METHOD FOR COSMETIC TREATMENT BY COMBINED ILLUMINATION AND APPLICATION OF A COMPOSITION COMPRISING NIACINAMIDE, AND ASSOCIATED DEVICE
20230233439 · 2023-07-27
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
C12Y401/99003
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
A61K8/675
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
Abstract
The non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method includes at least: —applying an active composition including at least niacinamide onto the skin of a subject, and—illuminating the skin using at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of between 620 and 690 nanometres, preferably 660 nanometres, the illumination being carried out before, at the same time as or after the application of the composition. A device is configured for implementing such a method.
Claims
1. A nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment process comprising: applying to the skin of an individual an active composition comprising at least niacinamide, and illuminating the skin with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 620 to 690 nanometers, the illumination being performed before, simultaneously with or after the application of the composition.
2. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the active composition also comprises photolyase.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the illumination of the skin is also performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 410 to 470 nanometers.
4. The process as claimed in claim 3, wherein the illumination of the skin is also performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 750 to 810 nanometers.
5. The process as claimed in claim 3, wherein the illumination of the skin is also performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 910 to 970 nanometers.
6. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein a mass percentage of niacinamide in the composition is in a range from 0.5% to 10%.
7. A nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment device comprising: means for applying to the skin of an individual an active composition comprising at least niacinamide, and means for illuminating the skin with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 620 to 690 nanometers, the means for illuminating and applying the active composition being configured so that the illumination can be performed before, simultaneously with or after the application of the composition.
8. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 7, wherein the active composition also comprises photolyase.
9. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 7, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 410 to 470 nanometers.
10. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 7, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 750 to 810 nanometers.
11. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 7, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength in a range of from 910 to 970 nanometers.
12. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 7, wherein the at least one light source of the means for illuminating the skin emits at a wavelength of about 660 nanometers.
13. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 12, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 440 nanometers.
14. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 13, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 440 nanometers.
15. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 14, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 780 nanometers.
16. The cosmetic treatment device as claimed in claim 15, wherein the means for illuminating the skin also include at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 940 nanometers.
17. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the illumination of the skin is performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 440 nanometers.
18. The process as claimed in claim 17, wherein the illumination of the skin is also performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 440 nanometers.
19. The process as claimed in claim 18, wherein the illumination of the skin is also performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 780 nanometers.
20. The process as claimed in claim 19, wherein the illumination of the skin is also performed with at least one light source emitting at a wavelength of about 940 nanometers.
Description
PRESENTATION OF THE FIGURES
[0042] Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge clearly from the description given below, by way of indication and not in any way limiting, with reference to the attached figures, among which:
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0055] The nontherapeutic cosmetic treatment process of the invention essentially comprises a step of applying to the skin of an individual an active composition comprising at least niacinamide as active agent and illuminating, preferably simultaneously, this same area of the skin with a light source emitting in the red spectrum at a wavelength of about 660 nm, considering a half-band width of 30 nm. When the illumination is performed before or after the application of the composition, a maximum time between the illumination and the application of the niacinamide of 30 minutes, preferably 15 minutes, is considered.
[0056] The cosmetic treatment process of the invention is applied exclusively to skin free of open wounds or of any other pathology. The process of the invention is applied to healthy skin, and more particularly to skin that shows signs of aging essentially due to its exposure to the sun.
[0057] in vitro tests of measuring the antiinflammatory effect on epidermal cells and the antiaging effect on these cells by the process of the invention were performed. The inflammation of the cells and the measurement of the antiaging effect are based on the irradiation of a cell culture with a combination of UVA and UVB. These cells are treated either with niacinamide alone, or with illumination at 660 nm alone, or with the combination of the application of niacinamide and illumination at 660 nm according to the process of the invention and according to the following protocol: [0058] at time T−24 h, a treatment is applied, it being understood that this treatment is one of the three comparative treatments mentioned previously, [0059] at time T0, UVA and UVB irradiation is performed, followed by the same treatment as at T−24 h, [0060] at time T+24 h, the same treatment is applied, and [0061] at T+48 h, the supernatant is collected.
[0062] Pure niacinamide at a concentration of 0.4 mg/mL or 1.2 mg/mL is used.
[0063] For the treatments inducing illumination at 660 nm, 10 different programs are evaluated. These programs are defined in Table 1 below.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Parameters associated with each illumination program With reference to the parameters indicated in the above table, the following clarifications are made. The irradiation performed is in pulsed mode and has a rectangular signal. The period T of the signal corresponds to the sum of the period T.sub.on during which the signal is at its maximum, and of the period T.sub.off during which the signal is zero. The irradiance corresponds to the power density per unit area during the period T.sub.on. The fluence is the amount of energy per unit area during the period T.sub.on. The duty cycle corresponds to the ratio between the period T.sub.on and the period T. Program 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Irradiance 4.0 26.6 10.6 10.6 2.7 10.6 10.6 5.3 10.6 10.6 (mW/cm.sup.2) Duty 50 50 50 50 50 20 71.4 50 50 50 cycle (%) Period T 14 14 70 350 14 15 14 14 14 14 (ms) Fluence 30 199 80 80 80 32 114 80 80 199 (mJ/cm.sup.2) Time (s) 15 15 15 15 60 15 15 30 15 37.5
[0064] On conclusion of the protocol defined previously, three types of supernatants are obtained: the first treated only with niacinamide, the second subjected to illumination according to one of the 10 illumination programs at 660 nm, and the third subjected to the combination of niacinamide and illumination according to one of the 10 illumination programs at 660 nm.
[0065] Attention is primarily focused on the antiinflammatory effect of the process of the invention on epidermal cells, the keratinocytes. UV irradiation induces inflammation of the keratinocytes. The reason for this is that UV rays are highly energetic rays that are capable of producing free radicals in the cells by breaking covalent bonds between molecules. Free radicals are reactive and induce an inflammatory cascade characterized by the production of proinflammatory proteins (p53, pro-opiomelanocortin (POMC), interleukins, etc.) which can be measured in the cell supernatant.
[0066] The common cytokines with a broad spectrum of inflammations are the interleukins 6 and 8 (IL-6 and IL-8), which are chosen as measurement parameters, it being understood that UVA and UVB induce damage notably on keratinocytes, which produce more interleukins 6 and 8 than do cells not exposed to UV.
[0067] According to the protocol, at T+48 h, the cell supernatant is collected and the concentrations of interleukins 6 and 8 are measured and compared to the concentrations of interleukins 6 and 8 produced by cells exposed to UV and not subjected to any of the three abovementioned treatments (UV control) and to untreated and non-irradiated cells (non-irradiated control). A degree of protection of the treated cells relative to the UV control is evaluated according to the following formula:
[0068] Non-irradiated cells show 100% protection and irradiated cells show 0% protection. A negative result indicates an increase in the concentration of IL-6 or IL-8 and a positive result indicates a decrease in the concentration of IL-6 or IL-8, illustrating protection of the cell or faster repair of the UV-induced damage. A protection level of 100% ideally corresponds to the total suppression of the deleterious effects of UV on the skin cells.
[0069] The results for interleukin-6 are shown in
[0070] In these figures, reference 1 corresponds to treatment with niacinamide alone at a concentration of 1.2 mg/ml, the references 2 correspond to treatment by illumination at 660 nm alone for each of the 10 illumination programs indicated in Table 1, and the references 3 correspond to treatment according to the process of the invention combining the effects of niacinamide at a concentration of 1.2 mg/ml and illumination at 660 nm for each of the 10 illumination programs indicated in Table 1.
[0071] It is seen that, irrespective of the illumination program, the process of the invention has a beneficial effect on the cells exposed to UV relative to the cells exposed to UV and/or which have been subjected only to niacinamide. These beneficial effects are particularly visible on the interleukin-8 concentration measurements. It is also seen that although some illumination programs associated with a treatment by illumination alone at 660 nm also increase the protection of the cells relative to the application of niacinamide alone, the process of the invention, for all the illumination programs, ensures a much greater protection of the skin cells than for these treatments of illumination alone at 660 nm.
[0072] Attention is now focused on skin aging, known as “photoaging”, induced by UV exposure. One of the parameters of cutaneous aging observed clinically is the appearance of wrinkles associated in part with a decrease in collagen production by the cells of the dermis, the fibroblasts. This decrease may be accompanied by an increased production of metalloproteases (MMP), which are responsible for the degradation of collagen fibers in the dermis. The production of procollagen-1 produced by fibroblasts is measured in the supernatants obtained from the previously defined protocol in which the cells were illuminated either without any other treatment or in combination with niacinamide at a concentration of 0.4 mg/ml, and compared with treatment with niacinamide alone at a concentration of 0.4 mg/ml.
[0073] The results are shown in
[0074] Increased production of procollagen-1 induced by the treatment via the process of the invention is observed, compared with a treatment with niacinamide, and treatment with illumination at 660 nm alone.
[0075] The results presented previously demonstrate the unexpected synergy between niacinamide and illumination at a wavelength of 660 nm on the antiinflammatory effect of the process on keratinocytes and the increase in the production of procollagen-1, thus illustrating the skin-protecting and antiaging effects of the cosmetic treatment process of the invention.
[0076] This combination between the application of niacinamide and illumination with “red” light at a wavelength centered on 660 nm, i.e. between 620 and 690 nanometers, is not demonstrated in the abovementioned prior art. This combination is of a synergistic nature with regard to its effects previously demonstrated with reference notably to
[0077] The cosmetic treatment process of the invention may also comprise the application of another active agent, photolyase, and additional illumination at a wavelength of 440 nm, considering a half-band width of 30 nm. Other wavelengths and other active agents may also be envisaged, as will be seen later.
[0078] in-vitro tests are performed for a treatment according to the process of the invention consisting of the application of a composition comprising niacinamide and photolyase, and illumination at 660 nm, 440 nm, and 780 nm or 940 nm. All these wavelengths are considered with a half-band width of 30 nm. Attention is more particularly focused on the addition of the combination of photolyase/illumination at 440 nm which results in a change in the three-dimensional structure of photolyase without any other modification of its chemical structure.
[0079] As regards the illumination applied during these tests, three different programs are evaluated. For each program, three wavelengths are applied together as shown in Table 2 below.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Parameters associated with each illumination program Program 1 Program 2 Program 3 30 seconds 15 seconds 15 seconds Ir- Ir- Ir- radiance Fluence radiance Fluence radiance Fluence (mW/ (mJ/ (mW/ (mJ/ (mW/ (mJ/ λ cm.sup.2) cm.sup.2) cm.sup.2) cm.sup.2) cm.sup.2) cm.sup.2) 440 3.8 57 3.8 29 7.4 56 660 5.3 80 5.3 40 10.6 80 780 — — — — 4 30 940 1.5 23 1.5 11 — — TOTAL 10.6 159 10.6 80 22 165
[0080] Measurements of DNA damage by UV exposure are made by means of the quantification of thymine dimers. The protocol consists in observing and measuring the area of thymine dimers on skin explants exposed to UVA and UVB without treatment, with niacinamide and photolyase, with illumination as indicated in the three programs in Table 2 above, and with a combination of niacinamide and photolyase application and illumination as indicated in Table 2 above.
[0081] The results are shown in
[0082] In
[0083] With reference to
[0084] The results presented show a significant reduction in the density of thymine dimers in a skin explant exposed to UV light and treated via the process of the invention, compared to treatment with niacinamide and photolyase and exposure to illumination alone. These results thus illustrate the ability of the process of the invention to repair cosmetic damage caused by UV exposure, and more generally, to regenerate the skin in order to improve its appearance.
[0085] Clinical tests were conducted on 33 women from 35 to 45 years old with phototypes I to III. For 28 days, these women received the treatment according to the process of the invention 6 days out of 7. The illumination corresponds to program 3 presented in Table 2. The composition applied includes, in mass percentages, 5% niacinamide (Niacinamide PC), 0.005% photolyase (Photosomes V), 0.0005% acetyl hexapeptide-8, 0.012% Laminaria algal extract, 0.1% sodium hyaluronate, 0.076% Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract, 0.016% Kappaphycus alvarezii algal extract, 0.2% caffeine, 0.2% vitamin C and 0.2% vitamin E. The treatment is performed by simultaneous application of the composition and illumination according to program 3. The treatment according to the invention is performed on one half of the face on six areas from the chin to the forehead. The other half of the face is treated with a placebo, the composition of which is a moisturizing cream. The choice of the treated side is determined randomly. Each area is treated for 15 seconds according to program 3 in Table 3; the face treatment is thus completed in 3 minutes.
[0086] The effects of the treatment after 28 days, in comparison with the first day of treatment, on wrinkles, dermal density, smoothing effect and luminosity of the complexion are evaluated.
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[0088] It is seen that the area of the face treated via the process of the invention in the two representative individuals (
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[0091] It is seen that the placebo worsens the wrinkles by an average of 4%, whereas the treatment of the invention reduces the severity of the wrinkles by an average of 6%.
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[0093] Finally, some individuals in the study noted an improvement in the uniformity of the complexion, notably by a reduction in the intensity of spots resulting from exposure of the skin to the sun.
[0094] The cosmetic treatment process of the invention thus makes it possible to improve the visible appearance of the skin by countering its aging, as demonstrated by the results presented previously, and is an effective antiaging cosmetic treatment.
[0095] The invention also relates to a device for performing the process of the invention. The device of the invention is described with reference to
[0096] The device 10 comprises a case 11 of cylindrical general shape, which includes an electroluminescent device 12 and a removable capsule 13 for applying the composition to the skin. The walls of the device have an embossed part which is exclusively of esthetic nature. The electroluminescent device 12 mainly has a series of light-emitting diodes (LEDs) 9 distributed regularly and circumferentially around the main axis XX′ on the side of a first end 10a of the device 10 and mounted on a dedicated electronic board 14. Each LED 9 is surmounted by a lens 15 forming a light guide and ensuring the focusing of the light emitted by the LEDs 9 in a controlled direction as will be explained hereinbelow. In a preferential embodiment, nine LEDs 9 are arranged circumferentially on the electronic board 14. The LEDs are electrically connected to a battery 16 located in the handle of the device 10 on the side of its opposite end 10b.
[0097] With reference to
[0098] With reference to
[0099] When the capsule 13 is inserted in the reception housing 17, the bottom wall 24 comes into contact with a piston 26 whose axial displacement in the direction of the capsule 13 is ensured by a motor 27 connected to the battery 16. This axial displacement of the piston 26, which is not shown, thus pushes the bottom wall 24 of the capsule 13 toward the ball 21 along a defined path corresponding to the dispensing of a dose of composition, which leads to the release of the composition contained in the reservoir 23 onto the surface of this dispensing ball 21, said ball being intended to roll onto the surface of the skin to be treated and thus to apply the composition onto the skin. At the next use, the piston 26 again drives the bottom wall 24 in axial displacement toward the dispensing ball 21 on a new stroke to deliver a new dose of composition. By way of example, the capsule may be configured to deliver seven doses of composition corresponding to one week's worth of treatment.
[0100] A control system not shown is used to control the illumination by the LEDs and the actuation of the piston and the delivery of the composition onto the skin. Preferentially, the illumination and the delivery of the composition are controlled simultaneously.
[0101] A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the device of the invention according to the process of the invention applied. For example, for a composition including niacinamide and illumination at 660 nm, the LEDs 9 or some of the LEDs 9 are configured to emit at 660 nm and the composition contained in the reservoir 23 of the capsule 13 comprises niacinamide. For a process of the invention for which the composition comprises niacinamide and photolyase and illumination at 660 nm and 440 nm, the LEDS 9 or some of the LEDs 9 are configured to emit at 660 nm and 440 nm, respectively, and the composition contained in reservoir 23 comprises niacinamide and photolyase. Finally, when the process of the invention provides for the composition as presented previously in the context of the clinical tests and illumination at 660 nm, 440 nm and 780 nm, the composition contained in reservoir 23 comprises the stated active agents and the LEDS 9 or some of the LEDs 9 are configured to emit at 660 nm and 440 nm, respectively. This is likewise the case when the illumination provides a wavelength of 940 nm.
[0102] By way of example,