AQUEOUS PERFUMES

Abstract

Leave-on ethanol-free water-based perfumed compositions which are stable during storage, in particular remain clear during storage, and which are non-irritating to the skin. An ethanol-free perfumed composition including water, a perfume and an ester, wherein the ester includes an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety.

Claims

1. An ethanol-free perfumed composition comprising water, a perfume and an ester, wherein the ester comprises an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms includes compounds of formula (I): ##STR00002## wherein each of m, n, and 1 independently represent a number from 0 to 40, the sum of m, n and 1 being in the range of 8 to 200, preferably 9 to 30; more preferably 15 to 25; and B1, B2, and B3 independently represent H or an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of B1, B2 and B3 is an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the ethoxylated glyceride is a mixture of compounds of the above formula (I) comprising: (i) compounds of formula (I), wherein each of B1, B2 and B3 independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; (ii) compounds of formula (I), wherein two of B1, B2 and B3 independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, the remainder representing H; (iii) compounds of formula (I), wherein one of B1, B2 and B3 represents an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; the remainder representing H; (iv) compounds of formula (I), wherein each of B1, B2 and B3 represent H; the weight ratio of the compounds (i)/(ii)/(iii) being 46 to 90/9 to 35/1 to 15.

4. The composition according to 2, wherein the acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, is derived from a natural fat or oil or a synthetic glyceride, preferably from coconut oil.

5. The composition according to 1, wherein the acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, is derived from a natural fat or oil or a synthetic glyceride, preferably from coconut oil.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the ester to the water is ranging from 3:1 to 0.33:1.

7. The composition according to claim 1, comprising an alkane-1,2-diol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

8. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 1% to 40% by weight of perfume, preferably 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of perfume to ester is ranging from 1:1.1 to 1:16.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount perfume is ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, the amount of ester is ranging from 20% to 60% by weight and the amount of water is ranging from 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of ethanol, preferably less than 4% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight, even more preferably less than 2% by weigh, and further more preferably less than 1% by weight and in a more preferred embodiment, the composition is free from ethanol.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises colorants, pigments, conservatives and/or bactericides.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition consists of water, a perfume and an ester comprising an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety.

14. A method for the preparation of an ethanol-free perfumed composition according to claim 1, comprising the following steps: (a) preparing a solution of water and the ester under stirring, and mixing until a clear and uniform solution is obtained, and (b) adding the perfume to the solution and mixing until a clear and uniform solution is obtained.

15. A method for the preparation of a fine perfume composition, a cosmetic composition or a personal cleansing composition, comprising adding the ethanol-free perfumed composition according to claim 1 to said fine perfume composition, said cosmetic composition or said personal cleansing composition.

16. A fine perfume composition, a cosmetic composition or a personal cleansing composition comprising the ethanol-free perfumed composition according to claim 1.

17. A method of improving solubility of a perfume in water and/or conferring transparency to a perfume composition comprising water and a perfume, comprising adding an ester comprising an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety to a composition comprising water and a perfume.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Ethanol-Free Composition

[0018] Ethanol-free perfumed composition, in the context of the invention, are compositions which comprises less than 5% by weight of ethanol, preferably less than 4% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight, even more preferably less than 2% by weigh, and further more preferably less than 1% by weight and in a more preferred embodiment, the composition is free from ethanol.

Water

[0019] The perfumed compositions of the present invention comprise at least 50% by weight water. In one embodiment, the compositions comprise from 5% to 75% by weight water. In a further embodiment, the compositions comprise from 10% to 50% by weight water, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight water.

Perfumes

[0020] As mentioned above, the alcohol-free composition of the present invention comprises at least one perfume.

[0021] In the context of this specification the term 140 perfume is understood as referring to one or a mixture of olfactively active materials currently used in perfumery, providing a pleasant smell. Mixture of perfumes can be referred to as perfumed composition . The perfume can be of natural or synthetic origin. In a general manner perfumes are hydrophobic compound belong to chemical classes as varied as terpenes hydrocarbons, acetates, alcohol, aldehydes, ketones, esters, ethers, nitriles, nitrogenous or sulphurous heterocyclic compounds and essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. A more detailed description is not warranted here since skilled persons are familiar with the ingredients and able to select them according to the nature of the product to be perfumed and the desired olfactory effect.

[0022] Water solubility of the fragrances is inversely correlated with the theoretical octanol/water partition coefficient usually expressed in the logarithm as log P octanol/water or log Pow. Low log Pow values indicate more water soluble molecules while higher log Pow values are indicating a more hydrophobic compound. However, the log Pow characterizes fragrances in a chemical environment free of surfactants. When surfactants are present, the log Pow may only provide a partial description of the fragrance intrinsic solubility that is now governed by the incorporation of the fragrance ingredients into the various sites of the surfactant micelles.

[0023] In one embodiment, the composition comprised 1% to 40%, preferentially between 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of perfume.

Polar Emollient Ester

[0024] The invention's perfumed composition also comprises a polar emollient ester. Polar emollient ester is defined, within the meaning of the invention, as amphiphilic polymers. The term amphiphilic defines a molecule comprising a water soluble moiety and an oil soluble moiety. Indeed, this class has strong affinity, and can possibly form chemical bonds, to polar materials so to perfume.

[0025] Accordingly, the present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfumed composition, the ester comprises an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety.

[0026] In a preferred embodiment, the ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms includes compounds of the following formula (I):

##STR00001##

wherein each of m, n, and 1 independently represent a number from 0 to 40,
the sum of m, n and 1 being in the range of 8 to 200, preferably 9 to 30; more preferably 15 to 25 and
B1, B2, and B3 independently represent H or an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of B1, B2 and B3 is an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0027] In particular, the ethoxylated glyceride is desirably used as a mixture compounds of the above formula (I) comprising: [0028] (i) compounds of formula (I), wherein each of B1, B2 and B3 independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; [0029] (ii) compounds of formula (I), wherein two of B1, B2 and B3 independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, the remainder representing H; [0030] (iii) compounds of formula (I), wherein one of B1, B2 and B3 represents an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; the remainder representing H; [0031] (iv) compounds of formula (I), wherein each of B1, B2 and B3 represent H; the weight ratio of the compounds (i)/(ii)/(iii) being 46 to 90/9 to 35/1 to 15.

[0032] These compounds are preferably prepared by a reaction between triglyceride and glyceride and ethylene oxide.

[0033] The acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, desirably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, is preferably derived from a natural fat or oil or a synthetic glyceride. Preferred fats and oils include vegetable palm kernel oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil; and animal fat such as tallow, bone oil, fish oil, hardened oils and semihardened oils thereof; and mixture thereof. Particularly preferred are acyl groups derived from coconut oil, palm oil and tallow such as beef tallow.

[0034] A preferred ethoxylated glyceride is the glycereth-17 cocoate, marketed under the trade name LEVENOL C-201B by Kao S.A. This is a mixture of compounds of the above formula (I) wherein the sum of m, n and 1 is 17 and either one or two groups of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil or wherein the ester comprises glycereth-20 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds formula (I) wherein the sum of m, n, and 1 is 20 and either one or two groups of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

[0035] Another preferred ethoxylated glyceride is the glycereth-20 cocoate. This is a mixture of compounds of the above formula (I) wherein the sum m, n and p is 20 and either one or two groups of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

[0036] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the perfume to the ester is comprised between of 1:1.1 to 1:16 inclusive.

[0037] In one embodiment, the weight ratio of the ester to the water is comprise between 3:1 to 0,33:1 inclusive.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the amount of perfume in the composition is ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, the amount of ester is ranging from 20% to 60% by weight and the amount of water is ranging from 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight from the composition.

[0039] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition can preferably consists of water, a perfume and an ester comprising an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety.

Alkane-1,2-Diol

[0040] The alcohol-free perfumed composition of the invention may optionally further comprise an alkane-1,2-diol, preferably having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0041] A preferred 1,2-alkanediol is pentylene glycol (INCI name) sold under the name HYDROLITE 5 GREEN by Symrise.

[0042] Another preferred 1,2-alkanediol is caprylyl glycol (INCI name) sold under the name HYDROLITE CG by Symrise.

[0043] Alkane diols such as glycols provide the cosmetic compositions with improved vaporizable properties by thinning said compositions.

[0044] The 1,2-alkanediol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Ingredients

[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alcohol-free perfumed composition may optionally further comprise one or more additional ingredients include for example colorants, pigments, conservatives and/or bactericides, providing some specific added benefits. Such additional ingredients are known compounds to a person skilled in the art. They can be synthetic or natural.

Method of Preparation of the Perfumed Compositions

[0046] The perfumed composition according to the present invention may be prepared, for example, by simple mixing all the ingredients; for example, by hand stirring or if need be using a mechanical mixer, the water and the ester of the present invention, mixing to form a clear and uniform solution, and finally adding the perfume to the solution and mixing to form a clear and uniform solution.

[0047] The so-called fine perfume is defined as the art of creating fragrances resulting from the combination of different essences, natural or artificial. The goal is to design a pleasant and unpleasant smell.

EXAMPLES

[0048] The examples which follow are used to illustrate the invention without however presenting a restrictive character. In these examples, the quantities of ingredients are given in weight percentage compared to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

[0049] A series of ethanol-free perfumed compositions comprising: [0050] 60% of ester, [0051] 20% of perfume and [0052] 20% of water
have been prepared.

[0053] Fourteen solutions were prepared esters either according to the invention, comprising an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety or presenting similar chemical structures while remaining outside of the scope the present invention.

TABLE-US-00001 INCI NAME APPEARANCE Composition 1 Glycereth-17 Cocoate Transparent (Invention) Composition 2 Glycereth-20 Cocoate Transparent (Invention) Composition 3 Sorbeth-2 Hexaolenate Non transparent (Milky) (Comparative) Composition 4 Sorbeth-2 Dilinoleate Non transparent (Semi- (Comparative) Crosspolymer translucent) Composition 5 Glycereth-2 Cocoate Non transparent (Cloudy) (Comparative) Composition 6 Glycereth-6 Tricocoate Non transparent (Milky) (Comparative) Composition 7 Glycereth-7 Methoxides Non transparent (Oil (Comparative) droplets) Composition 8 Glycereth-7 Glycolate Non transparent (Oil (Comparative) droplets) Composition 9 Glycereth-7 Lactate Non transparent (Oil (Comparative) droplets) Composition 10 Glycereth-7 Malate Non transparent (Semi- (Comparative) translucent) Composition 11 Glycereth-7 Citrate Non transparent (Semi- (Comparative) translucent) Composition 12 Glycereth-7 Triacetate Non transparent (Cloudy) (Comparative) Composition 13 Glycereth-7 Capylate/ Non transparent (Cloudy) (Comparative) Caprate Composition 14 Glycereth-7 Cocoate Non transparent (Cloudy) (Comparative)

[0054] As can be seen from the results presented in the above table, the compositions of the invention comprising esters with an ethoxylated glyceride derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moiety provided clear and transparent solutions whereas comparative composition containing different esters resulted in non-transparent solutions.

Example 2

[0055] Two additional ethanol-free perfumed compositions (compositions 15 and 16) according to the invention having the following composition have been prepared:

TABLE-US-00002 Composition Composition Composition 2 15 16 Ester (Glycereth-20 Cocoate) 60% 52% 40% Perfume 20% 26% 10% Water 20% 22% 50%

[0056] Compositions 2, 15 and 16 are all transparent.

[0057] In addition, the stability over time of these 3 compositions according to the invention was also evaluated by measuring the pH of the compositions after storage.

TABLE-US-00003 Composition Composition Composition 2 15 16 Initial 6.5 6.7 5.8 2 weeks 5 C. 6.5 6.3 5.7 45 C. 6.5 6.5 5.4 12 weeks 5 C. 6.4 6.5 5.5 45 C. 6.3 5.9 5.2
The pH of the compositions according to the invention remains stable over time during storage. The Variation of pH under the different storage conditions tested never exceeds 1 pH unit.

Example 3

[0058] Two additional ethanol-free perfumed compositions (compositions 17 and 18) according to the invention having the following composition have been prepared:

TABLE-US-00004 Composition Composition 17 18 Ester (Glycereth-20 Cocoate) .sup.24% 24% Perfume 1.5% 5% Water 74.5% 74%

[0059] Compositions 17 and 18 are both transparent.

Example 4

[0060] One additional ethanol-free perfumed composition (composition 19) according to the invention having the following composition has been prepared:

TABLE-US-00005 Composition 19 Ester (Glycereth-20 cocoate) 25% Perfume 8% Water 57% Pentylene glycol 10%

[0061] Composition 19 is transparent and shows improved vaporisable properties.