POLYOL ESTERS FROM BIOBASED FEEDSTOCKS FOR USE AS EMOLLIENT IN PERSONAL CARE APPLICATIONS
20230233430 · 2023-07-27
Inventors
- Normawati SAMSODIN (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
- Sara SHAHRUDDIN (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
- Navin SHARMA KARAM CHAND (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
- Noor Fadhila Syahida GHAZALI (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
- Nur Amalina SAMSUDIN (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
- Nazri MUSLIM (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
- Adaham ISHAK M (Kuala Lumpur, MY)
Cpc classification
C07C67/08
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
C07C69/34
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
C07C67/08
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
C07C69/34
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
A61K8/375
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
C07C67/08
CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
Abstract
Provided are personal care compositions comprising ester polyol esters, ester polyol esters, manufacturing methods thereof, and the use of ester polyol esters in personal care compositions.
Claims
1. A personal care composition comprising an ester polyol ester of formula Ia, and an ester polyol ester of formula Ib ##STR00031## wherein in formula Ia: each R.sub.1a is independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms; each R.sub.2a is independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms substituted by one or more R.sub.1a′C(O)O— groups; ##STR00032## wherein in formula Ib: L is a linear alkylene chain with from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; each R.sub.2b is independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms substituted by one or more R.sub.1a″C(O)O— groups; and each R.sub.1a′ and R.sub.1a″ are independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms.
2. The personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester polyol ester of formula Ia is an ester polyol ester of formula Ic: ##STR00033## wherein each R.sub.1c is independently the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids, and each R.sub.2c is independently a moiety formed by removing a primary hydroxyl group from a primary polyol selected from the group consisting of: glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, bis(1,2-propanediol), 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (2-MePG), trimethylolpropane (TMP), di-trimethylolpropane (Di-TMP), neopentyl glycol (NPG), pentaerythritol (PE), dipentaerythritol (diPE) and sorbitol, wherein said moiety is bonded to the rest of the molecule at the location of the removed primary hydroxyl group, and each remaining hydroxyl functional group in said moiety is esterified with a monocarboxylic acid of formula R.sub.1c—COOH.
3. The personal care composition according to claim 2, wherein each R.sub.1c is independently the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, and lauric acids.
4. (canceled)
5. A personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein ester polyol ester of formula Ib is an ester polyol ester of formula Id: ##STR00034## wherein: L is a linear alkylene chain with from 2 to 14 carbon atoms; each R.sub.2d is independently a moiety formed by removing a primary hydroxyl group from a primary polyol selected from the group consisting of: glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, bis(1,2-propanediol), 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (2-MePG), trimethylolpropane (TMP), di-trimethylolpropane (Di-TMP), neopentyl glycol (NPG), pentaerythritol (PE), dipentaerythritol (diPE) and sorbitol, wherein said moiety is bonded to the rest of the molecule at the location of the removed primary hydroxyl group, and each remaining hydroxyl functional group in said moiety is esterified with a monocarboxylic acid of formula R.sub.1c—COOH; each R.sub.1c is independently the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids.
6. The personal care composition according to claim 5, wherein L is a linear alkylene chain with from 4 to 12 carbon atoms.
7. (canceled)
8. The personal care composition according to claim 2, wherein R.sub.2c is a moiety having the formula: ##STR00035## where the dashed line represents the point of attachment to the rest of the molecule, and wherein each R.sub.1c independently represents the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids.
9. The personal care composition according to claim 2, wherein R.sub.2c is a moiety having the formula: ##STR00036## where the dashed line represents the point of attachment to the rest of the molecule, and wherein each R.sub.1c independently represents the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids.
10. The personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester polyol ester of formula Ia is an ester polyol ester of formula IIa, and/or the ester polyol ester of formula Ib is an ester polyol ester of formula IIb: ##STR00037## wherein in formula Ha each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain; ##STR00038## wherein in formula IIb: each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain; and n is an integer of from 6 to 10.
11. The personal care composition according to claim 10, wherein in formula IIa and/or IIb: (i) each A independently represents a C.sub.6-8 alkyl group; or (ii) each A independently represents the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic and stearic acids.
12. The personal care composition according to claim 10, wherein n is an integer of from 7 to 9.
13. (canceled)
14. The personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester polyol ester of formula Ia is an ester polyol ester of formula IIc, and/or the ester polyol ester of formula Ib is an ester polyol ester of formula IId: ##STR00039## wherein in formula IIa each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain; ##STR00040## wherein in formula IIb: each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain; and n is an integer of from 6 to 10.
15. The personal care composition according to claim 14, wherein in formula IIc and/or IId: (i) each A independently represents a C.sub.6-8 alkyl group; or (ii) each A independently represents the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic and stearic acids.
16. (canceled)
17. The personal care composition according to claim 14, wherein: (i) each A represents a C.sub.7 alkyl group and n is 8; or (ii) the compound of formula IIc is trimethylolpropane triisostearate.
18. The personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of ester polyol ester of formula Ia to ester polyol ester of formula Ib is selected from: (a) from 95:5 to 30:70; (b) from 90:10 to 80:20; (c) from 60:40 to 70:30; or (d) from 40:60 to 50:50.
19. (canceled)
20. The personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester polyol esters of formula Ia or Ib are present in the personal care composition in the ratio produced by a reaction between: a polyol of formula R.sub.2a—OH or R.sub.2b—OH; a monocarboxylic acid of formula R.sub.1a—COOH; and a dicarboxylic acid of formula HOOC-L-COOH, wherein the molar ratio of monocarboxylic acid to dicarboxylic acid in the reaction mixture is from 99.99:0.01 to 99:1, and the ratio of hydroxyl groups to carboxyl groups in the reaction mixture is from about 0.940 to about 0.955.
21. (canceled)
22. (canceled)
23. The personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein one or more of the following apply: (a) the total combined mass percent of ester polyol ester or formula Ia and ester polyol ester of formula Ib in the personal care composition is from 0.5 to 65 wt. %; (b) the ester polyol esters of formula Ia or Ib are derived from a bio-based feedstock; or (c) the personal care composition is an emollient composition.
24. (canceled)
25. (canceled)
26. Use of an ester polyol ester as described in claim 1 in a personal care composition.
27. A compound of formula IIa, IIb, IIc or IId: ##STR00041## wherein each A independently represents a C.sub.6-8 alkyl group and n is an integer of from 6 to 10.
28. A compound according to claim 27, which has the structure: ##STR00042##
29. (canceled)
30. (canceled)
31. A method for preparing an ester polyol ester, the method comprising preparing a reaction mixture comprising: a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, trimethylolpropane and a combination thereof; sebacic acid; and octanoic acid, wherein the method comprises a step of esterifying the glycerin with sebacic acid and octanoic acid, wherein the reaction mixture has a hydroxyl group to carboxyl group ratio (HCR) corresponding to a ratio of moles of hydroxyl groups to moles of carboxyl groups, and the HCR is less than about 1, and wherein the molar ratio of octanoic acid to sebacic acid is from 99.99:0.01 to 99:1.
32-34. (canceled)
Description
DRAWINGS
[0093]
[0094]
[0095]
[0096]
DESCRIPTION
[0097] The invention provides a personal care composition comprising an ester polyol ester of formula Ia, and an ester polyol ester of formula Ib
##STR00015##
[0098] wherein in formula Ia: [0099] each Ria is independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms; [0100] each R.sub.2a is independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms substituted by one or more R.sub.1a C(O)O— groups;
##STR00016##
[0101] wherein in formula Ib: [0102] L is a linear alkylene chain with from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; [0103] each R.sub.2b is independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms substituted by one or more R.sub.1a C(O)O— groups; and [0104] each R.sub.1a′ and R.sub.1a″ are independently a linear or branched alkyl chain having from 1 to 17 carbon atoms.
[0105] In embodiments herein, the term “comprising” may be interpreted as requiring the features mentioned, but not limiting the presence of other features. Alternatively, the word “comprising” may also relate to the situation where only the components/features listed are intended to be present (e.g. the word “comprising” may be replaced by the phrases “consists of” or “consists essentially of”). It is explicitly contemplated that both the broader and narrower interpretations can be applied to all aspects and embodiments of the present invention. In other words, the word “comprising” and synonyms thereof may be replaced by the phrase “consisting of” or the phrase “consists essentially of” or synonyms thereof and vice versa.
[0106] In embodiments herein, the term “ester polyol ester” means a compound formed from the esterification of at least two hydroxyl groups in a polyol. In embodiments of the invention, the ester polyol esters have at least 90% esterification of polyol hydroxyl groups, such as at least 95%, at least 99%, at least 99.5% such as about 100% esterification of polyol hydroxyl groups. The term “polyol ester” may be used interchangeably herein with “ester polyol ester”.
[0107] In embodiments herein, the term “alkyl” means a monovalent group of formula —C.sub.nH.sub.2n+1. Alkyl groups may be linear or branched. In some embodiments of the invention, alkyl groups may be linear. In other embodiments of the invention, alkyl groups may be branched.
[0108] In embodiments herein, the term “alkylene” means a divalent group of formula —C.sub.nH.sub.2n—. Alkylene groups may be linear or branched. In some embodiments of the invention, alkylene groups are typically linear.
[0109] The terms “formulation” and “composition” may be used interchangeably herein.
[0110] In some embodiments of the invention, the ester polyol ester of formula Ia may be an ester polyol ester of formula Ic:
##STR00017##
[0111] wherein each R.sub.1c is independently the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids, and each R.sub.2c is independently a moiety formed by removing a primary hydroxyl group from a primary polyol selected from the group consisting of: glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, bis(1,2-propanediol), 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (2-MePG), trimethylolpropane (TMP), di-trimethylolpropane (Di-TMP), neopentyl glycol (NPG), pentaerythritol (PE), dipentaerythritol (diPE) and sorbitol, wherein said moiety is bonded to the rest of the molecule at the location of the removed primary hydroxyl group, and each remaining hydroxyl functional group in said moiety is esterified with a monocarboxylic acid of formula R.sub.1c—COOH.
[0112] In some aspects of these embodiments, each R.sub.1c may independently be the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, and lauric acids. In particular aspects of these embodiments, each R.sub.1c may independently be the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of octanoic acid and decanoic acid. For example, R.sub.1c may be the alkyl chain of octanoic acid.
[0113] In some embodiments of the invention, the ester polyol ester of formula Ib may be an ester polyol ester of formula Id:
##STR00018##
[0114] wherein L is a linear alkylene chain with from 2 to 14 carbon atoms;
[0115] each R.sub.2d is independently a moiety formed by removing a primary hydroxyl group from a primary polyol selected from the group consisting of: glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, bis(1,2-propanediol), 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (2-MePG), trimethylolpropane (TMP), di-trimethylolpropane (Di-TMP), neopentyl glycol (NPG), pentaerythritol (PE), dipentaerythritol (diPE) and sorbitol, wherein said moiety is bonded to the rest of the molecule at the location of the removed primary hydroxyl group, and each remaining hydroxyl functional group in said moiety is esterified with a monocarboxylic acid of formula R.sub.1c—COOH;
[0116] each R.sub.1c is independently the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. In some aspects of these embodiments, each R.sub.1c may independently be the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of octanoic acid and decanoic acid.
[0117] In some aspects of these embodiments, L may be a linear alkylene chain with from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, for example a C.sub.8 linear alkylene chain.
[0118] In some aspects of the above embodiments of the invention, R.sub.2c and/or R.sub.2d may be a moiety having the formula:
##STR00019##
[0119] where the dashed line represents the point of attachment to the rest of the molecule, and wherein each R.sub.1c independently represents the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. In some aspects of these embodiments, each R.sub.1c may independently be the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of octanoic acid and decanoic acid.
[0120] In some other aspects of the above embodiments of the invention, R.sub.2c and/or R.sub.2d may be a moiety having the formula:
##STR00020##
[0121] where the dashed line represents the point of attachment to the rest of the molecule, and wherein each R.sub.1c independently represents the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of: acetic, propanoic, butyric, pentanoic, hexanoic, nonanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, decanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. In some aspects of these embodiments, each R.sub.1c may independently be the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of octanoic acid and decanoic acid.
[0122] In some embodiments of the invention, the ester polyol ester of formula Ia may be an ester polyol ester of formula IIa, and/or the ester polyol ester of formula Ib is an ester polyol ester of formula IIb:
##STR00021##
[0123] wherein in formula IIa each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain;
##STR00022##
[0124] wherein in formula IIb:
[0125] each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain; and
[0126] n is an integer of from 6 to 10.
[0127] In some aspects of these embodiments, each A may independently represent a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, for example a linear C.sub.6-8 alkyl group, such as a linear C.sub.7 alkyl group. In some aspects of these embodiments, n is an integer of from 7 to 9, such as 8. In a particular aspect of these embodiments, each A represents a C.sub.7 alkyl group and n is 8. A particular example of a compound of formula IIb that may be mentioned herein is capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer.
[0128] In other aspects, each A may independently represent a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain, optionally the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic and stearic acids, more optionally the alkyl chain of isostearic or stearic acid, further optionally the alkyl chain of isostearic acid. In these aspects, n is an integer of from 6 to 10, optionally an integer of from 7 to 9, such as 8.
[0129] In some embodiments of the invention the ester polyol ester of formula Ia may be an ester polyol ester of formula IIc, and/or the ester polyol ester of formula Ib may be an ester polyol ester of formula IId:
##STR00023##
[0130] wherein in formula IIc each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain;
##STR00024##
[0131] wherein in formula IId:
[0132] each A independently represents a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, or a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain; and
[0133] n is an integer of from 6 to 10.
[0134] In some aspects of these embodiments, each A may independently represent a linear C.sub.5-9 alkyl chain, for example a linear C.sub.6-8 alkyl group, such as a linear C.sub.7 alkyl group. In some aspects of these embodiments, n is an integer of from 7 to 9, such as 8. In a particular aspect of these embodiments, each A represents a C.sub.7 alkyl group and n is 8.
[0135] In other aspects, each A may independently represent a linear or branched C.sub.14-17 alkyl chain, optionally the alkyl chain of a monocarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of palmitic and stearic acids, more optionally the alkyl chain of isostearic or stearic acid, further optionally the alkyl chain of isostearic acid. In these aspects, n is an integer of from 6 to 10, optionally an integer of from 7 to 9, such as 8.
[0136] A particular example of a compound of formula IIc that may be mentioned herein is trimethylolpropane triisostearate.
[0137] The weight ratio of the ester polyol ester of formula Ia, Ic, IIa or IIc to ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id, IIb or IId may be from 95:5 to 30:70. The particular weight ratio will influence the properties of the mixture of ester polyol esters, such as the viscosity and surface tension. The ratio of ester polyol esters may be varied to provide the desired physical properties for the personal care composition, which will depend on the type of personal care composition. For example, as will be appreciated by a person skilled in the art, the required physical properties for a hair wax are different to those for a moisturising cream.
[0138] Particular weight ratios of ester polyol esters that may be useful in the present invention are set out below. [0139] (a) The weight ratio of ester polyol ester of formula Ia, Ic or IIa to ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id or IIb is from 90:10 to 80:20. [0140] (b) The weight ratio of ester polyol ester of formula Ia, Ic or IIa to ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id or IIb is from 60:40 to 70:30. [0141] (c) The weight ratio of ester polyol ester of formula Ia, Ic or IIa to ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id or IIb is from 40:60 to 50:50.
[0142] Typically, the ratio of ester polyol esters in a personal care composition will correspond to the ratio in which they are produced during the production method. The ratio of ester polyol ester of formula Ia, Ic, IIa or IIc to ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id, IIb or IId produced by the reaction will depend on the ratio of monocarboxylic acid (e.g. octanoic acid) to dicarboxylic acid (e.g. sebacic acid) in the reaction mixture. The greater the amount of dicarboxylic acid, the greater the proportion of ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id, IIb or IId. Since the presence of dicarboxylic acid can result in the formation of oligomers (and if present in sufficiently high amounts, polymers) which are undesirable in an emollient, the concentration of dicarboxylic acid is typically kept low. For example, the molar ratio of monocarboxylic acid to dicarboxylic acid in the reaction mixture is typically from 99.99:0.01 to 99:1 (such as about 99.97:0.03 to about 99.7:0.3). Specific molar ratios that may be mentioned herein include about 99.95:0.05, about 99.875:0.125, and about 99.78:0.22.
[0143] Therefore, in some embodiments of the invention, the the ester polyol esters of formula Ia, Ib, Ic, Id, IIa, IIb, IIc or IId are present in the personal care composition in the ratio produced by a reaction between: [0144] a polyol of formula R.sub.2a—OH or R.sub.2b—OH; [0145] a monocarboxylic acid of formula R.sub.1a—COOH; and [0146] a dicarboxylic acid of formula HOOC-L-COOH,
[0147] wherein the molar ratio of monocarboxylic acid to dicarboxylic acid in the reaction mixture is from 99.99:0.01 to 99:1 (such as about 99.97:0.03 to about 99.7:0.3, for example about 99.95:0.05, about 99.875:0.125, or about 99.78:0.22), and
[0148] the ratio of hydroxyl groups to carboxyl groups in the reaction mixture is from about 0.940 to about 0.955.
[0149] In some embodiments of the invention, the reaction to produce the ester polyol esters is quenched when the acid value reaches a value below 20 mgKOH/g, and the hydroxyl value reaches a value below 5 mgKOH/g. This has the effect of stopping the reaction when the amount of free acid and hydroxyl groups is low, and the reaction has almost run to completion. This may help to reduce the formation of unwanted side products.
[0150] The mixture of ester polyol esters produced by the reaction will have a dynamic viscosity. This is a key property that influences how the personal care composition will feel on a person's skin, and can be adjusted by varying the carbon chain lengths and ratio of mono-acid to diacid in the reaction mixture. In some embodiments of the invention, ester polyol esters of formula Ia, Ib, Ic, Id, IIa, IIb, IIc or IId produced by said reaction has a dynamic viscosity at 25° C. of from 20 to 90 cps. Particular dynamic viscosities at 25° C. that may be mentioned herein include 20-30 cps; 35-45 cps; and 80-90 cps.
[0151] The amount of ester polyol ester in a personal care composition will depend on the intended use of the personal care composition. In his context, “amount of ester polyol ester” refers to the total amount of ester polyol ester of formula Ia, Ib, Ic, Id, IIa, IIb, IIc and IId in the composition. Typically, the amount of ester polyol ester in the personal care composition may be from 0.5 to 65 wt. %. In some embodiments of the invention that may be mentioned herein, the amount of ester polyol ester in the personal care composition may be from about 0.5 to about 15 wt. %, such as 0.5 to 12 wt. %. Particular personal care compositions according to the invention are discussed in the below Examples.
[0152] As mentioned herein, an advantage of the invention is that the ester polyol esters may be produced from a variety of feedstocks. For example, they may be produced from renewable biobased feedstocks. They may also be produced from synthetic or non-biobased feedstocks. In some embodiments of the invention, particularly when longer chain acids are desired, the ester polyol esters may be formed from a biobased feedstock comprising palm acids, which may be derived from palm oil.
[0153] The personal care composition of the invention may be any personal care composition in which the ester polyol esters may be useful. For example, the personal care composition may be a haircare composition or a skincare composition, especially an emollient composition. Examples of haircare compositions include a hair mask, a hair wax, a shampoo, and a hair conditioner. Examples of a skincare composition include a body wash, a skin or body lotion, and a body milk. Any of the personal care compositions of the invention may be optimised for healthy adult skin, baby skin, or other sensitive skin. In particular, a body wash, skin or body lotion, shampoo and body milk may be desirably optimised for baby skin or other sensitive skin such as on a user's face. A person skilled in the art will appreciate that some personal care compositions may be suitable for more than one use, and may function as both a haircare and skincare composition, or have dual functionality within the class of haircare or skincare compositions. Examples of dual functionality personal care compositions include a combined hair and body wash, and a combined “two in one” shampoo and conditioner composition.
[0154] For the avoidance of doubt, when any numerical range is used herein, the higher and lower values of any related ranges may be combined to provide new ranges, which are all specifically contemplated herein. For example, the ester polyol esters used in the personal care compositions may have a dynamic viscosity at 25° C. selected from any one of the below ranges: [0155] from 20 to 90 cps, from 20 to 80 cps, from 20 to 45 cps, from 20 to 35 cps, from 20 to 30 cps; [0156] from 30 to 90 cps, from 30 to 80 cps, from 30 to 45 cps, from 30 to 35 cps; [0157] from 35 to 90 cps, from 35 to 80 cps, from 35 to 45 cps; [0158] from 45 to 90 cps, from 45 to 80 cps; [0159] from 80 to 90 cps.
[0160] The invention also provides the use of an ester polyol ester as disclosed herein, in a personal care composition. The use may comprise the use of a first ester polyol ester or formula Ia, Ic, IIa or IIc and second ester polyol ester of formula Ib, Id, IIb or IId.
[0161] The invention also provides certain compounds of formula IIa, IIb, IIc and IId. In particular the invention provides a compound of formula IIa or IIc:
##STR00025##
[0162] wherein each A independently represents a C.sub.6-8 alkyl group.
[0163] In some embodiments of the invention, the compound of formula IIa may have the formula
##STR00026##
[0164] In some embodiments of the invention, the compound of formula IIc may have the formula
##STR00027##
[0165] The invention provides a compound of formula IIb or IId:
##STR00028##
[0166] wherein each A independently represents a C.sub.6-8 alkyl group and n is an integer of from 6 to 10.
[0167] In some embodiments of the invention, the compound of formula IIb has the structure
##STR00029##
[0168] In some embodiments of the invention, the compound of formula IId has the structure
##STR00030##
[0169] The invention also provides a method for preparing an ester polyol ester (such as an ester polyol ester of formula IIa-IId above), the method comprising preparing a reaction mixture comprising: [0170] a polyol selected from the group consisting of glycerin, trimetholoyl propane and a combination thereof; [0171] sebacic acid; and [0172] octanoic acid,
[0173] wherein the method comprises a step of esterifying the glycerin with sebacic acid and octanoic acid, [0174] wherein the reaction mixture has a hydroxyl group to carboxyl group ratio (HCR) corresponding to a ratio of moles of hydroxyl groups to moles of carboxyl groups, and the HCR is less than about 1, and wherein the molar ratio of octanoic acid to sebacic acid is from 99.99:0.01 to 99:1.
[0175] The molar ratio of octanoic acid to sebacic acid may be about 99.97:0.03 to about 99.7:0.3, for example about 99.95:0.05, about 99.875:0.125, or about 99.78:0.22). The reaction may be quenched once the acid value reaches a value below 20 mgKOH/g, and the hydroxyl value reaches a value below 5 mgKOH/g. Typically, the mixture of ester polyol esters produced by the reaction may have a dynamic viscosity at 25° C. of from 20 to 90 cps. For example, the mixture of ester polyol esters produced by the reaction may have a dynamic viscosity at 25° C. of from 20-30 cps, 35-45 cps, or 80-90 cps.
[0176] As will be appreciated by a person skilled in the art, other ester polyol esters useful in the personal care compositions of the invention may be made by corresponding methods to that described above. Other methods for preparing ester polyol esters are described in U.S. Pat. No. 9,885,006 B2 and the below Examples.
[0177] The ester polyol esters used in the present invention can provide personal care compositions having enhanced sensory characteristics. For example, the ester polyol esters are more fluid than many known emollients, and this provides a lighter and less oily fee on the skin, as well as resulting in lower irritation potential. The ester polyol esters are also highly stable, enhancing the oxidation stability of the personal care compositions and making them suitable for prolonged storage without requiring antioxidants to be added to the composition.
[0178] Ester polyol esters formed from polyols such as glycerin and TMP are highly branched, allowing the manufacture of higher molecular weight products that have lower viscosity than unbranched ester polyol esters. This improves the spreadability of the resulting compositions, providing the properties discussed above. The ester polyol esters may also have a higher refractive index, resulting in a higher shine, which is especially desirable in haircare products.
[0179] The below Examples illustrate the invention, and are not to be construed as limitative.
EXAMPLES
[0180] Materials and Methods
[0181] Sebacic acid was purchased from Megachem, with purity 99.5%. Caprylic acid was purchased from KLK Oleochemicals with purity 99%. Glycerin was purchased from KLK Oleochemicals with purity 99.7%.
[0182] Acid value was determined as per ASTM D664.
Example 1: Reaction Procedure for the Synthesis of Polyol Esters
[0183] A polyol, a monoacid, a diacid, and a tin oxide catalyst (amounts specified in Tables 1a and 1 b below) were mixed in a reactor protected from oxygen and moisture. The reaction setup comprised a 4-neck round bottom flask equipped with overhead stirrer, inlet for nitrogen gas for blanketing, condenser with dean stark apparatus attached to it and a thermocouple/temperature controller. The resulting mixture was initially homogenized at 115° C., after which the content was sampled to determine the acid value. The reactor temperature was increased stepwise to 115° C., 180° C. and finally to the maximum reaction temperature of 210° C. The reaction produced water, which was removed by the elevated temperature and condensed by a condenser. When the rate of water production from condensation was slowed and the overhead temperature was reduced, the reactor was sparged with nitrogen at a rate of 0.2 L/min to accelerate removal of water. The reaction was progressed until the acid value reached 20 mgKOH/g was reached. Unreacted fatty acid and catalyst was removed by alkaline and clay treatment as described in U.S. Pat. No. 9,885,006 B2. Briefly, unreacted acid was removed by the minimum amount of the weakest strength alkaline material necessary to achieve the desired acid value. Residual catalyst was removed using Montmorillonite clay adsorbent having a high surface area resulting in excellent adsorption properties. The as-synthesized mixture of ester polyol esters was assigned the references identified in Tables 1a and 1b. PE25, PE50 and PE100 comprise the two compounds shown in
[0184] The amount of each reagent used to prepare the glycerin ester polyol esters is shown in Table 1a.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1a Details of reactants for preparing glycerin polyol esters PE25 PE50 PE100 Glycerin (g) 60.03 [0.6518] 61.83 [0.6714] 63.67 [0.6914] [moles] Sebacic acid (g) 19.00 [0.0939] 42.98 [0.2125] 67.51 [0.4681] [moles] Caprylic acid (g) 270.97 [1.8790] 245.19 [1.7002] 218.81 [1.5173] [moles] Tin oxide catalyst 450 450 450 (ppm) Diacid to 0.05 0.125 0.22 monoacid weight ratio Hydroxyl to 0.9461 0.9477 0.9493 carboxyl ratio
[0185] Corresponding esters made from trimethylolpropane were produced by equivalent methods, using the starting materials listed in Table 1 b below.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1b Details of reactants for preparing TMP polyol esters EM25 EM44 TMP (moles) 0.15972 0.16770 Azelaic Acid 0.01429 0.05122 (moles) Pelargonic Acid 0.47949 0.42887 (moles) Tin oxide catalyst 300 300 (ppm) Diacid to 0.029 0.12 monoacid weight ratio Hydroxyl to 0.94 0.95 carboxyl ratio
Example 2: Physical and Chemical Properties of the Ester Polyol Esters
[0186] Basic physical and chemical analyses were performed on the polyol esters using the identified standard and in-house methods as listed in Table 2. The results of the analysis are tabulated in Table 3 and subsequent sections.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 2 Tests conducted on polyol esters. Description Method Purpose Appearance Visual To observe the appearance of the synthesized polyol esters, typically should be Bright & Clear (B&C). Acid Value ASTM D664 To determine the acid value for reaction completion and final product properties. Pour Point ASTM D97 To determine the pour point of the synthesized polyols esters. Moisture Content ASTM D6304/ To determine the water/moisture content of ASTM D4672 the synthesized polyol esters Dynamic Viscosity In-House using To determine the viscosity of the Rheometer synthesized polyol esters. Flash point ASTM D92 To determine the flash point of the polyol esters. Cloud Point ASTM D2500 To determine the cloud point of the polyol esters whereby the cloud point is the temperature at which wax crystals begin to appear in a liquid
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 3 Physical and chemical properties of the polyol esters Emollient specification in Emollient Properties Unit personal care PE25 PE50 PE100 Dynamic Viscosity at 25° C. cps As reported 24.46 40.63 83.99 Acid value mgKOH/g <1.0 0.01227 0.425 0.61021 Colour (ASTM D1500) <0.5 <0.5 <0.5 <0.5 Lead <20 1.86 <.0.9 0.935 Cadmium <5 — <0.4 <0.4 Others ppm <10 <10 <10 <10 (P, Cr, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mg, Sn, V, Zn, Ti, Mo, Ni, Na, B, S, Ba, Al, K, Si Pour point ° C. <−30 −38 −49 −53 Cloud point ° C. As reported −36 −50 −44 Spreadability mm 2/10 As reported 573.97 440.61 286.67 min Surface tension mN/m <30 25.38 29.51 27.36 pH As reportedt 5 5 5 Flash Point ° C. >150° C. >150 >150 >150 Density g/cm.sup.3 As reported 0.81667 0.90766 0.98098
[0187] Surface Tension
[0188] The elastic-like force between the as-synthesized polyol esters and air, also referred to as surface tension, was determined using the Du Nouy Ring test method. This test is based on the principle that the force required to pull a ring through a liquid is related to the liquid's surface tension. Briefly, a ring attached to a torsion meter was dipped into the as-synthesized polyol ester. The ring was then subsequently withdrawn from the polyol ester, and the force on the ring was measured shortly before a liquid film tears. The surface tension was then calculated from the diameter of the ring and the tear-off force. The results are recorded in Table 4.
[0189] Surface tension has a strong impact on the wetting properties of a material and is also correlated with the spreadability of the material together. Typically, emollient with a low surface tension exhibits fast spreading behaviour and vice versa. This is shown by PE25, which has a low measured surface tension and a fast spreading ability, as compared to PE50 and PE100.
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 4 Surface tension of polyol esters Sample Surface Tension (mN/m) PE 25 25.38 PE 50 29.51 PE 100 27.36
[0190] TGA
[0191] The decomposition temperature of the reactants and polyol ester of different grades (PE25, PE50 and PE100) were determined using a thermogravimetric analyser (TGA). TGA is a method of thermal analysis by measuring the changes in the mass of a sample over increasing temperatures.
[0192] For reactants caprylic acid and glycerin, more than 99 wt. % of the sample was decomposed within the temperature range as shown in Table 5. However, for sebacic acid, only 95.24 wt. % of the sample was decomposed and its decomposition temperature is higher than the other feedstock being tested. This was attributed to the physical state of sebacic acid which exists as a solid, while the other reactants are in liquid form. It was noted that the boiling points of all reactants are higher than their decomposition temperatures.
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 5 Decomposition temperature range of reactants Decomposition temperature Boiling point temperature (° C.) (° C.) Caprylic acid 150.9 to 193.3 237.0 Sebacic acid 247.9 to 283.9 294.4 Glycerin 178.7 to 220.9 290.0
[0193] The analysis was also carried out on the polyol ester samples PE25, PE50 and PE100. There are two decomposition temperature ranges, indicating the existence of two different oligomeric structures in each sample. The decomposition temperature range for both samples are almost similar, suggesting that the oligomers in both samples have the same molecular structure. Typically, the higher the decomposition temperature, the higher the molecular weight of the oligomer. The results in Table 6 show that PE100 contains a higher percentage of oligomer with higher molecular weight (54.80 wt. %) as compared to PE25 and PE50.
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 6 Decomposition temperature range of polyol esters PE25 PE 50 PE 100 First decomposition Temperature range 300-327 270-333 277-356 (° C.) Percentage 86.82 64.32 45.36 decomposed (wt. %) Second decomposition Temperature range 408-497 372-447 390-427 (° C.) Percentage 13.55 34.32 54.80 decomposed (wt. %)
[0194] Spreadability
[0195] The spreading ability of the polyol ester samples was measured by the following method. At 25° C., a drop of the sample (20 μl) was applied to a flat, horizontal surface of ash-less paper (a Whatman filter paper). The liquid emollient sample was left to spread for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, the wetted area was measured and the results are tabulated in Table 7.
[0196] PE25 recorded the highest spreading area over a 10 minute duration, followed by PE50 and PE100. PE25 exhibited a fast spreading ability compared to PE50 and PE100 with medium and low spreading ability, respectively. Visually, PE25 appeared to be less viscous than PE50 and PE100.
TABLE-US-00008 TABLE 7 Spreadability of polyol esters Sample Spreadability (mm.sup.2/10 minutes) PE 25 573.97 PE 50 440.61 PE 100 286.67
[0197] Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectrometry (ICP-OES) Analysis
[0198] The metal content in the polyol esters was determined using ICP-OES (Perkin Elmer Optima DV 5300). The preparation of apparatus, standards and samples follow the standard operating procedure APHA 3120B. The results are shown in Table 3.
[0199] The effectiveness of clay treatment during purification step is verified since the tin content, which is used as catalyst during esterification reaction, is less than 1 mg/kg for all three samples.
TABLE-US-00009 TABLE 8 ICP-OES results of the polyol esters Metal content (mg/kg) Element PE 25 PE 50 PE 100 P 3.98 0.839 0.633 Cr — 0.487 0.514 Cu 1.41 0.478 0.455 Cd — <0.4 <0.4 Fe — 0.672 0.477 Mn 0.04 0.448 0.174 Mg 1.88 <10 <10 Sn 0.25 0.938 0.851 V 0.27 0.76 0.605 Zn — 1.43 1.13 Ti 0.21 0.824 0.668 Mo — 0.596 0.432 Ni 1.07 0.781 0.735 Na 9.06 <30 <30 B 1.60 6.00 4.02 S — 2.59 3.88 Ba — 1.53 0.714 Al 4.68 1.71 1.49 K 16.48 <7 <7 Pb 1.86 0.935 <0.9 Ca 1.08 <20 <20 Si 13.64 1.37 14 Li — 1.36 0.871 Ag — <0.1 <0.1
[0200] Toxicology
[0201] The toxicological properties of the polyol esters EM25 and EM44 were evaluated using the test methods listed below. Results are shown in
[0204] As shown by the results in
Example 3: Examples of Personal Care Formulations
[0205] Haircare Formulations
TABLE-US-00010 TABLE 9 Rinse-off Deep Nutrition Hair Mask formulation Rinse-off Deep Nutrtion Hair Mask Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 10.0 Shorea Robusta Seed Butter & Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T- 10.0 Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Cetearyl Alcohol & Behentrimonium Methosulfate Aqua/Water Up to 100 Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate 3.0 Glycerin 3.0 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.5 Disodium EDTA 0.1 Chlorphenesin 0.28 Isopentyldiol 3.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Buteth-3 & Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfate & 0.3 Tributyl Citrate Fragrance 1.0 Colorant Unicert Yellow 08006 2 Colorant Unicert Yellow 08005 0.8
TABLE-US-00011 TABLE 10 Hair Modelling Wax formulation Hair Modelling Wax Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 58.10 Hydrogenated Macademia Inegrifolia Seed Oil 15.0 Cera Alba & Cetyl Palmitate & Stearic Acid 7.0 Mangifera Indica Seed Butter 5.0 Behenyl Alcohol 4.5 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 10 Helianthus Anuus Seed Oil & 0.1 Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract Fragrance 0.3
TABLE-US-00012 TABLE 11 Nature-Derived, Sulfate-Free Moisturizing Shampoo and Body Wash formulation Natural-Derived, Sulfate-Free Moisturizing Shampoo and Body Wash Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 1.0 D. I. Water Up to 100 Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate and Disodium Laureth 40.0 Sulfosuccinate Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine 6.0 Panthenol 0.5 Sodium Chloride q.s. Preservative, Dye, Fragrance & pH adjuster q.s.
TABLE-US-00013 TABLE 12 Air conditioner formulation Hair Conditioner Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 4.0 D. I. Water Up to 100 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 3.0 Quaternium - 82 2.0 Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 Potassium Chloride 0.5 Preservative, Dye, Fragrance & pH adjuster q.s.
[0206] Bodycare Formulations
TABLE-US-00014 TABLE 13 Skin Lotion formulation Skin Lotion Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 6.0 D. I. Water Up to 100 Steareth-20 40.0 Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 Glyceryl Stearate 0.5 Preservative, Dye, Fragrance & pH adjuster q.s.
TABLE-US-00015 TABLE 14 Sprayable Body Lotion formulation Sprayable Body Lotion Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 10 D. I. Water Up to 100 Glycerin 1.5 Emulsifying Wax 1.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.5 Glyceryl Stearate 1.0 Preservative, Dye, Fragrance & pH adjuster q.s. Citric Acid q.s. Sodium Hydroxide q.s
[0207] Babycare Formulations
TABLE-US-00016 TABLE 15 Mild Conditioning Shampoo for Kids formulation Mild Conditioning Shampoo for Kids Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 1.5 Aqua/Water 64.7 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 28% 8.0 Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone 0.7 Sodium Cocoamphoacetate 11.0 Disodium PEG-5 Laurylcitrate Sulfosuccinate, 10.5 Sodium Laureth Sulfate Citric Acid (30% in water) 1.7 Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 1.5 Polyquartenium -10 0.2 Preservative, Fragrance q.s.
TABLE-US-00017 TABLE 16 Mild Baby Shampoo formulation Mild Baby Shampoo Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 9.5 Aqua/Water 65.8 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 28% 15.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Laurate 10.0 Sodium Chloride q.s. Preservative, Fragrance q.s.
TABLE-US-00018 TABLE 17 Moisturizing Light Body Milk formulation Moisturizing Light Body Milk Ingredient Wt % Ester polyol esters 4.0 Aqua/Water 89.0 Isoamyl Cocoate 3.5 Ceramide NP 0.1 Carbomer 0.2 Sodium Hydroxide (10% in water) q.s. Phenolxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin 0.7 Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate and Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate 3.0 Preservative, Fragrance q.s.
Example 4: Comparison of Various Chemical Properties with Known Emollients
[0208]
TABLE-US-00019 TABLE 18 Comparison of chemical properties with known emollients. 3T Crodamol TTIS [Commercial product [Commercial product from Stepan] from Croda) (Comparative (Comparative Name EM25 EM44 Example) Example) Molecular 849 1186 546 950 Weight Viscosity 26 49 25 167 Spreadability Fast Medium Fast Medium Refractive Index 1.452 1.455 1.451 1.463
[0209] The ester polyol esters EM25 and EM44 have improved viscosity, spreadability and refractive index for their molecular weight. This results in improved sensory characteristics and an advantageously increased shine.