Solid cosmetic composition in pressed powder form

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a preferably pressed powder, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: an oily phase greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a pulverulent phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one spherical filler and at least one lamellar filler, the spherical filler(s) and the lamellar filler(s) being present in a respective total weight content such that the weight ratio of the spherical filler(s) to the lamellar filler(s) is greater than or equal to 0.01 and preferably between 0.02 and 15. The present invention also relates to a product obtained by means of a particular process, to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition, and to a process for coating the face with said cosmetic composition.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: an oily phase greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition, wherein the oily phase comprises a non-volatile oil in an amount of at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a pulverulent phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising a spherical filler and a lamellar filler, and a hydrophobic film-forming polymer as the only film former in the solid cosmetic composition, wherein the hydrophobic film forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of a styrene-ethylene/butylene diblock copolymer, a styrene/ethylene-propylene diblock copolymer, a styrene-ethylene/isoprene diblock copolymer, a styrene-ethylene/propylene diblock copolymer, a styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene triblock copolymer, and a mixture thereof wherein a content of the spherical filler is at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a sebum uptake of the spherical filler is at least 10 ml/100 g determined by measuring the amount of sebum adsorbed on to available surfaces of the spherical filler by measuring the wet point, and a weight ratio of the spherical filler to the lamellar filler is between 0.35 and 15, the solid composition is a pressed powder, the solid cosmetic composition is obtained by a process comprising: mixing the oily phase, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer, the pulverulent phase, and at least one additional volatile solvent to produce a suspension, subsequently pressing the suspension, and completely removing the at least one volatile solvent by suctioning.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pulverulent phase is present in a content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical filler is selected from the group consisting of: silica powders; powders of acrylic polymer, copolymer, or a derivative thereof; polyurethane powders; silicone powders; polyamide powders; perlite powders; and any mixture thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical filler is present in a total content of from 10 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lamellar filler is present in a total content greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the spherical filler and the lamellar filler are present in a total content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the pulverulent phase further comprises a colouring agent in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of at least one synthetic ester of oils of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2, where R.sub.1 represents a residue of at least one linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, R.sub.2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R.sub.1+R.sub.2 is greater than or equal to 10.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises a silicone oil.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase comprises a hydrocarbon-based oil, and a silicone oil.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to claim 1, which is a face powder.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic film forming polymer is a styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene block copolymer.

14. A process for manufacturing the cosmetic composition of claim 1, the process comprising: mixing an oily phase at a content of greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition, wherein the oily phase comprises a non-volatile oil in an amount of at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a pulverulent phase at a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight, the hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and at least one additional volatile solvent, pressing to form the composition, and completely removing the additional volatile solvent by suctioning to form a pressed powder, wherein the pulverulent phase comprises a spherical filler and a lamellar filler, a content of the spherical filler is at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a sebum uptake of the spherical filler is at least 10 ml/100 g determined by measuring the amount of sebum adsorbed on to available surfaces of the spherical filler by measuring the wet point, and a weight ratio of the spherical filler to the lamellar filler is between 0.35 and 15.

15. A process for coating a face with the composition according to claim 1, the process comprising: applying the composition to the face.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Several examples intended to illustrate the invention in a non-limiting manner will now be described.

(2) Solid cosmetic compositions, in the form of pressed powders, of face powders according to the invention were prepared as follows, and then tested according to various, in particular sensory, cosmetic evaluation criteria.

(3) Examples 1 to 9 of formulations prepared employ various examples of face powder using spherical fillers, alone or as a mixture, in equivalent or different contents, and are compared with an example comprising only lamellar fillers.

(4) TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients with % content Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 P Mica q.s. for q.s. for q.s. for q.s. for 100 100 100 100 Talc 18 18 18 20 Pigments 8 8 8 8 Powder of 18 hexamethylene/trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer containing silica (Plastic Powder D 400) Crosslinked 18 polydimethylsiloxane gum beads coated with silsesquioxane resin (KSP 101 from Shin Etsu) Perlite powder (Optimat 18 2550 OR from World Minerals) Methylsilsesquioxane 18 resin microbeads (Tospearl 145 from Momentive Performance) F Styrene-ethylene/butylene- 1 1 1 1 styrene block copolymer (Kraton G1657M) C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate 26 26 26 26 (Tegosoft TN from Evonik Goldschmidt) Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane 12 12 12 12 (DC556 from Dow Corning) Preserving system 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ingredients with % content Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 Ex. 10 P Mica q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. for for for for for for 100 100 100 100 100 100 Talc 18 0 3 1 13 18 Pigments 8 8 8 8 8 8 Crosslinked PMMA 9.75 18.60 18.60 24.80 12.40 hemisphere (Microsphere M-310 from Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku) Nylon 12 powder (Orgasol 4.55 8.70 8.70 11.60 5.80 2002 EXD NAT COS from Arkema) Acrylate/ethylhexyl 4.55 8.70 8.70 11.60 5.80 acrylate powder (Techpolymer ACP-8C from Sekisui Plastics) F Styrene-ethylene/butylene- 1 1 1 1 1 1 styrene block copolymer (Kraton G1657M) C.sub.12-C.sub.15 alkyl benzoate 26 26 26 26 26 26 (Tegosoft TN from Evonik Goldschmidt) Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane 12 12 12 12 12 12 (DC556 from Dow Corning) Preserving system 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

(5) The procedure below was used to prepare the compositions according to the invention.

(6) 1Preparation of Phase P:

(7) The compounds of phase P (pulverulent phase) are weighed out and then dispersed in a Novamix 1 L mixer-disperser for 3 minutes 30 seconds with paddle stirring at 3000 rpm and decaking at 2700 rpm. The nacres are then introduced into the mixer and dispersed for 3 minutes with paddle stirring at 3000 rpm.

(8) 2Preparation of Phase F:

(9) The compounds of phase F (fatty phase) are weighed out in a heating pan and then heated to 95 C., and homogenization is performed with stirring, using a deflocculator (Turbotest 33/300 PHRayneri, VMI Group). Once the mixture is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55 C. for the introduction of the compound of the preserving system.

(10) 3Finalization of the Formula:

(11) Phases P and F are brought together in a Kenwood Chef KM010 blender, with stirring, and then an organic volatile solvent such as isododecane is introduced according to a ratio such that at least 20 g of isododecane are added per 100 g of composition prepared. The mixture is then homogenized for approximately 2 minutes.

(12) The preparation obtained is then pressed manually in a crucible. The isododecane rises by capillarity and is absorbed in a cloth.

(13) A Nanyo machine can be used to carry out this preparation and in particular the pressing step optionally with suctioning.

(14) According to an optional step, the composition may be heated by being placed in an oven or a furnace at a temperature of between 30 C. and 80 C. in order to accelerate or improve this step of removing the organic volatile solvent, for example at 45 C.

(15) Evaluation of the Sensoriality

(16) Evaluation Protocol:

(17) An evaluation protocol was performed on a panel of 10 experienced individuals, with the result concerning: the texture of the powder, the sensoriality and in particular the softness to the touch, the creaminess, the glide on uptake, the application (amount taken up, ease of application, adherence on application), the makeup result: uniformity, powdery effect, coverage, colour effect, mattness, comfort over the course of a day, wear property and ease of makeup removal of a composition according to the invention, evaluated by these same individuals.

(18) Results

(19) The tester panel brought to the fore in particular the aspect of a texture between a foundation and powder, more particularly the light texture in particular during disintegration and application, the ease of application, the absence of marks during application, the uniformity of the deposit, the matifying effect, the reduction of imperfections, the good wear property through the course of the day, the sensation of comfort the softness conferred on the skin, and a natural effect.

(20) For formula 10 devoid of spherical filler(s), it exhibits in particular less glide on disintegration, and is rougher, drier and less comfortable, and confers less softness on the skin.

(21) Measurement of the Impact Resistance

(22) Measurement Principle

(23) The machine used to perform such a measurement, known as a Package Drop-Test machine sold by the company Co Pack (Italy), makes it possible to perform drop tests on the solid compositions in compact powder form to measure their impact resistance. The drop height is 30 cm. By means of a small ruler, the size of the support that holds the compact is set (according to the size of the crucible) and the compact is then dropped by means of compressed air that actuates the aperture of the support.

(24) This machine replaces the manual drop tests performed previously by the formulator using a 30 cm ruler. In this new manner, they are repeatable and thus more reliable. These drop tests show good resistance of the face powders, with a measured drop value greater than or equal to 1, in particular strictly greater than 1, and especially between 2 and 5 (no significant cracks or demoulding).

(25) It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of dry matter of the compound in question.

(26) Throughout the patent application, the term between should be understood to mean inclusively between, unless otherwise specified.

(27) Throughout the patent application, the term comprises one or includes one should be understood to mean comprising at least one or including at least one, unless otherwise specified.