USE OF A MINERAL BLEND AS COSMETIC AGENT FOR WET COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

20230233424 · 2023-07-27

Assignee

Inventors

Cpc classification

International classification

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a mineral blend as cosmetic agent for a wet cosmetic composition, wherein the mineral blend comprises a first component being selected from natural ground calcium carbonate and/or precipitated calcium carbonate, and a second component being a surface-reacted calcium carbonate, as well as to a wet cosmetic composition comprising said mineral blend.

Claims

1. A method of using a mineral blend as a cosmetic agent for a wet cosmetic composition comprising the step of: introducing the mineral blend into the wet cosmetic composition, wherein the mineral blend comprises a first component being selected from natural ground calcium carbonate and/or precipitated calcium carbonate, and a second component being a surface-reacted calcium carbonate, wherein the surface-reacted calcium carbonate is a reaction product of natural ground calcium carbonate or precipitated calcium carbonate with carbon dioxide and at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor, wherein the carbon dioxide is formed in situ by the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor treatment and/or is supplied from an external source.

2. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the first component is present in an amount from 1 wt.-% to 99 wt.-%, preferably from 30 wt.-% to 99 wt.-%, more preferably from 50 wt.-% to 95 wt.-%, even more preferably from 60 wt.-% to 95 wt.-%, and most preferably from 70 wt.-% to 90 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the mineral blend, and wherein the second component is present in an amount from 1 wt.-% to 99 wt.-%, preferably from 1 wt.-% to 70 wt.-%, more preferably from 5 wt.-% to 50 wt.-%, even more preferably from 5 wt.-% to 40 wt.-%, and most preferably from 10 wt.-% to 30 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the mineral blend.

3. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the first component is a natural ground calcium carbonate selected from the group consisting of marble, chalk, limestone, and mixtures thereof, and/or wherein the first component is a precipitated calcium carbonate selected from the group consisting of precipitated calcium carbonates having an aragonitic, vateritic or calcitic crystal form, and mixtures thereof.

4. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor is selected from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, sulphurous acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, oxalic acid, an acidic salt, acetic acid, formic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor is selected from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, sulphurous acid, phosphoric acid, oxalic acid, H.sub.2PO.sub.4.sup.−, being at least partially neutralised by a cation selected from Li.sup.+, Na.sup.+ and/or K.sup.+, HPO.sub.4.sup.2−, being at least partially neutralised by a cation selected from Li.sup.+, Na.sup.+, K.sup.+, Mg.sup.2+, and/or Ca.sup.2+, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor is selected from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, sulphurous acid, phosphoric acid, oxalic acid, or mixtures thereof, and most preferably, the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor is phosphoric acid.

5. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the first component has a volume median particle size d.sub.50 from 0.1 to 50 μm, preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm, more preferably from 0.5 to 20 μm, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10 μm, and most preferably from 0.8 to 8 μm, and/or a specific surface area of from 0.5 m.sup.2/g to 30 m.sup.2/g, preferably from 1 m.sup.2/g to 20 m.sup.2/g, and more preferably from 2 m.sup.2/g to 15 m.sup.2/g, measured using nitrogen and the BET method, and/or wherein the second component has a volume median particle size d.sub.50 from 0.5 to 50 μm, preferably from 1 to 40 μm, more preferably from 1.2 to 30 μm, even more preferably from 1.5 to 15 μm, and most preferably from 3 to 10 μm, and/or a specific surface area of from 15 m.sup.2/g to 200 m.sup.2/g, preferably from 20 m.sup.2/g to 180 m.sup.2/g, more preferably from 25 m.sup.2/g to 160 m.sup.2/g, and most preferably from 30 m.sup.2/g to 90 m.sup.2/g, measured using nitrogen and the BET method.

6. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the surface-reacted calcium carbonate is associated with at least one active agent selected from pharmaceutically active agents, biologically active agents, disinfecting agents, preservatives, vitamins, flavouring agents, surfactants, oils, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

7. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the wet cosmetic composition comprises a water content of at least 15 wt.-%, preferably at least 20 wt.-%, more preferably at least 25 wt.-%, and most preferably at least 30 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the wet cosmetic composition.

8. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the wet cosmetic composition is free of talc or a talc-containing material.

9. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the wet cosmetic preparation further comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of bleaching agents, thickeners, stabilizers, chelating agents, preserving agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, colorants, flavours, oils, skin tanning compounds, antioxidants, minerals, pigments, UV-A and/or UV-B filter, and mixtures thereof.

10. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the wet cosmetic preparation is in form of a paste, an ointment, a cream, a gel, a lotion, a solution, an emulsion, or a solid form.

11. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the wet cosmetic composition is a make-up product, preferably a lip make-up product, an eye make-up product, or a facial make-up product; a nail care product, a lip care product, a skin care product, a hair care product, a hair styling product, a hair colouring product, a deodorant, a hair remover, a make-up remover, a baby care product, a sun protection product, a tanner product, a feminine hygiene product, a bath product, a facial cleaning product, a hair cleaning product, a skin cleaning product, a soap product, or an oral care product.

12. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the mineral blend is introduced to the wet cosmetic composition in sufficient amounts for the wet cosmetic composition to absorb fluids, boost fragrance, decrease skin friction, modify the skin feel, and/or modify the skin appearance.

13. The method of using the mineral blend as set forth in claim 1, wherein the mineral blend is used as a replacement for talc or talc-containing materials.

14. A wet cosmetic composition comprising a mineral blend, wherein the mineral blend comprises a first component being selected from natural ground calcium carbonate and/or precipitated calcium carbonate, and a second component being a surface-reacted calcium carbonate, wherein the surface-reacted calcium carbonate is a reaction product of natural ground calcium carbonate or precipitated calcium carbonate with carbon dioxide and at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor, wherein the carbon dioxide is formed in situ by the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor treatment and/or is supplied from an external source, and the wet cosmetic composition is a make-up product, preferably a lip make-up product, an eye make-up product, or a facial make-up product; a nail care product, a lip care product, a skin care product, a hair care product, a hair styling product, a hair colouring product, a deodorant, a hair remover, a make-up remover, a baby care product, a sun protection product, a tanner product, a feminine hygiene product, a bath product, a facial cleaning product, a hair cleaning product, a skin cleaning product, a soap product, or an oral care product.

15. The wet cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the wet cosmetic composition comprises the mineral blend in an amount from 0.1 to 50 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the wet cosmetic composition, preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt. %, more preferably from 1 to 10 wt.-%, and most preferably from 3 to 6 wt.-%.

16. The wet cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the first component is present in an amount from 70 wt.-% to 90 wt.-% based on the total weight of the mineral blend, and wherein the second component is present in an amount from 10 wt.-% to 30 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the mineral blend.

17. The wet cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the at least one H.sub.3O.sup.+ ion donor is selected from the group consisting of hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid, sulphurous acid, phosphoric acid, oxalic acid, and mixtures thereof.

18. The wet cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the first component has a volume median particle size d.sub.50 from 2 m.sup.2/g to 15 m.sup.2/g, measured using nitrogen and the BET method, and/or wherein the second component has a volume median particle size d.sub.50 from 30 m.sup.2/g to 90 m.sup.2/g, measured using nitrogen and the BET method.

19. The wet cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the surface-reacted calcium carbonate is associated with at least one active agent selected from pharmaceutically active agents, biologically active agents, disinfecting agents, preservatives, vitamins, flavouring agents, surfactants, oils, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

20. The wet cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the wet cosmetic preparation further comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of bleaching agents, thickeners, stabilizers, chelating agents, preserving agents, wetting agents, emulsifiers, emollients, fragrances, colorants, flavours, oils, skin tanning compounds, antioxidants, minerals, pigments, UV-A and/or UV-B filter, and mixtures thereof.

Description

EXAMPLES

1. Measurement Methods

[0215] In the following, measurement methods implemented in the examples are described.

[0216] Particle Size Distribution

[0217] Volume determined median particle size d50 (vol) and the volume determined top cut particle size d98 (vol) was evaluated using a Malvern Mastersizer 3000 Laser Diffraction System (Malvern Instruments Plc., Great Britain). The d50 (vol) or d98 (vol) value indicates a diameter value such that 50% or 98% by volume, respectively, of the particles have a diameter of less than this value. The raw data obtained by the measurement was analyzed using the Mie theory, with a particle refractive index of 1.57 and an absorption index of 0.005. The methods and instruments are known to the skilled person and are commonly used to determine particle size distributions of fillers and pigments. The measurement was carried out in an aqueous solution of 0.1 wt.-% Na4P2O7. The samples were dispersed using a high-speed stirrer and supersonicated.

[0218] Specific Surface Area (SSA)

[0219] The specific surface area was measured via the BET method according to ISO 9277:2010 using nitrogen, following conditioning of the sample by heating at 250° C. for a period of 30 minutes. Prior to such measurements, the sample was filtered within a Buchner funnel, rinsed with deionised water and dried at 110° C. in an oven for at least 12 hours.

[0220] Intra-Particle Intruded Specific Pore Volume (in Cm3/g)

[0221] The specific pore volume was measured using a mercury intrusion porosimetry measurement using a Micromeritics Autopore V 9620 mercury porosimeter having a maximum applied pressure of mercury 414 MPa (60 000 psi), equivalent to a Laplace throat diameter of 0.004 μm (˜nm). The equilibration time used at each pressure step was 20 seconds. The sample material was sealed in a 5 cm3 chamber powder penetrometer for analysis. The data were corrected for mercury compression, penetrometer expansion and sample material compression using the software Pore-Comp (Gane, P. A. C., Kettle, J. P., Matthews, G. P. and Ridgway, C. J., “Void Space Structure of Compressible Polymer Spheres and Consolidated Calcium Carbonate Paper-Coating Formulations”, Industrial and Engineering Chemistry Research, 35(5), 1996, p 1753-1764.).

[0222] The total pore volume seen in the cumulative intrusion data can be separated into two regions with the intrusion data from 214 μm down to about 1-4 μm showing the coarse packing of the sample between any agglomerate structures contributing strongly. Below these diameters lies the fine inter-particle packing of the particles themselves. If they also have intra-particle pores, then this region appears bi-modal, and by taking the specific pore volume intruded by mercury into pores finer than the modal turning point, i.e. finer than the bi-modal point of inflection, the specific intra-particle pore volume is defined. The sum of these three regions gives the total overall pore volume of the powder, but depends strongly on the original sample compaction/settling of the powder at the coarse pore end of the distribution.

[0223] By taking the first derivative of the cumulative intrusion curve the pore size distributions based on equivalent Laplace diameter, inevitably including pore-shielding, are revealed. The differential curves clearly show the coarse agglomerate pore structure region, the inter-particle pore region and the intra-particle pore region, if present. Knowing the intra-particle pore diameter range it is possible to subtract the remainder inter-particle and interagglomerate pore volume from the total pore volume to deliver the desired pore volume of the internal pores alone in terms of the pore volume per unit mass (specific pore volume). The same principle of subtraction, of course, applies for isolating any of the other pore size regions of interest.

[0224] Sensorial Analysis

[0225] A protocol of sensory evaluation was developed to characterize creams and deodorants.

[0226] The sensory properties were tested by applying cream or deodorant, respectively, on the hand or using the finger. To evaluate sensorial parameters like slipperiness the samples have been taken using the finger while spreadbility has been ranked by putting the samples on the hand. The samples were then rated on a 0-10 scale with 0 representing no opacity, for example, and 10 being the most severe degree of affected parameter.

[0227] The following attributes were thus identified and defined:

[0228] Visual Attributes (Appearance): [0229] Opacity (product's colour as it is): transparent to opaque

[0230] Attributes Evaluated During the Application: [0231] Slipperiness (ease of distribution the product over the application finger): low-high (high desired) [0232] Spreadability (ease of distribution the product over the skin): low-high (high desired)

[0233] Attributes Evaluated after the Application (after-Feel): [0234] Greasiness (oily aspect on the skin): low-high (low desired) [0235] Stickiness (residual sticky film on skin): low-high (low desired) [0236] Softness (softness of skin after of application of composition): low-high (high desired)

[0237] Coating of Contrast Cards

[0238] Contrast cards were coated by using the respective coating compositions and applying them with a coater gap of 50 μm on the surface of the contrast card. The contrast cards used are Leneta contrast cards, form 3-B-H, size 7-5/8×11-3/8 (194×289 mm), sold by the company Leneta, and distributed by Novamart, Stafa, Switzerland.

[0239] Determination of Colour Values (Rx, Ry, Rz)

[0240] The colour values Rx, Ry, Rz are determined over the white and black fields of the Leneta contrast card, and are measured with a spectraflas SF 450 X spectrophotometer of the company Datacolor, Montreuil, France.

[0241] Contrast Ratio (Opacity) of the Surface of a Coated Contrast Card

[0242] Contrast ratio values are determined according to ISO 2814 at a spreading rate of approx. 20 m.sup.2/l.

[0243] The contrast ratio is calculated as described by the equation below:

[00001] Contrast ratio [ % ] = Ry black Ry white × 100 %

[0244] with Ry.sub.black and Ry.sub.white being obtained by the measurement of the color values.

[0245] Determination of the Covering Power of Base Compositions

[0246] In order to determine the covering power (coverage) of the mineral blend and talc, respectively, base compositions comprising different concentrations of said materials, namely 5 and 10 wt.-% were prepared. The covering power of the respective base compositions was determined by measuring the colour values (Rx, Ry, Rz) and then calculating the contrast ratio, as described above. The ingredients of the base formulation and the base composition comprising the mineral blend or talc, respectively, are compiled in Tables 1 and 2 below.

[0247] The base composition was prepared as follows:

[0248] The demineralized water was added to a beaker, then, Calgon, Bermocoll and the sodium hydroxide solution were added under stirring with a lab dissolver until all ingredients were dissolved. Then the other ingredients listed in Table 1 up to Byk 349 were added while continuously stirring the mixture. Then the demineralized water was added and the resulting mixture was thoroughly mixed. Finally, the binding agent Mowilith was added during continuous stirring of the mixture at a speed of 100 rpm to obtain the final base formulation.

[0249] This base formulation was used for the preparation of base compositions with different pigment concentrations, as listed in Table 2 below.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ingredients of base formulation (wt.- % are based on total amount of base formulation). Ingredients wt.- % Demineralized water 40.0 Calgon N new 0.2 Bermocoll EHM 200 1.0 Sodium hydroxide solution, 10% 0.6 Byk 011 2.0 Texanol 0.5 Butyldiglycol acetate 0.5 Dowanol ™ DPnB 1.0 Byk 019 0.5 Coapur ™ 2025 1.8 Mergal 723 K 0.2 Demineralized water 5.0 Ecodis ™ P 90 0.6 Disperbyk ®-181 1.0 Byk 349 0.4 Demineralized water 14.7 Mowilith ® DM 2425, 50% 30.0 Total 100.0

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Base compositions (wt.- % are based on total amount of base composition). Composition No. A-1 A-2 (comparative) (comparative.) A-3 A-4 Ingredients wt.- % wt.- % wt.- % wt.- % Base 95.0 90.0 95.0 90.0 composition of Table 1 Mineral blend — — 5.0 10.0 Talc 5.0 10.0 — —

2. Materials

[0250] Natural Ground Calcium Carbonate (NGCC)

[0251] A high purity natural calcium carbonate having a d50 (vol) of 3.0 μm and a SSA of 2.5 m2/g that is commercially available from Omya.

[0252] Surface-Reacted Calcium Carbonate (SRCC)

[0253] Surface-reacted calcium carbonate (SRCC) (d50 (vol)=6.6 μm, d98=13.7 μm, SSA=59.9 m2/g). The intra-particle intruded specific pore volume is 0.939 cm3/g (for the pore diameter range of 0.004 to 0.51 μm).

[0254] SRCC was obtained by preparing 350 litres of an aqueous suspension of ground calcium carbonate in a mixing vessel by adjusting the solids content of a ground limestone calcium carbonate from Omya SAS, Orgon having a weight based median particle size d50 (wt) of 1.3 μm, as determined by sedimentation, such that a solids content of 10 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the aqueous suspension, is obtained. Whilst mixing the slurry at a speed of 6.2 m/s, 11.2 kg phosphoric acid was added in form of an aqueous solution containing 30 wt.-% phosphoric acid to said suspension over a period of 20 minutes at a temperature of 70° C. After the addition of the acid, the slurry was stirred for additional 5 minutes, before removing it from the vessel and drying using a jet-dryer.

[0255] Talc

[0256] Microtalc Pharma 8 having a d50 (vol) of 2.2 μm, a d98 (vol) of 9 μm and an SSA of 12 m2/g that is commercially available from Elementis.

[0257] Mineral Blend

[0258] The mineral blend was composed of 90 wt.-% NGCC and 10 wt.-% SRCC, based on the total weight of the mineral blend.

3. Examples

Example 1—Skin Cream Composition

[0259] Skin cream compositions were prepared as follows: [0260] Heat phase A and B separately at 80° C. [0261] Add phase B to phase A while stirring (Heidolph, Faust, 300 rpm) [0262] Cool down at room temperature [0263] Add phase C and D and homogenize (Ultra Turrax T25-D, IKA, 24 000 rpm) [0264] Adjust the pH at 6.0 using lactic acid (10%-solution).

[0265] The compositions of the prepared skin creams are compiled in Table 3 below.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Skin cream compositions (wt.-% values are based on total weight of the skin cream composition, comp.: comparative). B-1 B-2 B-4 B-5 Composition No. INCI (comp.) (comp.) B-3 (comp.) (comp.) Phase Ingredients Nomenclature wt.-% wt.-% wt.-% wt.-% wt.-% A) Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Emulium Tribehenin PEG- 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 22MB 20 Esters Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dulcis (Almond) Oil Macadamia Oil Macadamia Ternifolia 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Seed Oil Miglyol 812 Caprilyc/Capric 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Triglyceride MOD Octyldodecyl 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Myristate Copherol 1250C Tocopheryl Acetate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 B) Water dem. Aqua (water) add. 100 add. 100 add. 100 add. 100 add. 100 Propanediol Zemea Propanediol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Allantoin EP Allantoin 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 C) Mineral blend — — 5.00 — — Talc — 5.00 — — — SRCC — — — 5.00 — NGCC — — — — 5.00 D) Perfume Perfume q.s q.s q.s q.s q.s Leucidal Leuconostoc 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (and) Aqua 100.00  100.00  100.00  100.00  100.00 

Example 2—Deodorant Composition

[0266] Deodorant compositions were prepared as follows: [0267] Melt phase A at 75-80° C. [0268] Add part B and homogenize (Ultra Turrax T25-D, IKA, 24 000 rpm) [0269] Melt phase A&B at 75-80° C. [0270] Stir the mixture until cool to about 40° C. [0271] Add phase C to phases A and B [0272] Poor the mixture into forms

[0273] The compositions of the prepared deodorants are compiled in Table 4 below.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Deodorant compositions (wt.-% values are based on total weight of the deodorant composition, comp.: comparative). C-1 C-2 C-4 C-5 Composition No. INCI (comp.) (comp.) C-3 (comp.) (comp.) Ingredients Nomenclature wt.-% wt.-% wt.-% wt.-% wt.-% A) Sotfisan 100 Hydrogenated 38.50 38.50 38.50 38.50 38.50 Coco-Glycerides Miglyol 812 Caprylic/Capric 20.50 20.50 20.50 20.50 20.50 Triglycerides Tegin Glyceryl Stearate 10 10 10 10 10 SE Beeswax Cera Alba 18.50 18.50 18.50 18.50 18.50 Glycerin Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Propanediol Zemea Propanediol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 B) Mineral blend — — 5.00 — — Talc — 5.00 — — — SRCC — — — 5.00 — NGCC — — — — 5.00 C) Lemon Essential Citrus Limon 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Oil Peel Oil Lavender Essential Lavandula 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 Oil Angustifolia Oil 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00

4. Results

[0274] FIGS. 1 and 4 clearly demonstrate that the inventive skin cream composition B-3 enhances sensorial attributes like spreadbility, slipperiness and softness compared to the reference composition B-1 and the comparative composition B-2. Furthermore, FIG. 1 shows that the inventive composition B-3 reduces stickiness, greasiness and bleaching effect compared to the talc-containing comparative composition B-2 and the reference composition B-1. It can also be seen from FIGS. 1 and 4 that the spreadbility, slipperiness and softness of the inventive composition B-3 containing a combination of SRCC and NGCC is improved compared to the compositions B-4 and B-5, which contain only either surface-reacted calcium carbonate or ground calcium carbonate.

[0275] FIGS. 2 and 5 validate the positive effect of the inventive mineral blend in the deodorant stick (see inventive composition C-3) on softness and opacity compared to the comparative composition C-2 and the reference composition C-1. Furthermore, FIG. 2 shows that the inventive composition C-3 also reduces stickiness, greasiness and bleaching effect on the skin compared to talc-containing comparative composition C-2 and reference composition C-1. It can also be seen from FIGS. 2 and 5 that the penetration, slipperiness and softness of the inventive composition C-3 containing a combination of SRCC and NGCC is improved compared to the compositions C-4 and C-5, which contain only either surface-reacted calcium carbonate or ground calcium carbonate.

[0276] FIG. 3 clearly demonstrates the inventive base compositions A-3 and A-4 have a better coverage value than comparative compositions A-1 and A-2.