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HAIR REPAIR COMPOSITION

20200163861 ยท 2020-05-28

    Inventors

    Cpc classification

    International classification

    Abstract

    The invention relates to a method for mending split ends of hair comprising contacting the hair with split ends with a composition comprising at least cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s.

    Claims

    1. A cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s.

    2. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to claim 1, having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 700 and 950 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.

    3. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to anyone of the preceding claims, having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 750 and 950 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.

    4. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to anyone of the preceding claims, having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 750 and 900 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.

    5. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to anyone of the preceding claims, having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 750 and 850 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.

    6. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein said galactomannan is guar.

    7. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cationic guar containing hydroxypropyl substituents.

    8. The cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

    9. A personal care composition comprising at least one cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s, as defined according to anyone of claims 1 to 8.

    10. The personal care composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it is a hair care composition.

    11. The personal care composition according to anyone of claims 9 to 10, which is a leave-on composition.

    12. The personal care composition according to anyone of claims 9 to 10, which is a rinse-off composition.

    13. The personal care composition according to anyone of claims 9 to 12, containing from 0.01 to 10 pbw of said cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents relative to the total weight of the composition, for instance from 0.05 to 5 pbw, for instance from 0.1 to 2 pbw.

    14. A method for mending split ends of hair comprising contacting the hair with split ends with a composition comprising at least one cationic polygalactomannan containing non-hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s, as defined according to anyone of claims 1 to 8.

    15. Use of one cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s, as defined according to anyone of claims 1 to 8 as an agent for mending split ends.

    16. Use of one cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s, as defined according to anyone of claims 1 to 8 as an agent for hair shaping, for example, for curl retention of hair.

    17. Use of one cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.Math.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s, as defined according to anyone of claims 1 to 8 as an agent for color protection.

    Description

    EXAMPLES

    [0093] The invention will now be described in further detail by way of the following non limiting examples, wherein the abbreviations have the usual meaning in the art. Water amount indicated as q.s. are intended to be the amount required to complete to 100 pbw.

    [0094] All ingredients are expressed by weight percent of the whole formulation and as level of active ingredients.

    Example 1

    [0095] The following serum compositions were prepared.

    TABLE-US-00001 Formulation Control of the Comparative Formulation invention Formulation Cationic polygalactomannan 0.5 containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents of the invention.sup.(a) Cationic polygalactomannan 0.5 containing non-ionic hydroxy- alkyl substituents, outside the scope of the invention.sup.(b) Ethanol 10 10 10 Glycerin 1 1 1 Panthenol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water q.s. q.s. q.s. .sup.(a)Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 750 and 850 mPa.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, available from Rhodia under the name Polycare Split Therapy .sup.(b)Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm lower than 700 mPa.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, available from Rhodia

    [0096] The polygalactomannans used in the formulation of the invention and in the comparative formulation have equivalent cationic degrees of substitution and hydroxyalkyl molar substitutions. They differ mainly from one another in terms of viscosity.

    Formulation Procedure

    [0097] Disperse the cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents in water. Add glycerin and panthenol. Adjust pH to 4.5-5. Add the preservative and adjust the pH to 4.7. Add the ethanol and verify the pH (5). Add water to qsp 100.

    Assessment of the Performances on Hair Tresses

    [0098] Hair tresses were purchased from Kerling International

    [0099] European Natural Human Hair of the following characteristics: Color 5/0. 19 cm total length, 17 cm of free hair. 2.5 cm width. 4 g weight free hair.

    Hair Pre-Treatment Protocol

    [0100] Wet the tress during 1 min under running water (or soak during 10 min in water if using several hair tresses). Apply on the whole tress 3 ml of a 10 pbw active sodium diethoxylated dodecyl sulfate (SLE2S) solution. Shampoo during 1 min, 30 sec on each side. Rinse during 1 min. Squeeze between index and middle finger. Detangle using middle teeth comb followed by fine teeth comb. Leave overnight in the controlled climate room (RH=50%10, T=23 C.)

    Hair Damaging Protocol to Obtain Split Ends

    [0101] The repeated grooming apparatus, custom-built, is used. The device consists of 10 compartments and allows 10 hair tresses to be combed simultaneously. The 4 combs per compartment are mounted at 90 angles, allowing one complete revolution to comb the tress 3 times. Collection drawers are located under each tress to collect the broken fragments. All experiments were performed under controlled temperature and humidity conditions, in a climate controlled room (RH=50%10, T=23 C.).

    [0102] The pre-treated hair tresses undergo repeated grooming during 7,5 hours at 19 rpm in order to create the split-ends

    Measurement of the Percentage of Split Ends Repaired

    [0103] The whole procedure takes place in the controlled climate room (RH=50%10, T=23 C.). Use 4 g hair tresses pre-treated and then damaged according to the protocols described above. Pick 10 hair fibers all bearing split ends and glue them together with a scotch tape in order to obtain a 10-fiber kit. Count the split ends under the lighted magnifier. Weight 2 mg of the product (resp.: Control Formulation, Formulation of the invention or Comparative Formulation) in a plastic weighting cup with the aid of a 0.5 ml capacity disposable transfer pipette dropper, on high precision balance. Gather the 10 fibers by holding them close to the split ends and soak them in the product to collect the maximum quantity. Spread the product out on the split ends (on the approximately last 1 cm towards the tips) with the finger until product absorption. Smooth the fibers once more and put the 10-fiber kit in the oven during 1 min. If needed smooth once to align the fibers and count the split ends left under the lighted magnifier.

    [0104] The percent of split ends repaired (% of Repair) was calculated as follows:

    [00001] % .Math. .Math. of .Math. .Math. Repair = ( Original .Math. .Math. number .Math. .Math. of .Math. .Math. split .Math. .Math. ends ) - ( number .Math. .Math. of .Math. .Math. split .Math. .Math. ends .Math. .Math. left ) Original .Math. .Math. number .Math. .Math. of .Math. .Math. split .Math. .Math. ends

    [0105] Results were the following:

    TABLE-US-00002 Control Formulation of Comparative Formulation Formulation the invention Formulation % of Repair 10 93 67 (calculation) % of Repair Reference +++ + (trend)

    [0106] The formulation of the invention, which includes a specific cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents in accordance with the invention, exhibits significantly improved split ends mending compared to the Comparative Formulation (which includes a cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents outside the scope of the invention in terms of viscosity) and also compared to the Control Formulation (which contains no ingredient acting specifically as agent for mending split ends).

    [0107] As evidenced by microscopy (Scanning Electron Microscopy), hair repair is perceivable.

    [0108] Hair fibers that have been treated with the formulation of the invention look healthier from the first use and onwards.

    [0109] As depicted in FIG. 1, after 1 application of the formulation of the invention, hair surface looks smoother, cuticles are partially repaired and bridges are formed between the split ends (partial sealing of split ends is achieved, which is sufficient to bring the splits together). Hair ends diameter appears thicker and looks healthier.

    [0110] As depicted in FIG. 2, after several (3) consecutive applications of the formulation of the invention, split ends are fully sealed and cuticles layed down.

    [0111] These examples illustrate that the specific cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents according to the invention, namely cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.Math.s (and preferably lower than 950 mPa.Math.s especially lower than 850 mPa.Math.s), at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, is highly effective in mending split ends.

    Example 2

    [0112] The performances of a formulation in accordance with the invention have also been compared to a benchmark composition (namely TRESemm Split Remedy Split Ends, which includes, as agent for mending split ends, a polyelectrolyte complex as taught in US 2005/0089494 and US 2006/0251603).

    [0113] The following serum composition was prepared.

    TABLE-US-00003 Formulation of the invention Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride 0.5 having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25 C. and 20 rpm comprised between 750 and 850 mPa.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water.sup.(a) Ethanol 10 Glycerin 1 Panthenol 0.5 Preservative <0.5 Water q.s. .sup.(a)available from Rhodia under the name Polycare Split Therapy

    [0114] The percentage of split ends repaired was measured following the same procedure and method as disclosed in Example 1.

    [0115] Results were the following:

    TABLE-US-00004 Benchmark formulation (TRESemm Control Formulation of Split Remedy Formulation Formulation the invention Split Ends) % of Repair 10 93 60 (calculation) % of Repair Reference +++ + (trend)

    [0116] A formulation of the invention, which includes a specific cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents in accordance with the invention, exhibits significantly improved split ends mending compared to the benchmark formulation (which includes, as agent for mending split ends, a polyelectrolyte complex combining polyquaternium-28 and methylvinylether/maleic acid copolymer, at particular ratios) and compared to the Control Formulation (which contains no ingredient acting specifically as agent for mending split ends).

    [0117] Tests also confirmed that split ends mending achieved when using the formulation of the invention resisted daily combing (everyday grooming).

    [0118] Compared to this benchmark formulation, the formulation of the invention is easier to use (more versatile).

    [0119] Sensory assessment also demonstrated that the formulation of the invention exhibited improved sensorial performance compared to this benchmark formulation.

    Example 3

    [0120] A curl retention test was set-up. The test takes place in a controlled climatic room (RH=50%10, T=23 C.). Pre-treated bleached tresses of 4 grams are used. One tress is used per system.

    Formulations

    [0121] Control Formulation and Formulation of the invention as described in Example 1 are used. Hair tresses were purchased from Kerling International. European Natural Human Hair strong bleached, of the following characteristics: Color 10/0, 19 cm total length, 17 cm of free hair. 2.5 cm width. 4 g weight free hair.

    Hair Pre-Treatment Protocol

    [0122] Wet the tress during 1 min under running water (or soak during 10 min in water if using several hair tresses). Apply on the whole tress 3 ml of a 10 pbw active sodium diethoxylated dodecyl sulfate (SLE2S) solution. Shampoo during 1 min, 30 sec on each side. Rinse during 1 min. Squeeze between index and middle finger. Detangle using middle teeth comb followed by fine teeth comb. Leave overnight in the controlled climate room (RH=50%10, T=23 C.)

    Test Protocol To Evaluate The Curl Retention Attribute

    [0123] 1. Comb the tress twice with large teeth comb then twice with fine teeth comb.

    [0124] 2. Place the tresses on a mount with a grid background and take a picture of the initial appearance.

    [0125] 3. Apply 500 mg of the formulation on the last 5 cm of the tress: hold the tress at the tips by tightening the fibers then soak tips vertically in the formulation and massage the tips. Hold the tress at the mid-height and retrieve the remaining formulation of the container by scrubbing the tress on it. Massage during 30 s from top to bottom.

    [0126] 4. Gently wrap the tress around a curler.

    [0127] 5. Dry 20 min at 60 C., in a ventilated oven.

    [0128] 6. Gently remove the curler from the tress.

    [0129] 7. Place the tresses on the mount and take a picture at t=0.

    [0130] 8. Take pictures at 3 hours then at 72 hours.

    [0131] Tress 1 was treated with the Control Formulation while Tress 2 was treated with the Formulation of the invention (FIG. 3).

    [0132] As depicted in FIG. 3, the curl unties after 3 hours when treated with the Control Formulation (tress 1). The curl/shape is maintained even after 72 hours under the study conditions, when treated with the Formulation of the invention (tress 2).

    [0133] The Formulation of the invention shows a good effect for shaping the hair, namely curl retention.

    Example 4

    [0134] In order to verify the durability of the Repair effect against washing, one application of the formulation was followed by several shampoo (washing) steps. At each step, the % Repair was evaluated. 5 hair tresses were used per system.

    Formulations

    [0135] The Formulation of the invention as described in Example 1 was used.

    [0136] The (neutral) shampoo formulation was as follows: SLES (sodium lauryl ether sulfate) 12% wt CAPB (cocamidopropyl betaine) 2% wt, pH=5.

    [0137] Hair tresses were purchased from Kerling International. European natural Human Hair of the following characteristics: Color 6/0, 20 cm total length, 18 cm of free hair. 2 g weight free hair.

    [0138] The hair tresses were pre-treated (see Hair pre-treatment protocol). Then the hair tresses were altered by mechanical action using the apparatus Spin Split Hair.

    [0139] Each tress to be studied is attached to the apparatus and then subjected to the alternating brushing of the two brushes, while a hairdryer sends hot air continuously on the tress. The combined action of repeated brushing and heat contributes to the deterioration of the tress, and in particular to the production of split ends.

    [0140] The tress is attached to the Spin Split Hair. The unit is set at 75 rotations per minute. Each tress is subjected to an alteration cycle of one hour, which is equivalent to about 9000 strokes of brushes.

    [0141] The tresses of hair are examined with a magnifying glass and tweezers. Each tress of hair is divided into 6 parts (subgroups) in which 50 hair fibers are selected and for each fiber, the technician identifies the presence or absence of a split end. For a tress, the technician raises a number of split ends per subgroup of tress, 6 values per tress and finally 30 values for all 5 tresses used per product. In the end, 1500 hair fibers are examined on all 5 tresses.

    [0142] The repair effect of the formulation was evaluated after the formulation application (Initial Repair) and after consecutive 1, 3, 5, and 10 shampoo applications.

    [0143] Application rules:

    [0144] Wet the tress and massage the whole length for 45 seconds with the neutral shampoo using 0.2 g of shampoo for 2 g of tress.

    [0145] Rinse thoroughly for 45 seconds and squeeze between index and middle finger. Let air dry the tress. Count the initial number of split ends.

    [0146] Apply 0.3 g of formulation (for 2 g tress) containing the Polycare Split Therapy on the last 8 cm of the tress (tips).

    [0147] Distribute the product on the tress by massaging.

    [0148] Let air dry the tress. Count the number of split ends. This gives access to the Initial Repair. Then proceed to additional shampooing (as described above) with intermediate counts of the split ends after 1 shampoo, 3 shampoos, 5 shampoos and 10 shampoos. This gives access to the % of the Initial Repair that is retained after each shampooing (FIG. 4).

    [0149] As depicted in FIG. 4, the performance is stable after 10 neutral shampoo applications: most of the repair obtained after 1 serum application is retained.

    [0150] Thus the Repair effect of Formulation of the invention is durable against several washing cycles.

    Example 5

    [0151] Same formulation and tress alteration protocol as described above are used.

    [0152] In order to verify the durability of the Repair effect against combing, one application of the formulation was followed by 20 combings. The % Repair was calculated. 5 hair tresses were used per system.

    [0153] Application rules:

    [0154] Wet the tress and massage the whole length for 45 seconds with the neutral shampoo using 0.2 g of shampoo for 2 g of tress.

    [0155] Rinse thoroughly for 45 seconds and squeeze between index and middle finger. Let air dry the tress. Count the initial number of split ends.

    [0156] Apply 0.3g of formulation (for 2g tress) containing the Polycare Split Therapy on the last 8 cm of the tress (tips).

    [0157] Distribute the product on the tress by massaging.

    [0158] Let air dry the tress. Count the number of split ends. This gives access to the Initial Repair. Then proceed to 20 combings with a fine teeth comb. Count the number of split ends. This gives access to the % of the Initial Repair that is retained after 20 combings.

    [0159] The test showed a 77% of the Initial Repair that is retained after 20 combings.

    [0160] Thus the Repair effect of the Formulation of the invention is durable against several combings, which simulates the everyday grooming process of the consumers.