PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS USING A MONOSACCHARIDE WITH AMINE GROUP, A POLYSACCHARIDE WITH AMINE GROUP AND A STEP OF HEAT TREATMENT

Abstract

The invention relates to i) a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, employing a) at least one monosaccharide with amine group(s), b) at least one polysaccharide with amine group(s) then c) a heat treatment; ii) a composition having an acid pH comprising the ingredients a), b) and c) at least one organic or mineral acid a), b) and c) then heat to treat keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, and iv) a multi-compartment kit or device comprising a) and b). The invention makes it possible to improve the cosmetic effect of the keratin fibres intrinsically, in order to prevent or reduce the breakage of natural keratin fibres and/or to repair damaged keratin fibres, while retaining or even improving the manageability, anti-frizz properties and/or persistence of the styling of said fibres, in particular human fibres such as the hair, when a heating step is carried out.

Claims

1.-22. (canceled)

23. A process for treating keratin fibers, comprising: (i) applying to the fibers a composition a) comprising at least one monosaccharide with at least one amine group; (ii) applying to the fibers a composition b) comprising at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group; (ii) optionally a drying step; (iii) then a step of heat treatment at a temperature above or equal to 80 C., with a hair iron; wherein steps (i) and (ii) may be carried out simultaneously or sequentially.

24. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one monosaccharide with at least one amine group is chosen from hexosamines of formula (A), organic or mineral acid salts thereof, or anomers thereof, optical isomers thereof of L or D configuration, or solvates thereof: ##STR00011## wherein: R.sup.a, R.sup.b, R.sup.d, R.sup.e, and R.sup.f, which are identical or different, represent i) a hydroxyl group, ii) a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkoxy group, wherein the alkyl group is optionally substituted, iii) a carboxyl group, or iv) an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group, wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 represent i) a hydrogen atom or ii) a C(O)R.sub.1 alkylcarbonyl group wherein is a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl group; wherein at least one of the R.sup.a, R.sup.b, R.sup.d, R.sup.e, and R.sup.f radicals represents an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group.

25. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one monosaccharide with at least one amine group is chosen from the compounds of formula (A) below, organic or mineral acid salts thereof, or anomers thereof, optical isomers thereof of L or D configuration, or solvates thereof: ##STR00012## wherein R.sup.a, R.sup.b, R.sup.d, R.sup.e, and R.sup.f, which are identical or different, represent i) a hydroxyl group, ii) a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkoxy group, wherein the alkyl group is optionally substituted, iii) a carboxyl group, or iv) an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group, wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 represent i) a hydrogen atom or ii) a C(O)R.sub.1 alkylcarbonyl group wherein is a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl group; wherein at least one of the R.sup.a, R.sup.b, R.sup.d, R.sup.e, and R.sup.f radicals represents an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group.

26. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one monosaccharide with at least one amine group is present in the composition a) in an amount of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

27. The process according to claim 23, wherein the composition a) comprising the at least one monosaccharide with at least one amine group has an acidic pH.

28. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one polysaccharide comprising at least one amine group is chosen from those of formula (B) below, organic or mineral acid salts thereof, or anomers thereof, optical isomers thereof of L or D configuration, or solvates thereof: ##STR00013## wherein: R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c of each saccharide unit may be identical or different; n is an integer greater than or equal to 2; R.sub.a, R.sub.b, and R.sub.c, which are identical or different, represent i) a hydroxyl group, ii) a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkoxy group, wherein the alkyl group is optionally substituted, iii) a carboxyl group, or iv) an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group, wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are chosen from a hydrogen atom and C(O)R.sub.1; wherein at least one of the R.sub.a, R.sub.b, or R.sub.c radicals represents an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group wherein at least one of the NR.sub.1R.sub.2 groups represents an NH.sub.2 group.

29. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group is chosen from compounds of formula (B.sub.1) below, organic or mineral acid salts thereof, or anomers thereof, optical isomers thereof of L or D configuration, or solvates thereof: ##STR00014## wherein: R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcarbonyl group; R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl group optionally substituted with a carboxyl group; n is an integer greater than or equal to 2; wherein at least one of the R.sub.a, R.sub.b or R.sub.c radicals of at least one saccharide unit represents an NR.sub.1R.sub.2 group and at least one of the NR.sub.1R.sub.2 groups of at least one saccharide unit represents an NH.sub.2 group.

30. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group is chosen from compounds of formula (B.sub.3) below, organic or mineral acid salts thereof, or solvates thereof: ##STR00015## wherein: R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are chosen from a hydrogen atom and C(O)R.sub.1; and n is an integer greater than or equal to 2; wherein in the polysaccharide at least one saccharide unit bears an NH.sub.2 amino group and at least one other saccharide unit bears an N(H)R group with R representing a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcarbonyl group.

31. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group is chosen from chitosans of formula (B.sub.4) below, organic or mineral acid salts thereof, or solvates thereof: ##STR00016## wherein: R.sub.1 representing a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl group; and p is greater than 0 and ranges up to 0.5, with m+p being equal to 1; n is an integer greater than or equal to 2; wherein in the chitosan at least one saccharide unit bears an NH.sub.2 amino group and at least one other saccharide unit bears an N(H)R.sub.1 group with R representing a (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcarbonyl group.

32. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group is in a cosmetic composition and is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

33. The process according to claim 23, wherein composition b) comprising the at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group has an acidic pH.

34. The process according to claim 23, wherein the at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group has an average molecular weight MW of less than or equal to 400 kDa.

35. The process according to claim 23, wherein steps (i) and (ii) are carried out simultaneously or by applying, to the keratin fibers, a composition chosen from: the composition (C) having an acidic pH which comprises: a) at least one salified monosaccharide comprising at least one amine group; b) at least one salified polysaccharide comprising at least one amine group; the composition (C) having an acidic pH which comprises: a) at least one non-salified monosaccharide comprising at least one amine group; and b) at least one salified polysaccharide comprising at least one amine group the composition (C) having an acidic pH which comprises: a) at least one salified monosaccharide comprising at least one amine group as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5; and b) at least one non-salified polysaccharide comprising at least one amine group; or the composition (C) having an acid pH which comprises: a) at least one non-salified monosaccharide comprising at least one amine group; b) at least one non-salified polysaccharide comprising at least one amine group; and c) at least one organic or mineral acid.

36. The process according to claim 23, wherein the process comprises: (i) applying to said fibers a) at least one monosaccharide with at least one amine group; then (ii) applying to said fibers b) at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group; then (iii) heat treatment above or equal to 80 C.; wherein ingredients a) and b) are present in different cosmetic compositions.

37. The process according to claim 23, wherein the step of heat treatment or step of heating said fibers (iii) is carried out at a temperature of at least 100 C.

38. The process according to claim 23, wherein the process does not use an oxidized polysaccharide.

39. The process according to claim 23, wherein the step (ii) of drying the keratin fibers is carried out before the heat treatment step (iii), and wherein the drying is carried out using a hairdryer, a hood, a towel, an absorbent, or by natural drying.

40. An acidic composition (C) wherein the composition comprises: either a) at least one salified monosaccharide with at least one amine group; b) at least one salified polysaccharide with at least one amine group; and optionally c) at least one mineral or organic acid; or a) at least one non-salified monosaccharide with at least one amine group; b) at least one salified polysaccharide with at least one amine group; and optionally c) at least one mineral or organic acid; and either a) at least one salified monosaccharide with at least one amine group; b) at least one non-salified polysaccharide with at least one amine group; and c) at least one mineral or organic acid, wherein the at least one mineral or organic acid is different from the following acids: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, gluconic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, 100 OE and 500 OE ethoxylated stearic acid, linoleic acid, succinic acid and alginic acid; or a) at least one non-salified monosaccharide with at least one amine group; b) at least one non-salified polysaccharides with at least one amine group as defined in any one of claims 1, 6 to 12; and c) at least one mineral or organic acid, wherein the acid is different from the following acids: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, gluconic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, 100 OE and 500 OE ethoxylated stearic acid, linoleic acid, succinic acid, and alginic acid.

41. The composition according to claim 40, wherein the composition does not comprise oxidized polysaccharide.

42. A multi-compartment kit comprising: a first cosmetic composition comprising a) at least monosaccharide with at least one amine group, and optionally c) at least one organic or mineral acid; a second cosmetic composition comprising b) at least one polysaccharide with at least one amine group, and optionally c) at least one organic or mineral acid; and a device for heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 80 C.; wherein the first and second compositions are each packaged in a separate packaging assembly.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0244] The following compositions were prepared, and the results of the number of fibres is given for each composition.

TABLE-US-00001 No. of fibres repaired Composition Details of the composition (/5)** 1 Glucosamine hydrochloride (G) at 0/5 comparative 1% in water, spontaneous pH of 4.8 2 G at 5% in water, spontaneous 0/5 comparative pH of 4.17 3 Chitosan (C) at 1% in water* 0/5 comparative MW 310-375K, = 800-2000 Cp 4 C at 1% in water* 0/5 comparative MW approx 5000, <100 Cp 5 GC (G at 1% + C at 1%) in water** 5/5 invention with C: MW 310-375K, = 800-2000 Cp 6 GC (G at 1% + C at 1%) in water** 5/5 invention with C: MW approx 5000, <100 Cp 7 GC (G at 1% + C at 1%) in water** 5/5 invention with C: MW approx 28K, <100 Cp 8 GC (G at 5% + C at 1%) in water** 5/5 invention with C: MW approx 5000, <100 Cp *solubilize by addition of lactic acid up to pH = 4.5 (0.5) **the chitosan composition is adjusted to pH 4.5 (0.5) with lactic acid then the glucosamine hydrochloride is added. ***Split-end hair sold by IHIP (Glendale, NY 11385, USA)

[0245] The evaluation of the repair of the keratin fibres was carried out using a magnifying optical microscope (Model 175 X optical MightyScope 1.3M Digital Microscope sold by Aven Inc, USAaveninc.com).

[0246] Each fibre to be evaluated that is selected for study is a natural fibre and is naturally split into two longitudinally at the end.

[0247] The end of each fibre is observed before treatment and after treatment using the microscope. The treatment of the fibres consists in soaking each fibre in the composition for 30 seconds, then each fibre is left suspended for air drying, then is subjected to a heat treatment 3 times successively with a straightening iron at 190 C. (Babyliss PRO, EP Technology 5.0 sold by Babyliss).

[0248] Each before/after treatment comparison is repeated 5 times on different fibres split at their end longitudinally.

[0249] After treatment, it is evaluated using the optical microscope whether the fibre is repaired, i.e. if the two parts of the end of the fibre are joined, the result=1, if they are not joined, the result=0.

[0250] These results show that the combination of the ingredients a) and b) followed by a heat treatment results in a repair of the fibre, unlike the ingredients a) or b) taken alone.