GELLED COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DISPERSION OF SOLID AGGREGATES

Abstract

A composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, including at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture. The composition also includes a dispersion of solid aggregates, said aggregates being formed from 10% to 80% by weight of wax(es), relative to their total weight. Also disclosed is a process for preparing such a composition.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture; wherein said composition also comprises a dispersion of solid aggregates, said aggregates being formed from 10% to 80% by weight of wax(es), relative to their total weight.

2. The composition of claim 1, comprising from 1% to 40% by weight of solid aggregates relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the solid aggregates are formed from 15% to 60% by weight of wax(es) relative to their total weight.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax(es) are chosen from ester waxes.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the wax(es) are chosen from beeswax and a mixture of esters of behenic acid and of glycerol.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein said aggregates also comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein said aggregates have a size of between 0.1 m and 100 m.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein said aggregates have, at 25 C. and under atmospheric pressure, a hardness of greater than 0.5 N.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein said aggregates are dispersed in the gelled oily phase.

10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone (and) DimethiconeNinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, and Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3.

13. (canceled)

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the gelled aqueous phase also comprises at least one filler.

15. (canceled)

16. (canceled)

17. A process for preparing a composition according to claim 1, comprising at least the following steps: i) providing a first solid composition comprising from 10% to 80% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of the composition; ii) providing an oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomers; iii) mixing said first solid composition and said gelled oily phase with stirring at room temperature, under conditions that are effective for dispersing said first composition in the form of solid aggregates in said gelled oily phase; iv) introducing into the mixture obtained on conclusion of the preceding step an aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, at room temperature, under conditions that are suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

18. The process of claim 17, wherein said first solid composition of step i) is prepared at a temperature of between 30 C. and 120 C. and then cooled to room temperature.

19. A cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0815] Measurement Methods

[0816] In the examples detailed below, the following measurement methods are used.

[0817] Measurement of the Soft Focus

[0818] The soft focus is determined by measuring the haze and the transparency, i.e. the perception of light at wide angles.

[0819] The measurements are taken using a Hazegard (Hazegard Plus C, Byk-Gardner) on a film 50 m thick, deposited on a PET film (PA-2871, Byk-Gardner). 3 measurements are taken after drying for 1 hour at room temperature.

[0820] Measurement of the Tack and the Glidance

[0821] The performance qualities in terms of glidance and tack are determined by means of a SWIFT evaluation by a panel of 2 trained and competent people.

[0822] Visual Effect

[0823] The evaluation of the visual effect consists in grading the performance level according to two criteria: masking and matt effect, from 1 (less effect) to 5.5 (more effect) on a Skin FX support (CLSFX, reference SKINFX-DS8-H40-MLT-CST+CBW) and compared by reference points.

[0824] Sensory Effect

[0825] The evaluation of the sensory effect consists in grading the performance level according to three criteria: application, playtime and feel, from 1 (less effect) to 5.5 (more effect) on a Skin FX support sheet (CLSFX, reference SKINFX-SH-H40-BAK-COULEUR-LAN) applied to the back of the hand.

Example 1

[0826] The care compositions 1 (according to the invention) and 2 (outside the invention) were prepared and their cosmetic properties were evaluated.

[0827] 1) Preparation of Composition 1 According to the Invention

[0828] A composition 1 in accordance with the invention is prepared.

[0829] Prior to the preparation of the composition, a solid composition A formed from the following ingredients is prepared:

TABLE-US-00001 Content Composition A (weight %) Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl 23.33 myristate (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 23.33 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil qs 100 Chemical) Glyceryl dibehenate (53%) (and) tribehenin 30 (30%) (and) glyceryl behenate (17%) (Compritol 888 CG ATO, Gattefoss)

[0830] The composition is prepared in a continuous twin-screw blender, such as the BC-21 model from the company Clextral, and is performed under the following conditions: [0831] inlet temperature: 80 C.; [0832] outlet temperature: 20 C.; [0833] flow rate: 3 kg/hour; and [0834] screw speed: 600 rpm.

[0835] The pre-melted waxes are introduced into the top of the blender, at the same time as the oil, and the mixture is then cooled with continuous twin-screw blending down to the outlet temperature.

[0836] An organopolysiloxane powder composition 1 according to the invention as detailed in the table below is prepared.

[0837] The lipophilic phase is prepared beforehand.

[0838] The lipophilic phase and composition A are homogenized in a Rayneri blender for the purposes of dispersing composition A in the form of solid aggregates.

[0839] The hydrophilic phase is prepared and then added at room temperature to the lipophilic phase and to the solid aggregates of composition A.

TABLE-US-00002 Content Phase Composition 1 according to the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 15.00 Adenosine 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium hyaluronate (Cristalhyal LO, Soliance) 0.10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.35 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked 4.55 polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 3002, 0.65 Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Aggregates Dispersion of solid aggregates of composition A 23 Lipophilic Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, Ajinomoto) 0.90 phase Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 2.40 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 9.00 (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu) Shea butter (Lipex 204 TR, Aarhuskarlshamn) 2.00 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron 0.10 oxides (and) tin oxide Titanium dioxide (and) mica 0.15 Fragrance 0.10

[0840] 2) Preparation of Composition 2 Outside the Invention

[0841] A composition 2 outside the invention is prepared using the following weight proportions:

TABLE-US-00003 Content Phases Composition 2 outside the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 15.00 Adenosine 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium hyaluronate (Cristalhyal LO, Soliance) 0.10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.35 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane 4.55 crosslinked polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 0.65 3002, Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Lipophilic Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl myristate 5.37 phase (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 5.37 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil Chemical) 5.37 Glyceryl dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) glyceryl 6.90 behenate (Compritol 888 CG ATO, Gattefoss) Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, 0.90 Ajinomoto) Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 2.40 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone 9.00 crosspolymer (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu) Shea butter (Lipex 204 TR, Aarhuskarlshamn) 2.00 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) 0.10 iron oxides (and) tin oxide Titanium dioxide (and) mica 0.15 Fragrance 0.10

[0842] Each hydrophilic and lipophilic phase is prepared beforehand. The components are weighed out, heated with Rayneri blender at 80 C. and then cooled without stirring. The hydrophilic and lipophilic phases are homogenized together with Rayneri blender at room temperature.

[0843] 3) Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties

[0844] Composition 1 in accordance with the invention, comprising a dispersion of solid aggregates, has better masking performance with provision of sheen and also better performance qualities in terms of glidance and tack (ease of application, and skin less tacky), compared with composition 2 outside the invention.

[0845] The soft-focus results are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00004 Composition Haze (%) Transmittance (%) 1 .sup.79 0.3 87.1 0.3 2 54.2 0.3 89.5 0.3

[0846] Composition 1 in accordance with the invention comprising a dispersion of solid aggregates has better soft-focus performance than composition 2 outside the invention.

[0847] Furthermore, composition 1 according to the invention exhibits a reduced fluffing effect during the application compared to composition 2 outside the invention.

Example 2

[0848] The care compositions 3, 5 and 7 (according to the invention) and 4 and 6 (outside the invention) were prepared and their cosmetic properties were evaluated.

[0849] 1) Preparation of Composition 3 According to the Invention

[0850] Prior to the preparation of the composition, a solid composition B formed from the following ingredients is prepared according to the protocol indicated in Example 1 for composition A.

TABLE-US-00005 Content Composition B (weight %) Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl 23.33 myristate (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 23.33 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil qs 100 Chemical) Glyceryl dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) 30 glyceryl behenate (Compritol 888 CG ATO, Gattefoss)

[0851] A composition 3 according to the invention as detailed in the table below is prepared, according to the same protocol used for composition 1 of Example 1:

TABLE-US-00006 Content Phase Composition 3 according to the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 18.45 Adenosine 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium hyaluronate (Cristalhyal LO, Soliance) 0.10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.69 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked 5.95 polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 3002, 0.85 Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Aggregates Dispersion of solid aggregates of composition B 7.5 Lipophilic Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, Ajinomoto) 0.38 phase Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 1.58 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 5.48 (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu) Capryloylsalicylic acid 0.3 Shea butter (Lipex 204 TR, Aarhuskarlshamn) 2.00

[0852] 2) Preparation of Composition 4 Outside the Invention

[0853] A composition 4 outside the invention is prepared using the following weight proportions, according to the same protocol used for composition 2 of Example 1:

TABLE-US-00007 Content Phases Composition 4 outside the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 18.45 Adenosine 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium hyaluronate (Cristalhyal LO, Soliance) 0.10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.69 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane 5.95 crosslinked polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 0.85 3002, Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Lipophilic Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl myristate 1.75 phase (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 1.75 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil Chemical) 1.75 Glyceryl dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) glyceryl 2.25 behenate (Compritol 888 CG ATO, Gattefoss) Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, 0.38 Ajinomoto) Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 1.58 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone 5.48 crosspolymer (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu) Capryloylsalicylic acid 0.3 Shea butter (Lipex 204 TR, Aarhuskarlshamn) 2.00

[0854] 3) Preparation of Composition 5 According to the Invention

[0855] Prior to the preparation of the composition, a solid composition C formed from the following ingredients is prepared according to the protocol indicated in Example 1 for composition A.

TABLE-US-00008 Content Composition C (weight %) Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl 20 myristate (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 20 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil qs 100 Chemical) Beeswax 40

[0856] A composition 5 according to the invention as detailed in the table below is prepared, according to the same protocol used for composition 1 of Example 1:

TABLE-US-00009 Content Phase Composition 5 according to the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 11.05 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.11 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked 4.55 polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 3002, 0.65 Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Aggregates Dispersion of solid aggregates of composition C 23 Lipophilic Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, Ajinomoto) 0.6 phase Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 2.52 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 8.76 (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu)

[0857] 4) Preparation of Composition 6 Outside the Invention

[0858] A composition 6 outside the invention is prepared using the following weight proportions, according to the same protocol used for composition 2 of Example 1:

TABLE-US-00010 Content Composition 6 outside the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 11.05 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.11 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane 4.55 crosslinked polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 0.65 3002, Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Lipophilic Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl myristate 4.6 phase (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 4.6 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil Chemical) 4.6 Beeswax 9.2 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, 0.6 Ajinomoto) Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 2.52 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone 8.76 crosspolymer (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu)

[0859] 5) Preparation of Composition 7 According to the Invention

[0860] Prior to the preparation of the composition, a solid composition D formed from the following ingredients is prepared according to the protocol indicated in Example 1 for comnosition A.

TABLE-US-00011 Content Composition D (weight %) Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl 23.33 myristate (Dub Liquide 85 IP, Starineries Dubois) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam, NOF 23.33 Corporation) Mineral oil (Marcol 82, Exxonmobil qs 100 Chemical) Glyceryl dibehenate (and) tribehenin (and) 30 glyceryl behenate (Compritol 888 CG ATO, Gattefoss)

[0861] A composition 7 according to the invention as detailed in the table below is prepared, according to the same protocol used for composition 1 of Example 1:

TABLE-US-00012 Content Phase Composition 7 according to the invention (weight %) Hydrophilic Water qs 100 phase Glycerol 16.92 Adenosine 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Disodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium hyaluronate (Cristalhyal LO, Soliance) 0.10 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 1.30 copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, SEPPIC) Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked 5.32 polymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu) Boron nitride (Boron Nitride Powder Tres BN PUHP 3002, 0.76 Saint-Gobain Ceramics) Aggregates Dispersion of solid aggregates of composition D 12 Lipophilic Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, Ajinomoto) 0.6 phase Dimethicone (KF-96L-2CS, Shin-Etsu) 2.52 Caprylyl glycol 0.20 Capryloylsalicylic acid 0.3 Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 8.46 (X-25-7034H, Shin-Etsu) Shea butter (Lipex 204 TR, Aarhuskarlshamn) 2.00 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron 0.10 oxides (and) tin oxide Titanium dioxide (and) mica 0.15 Fragrance 0.15

[0862] 6) Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties

[0863] Compositions 3 and 5 in accordance with the invention, comprising a dispersion of solid aggregates, have better masking performance with provision of sheen and also better performance qualities in terms of glidance and tack (ease of application, and skin less tacky), compared with compositions 4 and 6 outside the invention.

[0864] In particular, compared with compositions 4 and 6, compositions 3 and 5 according to the invention allow better application and a better sensory effect. Compositions 3 and 5 are less tacky and more glidant, resulting in better playtime and greater softness.

[0865] Composition 7 according to the invention has very good emollience and comfort properties.

[0866] The soft-focus results are presented in the table below:

TABLE-US-00013 Composition Haze (%) Transmittance (%) 3 80.83 0.3 88.63 0.3 4 78.46 0.3 87.73 0.3 5 85.83 0.3 89.03 0.3 6 79.03 0.3 88.45 0.3

[0867] Composition 3 in accordance with the invention, comprising solid aggregates, in the form of dispersed particles, has better soft-focus performance than composition 4 outside the invention. Similarly, composition 5 has better performance qualities than composition 6.

[0868] Compared with composition 4, composition 3 according to the invention has a better measured and perceived soft-focus optical effect: the formulations are less matt. This is likewise the case for composition 5 compared with composition 6.

[0869] Furthermore, compositions 3, 5 and 7 according to the invention all exhibit a reduced fluffing effect during the application compared to compositions 4 and 6 outside the invention.