Process for treating the hair with at least one silicone functionalized with at least one alkoxysilane unit, and steam

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating the hair, which comprises: a) the application to the hair of a composition comprising one or more polymers containing a silicone unit bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups, b) the application to the hair of steam by means of a device that is capable of generating steam, step b) possibly preceding, following or being simultaneous with step a).

Claims

1. A method for treating hair, comprising: (a) applying a composition comprising at least one polymer containing a silicone unit bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups chosen from compounds according to formula (I) below: ##STR00007## wherein: Z.sub.2 is chosen from CH.sub.2NR.sub.3R.sub.4 groups; Z.sub.3 is chosen from OR.sub.5 groups or a R.sub.6 group; R.sub.1 is chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups; R.sub.3 is chosen from a hydrogen atom or a R.sub.7 group and R.sub.4 is chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups or C.sub.5-C.sub.6 cycloalkyl groups, or R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 may form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms; R.sub.5, R.sub.6, and R.sub.7, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups; R.sub.a and R.sub.b, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C.sub.1-C.sub.2 alkyl groups; and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, and (b) applying steam to the hair by a device capable of generating steam; wherein the steam is applied to the hair prior to, subsequent to, or simultaneously with applying the composition.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the steam is applied to the hair subsequent to applying the composition.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the steam output ranges from about 0.5 g/min to about 60 g/min.

4. The method according to claim 1, further comprising heating the hair to a temperature ranging from about 50 C. to about 250 C., wherein the heat is applied to the hair prior to, subsequent to, or simultaneously with applying the steam.

5. The method according to claim 4, wherein the heating is performed using a heating device chosen from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a hair drying hood, or a hairdryer.

6. The method according to claim 5, wherein applying steam and the heating of the hair are performed by a single device chosen from a steam-generating straightening iron, a steam-generating curling iron, a steam-generating crimping iron, or a steam-generating waving iron.

7. The method according to claim 6, wherein applying steam and the heating of the hair are performed by a single device, wherein the application of steam and the heating are dissociated.

8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups are chosen from methyl or ethyl groups.

9. The method according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 form, with the nitrogen atom that bears them, a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle comprising from 1 to 3 heteroatoms.

10. The method according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.3 and R.sub.4 form, with the nitrogen that bears them, a morpholino group, and R.sub.5 is an ethyl group.

11. The method according to claim 1, wherein SiR.sub.aR.sub.b[OSiR.sub.aR.sub.b]n- of formula (I) is a unit derived from a linear silicone, wherein the SiR.sub.aR.sub.b[OSiR.sub.aR.sub.b]n- of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from about 200 g/mol to about 40,000 g/mol.

12. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polymer containing a silicone unit bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one organic solvent chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters, silicones, or mixtures thereof.

14. The method according to claim 13, wherein the at least one organic solvent is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises water in an amount less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one silicone compound different from the at least one polymer containing a silicone unit bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups.

17. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one silicone compound comprising at least one alkyl unit.

18. The method according to claim 1, further comprising applying to the hair a pre-treatment composition, the pre-treatment composition comprising at least one organosilane, wherein the pre-treatment composition is applied to the hair prior to the composition comprising at least one polymer containing a silicone unit bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silylfunctional groups.

19. The method according to claim 18, wherein the at least one organosilane is chosen from compounds according to formula (II) below, oligomers thereof, or mixtures thereof:
R1Si(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y(II) wherein: R1 is chosen from a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, wherein the chain is optionally substituted with a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR, wherein R is chosen from a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a C3-C40 cycloalkyl, or a C6-C30 aromatic radical; a hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group optionally substituted with an NH2 or NHR group; it being possible for R1 to be interrupted with a heteroatom or a carbonyl group, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y is an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z is an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x is an integer ranging from 0 to 2, wherein x+y+z=3.

20. The method according to claim 19, wherein the at least one organosilane of formula (II) is chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, or N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane.

21. The method according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one catalyst.

22. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one catalyst is chosen from organic or mineral basic compounds, organic or mineral acids, or mixtures thereof.

23. The method according to claim 21, wherein the at least one catalyst is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The method according to claim 1, wherein the method further comprises applying at least one catalyst to the hair before or after the composition comprising the at least one polymer containing a silicone unit bearing alkoxy-(aminomethyl)-silyl functional groups.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) The following compositions were prepared for performing the process of the invention, the contents being expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition:

(2) TABLE-US-00001 A B C D E Polymer Ic (MW = 5200) 2.5 20.0 10.0 2.5 Iron oxides (and) mica 5.0 5.0 5.0 (51.6/48.4) Isopropyl alcohol qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Cyclopentasiloxane qs 100

Example 1

(3) Composition A was applied to locks of natural frizzy dry hair, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g.

(4) According to a first process (P1) according to the invention, after applying composition A, each lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min.

(5) According to a second process (P2) according to the invention, after applying composition A, dry steam was applied to the locks using a steam-generating device with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min, each lock being treated with the device five times. Next, each lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min.

(6) According to a third process (P3), after applying composition A, each lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(7) The amount of silicon on the hair treated via the various processes at t0, i.e. just after the steps of the processes, and after 1 shampoo wash, was measured by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry.

(8) The results are given in the table below, in which the amount of silicon is indicated in g per g of hair.

(9) TABLE-US-00002 P1 P2 (invention) (invention) P3 at t0 1628 1682 1967 after 1 shampoo wash 1101 1462 894

(10) It is found that the amount of silicon originating from polymer Ic after one shampoo wash is greater on the hair that has undergone a steam treatment (P1 and P2 relative to P3), this amount increasing further when an additional steam treatment was performed (P2 relative to P1).

Example 2

(11) Composition B was applied to locks of natural dry grey hair containing 90% white hairs, with a bath ratio of 0.3 g/g.

(12) According to a process P4, after applying composition B, each lock was treated with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(13) According to a process P5 according to the invention, after applying composition B, dry steam was applied to the locks using a steam-generating device with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min, each lock being treated once with the device, each treatment lasting 10 seconds. Each lock was then treated with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(14) According to a process P6 according to the invention, after applying composition B, dry steam was applied to the locks using a steam-generating device with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min, each lock being treated with the device five times, each treatment lasting 10 seconds. Each lock was then treated with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(15) The persistence of red nacre deposited during the process was evaluated visually at t0 and after 2 shampoo washes. The following results were obtained:

(16) TABLE-US-00003 P5 P6 P4 (invention) (invention) at t0 +++ +++ +++ after 2 shampoo washes + ++ +++: very strong red intensity ++: strong red intensity +: moderate red intensity : weak red intensity : very weak to zero red intensity

(17) It is found that the persistence of the composition on the hair is increased with the steam treatment, the persistence increasing with the amount of steam applied.

Example 3

(18) The following processes were performed on locks of natural dry grey hair containing 90% white hairs, the compositions having been applied to the hair with a bath ratio of 0.3 g/g.

(19) According to a process P7, composition D was applied to the locks and left to dry at room temperature.

(20) According to a process P8, composition C was applied to the locks and left to dry at room temperature.

(21) According to a process P9, composition D was applied to the locks. Each lock was then treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(22) According to a process P10, composition C was applied to the locks. Each lock was then treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(23) According to a process P11, composition D was applied to the locks. Each lock was then treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds.

(24) According to a process P12 according to the invention, composition C was applied to the locks. Each lock was then treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds.

(25) The persistence of red nacre deposited during the process was evaluated visually at t0, after one shampoo wash and after two shampoo washes.

(26) TABLE-US-00004 P12 P7 P8 P9 P10 P11 (invention) At t0 +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ After 1 shampoo wash ++ ++ after 2 shampoo + ++ washes +++: very strong red intensity ++: strong red intensity +: moderate red intensity : weak red intensity : very weak to zero red intensity

(27) It is found that the persistence of the composition on the hair is increased with the steam treatment, the persistence increasing with the amount of steam applied. In particular, it is found that a steam treatment combined with heat increases the persistence of the composition when compared with a heat treatment alone.

4) Example 4

(28) A lock of natural frizzy hair that has undergone no treatment (width control) and such a lock that has undergone various treatments described below were placed in a humid chamber, at 80% relative humidity, for 24 hours. The width of these locks was then measured to evaluate the volume uptake in a humid atmosphere.

(29) In particular these measurements were taken on locks for which processes P13 to P15 below were performed.

(30) According to a process P13, each lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(31) According to a process P14, composition E was applied to locks of dry hair, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Each lock was then treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(32) According to a process P15 according to the invention, composition E was applied to locks of dry hair, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Dry steam was then applied to the locks using a steam-generating device with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min, each lock being treated once with the device, each treatment lasting 15 seconds. Each lock was then treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C.

(33) The following results were obtained.

(34) TABLE-US-00005 P14 P15 Width P13 Polymer + Polymer + 1*steam + control 2* Heat 2*heat 2*heat Width (cm) 9.5 9.0 6.0 5.0
It is found that the use of a treatment with the polymer combined with a steam treatment and a heat treatment makes it possible to increase the humidity resistance of the straightening when compared with a heat treatment alone and also when compared with a treatment with the polymer combined with a heat treatment.

(35) The process according to the invention thus makes it possible to durably reduce the volume of the hair in a humid environment.

Example 5

(36) The following compositions were prepared for performing the process of the invention, the contents being expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition:

(37) TABLE-US-00006 F G Polymer Ic (MW = 11100) 5.0 5.0 Bis-cetearyl amodimethicone 2.0 Cyclopentasiloxane qs 100 qs 100

(38) The following processes were performed on locks of natural frizzy wet hair.

(39) According to one process P16, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds.

(40) According to one process P17, composition F was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Then, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds.

(41) According to one process P18, composition G was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Then, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds.

(42) Then, the locks described above were placed in a humid chamber, at 80% relative humidity, for 24 hours.

(43) The volume uptake in a humid atmosphere and the feel of the lock have been evaluated.

(44) At T.sub.24H, the volume of the lock treated according to process P17 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P16. The volume of lock treated according to process P18 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P17.

(45) It is found that the use of a treatment with the polymer and a silicone compound makes it possible to increase again the humidity resistance of the straightening when compared with treatment with the polymer alone.

(46) In addition, the feel of the lock treated according to process P17 is softer and smoother than the feel of the lock treated according to process P16. The feel of the lock treated according to process P18 is softer and smoother than the feel of the lock treated according to process P17.

(47) It is found that the use of a treatment with the polymer and a silicone compound makes it possible to improve again the feel of the lock when compared with treatment with the polymer alone.

Example 6

(48) The following pre-treatment composition was prepared, the contents being expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition:

(49) TABLE-US-00007 H Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5.0 Lactic acid Qs pH Water Qs 100

(50) The following processes were performed on locks of natural frizzy dry hair.

(51) According to one process P19, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds. Then, the lock was washed with a shampoo.

(52) According to one process P20, composition F was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Then, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds. Then, the lock was washed with a shampoo.

(53) According to one process P21, composition H was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Then, composition F was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. And then, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds. Then, the lock was washed with a shampoo.

(54) The volume of the hair after one shampoo was then evaluated.

(55) The volume of the lock treated according to process P20 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P19. The volume of lock treated according to process P21 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P20.

(56) It is found that the use of a pre-treatment with an organosilane improve again the resistance of the straightening after one shampoo (volume decrease, less frizziness).

(57) According to one process P22, composition H was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. Then, composition G was applied to the lock, with a bath ratio of 0.15 g/g. And then, the lock was treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min. Each treatment lasted 15 seconds. Then, the lock was washed with a shampoo.

(58) Then, in each process P19 to P22, each lock was washed with a shampoo and treated twice with straightening tongs heated to 210 C. applying dry steam with a flow rate of 3.3 g/min, each treatment lasted 15 seconds, until 10 times (10 shampoos followed by 10 straightening).

(59) After 10 shampoos, the volume of the lock treated according to process P20 was reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P19. The volume of lock treated according to process P22 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P20.

(60) It is found that the use of a pre-treatment with an organosilane improve the persistence of the resistance of the straightening after shampoos (volume decrease, less frizziness).

(61) Furthermore, the disentangling of wet hair treated with process P22 is also improved after ten shampoos compared to wet hair treated with process P19.

(62) After each shampoo and straightening treatment, the locks described above were placed in a humid chamber, at 80% relative humidity, for 24 hours. (P19, P20 and P22) Then the volume uptake in a humid atmosphere was evaluated.

(63) The volume of the lock treated according to process P20 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P19. The volume of lock treated according to process P22 was significantly reduced compared to the volume of the lock treated according to process P20.

(64) It is found that the use of the polymer makes it possible to increase the persistence of the humidity resistance of the straightening.

(65) It is also found that the use of a pre-treatment with an organosilane improves again the persistence of the humidity resistance of the straightening.