COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE AND A HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENT

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing at least one associative polyurethane complying with formula (I) and pigment and/or nacre particles coated with at least one lipophilic compound, the average size of said particles being greater than 100 nm.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: a) at least one associative polyurethane having the following formula (I): ##STR00009## in which: R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent, independently of each other, a linear hydrocarbon radical comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, A.sup.1, A.sup.2 and A.sup.3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched alkylene radical, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 35 and 500, p represents an integer between 5 and 500, q represents an integer between 1 and 8, R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched bivalent hydrocarbon radical, comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, b) and pigment particles coated with at least one lipophilic compound, the average size of said particles being greater than 100 nm, wherein the coated pigment particles are iron oxide and/or titanium oxide particles coated with a lipophilic compound chosen from the group of disodium stearoyl glutamate, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof, and wherein the pigment particles are in the oil phase of said emulsion, said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one non ionic surfactant, said non ionic surfactant being a gemini surfactant comprising sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: ##STR00010## PEG representing the CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O group and cocoyl representing the coconut fatty acid residue.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.01% to 10% by weight of associative polyurethane active substance having formula (I) in relation to the total weight of said composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), A.sup.1, A.sup.2 and A.sup.3 represent an ethylene radical.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent, independently of each other, a linear alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein, in formula (I), R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent a linear alkyl group comprising 18 carbon atoms.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 50 and 200.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.1% to 30% by weight of pigment particles coated with at least one lipophilic compound in relation to the total weight of said composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from the group of cross-linked and/or neutralized polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from the group of cross-linked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate polymers, cross-linked sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-mthylpropane sulfonate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one filler.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in the form of a foundation.

13. A non-therapeutic makeup and/or skincare method comprising a step for applying at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 onto the skin.

14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.1% to 5% by weight of the associative polyurethane active substance having formula (I) in relation to the total weight of said composition, 1% to 30% by weight of the pigment particles coated with at least one lipophilic compound in relation to the total weight of said composition and wherein the lipophilic compound is chosen from the group of silicone surface agents, fluorinated surface agents, fluorosilicone surface agents, metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids and salts thereof, lecithin and derivatives thereof, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, plant or animal natural waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids and mixtures thereof.

15. A cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: a) at least one associative polyurethane having the following formula (I): ##STR00011## in which: R.sup.1 and R.sup.4 represent, independently of each other, a linear hydrocarbon radical comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, A.sup.1, A.sup.2 and A.sup.3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched alkylene radical, having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; m and n represent, independently of each other, an integer between 35 and 500, p represents an integer between 5 and 500, q represents an integer between 1 and 8, R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 represent, independently of each other, a linear or branched bivalent hydrocarbon radical, comprising 1 to 30 carbon atoms, b) and pigment particles coated with at least one lipophilic compound, the average size of said particles being greater than 100 nm, wherein the coated pigment particles are iron oxide and/or titanium oxide particles coated with a lipophilic compound chosen from the group of disodium stearoyl glutamate, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof, and wherein the pigment particles are in the oil phase of said emulsion, said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one non ionic surfactant, and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from the group of cross-linked and/or neutralized polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, said non ionic surfactant being a gemini surfactant comprising sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: ##STR00012## PEG representing the CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O group and cocoyl representing the coconut fatty acid residue.

16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.

17. The cosmetic composition according to claim 15, which further contains 0.1% to 20% by weight of a dye other than the pigment particles.

18. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which further contains 0.1% to 20% by weight of a dye other than the pigment particles.

19. The cosmetic composition according to claim 18, wherein said additional dye is chosen from the group of colorants and reflective particles.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0479] The various compositions were evaluated in respect of the appearance thereof, cosmetics thereof, particularly the application property thereof. A composition is thus acceptable according to the invention if it exhibits a satisfactory macroscopic and microscopic appearance, and enhanced cosmetics compared to the formula without coated pigment.

[0480] Influence of Associative Polyurethane Structure

[0481] The three compositions below are prepared and tested according to the protocols described hereinafter.

TABLE-US-00001 2 3 (non- (non- Phase Chemical name 1 invention) invention) A1 Polyethylene glycol mono-stearate (8 OE) 1.3 1.3 1.3 Stearic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cyclohexadimethicone 18 18 18 A2 Iron oxides and titanium oxides coated with Disodium 10 10 10 Stearoyl Glutamate & Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI) Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 B1 Water 30.95 30.95 30.95 Xanthan gum 0.35% 0.35% 0.35% B2 Glycerin 7 7 7 Preservatives 0.9 0.9 0.9 Sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 B3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer 1.5 (RHEOLATE FX-1100) PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS- 1.5 DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER (Adekanol GT-700) Bis-C12-14 Pareth-3/C16-20 7.5 (i.e. Pareth-11 HDI/PEG-130 Copolymer 1.5% AS) containing 20% active substance (AS) in water (Polyurethane-39, Luvigel star) C FILLER (Cross-linked PDMS gum 2 2 2 beads - KSP 300)

[0482] Composition 1 consists of a composition according to the invention comprising a polyurethane according to formula (I) and a pigment coated with a lipophilic compound.

[0483] Compositions 2 and 3 (not according to the invention) are compositions comprising an associative polyurethane not complying with formula (I) according to the invention. Indeed, these compositions comprise a polyurethane with a branched hydrophobic end and a PEG chain length at the ends of less than 40.

[0484] Composition Preparation Protocol

[0485] Phase A1 was heated to 70 C. A2 was then introduced into phase A1 under Raynerie stirring and maintained at 65 C. B1 was then prepared with a Moritz by sprinkling the hydrophilic gelling agent in water and the whole was left under stirring for 30 minutes and B2 was then added. Mixture B1-B2 has heated to 70 C. and maintained at 65-66 C.

[0486] EMULSION: again at 65 C., A1+A2 was incorporated in B1+B2 with a Moritz and stirred for 10 minutes then allowed to cool gently (using a cold water bath if required), to T=45-50 C. With a Raynerie, B3 was added for 10 min. Cooling was continued to 35 C. and phase C was added.

[0487] Composition Evaluation Protocol [0488] Appearance of formula: The macroscopic appearance of the formula was observed particularly in respect of the homogeneity of the formula and more particularly if it involves salting out or not, the surface condition thereof and the fluidity thereof. The microscopic appearance was also observed using an optical microscope particularly in respect of the regularity of the base of the emulsion, the fineness, the condition of the edges (sharp or with splitting). A score of + to ++++ was given by combining all these criteria. Only the scores +++ and ++++ are considered to be acceptable according to the invention. [0489] Cosmetic application properties: Each composition was applied onto the face at a rate of 0.2 g of composition per face. The cosmetic properties evaluated are particularly the application properties: Satisfactory adherence, slip, application time. A score of + to ++++ was given by combining all these criteria. Only the scores +++ and ++++ are considered to be acceptable according to the invention.

TABLE-US-00002 Example 2 Example 3 Example 1 (Non-invention) (Non-invention) Appearance of formula ++++ + ++ Macroscopic Macroscopic Macroscopic appearance: appearance: Non- appearance: Relatively Moderately thick, homogeneous formula fluid, homogeneous homogeneous, smooth Microscopic formula and glossy formula appearance: Coarse Microscopic Microscopic and irregular appearance: Very appearance: Relatively appearance coarse emulsion with fine, regular emulsion splitting with sharp edges Application of formula +++ +++ ++ Satisfactory Satisfactory Mediocre application, application, slight lack application, slight lack less satisfactory of adhesion of adhesion adhesion

[0490] The appearance of the formulas obtained with the compositions from examples 2 and 3 (non-invention) is not homogeneous.

[0491] The associative polyurethane according to the invention is the only one to result in a composition (example 1 according to the invention) which is macroscopically and microscopically homogeneous.

[0492] Influence of Pigment Coating Type

TABLE-US-00003 8 (non- Phase Chemical name 4 5 6 7 invention) Al Polyethylene glycol mono-stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 (8 OE) Stearic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cyclohexadimethicone 13 13 13 13 13 A2 Iron oxides and titanium oxides coated with 10 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate & Aluminum Hydroxide (=NAI) Iron oxides and titanium oxide coated with 10 Dimethicone (=SA) Iron oxides and titanium oxide coated with 10 Triethoxycaprylylsilane (=AS) Iron oxides and titanium oxide coated with 10 Hydrogenated Lecithin (=HLC) Uncoated iron oxides and titanium oxide 10 (Sunpuro) Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 B1 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 7 Preservatives 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 B2 Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (RHEOLATE FX-1100) C FILLER (Cross-linked PDMS gum beads - 2 2 2 2 2 KSP 300)

[0493] Composition Preparation Protocol

[0494] Phase A1 was heated to 70 C. A2 was introduced into phase A1 under Raynerie stirring and maintained at 65 C. Phase B1 was prepared and was heated to 70 C. and maintained at 65-66 C.

[0495] EMULSION: again at 65 C., A1+A2 was incorporated in B1 with a Moritz and stirred for 10 minutes then allowed to cool gently (using a cold water bath if required), to T=45-50 C. With a Raynerie, B2 was added for 10 min. Cooling was continued to 35 C. and phase C was added.

TABLE-US-00004 Appearance of formula Application of formula Example 4 ++++ ++++ (NAI pigments) Macroscopic appearance: Homogeneous, Very good application, satisfactory smooth and glossy formula adhesion, satisfactory slip, Microscopic appearance: Relatively fine, satisfactory application time regular emulsion with sharp edges Example 5 +++ ++++ (SA pigments) Macroscopic appearance: Homogeneous, Very good application, satisfactory smooth and glossy formula adhesion, satisfactory slip, Microscopic appearance: Moderately fine, satisfactory application time regular emulsion with sharp edges Example 6 ++++ +++ (AS pigments) Macroscopic appearance: Homogeneous, Satisfactory application, acceptable smooth and glossy formula adhesion, satisfactory slip, Microscopic appearance: Fine, regular satisfactory application time emulsion with sharp edges Example 7 ++++ ++++ (HLC pigments) Macroscopic appearance: Homogeneous, Very good application, satisfactory smooth and glossy formula adhesion, satisfactory slip, Microscopic appearance: Relatively fine, satisfactory application time regular emulsion with sharp edges Example 8 ++++ ++ (Uncoated Macroscopic appearance: Homogeneous, Mediocre adhesion, the formula is pigments) smooth and glossy formula more difficult to spread and has a Microscopic appearance: Relatively fine, relatively short application time. regular emulsion with sharp edges

[0496] Adding a hydrophobic coated pigment makes it possible to enhance the application qualities of the composition, compared to example 8 (non-invention) containing hydrophobic uncoated pigments.

[0497] Influence of Hydrophilic Gelling Agent Type

[0498] The following compositions are prepared according to the protocol described hereinafter and tested according to the protocols described below.

[0499] They were prepared to study the influence of the presence of an hydrophilic gelling agent and also the influence of the nature of said agent.

TABLE-US-00005 Phase Chemical name 4 1 9 10 11 Al Polyethylene glycol mono-stearate (8 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 OE) Stearic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cyclohexadimethicone 13 13 13 13 13 A2 Pigments coated with Disodium Stearoyl 10 10 10 10 10 Glutamate & Aluminum Hydroxide (=NAI) Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 B1 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Xanthan gum 0.35% ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM 0.3% ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 - Simulgel 600 containing 40% active substance Scleroglucan gum - Amigum 0.2% AMMONIUM 0.2% POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE - Hostacerin AMPS containing 97% active substance Poly vinyl alcohol - SELVOL 540 B2 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 7 Preservatives 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 B3 Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (RHEOLATE FX-1100) C FILLER (Cross-linked PDMS gum beads - 2 2 2 2 2 KSP 300)

[0500] The hydrophilic gelling agent content is adapted to obtain equivalent gelling.

[0501] Composition Preparation Protocol

[0502] Heat phase A1 to 70 C. Introduce A2 into phase A1 under Raynerie stirring and maintain at 65 C.Prepare B1 with a Moritz by sprinkling the hydrophilic gelling agent in water and leave to stir for 30 minutes and then add B2. Heat the mixture B1-B2 to 70 C. and maintain at 65-66 C.

[0503] EMULSION: again at 65 C., incorporate A1+A2 in B1+B2 with a Moritz and stir for 10 minutes then allow to cool gently (using a cold water bath if required), to T=45-50 C. With a Raynerie, add B3 (increase speed if required) for 10 min. Continue cooling to 35 C. and add phase C.

[0504] Examples 1, 9, 10, and 11 have shown that adding an hydrophilic gelling agent makes it possible to enhance the two months stability of the compositions at 45 C., without however degrading the application qualities thereof.

[0505] Influence of Surfactant Type

[0506] The four compositions below are prepared and tested according to the protocols described hereinafter.

TABLE-US-00006 Phase Chemical name 12 13 14 15 A1 PEG-8 stearate (MYRJ 2 S8-SO-(MV) sold by Croda) BIS-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 2 Dimethicone/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Abil Care 85, sold by Evonik Goldschmidt) Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl 2 Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (Ceralution H sold by Sasol) polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/ 2 stearate (Tego Care PSC 3 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt) Stearic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Stearilic alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caprylyl methicone 18 18 18 18 A2 Iron and titanium oxides coated with 10 10 10 10 disodium stearoyl glutamate & aluminum hydroxyde (NAI) Caprylyl methicone 5 5 5 5 B1 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Xanthan gum 0.35% 0.35% 0.35% 0.35% B2 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 Preservatives 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 B3 Water 20.9 20.9 20.9 20.9 Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (RHEOLATE FX 1100 sold by Elementis) C Filler (reticulated PDMS gum- KSP 300) 2 2 2 2

[0507] The compositions are prepared and evaluated as disclosed in the previous examples.

[0508] Evaluation of the Compositions

[0509] The stability of the compositions of example 12 to 15 is evaluated by macroscopic and microscopic observation after 24 hours, one month and two months at ambient temperature, 45 C.

[0510] The composition must not exhibit modifications in macroscopic appearance; it must remain smooth and homogeneous, without release, without phase separation and without change in colour.

[0511] The composition is observed under a microscope between microscope slide and coverglass at a magnification 10. Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial aspect: in particular, decomposition of the emulsion must not be observed (emulsion base coarser, coalescence reflected by the presence of numerous large drops, modification of the preparation edges, presence of crystals).

[0512] The test is regarded as stable if the emulsion remains fine, without release over the edges and without coalescence.

[0513] The compositions of examples 13 to 15 showed an improved stability in comparison to the composition of example 12.