Process for bleaching hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair bleaching process for improved and milder bleaching, especially for bleaching human hair. The ready-to-use bleaching composition comprises carboxylic acids in addition to bleaching persalts and oxidizing agents added at the time of use.

Claims

1. A process for bleaching hair, the process comprising: separately storing the compositions A, B and C before application onto hair, mixing compositions A, B and C immediately before application onto hair at a weight ratio of A:B:C in the range from 1:2:0.1 to 1:1:1 to obtain a ready-to-use composition, wherein the composition A is an anhydrous composition comprising one or more persalts and one or more alkalizing agents, wherein the composition B is an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, at a concentration in the range of 1% to 30% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition, and has a pH in the range from 1.5 to 5, wherein the composition C comprises i) one or more carboxylic acids having three or more carboxyl groups and/or their salts, and ii) one or more additional organic acid and/or their salts having one or two carboxyl groups, wherein the composition C comprises the acids of i) and ii) and/or their salts of at a total concentration of 10% to 100% by weight calculated to the total of the composition C, wherein the ready-to-use composition has an alkaline pH in the range of 8 to 11 and comprises the acids and/or their salts at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total of the ready-to-use composition; applying the ready-to-use composition on the hair for 1 minute to 45 minutes; and rinsing the ready-to-use composition off the hair.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the carboxylic acid with 3 or more carboxyl groups is selected from citric acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), pyromellitic acid and glutamate diacetate, and the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is selected from the group of acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, and fumaric acid wherein the composition C comprises the first acid (i) and the second acid (ii) at a weight ratio (i)/(ii) in the range from 10:1 to 1:250.

3. The process according to claim 2, wherein the composition C is a powder, a dispersion, an emulsion or a solution.

4. The process according to claim 3, wherein the composition C is an aqueous composition.

5. The process according to claim 4, wherein the composition C has a pH in the range from 1 to 5, and comprises at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonia, alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00005## Wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different H, from C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H.

6. The process according to claim 2, wherein the carboxylic acid with three or more carboxyl groups is EDTA and/or its salts.

7. The process according to claim 2, wherein the organic acid with one or two carboxyl groups is malic acid and/or its salts.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the composition A comprises one or more persalts selected from sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and ammonium persulfate, or their mixture, at a concentration in the range of 10 to 80% by weight calculated to the total of composition A, and the at least one alkalizing agent is selected from sodium metasilicate, ammonium salts, carbonate salts and bicarbonate salts.

9. The process according to claim 5, wherein at least one of the composition A and composition C further comprises one or more hair direct dye, selected from the group consisting of cationic, anionic, neutral nitro dyes and their mixtures thereof.

10. The process according to claim 5, wherein at least one of the composition A, the composition B and the composition C further comprises one or more conditioning ingredients, selected from fatty alcohols, surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric ones, ubiquinones, organic solvents, silicones, aminated silicones, cyclic silicones, arylated silicones, antioxidants, preservatives, amino acids, and polyols.

11. The process according to claim 5, wherein the composition C further comprises one or more thickening polymers with a viscosity of at least 500 mPa.Math.s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20 C. with a Brookfield viscometer, with a spindle.

12. The process according to claim 11, wherein the thickening polymer is selected from dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, xanthan gum, and polymeric anionic thickeners.

13. The process according to claim 10, wherein ubiquinones are selected from ##STR00006## wherein n has a number from 1 to 10.

14. The process according to claim 10, wherein the aminated silicones comprise primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary ammonium groups.

15. A kit for hair comprising the compositions A, B and C according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) The Composition A

(2) TABLE-US-00001 % by weight Ammonium persulfate 21.00 Potassium persulfate 36.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.00 Diatomaceous Earth 21.00 Aerosil 380 1.00 Liquid paraffin 10.00

(3) The above composition was prepared by combining all powder components and mixing in a suitable mixer until homogeneity was reached.

(4) The Composition B

(5) TABLE-US-00002 % by weight Hydrogen peroxide 9.00 Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.70 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.0 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.20 Salicylic acid 0.10 Water to 100.00
The Composition C

(6) TABLE-US-00003 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(7) The pH value of the above composition C was 3.50.1.

(8) Then above three compositions A, B and C were mixed at a weight ratio of A, B and C 1:2:0.2. The resulting composition had a pH of approximately 9.5. For shine measurements, 25 cm long Caucasian hair tresses were purchased from International Hair Importers & Products Inc., Glendale, N.Y., USA. Cysteic acid measurements were performed on 25 cm long Caucasian hair delivered from Fischbach+Miller, Laupheim, Germany. The composition was applied onto human hair and left on the hair for 30 min at ambient temperature, rinsed off from hair and the hair was shampooed with a Goldwell Dualsenses Color shampoo, rinsed with water again, and dried (inventive process).

(9) For comparative purposes, the same steps were carried out without using the composition C. Instead of composition C the same amount of water was added. The resulting composition had a pH of approximately 9.9. The composition was applied onto human hair and left on the hair for 30 min at ambient temperature, rinsed off from hair and the hair was shampooed with a Goldwell Dualsenses Color shampoo, rinsed with water again, and dried (comparative process).

(10) Hair shine was measured by image analysis of polarized light reflection with the SAMBA Hair system from Bossa Nova Technologies, Culver City, Calif., USA. Each hair tress was measured and analyzed for 4 times and shine values were calculated by three different mathematical methods: 1) Bossa Nova Tech (BNT), 2) Reich-Robbins analysis (RR), and 3) Textile Research Institute analysis (TRI). The method is known from a scientific publication by N. Lefaudeux et al., in Journal of Cosmetic Science, 60(2), 153-169, 2009. Higher values correspond to more shine in all types of calculations. Based on the four independent measurements, arithmetic means, standard deviations, and confidence intervals were calculated. Student's t test (2 samples, unpaired, two-tailed) was used to calculate the significance values between the two hair tresses with the same calculation method (BRT, RR, TRI). Hair tresses were dark brown and 25 cm long.

(11) TABLE-US-00004 Tress 1 (inventive Tress 2 (comparative Number of process) process) measurement BNT RR TRI BNT RR TRI 1 4.34 9.34 6.32 3.86 7.83 5.61 2 4.25 9.04 6.15 3.92 7.93 5.66 3 4.44 9.37 6.41 3.58 7.21 5.39 4 4.53 9.4 6.45 3.61 7.2 5.37 Arithmetic 4.39 9.29 6.33 3.74 7.54 5.51 mean SD 0.12 0.17 0.13 0.17 0.39 0.15 CI 0.24 0.33 0.26 0.35 0.78 0.30 p value <0.05 <0.05 <0.05

(12) The shine measurements revealed that in all cases the tress treated with the inventive process exhibited significantly more shine compared to the state-of-the-art process, independently of the calculation method.

(13) The amount of damage conferred to the hair was measured by cysteic acid concentration upon treatment. Cysteine residues in hair are converted to cysteic acid during chemical processing of hair such as bleaching. It is well known to the skilled in the art that the amount of cysteic acid produced in a chemical hair treatment directly corresponds to hair damage. Consequently the lower cysteic acid values upon treatment, the less damage to hair was conferred.

(14) Cysteic acid was analyzed as described by Robbins and Kelly (J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 20, p. 555-564, published on Aug. 19, 1969). In brief, hair tresses treated with the inventive process and the comparative process (without addition of composition C) were hydrolyzed by mineral acidic treatment under reflux boiling conditions. This treatment delivered free amino acids which were then analyzed by an amino acid analyzer. Hair tresses were dark brown and 25 cm long.

(15) TABLE-US-00005 Cysteic acid Treatment group [mol/100 mol] Virgin hair 0.8 Inventive process 4.5 Comparative process 5.6

(16) The results clearly show the superiority of the inventive process in terms of hair damage. The damage to hair was much lower compared to the comparative process.

(17) In order to make sure that the above proven effects were indeed from the addition of the third composition but not from the pH change, another comparative test was carried out where the composition was added water and the pH was adjusted with a phosphoric acid solution. The values obtained from shine measurements and cysteic acid content of the hair were very similar to the values obtained with the above comparative process. Therefore, it is beyond any doubt that the effect shown above is from the addition of the third composition but not from the decrease in pH value.

(18) Similar results were obtained with the following compositions (composition C) when used with the compositions A and B of the Example 1.

EXAMPLE 2

(19) TABLE-US-00006 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 EDTA tetrasodium salt 3.0 Malic acid 13.0 Lactic acid 4.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Polyquaternium-10 0.1 Water to 100

(20) The pH value of the above composition C was 3.40.1.

EXAMPLE 3

(21) The Composition C

(22) TABLE-US-00007 Component % by weight Monoethanolamine 2.7 (MEA) EDTA tetrasodium salt 5.0 Malic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Panthenol 0.1 Water to 100

(23) The pH value of the above composition C was 3.30.1.

EXAMPLE 4

(24) The Composition C

(25) TABLE-US-00008 Component % by weight AMP 6.0 Citric acid 5.0 Maleic acid 15.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Behenamidopropyl 0.2 trimonium chloride Water to 100

(26) The pH value of the above composition C was 1.40.1.

EXAMPLE 5

(27) The Composition C

(28) TABLE-US-00009 Component % by weight MEA 2.0 Lactic acid 15.0 Citric acid 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan 0.6 gum Polyquaternium-67 0.1 Water to 100

(29) The pH value of the above composition C was 2.70.1.

EXAMPLE 6

(30) The composition A

(31) TABLE-US-00010 % by weight Ammonium persulfate 21.00 Potassium persulfate 36.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.00 Diatomaceous Earth 19.00 Aerosil 380 1.00 Basic red 51 1.00 HC red 18 1.00 Liquid paraffin 10.00

(32) The hair was treated with the above composition using the composition B and C of the Example 1 as described under Example 1. It was observed that the hair was bleached and dyed effectively into intensive red color. Exclusion of the composition C resulted in loss of color brilliance and less smooth hair feeling.

EXAMPLE 7

(33) The composition C

(34) TABLE-US-00011 % by weight EDTA tetrasodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Basic red 51 1.00 HC red 18 1.00 HC Blue 18 0.1 HC Yellow 16 0.1 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(35) The pH value of the above composition C was 3.50.1.

(36) The hair was treated with the above composition C using the compositions A and B of the Example 1 as described under the Example 1. It was observed that the hair was bleached and dyed effectively into intensive red color. Exclusion of the composition C resulted in loss of color brilliance and less smooth hair feeling.

EXAMPLE 8

(37) The Composition C (Powder)

(38) TABLE-US-00012 EDTA tetrasodium 7.0 Malic acid 93.0

(39) 1 g of the above composition was added to the mixture of 10 g of Composition A and 20 g of composition B (1 to 2) of the Example 1. After mixing thoroughly, the resulting composition was applied onto hair and rinsed off after leaving on the hair for 30 min. It was observed that the hair was effectively bleached.

EXAMPLE 9

(40) The Composition C

(41) TABLE-US-00013 % by weight EDTA monosodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(42) pH of the above composition C is approximately 3.1.

EXAMPLE 10

(43) The Composition C

(44) TABLE-US-00014 % by weight EDTA disodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(45) pH of the above composition C is approximately 3.2.

EXAMPLE 11

(46) The Composition C

(47) TABLE-US-00015 % by weight EDTA trisodium salt 1.0 Malic acid 13.0 Aminomethylpropanol 6.0 Hydroxypropyl xanthan gum 0.6 Cetrimonium chloride 0.1 Preservative q.s. Water to 100

(48) pH of the above composition C is approximately 3.4.