (cps) Stability In-use feel Example 1 1,630 Good Quite a thin constancy Comparative 240 Separation at 60° C. Feels light Example 1 next day Comparative 870 Separation at 60° C. in Feels light Example 2 7 days Comparative 865 Separation at 60° C. Feels light Example 3 next day Comparative 2,350 Good Feels heavy and Example 4 leaves residue Comparative 1,100 Good Lacks in Example 5 softness Comparative 2,120 Separation at 30° C. Too oily Example 6 immediately after preparation Good: Typically, considered to secure 4-week stability in a cycle pyrostat at −10° C., 5° C., 30° C., 37° C., 45° C. or 60° C.

[0036] As can be seen from the results of Table 3, the oil-in-water type emulsion of Example 1 having the combination and content of naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants and the content of the oil-soluble ingredient according to the present invention can secure formulation stability and light feel with a thin constancy at the target viscosity of 4,000 cps or below. Contrarily, the oil-in-water type emulsion which contains the naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants at an amount of less than 0.20 wt. % (Comparative Example 1) has an extremely low viscosity and undergoes phase separation at high temperature the next day without securing formulation stability. The oil-in-water type emulsion which contains the naturally derived saccharide-based surfactants at an amount of greater than 1.50 wt. % (Comparative Example 4) secures formulation stability but has an extremely high viscosity to offer a thin consistency, leaving residues on the skin. Further, the oil-in-water type emulsion undergoes phase separation at high temperature and fails to secure formulation stability when it does not contain either one of the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion or the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion or has an inappropriate combination of the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively large hydrophilic portion and the saccharide-based surfactant having a relatively small hydrophilic portion (Comparative Examples 2 and 3). Finally, the oil-in-water type emulsion which contains the oil-soluble ingredient at an amount of less than 5 wt. % (Comparative Example 5) lacks in softness, and the oil-in-water type emulsion which contains the oil-soluble ingredient at an amount of greater than 15 wt. % (Comparative Example 6) fails to emulsify and undergoes phase separation at the room temperature.

Experimental Example 2

Measurement of Skin Melanin Index According to the Content of Whitening Ingredient

[0037] To evaluate the whitening effect of the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 5, thirty-one healthy women who are 25 to 35 years old with at least third-degree hyperpigmentation on the face according to SOP are told to use each emulsion for 8 weeks to measure the skin lightness and the melanin index after the applications. More specifically, thirty-one women are divided into two groups: the one consists of 15 women, the other 16 women. Each group uses two compositions. The melanin index is measured with a Mexameter three times on the hyperpigmented region and the non-pigmented region before the application of each emulsion and after 8 weeks of application. The melanin index is used to calculate the improvement rate of melanin index according to the following equation 1 and then averaged. The results are presented in Table 4.

[00001]$\begin{array}{cc}\mathrm{Improvement}.Math..Math.\mathrm{rate}.Math..Math.\left(\%\right).Math..Math.\mathrm{of}.Math..Math.\mathrm{melanin}.Math..Math.\mathrm{index}=\frac{\begin{array}{c}\mathrm{Melanin}.Math..Math.\mathrm{index}.Math..Math.\mathrm{after}.Math..Math.8.Math..Math.\mathrm{weeks}-\\ \mathrm{Melanin}.Math..Math.\mathrm{index}.Math..Math.\mathrm{before}.Math..Math.\mathrm{use}\end{array}.Math.}{\mathrm{Melanin}.Math..Math.\mathrm{index}.Math..Math.\mathrm{before}.Math..Math.\mathrm{use}}\times 100& \left[\mathrm{Equation}.Math..Math.1\right]\end{array}$

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Measurement results Measured Example Index region 1 2 3 4 5 Improvement Hyperpigmented −0.07 −3.21 −4.68 −4.13 −7.34 rate (%) of region melanin Non-pigmented −0.03 −3.01 −3.45 −3.14 −5.84 index region

[0038] As can be seen from Table 4, the cosmetic composition containing none of green tea polysaccharide, mushroom-derived yeast extract and niacinamide (Example 1) shows the melanin index improving effect after 8 weeks. The cosmetic composition containing niacinamide (Example 2) has the melanin index improving effect. The cosmetic composition containing either a combination of niacinamide and green tea polysaccharide or a combination of niacinamide and mushroom-derived yeast extract (Example 3 or 4) exerts the greater effect to improve the melanin index. Also, the cosmetic composition containing all the three ingredients of niacinamide, green tea polysaccharide and mushroom-derived yeast extract (Example 5) provides the synergy effect to remarkably reduce the melanin index.