COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING WATER-SOLUBLE OR WATER-DISPERSIBLE UV-SCREENING AGENTS, HYDROPHILIC THICKENERS AND HYDROPHILIC SURFACTANTS
20230028965 · 2023-01-26
Inventors
- Angélina ROUDOT (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Laure ADER (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Flavie GILLANT (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
Cpc classification
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/463
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8147
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8158
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/4993
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8152
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/4946
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition, notably an aqueous cosmetic composition, comprising at least one screening agent chosen from water-soluble or water-dispersible screening agents that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 320 to 400 nm (UVA), water-soluble or water-dispersible screening agents that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 280 to 320 nm (UVB), and mixtures thereof; at least one hydrophilic thickener; and at least one surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application, to said keratin materials, of a composition according to the invention.
Claims
1. An aqueous cosmetic composition comprising at least one screening agent chosen from water-soluble or water-dispersible screening agents that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 320 to 400 nm (UVA), water-soluble or water-dispersible screening agents that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 280 to 320 nm (UVB), and mixtures thereof, at least one hydrophilic thickener; and at least one surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7.
2. The composition according to claim 1 which is transparent or translucent.
3. The composition according to claim 1 having an amount of fatty phase of less than 10% by weight of the composition.
4. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one screening agent chosen from water-soluble screening agents that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 320 to 400 nm (UVA), water-soluble screening agents that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 280 to 320 nm (UVB), and mixtures thereof.
5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UV rays from 320 to 400 nm (UVA) and at least one water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UV rays from 280 to 320 nm (UVB).
6. The composition according to claim 1, in which the screening agent(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic screening agents.
7. The composition according to claim 1, in which the water-soluble screening agent(s) that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 320 to 400 nm (UVA) are chosen from benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, benzazolyl derivatives.
8. Composition according to claim 1, in which the water-soluble screening agent(s) that are capable of absorbing UV rays from 280 to 320 nm (UVB) are chosen from water-soluble para-aminobenzoic compounds, cinnamic derivatives, salicylic compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds and phenylbenzimidazole compounds.
9. The composition according to claim 1, in which the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UV rays from 280 to 320 nm (UVB) is 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid).
10. The composition according to claim 1, comprising a total amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible screening agents of between 0.2% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophilic thickener(s) are chosen from anionic synthetic thickening polymers, nonionic thickening polysaccharides, sulfate-based thickening polysaccharides and carboxylic branched thickening polysaccharides.
12. The composition according to claim 11, in which the anionic synthetic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, crosslinked or non-crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, or salts thereof, and copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more crosslinked or non-crosslinked nonionic monomers, alone or as mixtures.
13. The composition according claim 11, in which the anionic synthetic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
14. The composition according to claim 11, in which the anionic synthetic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C1-C30 alkyl acrylate.
15. Composition according to claim 11, in which the anionic synthetic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more nonionic monomers.
16. The composition according to claim 11, in which the copolymer(s) of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salts thereof and of one or more nonionic monomers are chosen from copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone, crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate and hydrophobically modified copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
17. The composition according to claim 11, in which the anionic synthetic thickening polymer(s) are present as active material in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. The composition according to claim 11, in which the nonionic thickening polysaccharide(s) are chosen from nonionic cellulose-based thickening polysaccharides.
19. The composition according to claim 11, in which the nonionic thickening polysaccharide(s) are chosen from nonionic cellulose-based thickening polysaccharides and in which the sulfate-based thickening polysaccharide(s) are chosen from sulfate-based polysaccharides.
20. The composition according to claim 11, in which the nonionic thickening polysaccharide(s) are chosen from nonionic cellulose-based thickening polysaccharides and in which the carboxylic branched thickening polysaccharide(s) are chosen from anionic branched polysaccharides based on glucose, mannose, acetylated mannose, pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid.
21. The composition according to claim 11, in which the nonionic thickening polysaccharide(s) are chosen from nonionic cellulose-based thickening polysaccharides and in which the thickening polysaccharide(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. The composition according to claim 1, in which the surfactant(s) with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7 have an HLB of greater than 7 and less than 40.
23. The composition according to claim 1, in which the surfactant(s) with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7 are chosen from: esters of a fatty acid, water-soluble silicones including at least one terminal or pendent monovalent polyoxyalkylene group; and mixtures thereof.
24. The composition according to claim 1, in which the surfactant(s) with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7 are present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
25. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for treating a keratin material comprising the application to the keratin material of a composition according to claim 1.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0277] Compositions A to F of Examples 1 and 2 below were prepared as follows.
[0278] The compositions according to the invention are compositions B and E.
[0279] The comparative compositions are indicated by an asterisk; they are the compositions A, C, D and F. Specifically, comparative compositions A and D differ from the compositions according to the invention in that they do not contain any surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7. Compositions C and F differ from the compositions of the invention in that they do not contain any thickener.
[0280] In the tables below, the term “a.m.” means “active material”.
[0281] Procedure:
1) Mix the components of the gelled phase while taking care to neutralize the carbomer.
2) In a separate beaker, prepare the mixture of the screening phase.
3) Add the screening phase to the gelled phase.
4) Add the alcohol, and then the surfactant.
[0282] in vivo: Evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the formulations was performed in vivo on five individuals according to the protocol ISO/EN 24444 “Cosmetics—Sun protection test methods—in-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)”.
Example 1: Preparation and Evaluation of Compositions According to the Invention and of Comparative Compositions
[0283] The following compositions were prepared.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 A* B C* Phases Compositions (comparative) (invention) (comparative) Gelled Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 phase Preserving agents qs qs qs Carbomer 0.5 0.5 — (Carbopol 980) Tromethamine 0.9 0.9 — Xanthan gum 0.3 0.3 — (Keltrol CG-T CP Kelco) Carrageenan 0.5 0.5 — (Satiagum VPC 410 Cargill) Glycerol 2 2 2 Propylene glycol 19 19 19 Butylene glycol 6.4 6.4 6.4 Screening Water 15 15 15 aqueous Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, 8 8 8 phase (Eusolex 232 from Merck) Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic 10 10 10 acid, (3.3% a.m.) (3.3% a.m.) (3.3% a.m.) (Mexoryl SX from Chimex; 33% a.m.) Triethanolamine 2.5 2.5 2.5 Arginine 5 5 5 Alcohol 4 4 4 Oxyethylenated (20 EO) — 1 1 sorbitan monolaurate (Tween 20 ® from Croda) in vivo SPF 18.6 ± 2.4 28.3 ± 2.8 13.7 ± 1.8
[0284] These results show the importance of the presence of a surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7 and of a hydrophilic thickener for obtaining improved SPF values.
[0285] Once prepared, the various compositions are tested as regards their appearance (homogeneity/compatibility), and their viscosity is measured.
[0286] The viscosity is measured as indicated in the description.
[0287] The results are given in Table 2.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 A* B C* Formulation (comparative) (invention) (comparative) Homogeneity Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Viscosity 2.8 2.7 <0.2 (in poises)
Example 2: Preparation and Evaluation of Compositions According to the Invention and of Comparative Compositions
[0288] The following compositions were prepared.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 D* E F* Phases Compositions (comparative) (invention) (comparative) Gelled Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 phase Preserving agents qs qs qs Carbomer 0.5 0.5 — (Carbopol 980) Tromethamine 0.9 0.9 — Xanthan gum 0.3 0.3 — (Keltrol CG-T CP Kelco) Carrageenan 0.5 0.5 — (Satiagum VPC 410 Cargill) Glycerol 1 1 1 Propylene glycol 7.9 7.9 7.9 Butylene glycol 9.7 9.7 9.7 Screening Water 15 15 15 aqueous Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, 8 8 8 phase (Eusolex 232 from Merck) Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic 10 10 10 acid, (3.3% a.m.) (3.3% a.m.) (3.3% a.m.) (Mexoryl SX from Chimex; 33% a.m.) Triethanolamine 2.5 2.5 2.5 Arginine 5 5 5 Alcohol 4 4 4 Oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan — 1 1 monolaurate (Tween 20 ® from Croda) in vivo SPF 32.8 ± 4.4 42.9 ± 4.9 23.7 ± 1.4
[0289] These results show the importance of the presence of a surfactant with an HLB of greater than or equal to 7 and of a hydrophilic thickener for obtaining improved SPF values.
[0290] Once prepared, the various compositions are tested as regards their appearance (homogeneity/compatibility), and their viscosity and turbidity are measured.
[0291] The viscosity and the turbidity are measured as indicated in the description.
[0292] The results are given in Table 4.
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 D* E F* Formulation (comparative) (invention) (comparative) Homogeneity Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Viscosity 5.5 5.7 <0.2 (in poises) Turbidity 85.30 93.80 1.02 (in NTU)