SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE POLYAMIDE, A SILICONE RESIN AND A DISPERSED AQUEOUS PHASE

Abstract

This invention relates according to a solid cosmetic composition for makeup or treatment comprising: a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one polar wax of which the melting point is less than or equal to 90 C.; and an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition for makeup or treatment comprising: a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one silicone resin, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one polar wax with a melting point less than or equal to 90 C.; and an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone polyamide is between 2 and 20% by weight by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 7% by weight of polar wax in relation to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 5% by weight of silicone resin with respect to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 7% by water weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1, having a hardness that varies from 20 to 90 Nm.sup.1.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone polyamide comprises at least one patterns that satisfies the general formula I: ##STR00023## 1) in which: G is C(O) when G is C(O)NHYNH, and G is NH when G is NHC(O)YC(O) 2) R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6 and R.sup.7, identical or different, are a group chosen from: the C.sub.1 to C.sub.40, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, that can contain in their chain one or several atoms of oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen, and which can be partially or entirely substituted with fluorine atoms, the C.sub.6 to C.sub.10 aryl groups, possibly substituted with one or several C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 alkyl groups, the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or several atoms of oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen, 3) the X, identical or different, are a C.sub.1 to C.sub.30, linear or branched alkylene di-yl group that can contain in its chain one or several atoms of oxygen and/or nitrogen, 4) Y is a C.sub.1 to C.sub.50 linear or branched, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, alkylene divalent group, that can contain one or several atoms of oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen, and/or carry as a substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C.sub.3 to C.sub.8 cycloalkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.40 alkyl, C.sub.5 to C.sub.10 aryl, phenyl possibly substituted with 1 to 3 C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 alkyl groups, C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 hydroxyalkyl and C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 amino alkyl, or 5) Y is a group having the formula: ##STR00024## wherein T is a C.sub.3 to C.sub.24 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, possibly substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and that can contain one or several atoms chosen from O, N and S, where T is a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and R.sup.8 is a C.sub.1 to C.sub.50, linear or branched, alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, that can contain one or several ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups that be bound or not to another polymer chain, 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and m is an integer ranging from 50 to 1000.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein X and/or Y are an alkylene group containing in its alkylene portion at least one of the following elements: i. 1 to 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups, ii. a C.sub.5 or C.sub.6 cycloalkyl group, and iii. a phenylene group possibly substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 alkyl, and/or substituted with at least one element chosen from the group comprising: a hydroxy group, a C.sub.3 to C.sub.8 cycloalkyl group, one to three C.sub.1 to C.sub.40 alkyl groups, a phenyl group possibly substituted with one to three C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 alkyl groups, a C.sub.1 to C.sub.3 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 aminoalkyl group.

9. The composition according to claim 7, wherein R.sup.4, R.sup.5, R.sup.6 and R.sup.7 are preferably, independently, a C.sub.1 to C.sub.40 linear or branched alkyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group possibly substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

10. The composition according to claim 7, comprising at least one polymer having the general formula (I) and having an index m with a value greater than 50.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said silicone resin is a resin chosen from: Silicone resins of the MQ type, Silicone resins of the T type, and Resins of the MQT type.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said silicone resin is a resin of the MQ type.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said silicone resin is present in a ratio such that the silicon resin/silicone polyamide mass proportion is between 1 and 7/3.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from: C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 mono or polycarboxylic acid and a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 alcohol; esters of a C.sub.2-C.sub.8 polyol and of one or several C.sub.2-C.sub.8 carboxylic acids; ester oils; vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, di-alkyl carbonates, with the 2 alkyl chains able to be identical or different, mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is present in a quantity between 5 and 30% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polar wax is chosen from silicone waxes, alcohol waxes, ester waxes and mixtures thereof.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax is chosen from waxes of which the melting point is less than or equal to 80 C.

18. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one additional oil chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicon oils, volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon non-polar oils, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content in additional oil(s) represents from 1 to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 18, which comprises at least one additional non-volatile non-polar silicon or hydrocarbon oil.

21. The composition according to claim 20, which comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil, or mixtures thereof.

22. The composition according to claim 18, which comprises at least one additional volatile silicon or hydrocarbon oil, or mixtures thereof.

23. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one aqueous phase thickening polymer.

24. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrocarbon or silicone non-ionic surfactant, with an HLB less than or equal to 8.

25. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content in surfactant(s) represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

26. A method for makeup or treatment of keratin materials which comprises applying on the keratin materials the composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES 1 AND 2 OF LIPSTICKS ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

[0609] The solid inverted emulsion compositions of the examples 1 and 2 are obtained according to the following protocol:

[0610] In a first step, the fillers and the pigments are ground in a portion of the oily phase.

[0611] The remainder of the liposoluble ingredients and possibly the surfactants (cetyl PEG/PGG-10/1 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone and polyglycerol-4 isostearate) are then mixed at a temperature of about 95-100 C. The ground product or the pre-dispersed active ingredients are then added into the oily phase.

[0612] The aqueous phase is prepared at 85 C. and dispersed using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0613] Finally, the composition is cast into a mold in order to give it the shape of a stick and the whole is cooled at 0 C. The sticks are unmolded at 0 C. and left at ambient temperature.

TABLE-US-00001 Compound (INCI name) Example 1 Example 2 Dyes (pigments, lacquers and or titanium 8 8 oxide) Phenyltrimethicone (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) 13.5 10.3 Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 8.4 Candelilla wax (7820 Light Special Candelilla 2.5 2.6 REAL from Multiceras) C20-40 alkyl stearate (Kester Wax K 82 H 7.5 7.9 from Koster Keunen) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR1000 from 8.5 8.5 Momentive Performance Materials) Octyldodecanol 13.4 CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE (Abil 3 EM-90 from Evonik Goldschmidt) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone in dimethicone 1 (X-22-6711D, from Shin Etsu; in dimethicone; 25% active material) Polyglycerol-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34 from 1 Goldschmidt) NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER 5.7 5.7 (DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) Glycerin 5 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM 0.2 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) EDTA 0.2 0.2 Octane-1,2-diol 0.5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100

[0614] For example 1 a stick of a hardness of 37 Nm.sup.1 is obtained.

[0615] For example 2 a stick of a hardness of 42 Nm.sup.1 is obtained.

[0616] The two compositions are applied easily, with a good slip and make it possible to obtain a covering deposit, intense, fine and homogeneous on the first pass, fresh, not tacky, not migrant (especially after 1 h30), of good stability, in particular for the color, and comfortable. The color of the deposit is uniform with good covering power.

EXAMPLE 3 OF A LIPSTICK ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

[0617] The solid inverted emulsion composition of example 3 (according to the invention) is obtained according to the following protocol:

[0618] In a first step, the dyes are ground in a part of the hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0619] The remainder of the oils is heated at 95 C. and the wax, the silicon resin and the nylon-611/dimethicone are then successively added under mixing (Rayneri) until the resulting mixture is homogeneous.

[0620] The mixture of dyes and part of the hydrocarbon-based oils is then added into the oily phase.

[0621] The aqueous phase is separately prepared at 85 C. then dispersed in the oily phase (Rayneri).

[0622] Finally, the composition is cast into a mold in order to give it the shape of a stick and the whole is cooled at 0 C. The sticks are unmolded at 0 C. left at ambient temperature.

TABLE-US-00002 Compound (INCI name) Example 3 Yellow 6 Lake/Alumina 3.9 Red 7 0.3 Titanium dioxide 0.5 Red 28 Lake 3.3 Phenyltrimethicone (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) 13.5 Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 C20-40 alkyl stearate (Kester Wax K 82 H 8 from Koster Keunen) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR1000 from 8.5 Momentive Performance Materials) Octyldodecanol 13.4 NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER 5.7 (DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) Glycerin 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) EDTA 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Water Qs 100

[0623] For example 3 a stick of a hardness of around 26 Nm.sup.1 is obtained.

[0624] The stick is homogenous and smooth.

COMPARATIVE LIPSTICK EXAMPLES A AND B

[0625] The comparative compositions (i.e. comparative lipsticks) A and B are obtained according to the protocol described in example 3.

[0626] Comparative composition A corresponds to the composition of example 3 except that the wax is substituted by an alcohol wax, i.e. C30-50 alcohols (Performacol 550 Alcohol) which have a melting point of around 95 C. The melting point is greater than 90 C.

[0627] Comparative composition B corresponds to the composition of example 3 except that the wax is substituted by an apolar wax, i.e. polyethylene wax (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE of New Phase Technologies) which has a melting point of around 77 C. The wax is thus not polar.

TABLE-US-00003 Comparative Comparative Compound (INCI name) lipstick A lipstick B Yellow 6 Lake/Alumina 3.9 3.9 Red 7 0.3 0.3 Titanium dioxide 0.5 0.5 Red 28 Lake 3.3 3.3 Phenyltrimethicone 13.5 13.5 (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 10.9 C30-50 Alcohols 8 (Performacol 550 Alcohol of Baker Hughes) Polyethylene wax 8 (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE of New Phase Technologies) Trimethylsiloxysilicate 8.5 8.5 (SR1000 from Momentive Performance Materials) Octyldodecanol 13.4 13.4 NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE 5.7 5.7 COPOLYMER (DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) Glycerin 5 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM 0.2 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) EDTA 0.2 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100

[0628] Comparative lipstick A with a hardness of 48+/2.7 Nm.sup.1 is obtained. However the stick is not smooth, and comprises deep stretches and irregularities. Indeed the emulsion is very thick, and is not homogenously put in molds.

[0629] Comparative lipstick B with a hardness of 69+/1.2 Nm.sup.1 is obtained. However, the stick comprises irregularities, cavities and air bubbles at the surface of the stick. Again, the emulsion is thick, and is not homogenously put in molds.