Hydroxy functionalized solvent based skin benefit composition

Abstract

Described is a skin benefit cosmetic composition having a functionalized solvent and 12-hydroxystearic acid. The composition is at least substantially transparent and yields excellent skin benefits when topically applied.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: (a) 0.01 to 20 wt% of 12-hydroxystearic acid; and (b) a hydroxy functionalized solvent, the hydroxy functionalized solvent comprising methanol, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-(2-ethoxyethoxy) ethanol, phenoxyethanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol,_pentylene glycol or a mixture thereof, the composition being substantially free of water, the hydroxy functionalized solvent has an hydroxy group density content of greater than 0.03, and the hydroxy functionalized solvent makes up from 15% to 85% by weight of the composition, the composition being free of gelation and crystallization with a viscosity from 10 to 4,000 cps.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is substantially transparent.

3. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition further comprises a co-solvent miscible with the hydroxy functionalized solvent.

4. The composition according to claim 3 wherein the hydroxy functionalized solvent is pentylene glycol, ethanol, methanol or a mixture thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition is transparent.

6. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition further comprises a co-solvent which is an ester, silicone oil, mineral oil, plant based oil or a mixture thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 6 wherein the ester is the co-solvent and the co-solvent is isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isonanonate, oleyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate or mixture thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 7 wherein the co- solvent is isopropyl palmitate.

9. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition further comprises petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, 9,13-dihydroxy-12-ethoxy-10-octadecenoic, 9-hydroxy, 10,12-octadecadenoic acid, Vitamin E, Vitamin A, an oil soluble sunscreen or a mixture thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1 packaged with a separate and distinct water phase.

11. A method for treating skin by topically applying the composition of claim 1 to skin, to moisten the skin, strengthen the stratum corneum, provide anti-aging benefits to the skin and/or lightens the skin.

12. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition comprises 0.8 to 5% by weight 12-hydroxystearic acid, and isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.

13. the composition according to claim 12 wherein the composition is transparent.

14. The composition according to claim 1 when the composition further comprises hexyl resorcinol.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

(1) The only limitations with respect to the hydroxy functionalized solvent that may be used in this invention are that the same has an HD greater than 0.03, is suitable for use in a topical composition and results in a composition that is substantially transparent, preferably transparent. Often, the HD of the solvent is greater than 0.03 to 0.8, and preferably, from 0.05 to 0.65, and most preferably, from 0.1 to 0.55, including all ranges subsumed therein.

(2) In some embodiments, the hydroxy functionalized solvent is methanol, ethanol, benzyl alcohol 2-(2-ethoxyethoxy)ethanol, phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol or a mixture thereof. In other embodiments, the functionalized solvent is pentylene glycol, ethanol, methanol or a mixture thereof.

(3) The 12-hydroxystearic acid used in this invention is a preferred skin benefit agent within the anhydrous composition. The same may be used as the sole skin benefit agent in the composition along with the hydroxy functionalized solvent, or optionally, 12-hydroxystearic acid may be used with additional but optional skin benefit agents. The composition of the present invention when comprising, consisting essentially of or consisting of 12-hydroxystearic acid as the benefit agent surprisingly moistens skin, strengthens the stratum cornium, provides anti-aging benefits and/or lightens skin after topical application.

(4) Typically, the skin benefit agent portion (i.e., benefit agent in the composition in addition to solvent) of the anhydrous composition of this invention will comprise at least twenty-five percent by weight 12-hydroxystearic acid based on total weight of the skin benefit agent. The skin benefit agent portion of the composition of this invention is typically from 25 to 100%, and preferably, from 35 to 98%, and most preferably, from 50 to 95% by weight 12-hydroxystearic acid based on total weight of the skin benefit agent and including all ranges subsumed therein.

(5) The anhydrous composition of the present invention will typically comprise at least 0.0001 percent by weight, and preferably, from 0.01 to 20%, and most preferably, from 0.80 to 5% by weight 12-hydroxystearic acid based on total weight of the anhydrous composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.

(6) In particular, a composition is preferred comprising: (a) 0.01 to 5, more preferably 0.8 to 5 wt% of 12-hydroxystearic acid; and (b) a hydroxy functionalized solvent wherein the hydroxy functionalized solvent is methanol, ethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-(2-ethoxyethoxy) ethanol, phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol or a mixture thereof,
the composition being substantially free of water, and the hydroxy functionalized solvent has an HD content of greater than 0.03.

(7) Such a composition is typically substantially transparent. It is preferably free of crystallization and is preferably free of gelation. Without willing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the hydroxy-functionalysed solvent causes transparency in the context of the present invention, in 12-hydroxistearic acid comprising compositions which are substantially water free. Hence, the invention further relates to the use of a hydroxy functionalized solvent having an HD of greater than 0.03 to provide a substantially transparent composition being substantially free of water and comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, the composition of the invention, preferably such a substantially transparent composition, is a skin lightening composition.

(8) The hydroxy functionalized solvent used in this invention will typically make up from 10% to 99.9999%, and preferably, from 15% to 85%, and most preferably, from 25% to 65% by weight of the total weight of the anhydrous composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.

(9) Optional components suitable for use in the anhydrous composition of this invention may include co-solvents like mineral oils, plant based oils (e.g., sunflower, safflower, grape seed, rapeseed, Seabuckthorn, corn, olive, canola and/or avocado oil) silicone oils, synthetic or natural esters (including alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids), or a mixture thereof. Amounts of these optional components may range from 0.0 to 75%, and preferably, from 0.3 to 70%, and most preferably, from 10 to 65% by weight of the anhydrous composition, including all ranges subsumed therein. When such co-solvents are optionally used, they are used with the proviso that the anhydrous composition remains at least substantially transparent, and preferably, transparent as described herein.

(10) Silicone oils suitable for use may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term volatile as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, and preferably, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.

(11) Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities of less than 5 centistokes at 25 C. while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than 10 centistokes.

(12) Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as co-solvent material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes (like dimethicone) with viscosities of from 5 to 100,000 centistokes at 25 C.

(13) An often preferred silicone source is a cyclopentasiloxane (D5), dimethiconol solution or both.

(14) Among suitable esters as co-solvents are:

(15) (1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms like isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate;

(16) (2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols;

(17) (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters such as ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxy-ethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters;

(18) Anhydrous compositions comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, mineral oil, sunflower oil, cyclopentasiloxane (and/or isopropyl palmitate) and hydroxy functionalized solvent are often desired.

(19) Inclusion of hydrocarbons having a viscosity under 10 cps can be desired in the anhydrous compositions of this invention with isododecane being often preferred.

(20) Use of the anhydrous composition of this invention to treat skin is often desired.

(21) Additional skin benefit agents that may optionally be used with 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the skin benefit agents portion of the anhydrous composition of this invention include oil soluble actives like, petroselinic acid, rincinoleic acid, 9, 13-dihydroxy-12-ethoxy-10-octadecenoic acid, 9-hydroxy 10,12-octadecadienoic acid, octadecenedioic acid, Vitamin E (and its derivatives like tocopherol acetate), Vitamin A (retinol), Sepiwhite, oil soluble sunscreens mixtures thereof or the like.

(22) Such optional agents when used make up from 0.0001 to 10%, and preferably, from 0.001 to 8%, and most preferably, from 0.01 to 5% by weight of the anhydrous composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.

(23) Fragrances, fixatives and abrasives may optionally be included in the anhydrous and water comprising compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

(24) Water soluble skin lightening actives like soybean extract, Vitamin C and its derivatives, Vitamin B and its derivatives (e.g. niacinamide or Vitamin B3) resorcinol (preferably, 4-ethyl, -butyl, -isopropyl, hexyl and/or phenylethyl resorcinol), Bowman Birk inhibitor, acetylglucosamine, calcium pantothenate, mixtures thereof or the like may be packaged with the anhydrous compositions of this invention but in a double phase product comprising water, or in concentrate or solid (including particulate or powder).

(25) The water phase may optionally further include components like water soluble sunscreens, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B6, Folic Acid and Biotin. The total amount of such components making up the water phase as defined herein according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 100%, and preferably, from 0.01% to 10%, optimally from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of the water phase, including all ranges subsumed therein.

(26) Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the separate and distinct phase comprising water of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives for compositions of this invention are alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds, 1,2-octanediol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerine as well as iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability. Particularly preferred preservatives are iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.

(27) Thickening agents may optionally be included in the hydrous phase of the double phase product. Cellulosics suitable for use include hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethylcellulose and sodium carboxy methylcellulose. Synthetic polymers are yet another class of effective thickening agent. This category includes crosslinked polyacrylates such as the Carbomers, polyacrylamides such as Sepigel 305 and taurate copolymers such as Simulgel EG and Aristoflex AVC, the copolymers being identified by respective INCI nomenclature as Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate and Acryloyl Dimethyltaurate/Vinyl Pyrrolidone Copolymer. Another preferred synthetic polymer suitable for thickening is an acrylate-based polymer made commercially available by Seppic and sold under the name Simulgel INS100.

(28) Thickening agents suitable for use in the anhydrous phase of this invention include agents like Viscup P (Lonza), Versagel (Penreco) and trihydroxystearane.

(29) Amounts of the thickener, when used, may range from 0.001 to 5%, and preferably, from 0.1 to 2%, and most preferably, from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of the composition including all ranges subsumed therein.

(30) Conventional humectants may be employed in the optional phase comprising water of the present invention. These are generally polyhydric alcohol-type materials. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol (i.e., glycerine or glycerin), propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. Most preferred is glycerin, propylene glycol or a mixture thereof. The amount of humectant employed may range anywhere from 0.0 to 99.9%, preferably, between 25 and 50%, and preferably, from 25 to 50% by weight of such composition.

(31) It is within the scope of this invention for the separate and distinct water containing phase to be an emulsion. The oils described herein are the often preferred oils wherein the preferred emulsifiers include those with an HLB of greater than 6 when an oil-in-water emulsion is preferred. Illustrative Examples of the types of emulsifiers suitable for use are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,198,210, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.

(32) The compositions of this invention may be made by mixing ingredients under conditions of moderate shear, temperature preferably between 70-85 C. and atmospheric temperature. No particular order of addition is required.

(33) A wide variety of packaging can be employed to store and deliver the composition (including double phase product) of this invention. Packaging is often dependent upon the type of end-use. For instance, skin products generally employ plastic containers with an opening at a dispensing end covered by a closure. Typical closures are screw-caps, non-aerosol pumps and flip-top hinged lids. Packaging may involve a container with a roll-on ball on a dispensing end. Metallic cans pressurized by a propellant and having a spray nozzle serve as packaging for antiperspirants, shave creams and other personal care products. As previously noted, if a water phase is desired, the same may optionally be packaged separately and distinct from the anhydrous phase. Preferably the immiscible phases are packaged together as two distinct phases (i.e., biphasic).

(34) The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the present invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

EXAMPLES

(35) Examples (Nos. 1-91) represent formulations with a hydroxy functionalized solvent having a hydroxy group density (HD) over 0.03 in combination with 12-hydroxystearic acid that unexpectedly yield a substantially transparent or transparent composition. A C represents a substantially transparent or transparent composition for at least three (3) months after manufacturing (i.e., a composition consistent with this invention with no benefit agent crystallization or composition gelation) and an X represents an opaque (non-transparent, non-translucent) composition inconsistent with the claimed compositions of this invention and where benefit agent crystallization or composition gelation is almost immediately observed.

Examples 1-91

(36) TABLE-US-00001 1% SBA/ 3% SBA/ 5% SBA/ 10% SBA/ 15% SBA/ 20% SBA/ 25% SBA/ SOLVENT HD 99% Solvent 97% Solvent 95% Solvent 90% Solvent 85% Solvent 80% Solvent 75% Solvent Methanol 0.53 C C C C C C X Ethanol 0.37 C C C C C X X Benzyl Alcohol 0.16 C C C X X X X 2-(2- 0.13 C C C X X X X Ethoxyethoxy)ethanol Pehnoxyethanol 0.12 C C C X X X X Isostearyl Alcohol 0.06 C C X X X X X Octyldodecanol 0.06 C C X X X X X Conjugated Linoleic 0.06 C C X X X X X Acid Isostearic Acid 0.06 C C X X X X X Ethylhexyl 0.04 C X X X X X X Hydroxystearate Propylene Glycol 0.45 C X X X X X X Butylene Glycol 0.38 C X X X X X X Pentylene Glycol 0.33 C C C C X X X SBA = Skin benefit agent, 12-hydroxystearic acid

Examples 92-93

(37) TABLE-US-00002 INGREDIENT % % Mineral Oil 70 Sus 14 14 Isopropyl Palmitate 50 83 Sunflower Seed Oil 1 1 Cyclopentasiloxane 1 1 Isostearyl Alcohol 33 0 12-hydroxystearic acid 1 1 Total 100 100

(38) The Samples in Example 92-93 were made by mixing the ingredients with moderate shear at 80 C. and under atmospheric pressure. The sample of Example 92, comprising functionalized solvent consistent with this invention (e.g., isostearyl alcohol), unexpectedly remained transparent for more than three months after manufacturing. In contrast, the Sample of Example 93, deplete of hydroxy functionalized solvent as claimed in this invention, crystallized and gelled almost immediately after making whereby the composition was not suitable for topical application. The Sample made in Example 92 was topically applied to trained panelists, all of whom concluded the composition yielded excellent sensory and skin quality benefits immediately after application.

Examples 94-102

(39) The Samples of Examples 94-102 were made in a manner similar to the one described for Examples 92 to 93.

(40) TABLE-US-00003 INGREDIENT % % % % % % % % % Mineral Oil 70 Sus 14 14 14 5 85 66 14 Isopropyl Palmitate 50 83 50 10 10 50 Sunflower Seed Oil 1 1 1 1 66 1 Cyclopentasiloxane 1 1 1 1 66 1 Isostearyl Alcohol 33 80 33 33 33 Phenoxyethanol 33 Cetyl Alcohol (solid) 33 12-hydroxystearic acid 1 1 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

(41) Samples having hydroxy functionalized solvent consistent with this invention unexpectedly remained clear/transparent for more than three months after manufacturing. Samples from Examples 95, 98 and 102, deplete of hydroxy functionalized solvent as claimed in this invention, crystallized and gelled almost immediately after being made. These gelled compositions were not desirable nor suitable for topical application. When Samples from Examples 94, 96, 97, 99, 100, 101 were applied topically to skin, all trained panelists concluded that the compositions yielded excellent sensory benefits immediately after application. The panelists also concluded a light and natural sensory profile was detected after application along with a general improvement in skin quality.