WOVEN SHOE UPPER
20240016258 ยท 2024-01-18
Inventors
Cpc classification
A43B13/28
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A43B3/0078
HUMAN NECESSITIES
D03D15/283
TEXTILES; PAPER
D03D31/00
TEXTILES; PAPER
D03D15/68
TEXTILES; PAPER
A43D999/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
D03D13/004
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
D03D15/68
TEXTILES; PAPER
D03D15/283
TEXTILES; PAPER
A43B13/28
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A43D999/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention concerns a shoe upper comprising a woven portion, wherein the woven portion comprises a plurality of warp yarns; a plurality of weft yarns; at least one stitching yarn, wherein the stitching yarn is integrally woven into the fabric during the weaving process by laterally displacing the stitching yarn substantially along the weft direction and moving the stitching yarn in and out of at least one open reed gap in a reed.
Claims
1. A method of making a woven portion for a shoe upper, comprising: providing a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of weft yarns; interweaving the plurality of weft yarns and the plurality of warp yarns; providing at least one stitching yarn, arranged substantially parallel to the warp yarns; and simultaneously interweaving the stitching yarn during the weaving process by laterally displacing the stitching yarn substantially along the weft direction and moving the stitching yarn in and out of at least one open reed gap in a reed.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the reed comprises at least two groups of reed gaps, wherein a reed gap of the first group is at least partially covered by an insertion bevel, and wherein a reed gap of the second group is not covered by an insertion bevel.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the stitching yarn comprises a meltable component.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the stitching yarn is located within 2 cm from at least one lace eyelet.
5. The method according to claim 1, wherein at least one stitching yarn is interwoven at an angle of between 30 and 60 with the warp or weft yarns between at least two different interlacing points.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the method further comprises forming a reinforcement region comprising: stitching at least one stitching yarn along a first direction; changing the direction of the stitching yarn to a second direction, which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the first direction; changing the direction of the stitching yarn to a third direction which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the second direction; and changing the direction of the stitching yarn to a fourth direction which is at an angle of less than 30 degrees to the first direction.
7. The method according to claim 1, further comprising configuring at least one stitching yarn as a lacing yarn, comprising: extending at least one stitching yarn beyond the edge of the woven portion and configuring said stitching yarn to be moveable within the woven portion.
8. The method according to claim 1, wherein providing a plurality of warp and weft yarns, and at least one stitching yarn comprises providing at least one stitching yarn and/or one weft yarn and/or one warp yarn that is dissolvable in a solvent and dissolving the dissolvable warp, weft, and/or stitching yarn in the solvent.
9. The method according to claim 8, wherein the solvent is water.
10. The method according to claim 1, wherein at least one stitching yarn comprises carbon fiber.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0091] The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying figures in the following. These figures show:
[0092]
[0093]
[0094]
[0095]
[0096]
[0097]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0098]
[0099] Since the stitching yarn 15 is added during the weaving, the process has a reduced complexity compared to a two-step process where a stitching yarn is incorporated in a second step either manually or by a machine. In conventional weaving, the reed 18 is closed at the top and the yarns are not free to leave the read through either vertical or horizontal movement. For the present invention, an open reed is required, wherein the reed has openings 19 at the top where the stitching yarn 15 can move out of the reed and re-enter at a different lateral position within the reed.
[0100] It is possible that in some regions of the shoe upper, the stitching yarns 15 run in a linear, warp-wise direction.
[0101] Compared to the two-step process, the stitching yarn 15 can be arranged in a more accurate and reproducible manner. Since a needle is not required for incorporating the stitching yarn, there is also less risk of damage to the warp or weft yarns which could be damaged by a needle in a second step comprising an embroidery process.
[0102] In conventional weaving techniques, incorporating a complex pattern would result in waste yarns at the back of the woven fabric and hence an increased average area weight of the fabric. The reason for this is that with conventional techniques, a localized pattern can only be created by moving a yarn to the top of the weave at those positions where it is supposed to show and hiding said yarn at the back of the weave over the whole length or width of the weave in those positions where it is not supposed to be visible. The present method prevents waste yarns at the back of the fabric as the stitching yarn allows localized patterns to be incorporated into a textile without the need to hide the yarn at the back of the textile in portions of the fabric where it is not supposed to be visible. As a consequence, the average area weight of the woven fabric may be reduced, thereby improving the performance of the shoe upper. Note that with the present method, the area weight of the fabric may also be engineered to vary locally (the area weight in regions comprising the stitching yarn may be higher than in regions without the stitching yarn) more specifically than with conventional methods, thus allowing reinforcement regions to be engineered into some portions of the fabric while keeping other portions more lightweight.
[0103] An additional benefit of the present method is that the stitching yarn can be used to crimp the edge of the woven sheet to prevent fraying. Part of the woven sheet is cut after weaving, either manually or automatically via conventional cutting or laser cutting. The shoe is then formed via a lasting and finishing process. One of the major hurdles in using woven materials, for example Leno-type woven fabric, for producing shoe uppers is the unravelling of material during handling. This method allows for open woven structures without the need for glues or adhesives, such as melt yarns, to prevent unravelling during handling.
[0104] The reed may comprise at least two groups of reed gaps, wherein a reed gap of the first group is at least partially covered by an insertion bevel, and wherein a reed gap of the second group is not covered by an insertion bevel. One problem of using an open reed is that the stitching yarn may get stuck at the top of the reed gap during insertion into the reed gap. This can be prevented by using an insertion bevel which guides the stitching yarn into the intended reed gap and blocks neighboring reed gaps.
[0105] The stitching yarns 15 can have a tensile modulus greater than the tensile modulus of the warp yarns 11a and 11b and/or the weft yarns. By using an elastic material for the warp and/or weft yarns and a less elastic material for the stitching yarn 15, an upper comprising the woven portion has a good and comfortable fit but still provides the required level of support in regions where increased support is required due to the presence of the less elastic stitching yarns 15.
[0106] A displacement mechanism (see
[0107] The warp yarns 11a, 11b and/or the weft yarns contain a volume fraction of at least of elastane. By incorporating a significant volume fraction of elastane, an upper comprising the woven portion conforms well to a wearer's foot and the upper is lightweight and comfortable to wear. In particular, the basic fabric formed by the warp and weft yarns has an inherent amount of stretch and elasticity, deforming and recovering from strains of up to 20% in at least one direction. The person skilled in the art will recognize that this value is significantly higher than for conventional woven or knitted fabric, which typically experience irreversible damage at strains of about 4% or higher.
[0108] A base fabric, comprising the warp yarns 11a, 11b and the weft yarns, but excluding the stitching yarns 15, of the woven portion has a mass of 15-700 grams per square meter. A lightweight woven portion improves the performance and wearing comfort of the upper.
[0109] The stitching yarns 15 have a tensile modulus of at least 3 GPa. A stitching yarn 15 with a tensile modulus of at least 3 GPa facilitates a preferred level of support in areas where additional support is required during physical activity without being too constricting for a wearer's foot which would deteriorate the wearing comfort.
[0110] The stitching yarns 15 may comprise high-tenacity polyester, polyamide, and/or carbon fiber. It is possible that some stitching yarns comprise one of these materials and some other stitching yarns comprise another one of these materials. It is also possible that one stitching yarn comprises a composition of two or all of these materials. These materials are particularly lightweight and particularly durable with a low elasticity that is suitable for regions of the woven portion that require additional support.
[0111] The stitching yarns 15 are incorporated at a density of at least 1 stitching yarn end per cm along the weft direction. It is found that, in order to locally engineer the properties of the woven portion, the density of the stitching yarns does not need to be high. Preferably this density is at least 1 stitching yarn end per cm along the weft direction. More preferably this density is at least 2 stitching yarn ends per cm along the weft direction. At this density, the stiffness of the stretched woven portion is increased significantly at strains of 20% to 30%. The stitching yarns may be integrated in large numbers over a great width or in small numbers over a narrow width.
[0112] Some or all of the stitching yarns 15 may comprise a meltable component (not shown in the figures). The stitching yarns can be either coated or comprised entirely of low temperature melt, typically with melting temperatures between 40 and 200 C. By melting the meltable component, it is possible to locally fix the structure permanently, for example to prevent unravelling during further processing or when the shoe is worn.
[0113]
[0114]
[0115] The stitching yarns 15a make an angle of between 30 and 60 with the direction 35 of the warp yarns between several different interlacing points. A conventional woven fabric is most stable along the warp (0) or weft (90) directions. Woven materials are often unstable along a bias direction substantially along +/45 to the warp direction. If the stitching yarn is added at an angle of between 30 and 60 to the warp direction, the mechanical properties in this angular range reflect the properties of the stitching yarn. Therefore, for example, by using a strong stitching yarn it is possible to add support that reduces strains when mechanical stresses, or forces, are present at an angle of between approximately 30 and 60 to the warp direction. It is also possible to engineer a woven portion that is locked by the stitching yarn and has only very little elasticity in a specific direction or region. Furthermore, by arranging the stitching yarn at such angles, it is possible for the stitching yarn to follow the natural contours of a shoe upper to improve the fit and aesthetic aspects of the upper.
[0116] These interlacing points are located in an area of the woven portion 34 that will be located in a midfoot region of the upper. As disclosed herein, when the stitching yarn makes an angle of between 30 and 60 with the warp or weft yarns, it is possible to engineer additional support against distortions in this direction. The midfoot region of an upper is frequently subject to the large stresses and forces in a range of directions during physical activity. Therefore, it is often preferable that additional support is provided in the midfoot region of the upper, especially along the frequently weakest directions of the fabric.
[0117]
[0118] The stitching yarns 15b of the second type are located close to, and within 2 cm from, several lace eyelets 33. The region around the lace eyelets is subject to increased wear and tear in normal everyday use of a shoe. Therefore, by incorporating the stitching yarns 15b of the second type in the area around the lace eyelets it is possible to add support locally in this area as required but without increasing the weight of the upper significantly. The stitching yarns 15a of the first type may have a different composition and/or tensile modulus than the stitching yarns 15b of the second type. For example, it is preferable to have very stiff stitching yarns 15b of a second type with a very high tensile modulus around the lace eyelets where no elasticity is required, whereas the stitching yarns 15a of the first type could be more elastic and have a lower tensile modulus to allow for a certain degree of flexibility in the midfoot region.
[0119] The stitching yarns 15a and 15b make an angle of between 30 and 60 with the direction 35 of the warp yarns between several different interlacing points. This is in order to add support that reduces strains when mechanical stresses, or forces, are present at an angle of between approximately 30 and 60 to the warp direction. These stresses are often present in the midfoot region and the region around the lace eyelets 33 during physical exercise.
[0120] The woven sheets 20a and 20b comprise a reinforcement region 36, comprising: a. at least one stitching yarn 15 along a first direction; b. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a second direction, which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the first direction; c. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a third direction which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the second direction; and d. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a fourth direction which is at an angle of less than 30 degrees to the first direction. In other words, the reinforcement region 36 comprises at least one stitching yarn 15 that starts off along a first direction and follows a zigzag path before it returns approximately back to the first direction. The advantageous effect is that specific regions where additional strength is required can be reinforced without the need to incorporate a different type of yarn. This type of reinforcement region is not possible in conventional weaving.
[0121]
[0122] The woven sheet 20c comprises a reinforcement region 36, comprising: a. at least one stitching yarn 15 along a first direction; b. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a second direction, which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the first direction; c. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a third direction which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the second direction; and d. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a fourth direction which is at an angle of less than 30 degrees to the first direction. In other words, the reinforcement region 36 comprises at least one stitching yarn 15 that starts off along a first direction and follows a zigzag path before it returns approximately back to the first direction. The advantageous effect is that specific regions where additional strength is required can be reinforced without the need to incorporate a different type of yarn. This type of reinforcement region is not possible in conventional weaving.
[0123] The woven sheet 20c comprises two stitching yarns 41 that are dissolvable in a solvent. This way it is possible to create gaps, i.e. areas that provide improved ventilation and flexibility, in the woven portion. It is not feasible to create these gaps in conventional weaving, as the warp and weft yarns will slide across each other to close any gaps. Here, the dissolvable yarns 41 keep a space clear from non-dissolvable yarns during weaving. After weaving, the dissolvable yarns are dissolved and a gap is created. This process may include fixing the woven portion before dissolving the dissolvable yarns, for example by melting selected melt yarns in order to improve the stability of the gap. The dissolvable yarns may be dissolved prior to lasting of the upper or they may be dissolved after lasting of the upper. Dissolving the dissolvable yarns may be performed prior to sale or after sale of the shoe, i.e. it is also possible that the decision whether or not to dissolve the dissolvable yarns is left up to the customer.
[0124] While in this example two stitching yarns are dissolvable in a solvent, it is to be understood that a stitching yarn, a warp yarn, and/or a weft yarn may be dissolvable in a solvent. There may be one or more than one dissolvable yarn.
[0125] Dissolving the dissolvable yarns 41 may be done at temperatures of 70-100 C. to increase the solubility of the dissolvable yarns 41 in the solvent.
[0126] In this example, the solvent is water. Water is non-toxic and safe to use even on a large scale. The exemplary water-dissolvable yarn 41 comprises poly(vinyl alcohol), which has the advantage that it is not toxic and has a high solubility in water.
[0127] However, many combinations of dissolvable yarn and solvent are suitable. It is only important that the dissolvable yarn is soluble in the solvent. The solvent may be an ionic liquid or an organic solvent, depending on the material of the dissolvable yarn. For example, alternatively, the dissolvable yarn may comprise polycaprolactone for which a suitable solvent would be chloroform or dichloromethane, or a mixture of both. Alternatively, the dissolvable yarn could be made from nylon for which a suitable solvent would be acetic acid.
[0128] The woven sheet 20a, 20b, 20c shown in
[0129]
[0130]
[0131] The woven sheets 20d and 20e comprise at least a first 15 and a second 15 stitching yarn, wherein the second stitching yarn 15 is incorporated substantially parallel to the first stitching yarn 15. The first 15 or the second 15 stitching yarn or both the first 15 and the second 15 stitching yarn may have the properties of the at least one stitching yarn 15 described herein. Substantially parallel in this context means parallel within +/10 degrees to allow for manufacturing imperfections. In many cases, it may not be sufficient to include a single stitching yarn. By incorporating a second stitching yarn that is substantially parallel to the first stitching yarn, the effect of incorporating the first stitching yarn is enhanced by the second stitching yarn and thus a greater amount of stiffness can be achieved.
[0132] The stitching yarns 15 can be either coated or comprised entirely of low temperature melt, typically with melting temperatures between 40 and 200 C. By melting the meltable component, it is possible to locally fix the structure permanently, for example to prevent unravelling during further processing or when the shoe is worn. In particular, the use of a yarn comprising a meltable component enables the additional stiffness that is introduced by the stitching yarn to be spread over a whole region rather than just along the stitching yarn 15. The step of melting the meltable component can be conducted in a 2-D form, for example with a stent frame heat setting, or in a 3-D form, or when the upper is arranged on a last. This has the advantage that the shoe upper obtains a shape specific to the mold or lasting geometry.
[0133] It is also possible that melt yarns 15 are incorporated into the woven sheet outside of the boundary of a normal 2-D shoe upper, i.e. outside the woven portion that will become part of the upper. Therefore, when it 2-D upper is lasted to bring it to a 3-D form, these excess melt yarns 15 could be used to close the shoe upper around the last.
[0134] The woven sheets 20d and 20e comprise a reinforcement region 36, comprising: a. at least one stitching yarn 15 along a first direction; b. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a second direction, which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the first direction; c. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a third direction which is at an angle of at least 30 degrees to the second direction; and d. the stitching yarn 15 then changes to a fourth direction which is at an angle of less than 30 degrees to the first direction. In other words, the reinforcement region 36 comprises at least one stitching yarn 15 that starts off along a first direction and follows a zigzag path before it returns approximately back to the first direction. The advantageous effect is that specific regions where additional strength is required can be reinforced without the need to incorporate a different type of yarn. This type of reinforcement region is not possible in conventional weaving.
[0135] The woven sheets 20d and 20e shown in
[0136]
[0137]
[0138] An advantage of incorporating stitching yarns 61a,b that are configured as lacing yarns is that the speed of production of the upper may be increased significantly as in conventional shoe manufacturing the step of lacing an upper is still manual and thus time consuming and expensive. Another advantage of incorporating stitching yarns 61a,b that are lacing yarns is that much more elaborate and effective lacing systems can be developed.
[0139] The lacing yarns 61a,b are configured to be moveable within the woven portion by having a relatively small number of points at which the lacing yarns 61a,b are interwoven with the warp and weft yarns forming the base fabric 62. The exemplary lacing yarns 61a,b are chosen from a stronger material such as high-tenacity polyester or nylon to prevent tearing. The lacing yarns 61a,b are provided to extend beyond the edge of the woven portion 34 by interweaving the lacing yarns 61a,b in the sheet 20f from which the woven portion 34 is later cut but extending the lacing yarns 61a,b beyond the edges of the woven portion 34 in the sheet 20f. In this example, the lacing yarns 61a,b are straight between two subsequent woven portions. At the exemplary loose point 64 the lacing yarns are not attached to the base fabric 62. At the exemplary fixing point 63 the lacing yarns 61a,b are attached to the base fabric 62. Thus the lacing yarns 61a,b may be removed from the base fabric 62 easily by disconnecting them only at a single point, for example by cutting.
[0140] In this example, there are two lacing yarns 61a and 61b. The advantage of having two lacing yarns is that it is easier to make a lacing system as the two lacing yarns may be connected. However, there may be only one lacing yarn, or there may be more than two lacing yarns.
[0141] In this example, both lacing yarns 61a and 61b comprise a meltable component and the method further comprises melting the meltable component so that the lacing yarn can be fixedly attached to the warp and weft yarns at a desired end point 65 of the lacing yarns 61a and 61b. Additionally, in this example, the two lacing yarns 61a and 61b are fixedly attached to each other by activating the meltable component at a chosen connection point 65. However, only one lacing yarn may comprise a meltable component or no lacing yarn may comprise a meltable component and the lacing yarn or lacing yarns may be attached by any other suitable means to each other or to the base fabric.
[0142]
[0143] In this example, lacing yarn 61a comprise a meltable component while lacing yarn 61b does not and the method further comprises melting the meltable component in lacing yarn 61a so that the lacing yarn 61a can be fixedly attached to the warp and weft yarns at a desired end point 65 of the lacing yarn 61a. The melting of the meltable component of lacing yarn 61a at end point 65 also effects that the two lacing yarns 61a and 61b are fixedly attached to each other by activating the meltable component at a chosen connection point 65.
[0144]
[0145] The woven sheets 20f and 20g shown in
[0146] The woven portion 34 may be a portion of an upper, such as for example a tongue or vamp, or it may form substantially all of the upper.
REFERENCE NUMERALS
[0147] 10: weaving apparatus [0148] 11a: raised warp yarns [0149] 11b: lowered warp yarns [0150] 12: weft insertion point [0151] 13: alignment mechanism [0152] 14: needle eyelet [0153] 15: stitching yarn [0154] 16: vertical direction [0155] 17: weft direction [0156] 18: reed [0157] 19: open reed gap [0158] 20: woven sheet [0159] 21: weaving machine [0160] 22: spool [0161] 23: displacement device [0162] 32: cut-away region [0163] 33: lace eyelets [0164] 34: woven portion [0165] 35: warp direction [0166] 36: reinforcement region [0167] 41: dissolvable yarn [0168] 61: lacing yarn [0169] 62: base fabric [0170] 63: fixing point [0171] 64: loose point [0172] 65: connection point [0173] 66: ripstop region